Cutting Seedling technique of Rose in South China

When is it good to raise seedlings by cutting in the south of China? Rose can be cut in spring and autumn. Spring is carried out from April to May, during which the temperature is gradually rising, generally taking root 30 days after cutting, and the survival rate of cutting is high. Autumn cutting is from August to October, which is a large temperature difference between day and night, and it takes 40-50 days to take root relatively slowly after cutting, and the survival rate is slightly lower than that of spring cutting.

1 prepare the seedbed

1.1 location: choose the place where the soil is deep, the structure is loose, the permeability is good, the drainage is good and the air is ventilated.

1.2 specifications: 1 m wide and 3 m long, depending on the needs.

2 Matrix selection

Rose cuttings directly inserted into ordinary soil can also take root, but the survival rate is not high, so generally choose fine sand (preferably unused) as the substrate, at the same time, in order to prevent cuttings from rooting in the process of decay, you can add formaldehyde in the fine sand, press 5 ml/m 3, and put the fine sand on a clean beach and turn it over 3 times, so that formaldehyde can be completely volatilized and can fill the bed after 3-5 days. When filling fine sand, make it evenly assisted on the seedbed, then gently press and water once, and at the same time gently scrape the sand surface with wood blocks when the water is not dry.

3. Harvest branches

Choose the annual strong branches in the upper part of the plant that are vigorous and disease-free, and the branches that have just withered flowers are the best. After cutting the branches, spray 1000 times of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder to prevent powdery mildew and black coal disease in the cutting process.

4 cuttings treatment

When too many branches are harvested, they should be soaked in water or stacked under the shade. For the harvested branches, first cut off the residual flowers on the upper part of the branches, select the middle and lower parts of the branches, cut a section every 10 em or so, as a cuttage, the upper end of the cuttings is cut into a flat mouth, and the lower end is cut into an oblique mouth, which is a few millimeters from the axillary buds. The cut is required to be smooth, which is conducive to wound healing.

5Cuttage method

Cutting as far as possible with pruning, with the treatment, with the cutting. When cutting, first use a small stick of 0.6-0.8 cm to cut a small hole in the cutter, and then put the cuttings in the human hole. The cutting depth is 1 cm 3 of the cutting length, and the row spacing is 10 cm X 15 cm. After cutting, the cuttings are gently compacted with hands. After all, sprinkle a small amount of fine sand and pour through the water.

6 plug-in management

6.1 temperature: cutting should not be too high, because the temperature is too high, it will cause axillary buds to sprout quickly and grow into twigs, which is a sign of cuttage failure. Therefore, in order to promote rooting, the temperature should be reduced, and it is best to control the temperature in the range of 22-26 degrees. When the temperature is too high, it can be watered on the shed or on the ground, or properly ventilated to lower the temperature.

6.2 watering: in the early stage of cutting, it is OK to water every 7-10 days. After 30 days, the panicle will begin to take root and shoot, which is a large water consumption, so you can increase watering, usually every 3-5 days. The amount of water should be determined according to the soil moisture and air humidity, and keep the soil dry and wet moderately. The best moisture conditions after cutting are as follows: the field water capacity of the seedling bed is kept at about 80%, and the air relative humidity is 80-90%. When the humidity is too high, it can be reduced by controlling the amount of watering and strengthening ventilation; when the humidity is too small, it can be humidified by increasing the amount of watering and spraying times.

6.3 weeding: pull out the weeds in the bed in time, but do not move the seedlings.

7 seedlings transplanting

Under the condition of ambient temperature of 22-26%, cuttings can take root after 1 month. At this time, the plastic film should be opened every morning and evening to ventilate the seedlings to increase their ventilation and light time. About 7-10 days later, the seedlings can be transplanted to the greenhouse or flowerpot. It should be noted that the seedlings should be watered thoroughly the day before the seedlings are transferred.

