Sowing propagation and large seedling cultivation techniques of Syringa angustifolia

Syringa vulgaris can emit a strong fragrance, and the cultivation conditions are light-tolerant, cold-tolerant, drought-tolerant and barren-tolerant. Generally used for urban and rural greening, the ornamental effect of cultivation is very good, so it is very popular. Let's take a look at the whole cultivation techniques of Syringa.

First, sowing and multiplying seedlings

1.1 cut and dry storage of capsule

When the capsule matures in September, the ear is cut from the base and spread on a clean, dry cement surface, turning frequently, the pericarp dry and the seeds falling off naturally. Do not trample violently or hit with a stick to prevent the seeds from breaking. After drying in strong light for 7 or 10 days, remove the pericarp and sundries with a dustpan to clean the seeds and put them into a gauze bag for dry preservation.

1.2 preparation of seeding bed

In the middle and last ten days of October or the first and middle April of the following year, choose a flat or relatively flat plot, the best soil texture is sandy soil to medium soil, according to the north-south or other directions, make a bed with a width of 0.8mm, a length of 5m, and a high 8~10cm. Sprinkle fine chopped farm poultry and livestock manure evenly to the bed and apply the amount of 4~5kg/ m2. Turn the bed surface 15~20cm deep, break the soil, cuddle the bed surface, the four edges of the bed surface, trim it into a high ridge with high 4~5cm and wide 5~6cm, so that the water will not slip when watering. If you turn the soil with a tractor, you can turn the soil and then make a bed after applying farm manure.

1.3 seed germination treatment

If you are going to sow seeds in the next year, soak the seeds in 40-50 ℃ water 20-30 days before sowing in the middle of March, and then soak them in water for 2-3 days after cooling, so that the seeds can fully absorb and expand. Mix the seeds with 3-4 times the volume of river sand, put them in a woven bag and put them in a place of 20-25 ℃, waiting for germination. During this period, you should turn the sand every 2-3 days, and replenish it if there is no water. When it is found that 1 / 4 of the seeds can be sprouted, they can be prepared to sow at one time.

1.4 sowing

The sowing period is around the first and middle October of the seed collection year or the middle of April of the following year. Autumn sowing does not have to wait for the seeds to germinate, but should soak in water for 2-3 days before sowing. Along the bed or across the bed, open the 2~3cm deep trench on the bed surface, the distance of the groove is 15~20cm. When the mixed seed sand is sprinkled into the ditch, the thickness of the cover soil is about 1cm, and the sowing amount is 30g/ m2 and the sowing amount is 15~20kg/ 667m2.

1.5 Post-broadcast management

1.5.1 cover and spray. Cover the bed with 1~1.5cm thick rice husks or straw curtains after sowing. Spray water on the cover and soak the bed soil particles 4~5cm or more. Covering rice husk is beneficial to moisturizing and seed germination, and there is no problem of removing mulch. Autumn sowing or spring sowing should cover and spray water after sowing. Winter sowing, such as less snow in winter and no rain in early spring, should be sprayed as soon as possible, otherwise the seedlings will not emerge evenly. Spring sowing, 7-10 days after sowing, should be sprayed for the second time, and should be sprayed in time in case of excessive drought in the growing season.

1.5.2 seedlings and supplementary seedlings. When the seedlings grew to 4-6 leaves, the dense seedlings were pulled out in overcast and rainy days and planted in the place where the seedlings were missing, and the seedling distance between the seedlings was 4~5cm.

1.5.3 weeding and topdressing. In May and September, according to the grass condition, weed should be removed every 20 to 30 days to ensure that the bed surface is free from grass damage. In late June, if the leaves are not thick green, diammonium phosphate or urea should be sprinkled on the bed and 20kg / 667m2 should be applied. If there is no rainfall within 2 days after topdressing, water should be sprayed to prevent burning seedlings, which is also beneficial to seedling absorption as soon as possible.

