Detailed explanation of propagation and pest control cultivation techniques of large-scale potted green pineapple

Now people like to raise some green flowers at home or in the office environment, especially the green pineapple with strong vitality is the first choice. In recent years, with the increasing demand of potted green pineapple, there are not a few flower farmers who cultivate potted green pineapple on a large scale. But potted green pineapple is not so easy to breed on a large scale. The following editor will talk to you about potted green pineapple reproduction and pest control cultivation techniques.

1 site selection

Choose a site with flat terrain, adequate light, ventilation, good drainage and no waterlogging, surrounded by a fence for protection. The nursery area is composed of a windproof and rain-proof shade with a shading rate of 65%. The site is flat, accounting for 20% to 30% of the total site area, and is located in the southeast corner of the site. The production area is composed of shade sheds with a shading rate of 70% to 80%, the site is flat, clean and weed-free, accounting for 70% to 80% of the total site area.

2 preparation of potted materials

2.1 flowerpot

The specification shall be determined according to the target height of the cultivated product. Generally, a flowerpot with a diameter of 20 cm and a depth of 25 cm is selected with a column height of 130 cm, a flowerpot with a diameter of 25 cm and a depth of 30 cm is selected with a column height of 150 cm, and a flowerpot with a diameter of 50 cm and a depth of 55 cm is selected with a column height of 200 cm.

2.2 cultivation substrate

The matrix with loose air permeability, fertilizer conservation, water conservation and fixation of columns and plants is selected, which is commonly mixed with coconut, peat soil, pond mud and perlite in the proportion of 25%, 25%, 45% and 5%.

2.3 column

It is a plastic circular string with 1 / 2 layers wrapped in brown leather or other materials (not wrapped at the lower end of 15'20 cm). Generally, there are three specifications: column height 130 cm, pipe diameter 8 cm, column height 150 cm, pipe diameter 10 cm, column height 200 cm, and pipe diameter 27 cm.

Propagation of three kinds of seedlings

3.1 Reproductive methods

The cuttings were cut from the mother plant with robust growth, leaf width of more than 8 cm and no disease spot, and the length was generally 10-15 cm. If the panicle is selected from the top, at least 2 fully open leaves should be retained. There are two propagation methods: cuttage and striping.

3.1.1 Cuttage propagation. It should be carried out in June, cutting the branches with a length of 20 ~ 30 cm, removing the leaves of 1 ~ 2 nodes at the base, and potting directly with culture soil with 3 ~ 5 plants in each pot, keeping the soil and air moist, rooting, sprouting and gradually growing into new plants in more than 25 ℃ and semi-shady environment for about 20 days.

3.1.2 striping propagation. The middle part of the vine close to the ground is buried in the soil layer, and the tail end is drawn and tied to the post to strengthen the management of water and fertilizer, and cut off the mother plant after it is formed. This method of propagation can improve the survival rate and save the cultivation time.

3.2 Seedling raising

3.2.1 seedlings were planted on the ground. After machine ploughing and loosening the soil, 30% organic fertilizer was applied to improve the soil and set up the border, with a width of 100 cm, a height of 30 cm, a length of 6 m, and a distance of about 40 cm. The robust and sterilized panicle strips were inserted into the border, and the row spacing was about 15 cm × 25 cm. One bud node and one leaf should be exposed when planting.

3.2.2 raising seedlings in pots. A plastic basin with a diameter of 25 cm and a depth of 30 cm was selected and filled with matrix, the middle column was about 50 cm high, and the sturdy and sterilized panicle strips were evenly planted around the column, with 8 plants per pot.

4 planting time

It can be planted in Guangdong from March to November, and April to September is the most suitable, and the survival rate is the highest.

5. Field management

5.1 Lighting Management

Green pineapple growth does not need strong light, summer to take sprinkling, shading and other methods to avoid burns. In winter, the shading net should be opened to increase the illuminance to avoid frostbite, raise the temperature at the same time, and promote the photosynthesis of leaves.