8 Seedling stage management

Rose seedlings on the basin should be maintained in the shady shed or other shady places for 7 days. During this period, they should often spray water to moisturize, receive some sunlight every morning and evening for the first few days, and then gradually prolong the sunlight exposure time. As the root system of the seedlings is not very developed, so do not rush to apply fertilizer, at least after 3 weeks, and then apply thin fertilizer and water every 10 days or so. Although the rose seedlings survive, some growers always disrelish that the seedlings grow too slowly, so they promote them by topdressing as they want. this practice is not advisable, because rose seedlings go through a lag period of 1 Mel and 2 months from picking, cutting, rooting and transplanting to the stage of rapid growth. In the meantime, rose seedlings have to gradually adapt to the external environment before they can be born quickly. if growers promote seedlings by fertilization as they wish, things often go contrary to their wishes, resulting in the death of young seedlings. When after a long period of lag, rose seedlings naturally enter the rapid growth stage, when some plants grow some buds, in order to avoid the consumption of nutrients, these buds should be cut off in time. After 1-2 management, the rose seedlings can come out of the nursery, and the growers can ship them to the market or transplant them to the field or larger flowerpots as needed.

Cuttage technique of bag seedlings of ground cover plants in South China

China Garden Network, July 12: there are four ways of propagation of ground cover plant bag seedlings: seed propagation, grafting propagation, cutting propagation and tissue culture. In the southern region, cutting is the most widely used and the lowest cost, and it is easier for seedling farmers to accept cutting.

Influencing factors

I. Internal factors

1. Tree species characteristics

Due to the genetic differences of different tree species, there are great differences in morphological structure, the law of growth and development and the ability to adapt to the external environment, resulting in differences in the survival of cuttings. some cuttings are easy to root and some are difficult to root.

two。 Mother plant and cuttings

With the growth of plants, the metabolism, vitality and adaptability of plants gradually decreased. In general, the rooting ability of cuttings decreased with the increase of mother plant age. Therefore, the younger the mother plant is, the stronger the vitality is, and the higher the cuttage survival rate is. Similarly, it is easier to survive with 2012 branches than with perennial branches on the same plant.

3. Cuttings

The development of branches, that is, the content of nutrients in the branches has a certain effect on the survival of cuttings. In general, the development of branches on the main axis of plants is the best, and the rooting ability of using it as cuttings is stronger than that of lateral branches; the thicker the branches of the same age, the better; the branches on the sunny side of the crown are better than those on the shady side, and the sprouting branches at the base are better than the upper branches. In production practice, some tree species with some biennial branches, that is, heel cutting helps to improve the survival rate, which is related to the storage of more nutrients in biennial branches.

The buds and leaves on cuttings can provide nutrients and growth hormone necessary for cuttings to take root, so cuttings should retain as many leaves and buds as possible to facilitate rooting while preventing excessive evaporation of water.

II. External factors

1. Temperature

The optimum temperature for rooting of most seedlings was 15 ℃ to 25 ℃, and 20 ℃ was the most suitable. When the substrate temperature is 3 ℃ to 5 ℃ higher than the air temperature, it is most beneficial to the rooting of cuttings.

two。 Moisture and ventilation

After cutting, cuttings need proper substrate moisture and air humidity, which is the key to cuttings rooting. First of all, it is necessary to ensure a higher air humidity, generally 80% to 90% of the air relative humidity; second, to maintain appropriate matrix moisture, but not too much, to avoid mildew at the base of cuttings caused by poor substrate ventilation, shading and irrigation can be used to improve the survival rate. In the modern seedling raising technology, the closed cutting bed and all-day automatic intermittent spraying facilities are often used, and the effect is good.

3. Light

Sufficient light can increase soil temperature and air temperature and promote rooting. If the light is too strong, it will dry or burn the branches. Therefore, in the early stage of rooting of cuttings, shading should be appropriate. With the growth of root system, the light time can be prolonged gradually. But plants do not always have the same requirements for light, they have different requirements for light according to different varieties. According to the requirements of light intensity, seedlings can be divided into three categories: positive, neutral and negative ornamental seedlings.

Positive seedlings like strong light, are not resistant to shade, have a higher light compensation point, and can only grow and develop normally under the condition of sufficient sunlight. If the light is not enough, the branches are slender, the leaves are yellow and thin, the flowers are small but not gorgeous, and the flowering is poor. Common tree species are forsythia, Fujian tea, purple peony, dragon boat flower, Milan, rose, hibiscus and so on.