1.5.4 insect disease control. In May and August, if aphids, caterpillars and other insect pests are found, 10% bromocyanide can be sprayed with water 2000 times 2500 times to kill. Before the emergence of seedlings after sowing, if there are mole crickets on the bed, you can spread carbofuran to the bed. In addition, in order to prevent and reduce the disease, it is best to sprinkle 50% carbendazim powder on the bed and mix it with the soil before sowing. The height and ground diameter of sowing seedlings should be more than 40cm and 3mm in the same year, and the seedlings can be dug up and transplanted in the first ten days of April of the following year. In order to develop the root system of the seedlings, the seedlings can be planted on the original bed for one year in the second year and transplanted in the early spring of the third year.

II. Seedling transplanting and large seedling cultivation

2.1 selection and preparation of transplanting sites

In April or October, the soil layer is thicker than 60cm, and the texture is flat or gentle slope from medium soil to medium clay. The soil is relatively sticky and heavy, so it is convenient to dig seedlings with soil dunes after a few years, but it is difficult to dig with soil from sand to sandy soil. To get rid of sundries, it should be monopolized according to 20cm monopoly height and 60cm monopoly distance.

2.2 Seedling quality and seedling transplantation

When the seedlings are 2 or 1 years old, the diameter of the root neck should be larger than 1cm, the height of the seedlings should not be less than 80cm, the stems should be fully Lignified, the number of roots should be less than 6, and the root length should be larger than 20cm. The suitable period for seedling transplantation is from early October to early November or April. Before planting, the seedling roots should be properly truncated, the length 10~15cm should be retained, and the seedling roots should be soaked in cold water for 24 hours for 48 hours. In the ridge or trench, according to the row spacing of 60cm × 60cm, dig deep the hole of 15cm and diameter 25~30cm, fill the bottom of the pit with farm manure, and apply 1~2kg to the hole. Return a small amount of soil, put the seedling root into the pit, fill solid, the seedling should be upright but not askew, the planting depth makes the root neck flush with the pit surface, and the slope can be properly deep 2~3cm. Flooding wet soil into Longgou is not less than 30cm. Irrigate again after 7 to 10 days. After underwater infiltration, the pit surface or root neck is covered with 5cm-thick pine needles and other leaves.

2.3 Tree shape and shaping

In order to cultivate large seedlings of Syringa angustifolia, the following three kinds of trees can be considered. First, the single trunk is round crown, the trunk has the advantage of upright trunk and central trunk, more than 2m has branches growing upward in all directions, the height of the tree is more than 2.5m, the height of the crown is about 1.5m, and the crown is naturally round. The other is cluster-shaped, with 4 or 5 large branches distributed upward from the surface, the inclination of the branches is 10 °~ 15 °, the branches grow above 0.5m above the surface, and the height and crown width are about 2.5m and 2m, respectively. Third, the plane fan-shaped, from the surface above 20cm, upright and inclined to divide into 3 big branches, each big branch is a plane fan-shaped, the distance between each branch is about 0.1-0.2m. The width of the fan is up to 0.5cm from left to right, and there are small branches above 1m on the surface. If the cluster shape is cultivated, the stem of the seedling should be cut off from the surface 10cm after planting to promote the development of 4-5 branches. In March of the second year, several branches will be drawn around and fixed to show the required angle. If the culture is fan-shaped, after the seedlings are planted, the stems of the seedlings are cut flat at 25~30cm above the surface, which promotes the germination of 3-4 branches in the same year, and the branches are drawn to both sides in March of the next year and fixed into a flat fan-shaped. If you cultivate a single stem, do not break the stem, and make use of the advantage of the terminal bud to make it grow independently, the branches on the trunk will be thinned from the base in the next 2-3 years, or wiped out in time in the growing season, when the central stem reaches more than 2m, retain the branches and no longer erase. Clump-shaped or fan-shaped tree-shaped, the base 0.5-1m should be smooth rod state, upward should retain branches, but when the branch growth is too strong, should control the length, thickness, do not predominate.