5.2 Water management

The humidity of the medium in the basin should be kept above 60% after planting, and water should be drenched (sprayed) immediately when it is lower than 60%. Water should be drenched (sprayed) along the top of the column from top to bottom to make the matrix drenched. In winter, the temperature is low, the rate of plant transpiration and soil evaporation is slow, so it is necessary to reduce the watering times and keep the soil moist.

5.3 fertilization management

Spring, summer and autumn are the growing seasons of green pineapple, and fertilizer should be applied frequently and thinly. A compound fertilizer with a higher nitrogen content is applied once every 10 to 15 days, with a concentration of 0.2% to 0.3%. Solid fertilizer can also be applied at a rate of 5 g in a 10 cm diameter flowerpot. In winter, green pineapple grows slowly or even stops growing, so less fertilizer should be applied, and compound fertilizer with high content of phosphorus and potassium should be applied once every 25 to 30 days.

5.4 Plant management

5.4.1 draw vine. It is necessary to draw the vine when the seedling bud has 2 leaf nodes, and the root surface of the vine is closely attached to the surface of the post and fixed with a bamboo stick, so that the aerial root on the root surface is fixed on the post. The introduction of vines needs to be carried out irregularly.

5.4.2 hit the top. When the seedling height is 30 cm, it is necessary to top off the overgrown branches with a height difference of more than 10 cm, so as to prevent uneven growth.

(6) Prevention and control of freezing injury of diseases and insect pests

The prevention and control of green apple diseases and insect pests should be based on prevention. When diseased or residual plants are found, they should be cleaned and buried in time, irrigated with tap water or well water, and reasonably arrange the layout of various varieties in the flower field so as to reduce the repeated infection and mutual spread of diseases and pests.

6.1 Prevention and control of major diseases

6.1.1 soft rot. Also known as green velvet soft rot, is the most common disease in green pineapple cultivation, often causing petiole, stem rot, resulting in wilting and death. At the initial stage, water stains with blurred edges were produced on the green stems or petioles, and then rapidly expanded upward, downward and horizontally, and then the tissues of the tender stems and petioles began to soften and rot and stink. When the disease spot revolved around the petiole for 1 week, the upper part of the disease folded and yellowed. It is easy to occur and popular in the environment of airtight, muggy and high humidity. The prevention and treatment methods include ventilation, cutting off the disease department, spraying prevention and treatment and so on. At the initial stage of the disease, 77% of the particles can be sprayed 500 times, 14% ammonia copper solution 300 times, 72% agricultural streptomycin soluble powder 400 times, neophytomycin 4000 times, and so on, once every 10 to 15 days, 2 times for 3 times.

6.1.2 perforated leaf spot. The disease often occurs in a warm, humid, rainy and poorly ventilated growth environment. Brown spots appeared on the leaf surface at the initial stage of the disease, and after expansion, they converged into large, nearly round and irregular disease spots. In the later stage, the central part of the leaf spot was often perforated, and a small number of small granular black spots appeared on the residual disease tissue. The prevention and control methods include timely cutting off diseased leaves, paying attention to water control and chemical protection in the four seasons. At the initial stage of the disease, spraying 600 times of 12% green copper EC or 1000 times of 70% copper oxychloride wettable powder was sprayed once every 10 days for 2 consecutive times.

6.1.3 anthrax. The disease often harms the middle part of the leaves and can be repeatedly infected during the whole growing period, with reddish-brown or black-brown small pustular spots at the initial stage, faded green halos around the spots, long oval or strip patches after expansion, dark brown edges and yellowish brown interiors. and there are ringlike markings formed by the convergence of dark spots. When diseased plants were found, carbendazim, chlorothalonil or 70% methyl topiramate 800-1000 times were sprayed once every 10 to 15 days, twice in a row.