Neutral seedlings prefer light and grow best in sufficient sunlight, but they also have different degrees of shade tolerance, such as camellia, rhododendron, duck foot wood, Zhu banana, Luo Han pine and so on.

Negative seedlings have strong negative tolerance and grow well under moderate shading conditions, such as yew, star anise plate, ivy, butterfly, kidney fern and so on.

Therefore, all kinds of plants should be placed according to their different light characteristics. Positive seedlings are placed in an open and unobstructed environment; neutral seedlings are placed next to big trees or under sparse forests to receive 70% to 80% sunlight; and negative seedlings are placed under multiple shade nets to receive 40% to 70% sunlight.

4. Cutting substrate

As long as the cutting substrate can meet the requirements of soil moisture ventilation conditions of cuttings. Taking into account the cost needs, often use local materials, choose loose and breathable sand loam with high humus content, when the soil is too sticky and heavy, you can appropriately add sand, coconut bran, peat and so on to adjust. In the actual production, the sandy loam soil is mashed slowly with a hoe, it is best to spread out and expose to the sun for two or three days, and carry out high-temperature sterilization.

Rooting promoting method

I. physical treatment

1. Mechanical treatment

Ring peeling, engraving, constriction and other methods are commonly used. After the growth of the new shoot stops, cutting, girdling or binding with iron wire at the base of the branch can prevent the nutrients from the upper part of the branch from transporting downward, so that the nutrients are stored in the branch, and the branch will be cut off in the dormant period.

two。 Etiolation treatment

The cuttings are covered with black cloth, paper or plastic film to yellowing and softening the branches, which is beneficial to the growth of root tissue and promote the rooting of cuttings.

3. Heating treatment

Using electric heating wire or hot water pipe to heat the seedling bed, the substrate temperature of the seedling bed can reach 20 ℃ to 25 ℃, which can improve the survival rate of cutting. For the seedlings with more turpentine in the branches, such as pine and spruce, the cuttings can be soaked in warm water for 2 hours, which can eliminate turpentine and promote rooting.

II. Hormone treatment

1. Kinds

Plant growth hormone can promote the rooting of cuttings, such as indoleacetic acid (IAA), indolebutyric acid (NAA), 2mine4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2mae 4m D), ABT rooting powder and so on.

two。 Treatment method

There are many such products on the market, as long as we buy from regular pesticide stores and operate in strict accordance with the instructions.

Matters needing attention

In order to prevent the seed germination of annual grass weeds, butachlor aqueous solution was used to irrigate the substrate before cutting, usually 20 grams of butachlor solution every 50 kg of water.

Considering the economic benefits, the seedlings must be formed as soon as possible after putting on the bag, so when we are cutting, several cuttings are cut in the same bag at the same time. One is to prevent several other cuttings from surviving when one or two cuttings do not survive, and the other is that if all of them survive, they can quickly form seedlings and come out of the nursery, reducing the backlog of waiting for bag seedlings to grow into seedlings.

Post-insertion maintenance

I. temperature

Cutting branches are generally required to grow roots at 15 ℃ to 25 ℃, so summer should be properly sprayed to cool down. Especially at noon when the temperature is very high, spray several times, once every hour or two, and strengthen ventilation. In winter, some seedlings cannot withstand the severe cold, such as big-leaf red grass, canna, perilla, and so on, they are arched into a semi-arch with bamboo or iron bars on the seedbed, which are covered with agricultural film, and only at noon when the temperature is higher, the film door is properly opened for ventilation.

2. Moisture

The matrix should not be too wet and should be pinched in the palm of the hand and should not spill water droplets. In summer, high temperature and humidity, in addition to the necessary spray cooling, found that the matrix is in a humid state, do not replenish water to the inserting bed. Summer watering should be in the morning or evening, because the soil temperature is about the same as the water temperature, and the hot noon soil temperature is at least 3 ℃ higher than the water temperature, sometimes even more than 5 ℃, so watering is harmful to flowers and trees. In winter, because of the dry weather, the matrix moisture is easy to evaporate, so it is necessary to spray and moisturize at noon when the temperature is higher. It is absolutely forbidden to water flowers and trees in the morning or evening, because the water temperature in winter is generally lower than the soil temperature in the morning or evening, such as watering flowers and trees in the morning or evening, it will have a greater adverse stimulating effect, in the long run, it will cause the death of flowers and trees.