2.4 other Management

In the 3 ~ 4 years after seedling transplantation, the seedlings may tie the head with each other. In the first and middle of April, the seedlings should be kept according to the row spacing of 1.2m × 1.2m, and the rest should be removed and transplanted according to the row spacing of 1.2m. From 6 to 7 years, the plants were retained and retransplanted according to the row spacing of 2.4m. Weeding and pest control should be carried out in time from May to September every year, and watering should be arranged in case of severe drought. In the first and middle April of each year, it is best to apply N.P.K compound fertilizer once, the amount of plant application is the age of the tree multiplied by 100g, 20~30cm from the root neck, and the depth is 5cm ring groove. After 6 ~ 8 years of management, when the height and crown width of seedlings reach the required specifications, they can come out of the nursery.

How to cultivate large seedlings of camellia? Cultivation techniques of large seedlings of Camellia

How to cultivate large seedlings of camellia? Camellia, also known as Camellia, belongs to the Theaceae, originated in eastern China, is a traditional famous flower in China, and is now widely planted in the Yangtze River Basin, Pearl River Basin, Yunnan and other places. Camellias have red, yellow, white, pink, white petals, red dots and other colors, reproduction can be sexual reproduction and asexual reproduction, and then the editor will talk about the cultivation techniques of camellia seedlings.

1 cultivation of annual camellia seedlings

1.1 nursery site selection and site preparation

Nursery site selection: convenient drainage and irrigation, loose texture, moist and fertile, the previous crop is rice sandy soil as nursery land

Nursery land preparation: the nursery land can be crushed by tractor or diesel rotary tiller. Basic fertilizer should be applied before soil preparation. Compound fertilizer 40kg and dry cake 50kg should be applied per mu of land, and the base fertilizer should be turned into the soil. Make a bed 20 days before cutting, bed width 1.2m, bed height 25cm, trail ditch width 30cm. After making a seedbed, spray bed surface and trail ditch with 500g Deliamine + water 70kg 0.5% potassium permanganate solution per mu to reduce weed breeding and soil disinfection. After that, spread a layer of 3cm thick fresh crushed yellow soil on the seedbed, and cover it with plastic film after the seedbed is done.

1.2 cutting time

Cutting time: the best season for camellia cutting propagation is from May to June every year, that is, when the new shoots of camellia mother trees change from green to reddish brown.

1.3 Mother Tree selection

Mother tree selection: choose the robust mother tree variety that you like for 10-15 years, which requires the variety to grow and develop normally and free from diseases and insect pests.

1.4 selection of branches

The choice of branches: choose the stout branches in the middle and upper part of the crown, because the stout branches in the middle and upper part of the crown have plenty of light, good nutrition, exuberant life, and are easy to breed new plants.

1.5 cutting of branches

Cut the branches on rainy days or when there is dew in the morning, cut them and wrap them in a cool place with a wet cloth. The interception of branches generally leaves about 6~10cm and coarse 0.3cm, the upper end of the branch is cut flat, the lower part is cut into an oblique shape, the upper end of the branch retains 1 or 2 leaves, and all other leaves are erased. Soak the base of the cut panicle in the mixed solution of fresh yellow mud and ABT rooting powder 200mg/kg for 12 hours, which is beneficial to promote new roots and survival rate.

1.6 Cuttage

When cutting, use a bamboo stick to obliquely tie a hole in the seedbed and then insert the cuttings into the hole, the depth of which is about 1 prime 2 of the length of the spike. After insertion, press the soil to the center of the spike with two hands and squeeze it tightly, so that the spike is closely connected with the soil. After the cuttage is finished, water is poured through, and then the solution of 500 times thiophanate methyl or carbendazim is sprayed and sterilized. Immediately after the disinfection work, bamboo or wood strips are used to build a frame, and the shading net is used to cover the shade. The height of the shed is required to leave the bed surface 80~100cm. You can choose three stitches of 70% or two needles to cover with double layers. In the later stage, it is necessary to cover the cuttings with shade along with watering, so as to avoid water loss of cuttings.