6.1.4 root rot. The disease often occurs in the period of cutting seedlings, which can reduce the survival rate. At the beginning of the disease, the cutting section appeared wet rot, no callus, gradually spread upward, brown or dark brown rot, the root gradually became brown and rotten, the epidermis of the diseased part was easy to peel off, and the white mycelium appeared in the diseased part. the new leaves on the ground first wilted, and then the whole plant wilted and drooped. Drip irrigation and moisturizing after cutting is the main measure to prevent and control the disease. 50% Root rot Ling or 50% Root rot net 800 × 1000 times should be irrigated in time after 2 or 3 days of cutting, so that the liquid can be infiltrated into the damaged rhizome. According to the disease, it can be used continuously for 2 times at intervals of 7 to 10 days. For those with serious root damage, the recovery effect is better with the use of root-promoting regulators.

6.2 main pest control

6.2.1 scale insects. Two or three generations a year, often clustered on the back of vines and leaves, adults and nymphs suck the sap of vines and leaves with needle mouthparts, causing branches and leaves to wither and even the whole plant to die, and can induce coal fouling disease, causing great harm. Because the scale insect has a shell and strong drug resistance, it is difficult to control, so chemical control should be carried out during the peak incubation period and when the shell is not formed. When it is found that individual branches or leaves have shell insects, they can be brushed off gently with a soft brush, or combined with pruning, to cut off insect tips and leaves and burn them centrally. It can be sprayed evenly with 40% omethoate or 50% dichlorvos 1000 times, once every 10 to 15 days, 2 times in succession.

6.2.2 Spodoptera litura. The larvae bite on the leaves, and the first instar larvae bite on the lower epidermis and mesophyll of the leaves, leaving only transparent spots on the upper epidermis. After the 4th instar, they enter the overeating period and bite the whole leaf, leaving only the main vein. When the damage is serious, the leaves can be eaten in a large area. For the first time, 40% dimethoate EC or 40% speed culling 1000 times solution can be used to pick and treat or alternately spray, spray once every 7 to 10 days, spray 2 times for 3 times, spray enough, and the control effect can reach more than 95%.

6.2.3 aphids. Aphids absorb a large amount of juice from leaves and branches with piercing mouthparts, resulting in nutritional deterioration of leaves and branches, growth stagnation or delay, serious abnormal growth, and can induce coal fouling disease and spread a variety of plant viruses. Yellow board can be used to trap and kill, that is, a piece of cardboard or wood with a length of 25 cm and a width of 20 cm is selected, affixed with yellow paper, and then coated with a layer of butter on the yellow paper to make a trap board, which is inserted between flowerpots, and uses aphids' tendency to yellow to stick aphids on the board to trap and kill aphids. Chemical control can also be used, that is, 1.8% avermectin 2000 × 3000 times or 10% imidacloprid 2000 times wettable powder should be used to control young nymphs, focusing on the growth point and the back of leaves, spraying once every 10 days and 2 times in succession.

6.2.4 Red Spider. The insect has a very strong reproductive ability and likes the high temperature and dry environment. It can reproduce one generation in 5 days at the earliest, and most of them cluster on the back of the leaves to form a net. At the initial stage, the leaves lose green, the leaf edges roll upward, so that they wither and fall off, and in serious cases, the plants die. Usually should pay attention to observation, found that the leaf color is abnormal, should carefully check the back of the leaf, individual leaves injured, can remove insect leaves; more leaves, should be sprayed as soon as possible, commonly used pesticides are propargite, trichlorofenac, dimethoate, dimethoate, etc., spray once every 7 to 10 days, spray 2 times in a row.

6.3 Frost injury prevention

The green turnip is afraid of cold and is not resistant to freezing. In the process of cultivation, if it is frozen, it will cause the leaves to scorch or sag, and it will blacken until death. When the temperature is lower than 12 ℃ in early spring or winter, the plastic film must be covered on and around the shed to keep warm, and vents must be set up to prevent frostbite of green pineapple.