III. Weed control

Once the cuttings are bagged, the weeds can not be controlled by biotic herbicides such as Roundup or glyphosate. Broadleaf weeds can only be pulled out manually, while annual and perennial Gramineae weeds can be controlled by canopy or Weiba when unearthed, while the target plants that belong to broadleaf crops are safe and sound.

4. Topdressing

This depends on the growth of flowers and trees, when the plant growth is gratifying, you can not apply fertilizer, generally cutting for more than a month can apply a small amount of compound fertilizer, after application must be watered.

When will the roses be planted? Brief introduction of planting methods and cultivation techniques of Rose

Rose is one of the most famous ornamental plants in the world, and it has a long history of cultivation in China. After the introduction of rose in China in the 18th and 19th century, it crossed and backcrossed with the original varieties, and cultivated rose, perfume rose, wild rose and rose and other varieties. It has a very high ornamental value. Let's take a look at when the roses will be planted.

When will the roses be planted?

The rose can be planted all the year round, keeping the root system moist in the growing season and preventing cold in winter, but it is suitable from autumn defoliation to spring sprouting, and the best planting period is from autumn defoliation to freezing. In order to make the plant grow and enlarge the flower cluster as soon as possible, large holes must be planted with 1 meter long and 1 meter wide, 0.6-0.8 meters deep, or digging planting ditches with 0.6-0.8 meters deep and 0.8 meters wide. Plant application of organic fertilizer, calcium superphosphate, mixed with the soil and concentrated application in the soil depth of 0.2 to 0.5 meters, after planting, timely irrigation.

The Propagation method of Rose

Rose seed can be used for raising seedlings, but it is easy to survive by using tender wood cuttings in the same year in production. Valuable varieties are difficult to cut and can be propagated by pressing or grafting. Seedlings of asexual reproduction can blossom in the same year. For the seedlings used as potted flowers, the older branches of fine varieties should be selected, the seedlings should be raised by striping method, and attention should be paid to pruning the main buds and artificial dwarfing. For seedlings used as cut flowers, varieties that can form mother branches and colorful flowers should be selected to raise seedlings. Rose can also be propagated by tissue culture, water culture, ramet and other methods.

The planting method of rose flower

1. Soil: the rose flower is not strict in soil, resistant to drought and barren. It is most suitable to grow in deep, loose, fertile, moist and well-drained soil, and it can also grow normally in clayey soil. Whether planted in the ground or potted, the cultivation soil of rose flowers should be fully mature sandy soil as the best.

2. Illumination: the rose is a light-loving flower, which likes plenty of sunshine, and it is also resistant to semi-shade, cold and adaptability. it is suitable to be planted in all parts of the south except for the severe cold in winter. Roses should have enough sunshine during their growth so that they can flourish and blossom more.

3. Watering: roses like to be wet, afraid of being wet and avoid waterlogging. From the rose sprouting to blooming, you can properly irrigate some more water, with the soil moist but without stagnant water as the best. After the rose blossoms, you should reduce the amount of water, dry and wet the soil when watering, and pay attention to drainage and waterlogging in the rainy season to avoid stagnant water rotting the roots.

4. Fertilization: roses prefer fertilizer and are resistant to barren. Liquid fertilizer dominated by nitrogen can be applied once or twice in March to promote the branches and leaves of roses to flourish. In April and May, fertilizers mainly based on phosphorus and potassium can be applied 2 to 3 times. In order to promote the rose flower to have more pregnant buds and blossom, and then apply rehabilitation fertilizer again after flowering, then you can stop fertilization. Roses need to cultivate soil and fertilize once a year in winter.

5. Pruning: pruning and shaping is an indispensable process in most flower breeding, and natural roses are no exception, especially when cultivated as potted flowers, we should pay more attention to pruning and shaping. In general, adult roses are pruned before germination every spring, and the amount should be moderate to ensure that the branches of the roses are dense and beautiful. The old branches and dense branches of roses should be often trimmed every winter to maintain good light transmission and ventilation so as to reduce diseases and insect pests.