1.7 Post-cutting management

1.7.1 humidity and temperature control

When the weather is sunny and dry, water 1-2 times a day according to the soil conditions, and the temperature should be controlled at about 25 degrees Celsius. When the temperature exceeds 35 degrees Celsius, the sun shading net should be set up. Generally, the sunshade canopy and timely watering and moisturizing can make the survival rate of camellia cuttings above 90%.

1.7.2 Lighting Control

The base of camellia cuttings grew new roots after 50 days, so the sunshade net should be removed gradually in September and all in October to speed up Lignification and enhance the ability of wind and cold resistance.

1.7.3 fertilization

After topdressing 2-3 times from August to September, the fertilizer can be applied thinly with human feces and urine, adding 1 spoonful of human feces and urine to 1 bucket of water, or using compound fertilizer 0.2kg mixed with water 50kg, which can be fully dissolved and mixed. After that, it is necessary to sprinkle the seedlings with clean water to avoid fertilizer damage.

2 cultivation of large seedlings

2.1 Land selection and preparation

Transplant the new shoots before and after the Beginning of Spring. The seedlings should be raised with a hoe or tooth rake, and the seedlings should be sorted first-class seedlings and first-class seedlings, second-class seedlings and secondary seedlings, and the overlong main roots and lateral roots should be truncated. When planting, the first-class seedlings and the first-class seedlings are planted together, and the second-grade seedlings and secondary seedlings are planted together, which is beneficial to the uniform growth and small differentiation of seedlings. When planting, the planting should be straight, soothing and tight, and the planting depth is suitable, which is generally deeper than the seedling rhizosphere and watered sufficiently after planting.

2.2 Management after colonization

Ploughing and loosening soil with a small hoe combined with weeding after planting. Fertilization can be applied with rotten rarefied human feces and urine, 4-5 times before June, 2-3 times after September, 30g compound fertilizer per hole, and cover the soil after fertilization. At the same time, pruning, topping and proper shading management should be done according to the growth of each tree.

2.3 trimming and shaping

After 3-4 years of cultivation, camellias can be transplanted with soil, and the branches, leaves and crowns should be trimmed properly and the overlong lateral fibrous roots should be truncated.