Methods of potted culture of tulips and control of diseases and insect pests

How to cultivate potted tulips? Many flower lovers like to raise a pot of tulips at home, which can not only decorate the home, but also be pleasing to the eye. Tulips are suitable for open field planting, and the soil capacity in flowerpots is limited, which often can not meet the needs of tulip growth, so when potted tulips are planted, variety selection, substrate preparation, planting methods and post-planting management are very important. Let's learn the techniques of potted tulips and the cultivation and management of diseases and insect pests.

1 methods of potted culture of tulips

1.1 Variety selection

There are many varieties of tulips, and the varieties of tulips are rich, and the varieties with low plants should be selected when potted. The plant is too high and the lodging resistance is weak. Choose the tulip bulb with bright color, large and full flowers, high quality bulb, full and fat, no trauma in appearance, hard and heavy texture in the handle of the bulb, no disease and insect pests, and the bulb is 10 ~ 12 cm.

1.2 use basin

There are many kinds of tulips to choose from, including plastic, porcelain, wood, earthen pots, flower pots as large as 1 ~ 2 m, and flowerpots as small as 10 ~ 15 cm, but the best material is plain-fired mud pots and plastic pots, with drainage holes at the bottom. When some flowerpots are displayed according to special needs, plastic color pots with similar shapes can be set for beauty, depending on the demand. Choosing the depth of the flowerpot is also very important, the root growth of the tulip directly affects the flowering quality of the tulip, because the flowerpot is too shallow, which is not conducive to the root growth of the tulip bulb, and the root growth is restricted, which seriously affects the absorption of nutrients and water by the roots in the soil, the plant is weak and slender, and the flowers are small, so the best depth of the flowerpot is 15 ~ 20 cm.

1.3 Pool soil

The peat soil or humus soil with good drainage and rich organic matter was selected as the cultivation substrate. Pastoral soil, peat and river sand were prepared according to 3 ∶ 2 ∶ 1, and the suitable pH values were 6.6 ~ 7. The seed balls were soaked in carbendazim for 20 ~ 30 min, then rinsed with clean water, and the dried seed balls were planted in the flowerpot.

1.4 planting method and density

First lay a little stone at the bottom of the basin to facilitate drainage, and then load the prepared soil into the flowerpot. Before planting, in order to speed up the rooting of tulips, the brown epidermis around the root plate at the bottom of the bulb was removed, and then the bulb was placed. The number of bulbs was determined according to the size of the flowerpot, and the distance between bulbs was 2 ~ 3 cm. The end of the bulb is placed in the flowerpot, the tip of the bud is upward, and the top of the bulb is covered with 5 cm of pot soil.

2 cultivation and management

It is best to finish planting tulips in early October, which basically coincides with the planting time in the open field. Then put the flowerpots planting tulips into the outdoor open field, dig ditches in the open field according to the number and size of the flowerpots, put the flowerpots side by side into the ditches, the height of the ditches is the same as the top of the flowerpots, and backfill the soil around and the space between the pots. After planting tulips should be evenly watered once on the same day, the principle is "timely watering, appropriate watering", water should not be too much, too often, otherwise the pot soil is too wet and lead to seed ball rot. This period is the rooting stage of tulips, the quality of watering directly affects the growth of tulip roots, the substrate can not be too dry, it can be kept moist for a long time, and the amount of water also depends on the specific conditions. it depends on the growth and development of different periods in different weather. In early November, the basin is covered with grass to protect against the cold. In the spring of the second year, with the rise of temperature, the surface began to thaw, remove the cold grass curtain, in order to remove the backfill soil, take out the flowerpot, the time is about the first ten days of April. Move the flowerpot to a ventilated and bright place, high temperature or noon should be shaded, according to the weather cloudy and sunny temperature appropriate amount of watering, do not drought or waterlogging, always keep the pot soil moist, and control the right amount of moisture after flowering. During the growing period of tulips, thin foliar fertilizer is applied about once a week.