A brief discussion on the Technical points of Seedling Propagation and large Seedling cultivation of Albizzia acacia, commonly known as velvet tree, is a deciduous tree of the family mimosa of Leguminosae. Its height can reach more than 16 meters, the branch develops, the crown is umbrella-shaped, the pollen red is velvet ball, the flowering period is from June to August, the pod is strip-shaped, maturing from September to October, it is yellowish brown; it is light-loving, drought-tolerant, water-intolerant, fast-growing and adaptable, and the soil is not strict. In North China, it is suitable to plant in plain or low-altitude mountain areas with warm microclimate. This article focuses on introducing the key points of the big seedling cultivation technology of Albizia, which can be used as a reference and study for the majority of flower friends. First, seedling reproduction 1. Seed harvesting and storage. The pods mature from September to October, the color of the fruit changes from green to brown, and the seeds can be picked after hardening. Pods are picked and dried by beating and threshing with sticks, selected by the wind and stored dry. two。 Sprout the seeds before sowing. Sprouting 10 days before sowing. Put the seeds in a jar, pour them into 80 ℃ hot water and soak them, change the water the next day, rinse the seeds with clean water on the third day, pile them in a warm place with the same volume of wet sand, and cover them with soaked sacks or grass slices to keep warm. After 7 to 8 days, the seeds can be sown when the seeds are whitened. 3. Make the bed on the floor. Choose the sandy loam with high terrain and fertile soil to make the bed. The nursery ground should be flat and fine, with sufficient fertilizer, with a ridge distance of 60 cm and a groove depth of 15 cm. 4. Sow seeds and raise seedlings. The ditching strip sowing method was used to sow seeds from March to April with a sowing area of about 10 cm and a seed consumption of 4 to 5 kg per 667 square meters. To keep the soil moist after sowing, if the soil is too dry to affect seedling emergence, you can irrigate the wet soil in the furrow, and avoid watering over the ridge surface, so as not to harden the soil and affect seedling emergence. 5. The seedlings are fixed. After the seedlings grow the second true leaf and time seedlings, pull out the sick and weak plants and over-dense plants, the distance between the plants is 10 cm, and the seedlings should be watered in time. Second, the main points of cultivating large seedlings 1. The root-raising stage. The sowing seedlings were mainly cultivated by root system in that year, so it is necessary to strengthen the management of water and fertilizer and remove weeds in time. The seedlings need not be pruned to promote the formation of developed roots and lay a good foundation for the root maintenance stage. When the seedling is 10 cm high, it can be combined with watering once human feces and urine, and then topdressing twice a month, chemical fertilizer and human feces and urine can be applied at intervals. Pay attention to timely irrigation, drainage in the rainy season, and stop fertilizing and watering after the beginning of autumn. two。 The dry stage. Before the seeding seedlings were frozen in the same year, the seedlings were graded and pseudo-planted to survive the winter. Seedlings with a straight, sturdy trunk and a height of more than 2 meters are pseudo-planted with a stem; other seedlings are truncated from 5 cm above the rhizome and bury their roots for overwintering. In the first ten days of April of the following year, the plant was planted and dried, and the row spacing of the plant was 40 cm × 60 cm. (1) colonization. In the first ten days of April of the following year, the pseudo-planting seedlings were taken out, the bad roots and diseased roots were cut off, the main roots were cut off 5 cm root tip and then planted, and the planting water was poured in time. (2) keep dry. The fixed seedlings with dry stem were cultured by chopping and dry grafting method. Before sprouting, the full lateral bud branches were selected in the upper part of the seedling stem to promote the lateral buds to develop into branches and grow upward to prolong the trunk. At this time, it is necessary to strengthen fertilizer and water management, remove other lateral branches in time, and promote trunk growth. In that year, it can meet the dry height requirements of garden seedlings (the general dry height requirements are 2.5 to 3.5 meters). For the truncated and fixed seedlings, a vigorous branch should be left as the trunk when the tiller grows to more than 15 cm, and the other branches should be removed in time. Strengthen the management of water and fertilizer, in the case of sufficient water and fertilizer, cutting off the new trunk in the same year can approach or meet the requirement of dry height, and the dry shape is straight. (3) keep the crown. In the spring of the third year, the seedlings that meet the requirement of dry height were coring to promote the lateral branches to form a crown and increase the number of branches and leaves, which was beneficial to the growth and trunk diameter of trees. If the plant is too dense, thinning and transplanting can be carried out before sprouting in the following spring to cultivate large-scale garden seedlings. In addition, the main diseases of Acacia are seedling blight and later anthracnose. Symptoms of blight: Brown blight occurs above the soil marks. Preventive methods: spray 1% Bordeaux solution or 800cm 1000 times dimethazone or other disease control agents every 7 to 10 days from the middle of May to the end of July, and the agents should be sprayed alternately. When the disease is serious, spray 1% ferrous sulfate to prevent and cure, and pull out the diseased plant in time and burn it centrally. Anthrax usually occurs from June to August. Symptoms: at the initial stage, needle-sized brown disease spots appeared at the base of the branches or petioles, and the upper leaves did not expand during the day, and then the disease spots rapidly expanded and spread to the death of seedlings. Control method: spray 65% Dysen zinc 600 times solution or 80% anthrax Fumei 800 times solution, use alternately, and remove the diseased plants and burn them in time. When the disease occurs, the canker can be sprayed with 2000-3000 times liquid of Penicillium, 800 times of bacteria shark and 50% of bacilli. The pests that harm the branches, stems and leaves of Acacia are mainly beetles, butterfly moths, leaf beetles, and occasionally black grasshoppers. Longicorn beetles and planthoppers are harmful to longicorn beetles, killing longicorn beetles with 1 kg kerosene and 50 grams of dichlorvos EC with 1500-2000 times of 25% lice and 1500 times of 40% dimethoate. Conclusion: the above is the introduction of the conservation knowledge of albizzia acacia. I hope it will be helpful to the friends who plant it.