3. Pest control of tulips.

3.1 Penicillium

After the injured bulb is stored for a period of time, the scales of the bulbs will fade, and the scales will be covered with green fungi. Prevention and treatment: prevent the bulb from being damaged, keep the air circulation and circulation when storing the bulb, and prohibit the planting of infected or injured bulbs.

3.2 Root rot

Some of the roots rotted, the infected roots turned waxy, and the local soil around the roots turned brown. When the root rot is serious, it will cause the flower to wilt and produce flower fragments, which will be attached to the shorter plants.

Prevention and control methods: before planting, chloropicrin was used to disinfect the soil. The bulbs are disinfected with Lobilone to ensure the air permeability of the soil and avoid stagnant water. In the first two weeks after planting, the soil temperature should be kept below 10 ℃ and not more than 12 ℃.

3.3 Brown spot of bud

Orange-brown patches and stripes appear outside the buds, on which there are water droplets, as if gnawed. The symptoms do not develop further, and the plant usually blossoms normally, but the parietal lobe is damaged. Prevention and treatment methods: disinfect the infected soil, spray mancozeb and carbendazim, and disinfect the soil at the depth of 15 cm. The bulbs are disinfected with robilone and carbendan, and can not be planted with tomatoes, chrysanthemums and cereal crops.

3.4 Gray mold

The seed bulb is completely or partially soft, and a large number of black conidia are produced in the affected area. the plants are fragile after aboveground infection, and the seriously infected plants are very short or not developed at all. Control methods: enhance the permeability of the matrix, strengthen the disinfection of the soil, treat the bulbs with fungicides before planting, and check and remove the bulbs with growth obstacles in time after planting.

3.5 Fusarium

During storage, grayish-brown spots will appear on the infected bulbs, sometimes with concentric circles and obvious yellow edges. In a humid environment, susceptible bulbs are covered with white to pink fungi, have a special smell and release ethylene. When the seed ball shrinks and the seed ball is pinched with your hand, there will be a rattling sound inside. Prevention and treatment methods: lightly infected bulbs should be properly stored to ensure normal storage temperature and humidity, and susceptible bulbs in the field should be removed as soon as possible, otherwise ethylene will be released, resulting in gelatinous bud cracking, bud necrosis and flower blast. Bulbs must be disinfected before planting. When planting, the soil temperature should be lower than 10 ℃ and never exceed 13 ℃.

3.6 soft rot

Bulb rot into mud, the formation of white mucus, first from the leaf tip to light red, and then the whole leaf changed color and withered. Prevention and cure method: the bulb root is disinfected with chloramphenicol, and the other methods are the same root rot.

These are all the key points of tulip pot technology. Friends who want to plant tulip flower farmers at home should study hard.

Control of diseases and insect pests of potted green pineapple

Anthrax

Symptom

Anthrax occurs in the middle of the main leaves, even flowers, but the green apple does not blossom! The leaves will appear reddish brown or dark brown spots, with the aggravation of the disease, the spots will gradually expand, with ring markings. The same plant can be repeatedly infected.

Prevention and cure method

Wash the leaves, wash them with water spray, and bask in the sun more often.

Spraying agents, anthrax infection can only be curbed by agents, you can choose carbendazim, topazine or charcoal, dilute spray the solution, once every 2 days, 3 or 4 times can be good.

Root rot disease

Symptom

As the name implies, root rot mainly harms the roots, causing rot, and in severe cases, it will lead to leaf yellowing and wilting and the death of the whole plant.

Prevention and cure method

Spray 50% carbendazim during the onset of the disease, or directly irrigate the root with solution.

When it is serious, change the soil directly, pull out the green apple, remove the rotten part of the root, and replant it.

Leaf spot disease

Disease symptoms

Leaf spot mainly harms leaves, there will be many small brown spots, similar to anthrax symptoms, but spots will spread throughout the leaves.

Prevention and cure method

Remove the diseased leaves in time, pay attention to ventilation and provide sufficient sunshine.

Spray insecticide, use 500 times of Dysenamine solution, spray control.