Collection of ultra-practical rose year-round maintenance guidelines

This article mainly summarizes the rose maintenance of the selection and purchase, cultivation, daily maintenance, matters needing attention, pruning and other aspects to introduce the rose cultivation experience, deficiencies are welcome to supplement the comments area!

First, rose selection and purchase

Rose selection can be based on their own time and space and preferences to select varieties and quantity, the first planting can buy a small amount of robust adult plants, less risk and quick results.

At the same time, flower friends first buy a strong adult plant, cultivate and grope clearly, and then collect branches and cuttings.

II. Cultivation and transplanting of rose

1. Transplant roses need to pay special attention to minimize root damage.

2. The best time to transplant rose is just before sprouting in early spring or after dormancy of fallen leaves in late autumn, and choose cool and humid weather in spring and autumn. If you want to transplant in summer, choose morning and evening or cloudy days.

3. Water the rose to protect its roots before transplanting, which is beneficial to excavate and protect the soil. The roots dug out should not be exposed to the air as far as possible, and the bare root seedlings should be strictly moisturized to avoid air drying. In fact, dormant plants can only be so exposed in colder seasons and cloudy days, and the roots should be soaked in water as soon as possible.

4. No more than four strong branches are retained in each plant, and the rest are cut off from the base. The branches left behind also need to be cut to about 20 centimeters. Large plants or very strong branches should not exceed 30 centimeters. The leaves on the branches should also be thinned out. Note that the cut is smooth and the buds must not be retained when transplanted in summer. Because the rose is in a slow seedling state at this time, flowering will consume a lot of nutrients, which is not conducive to plant growth. Transplanting in autumn can retain one branch and one bud, as long as the plant is very strong. If transplanting in spring, the rose should be pruned in advance in the early winter, mainly to remove weak branches, disease and insect branches, and short truncated long branches and main branches, mainly plastic surgery. For those transplanted in autumn, they can be pruned or moved along with the cutting a few days before the transplantation.

5. After entering the pit or basin, pay attention to straighten the plant, add a little compaction when filling about half of the soil, the original soil must be lower than the ground or the edge of the basin. To step on or compact after filling the soil.

6. After filling, the soil is thoroughly watered, and then watered again the next evening. Three water was watered on the fifth day. If there is rainfall during this period, reduce watering appropriately. If transplanting in summer, the plant should be sprayed to keep moisture sooner or later.

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In addition, pay attention to proper shade, do not put in the sun exposure. 7Murray successfully slowed down the seedlings for about 10 days, and then gradually increased the sunshine.

7. After planting, 50% carbendazim wettable powder 800 times solution can be sprayed to the plant to control powdery mildew and black spot.

8. The root system of the newly transplanted rose needs to be restored, so don't apply any fertilizer at this time. Wait for the new branches and leaves to grow before you can add a little bit of fertilizer, pay attention to "thin fertilizer".

Third, daily maintenance of Chinese rose

This part of the coordinates of Beijing, all parts of the country should be analyzed according to their own geographical location.

Supplement base fertilizer in January or February every year, dig holes near the roots, and if possible, you'd better dig circular grooves. Put organic fertilizer / hemp residue / cake fertilizer and so on, pig, cow, horse and sheep manure is better. At the same time, some sulfur powder and lime are mixed and liquid sprayed on the roots of the plant to prevent insects.

After a complete recovery in early April, nitrogen fertilizer was applied and watered thoroughly in order to make it thrive and promote buds. The most powerful nitrogen fertilizer is urea (chemical fertilizer). Just give it once in spring, and more will cause it to grow and not blossom.

Aphids are most likely to appear on the buds in mid-April. Observe carefully. If you squeeze your hands to death, if you have more, you will spray. I use "chrysanthemum kill", and the effect is very good. Pay attention to the elimination of aphids when the first buds appear from mid-April to early May. It is difficult to administer medicine when they bloom. After spraying once and again every three days, it can basically be wiped out. But we must strictly follow the concentration of the instructions, can only be less, not more, the concentration is too high to burn buds.

In mid-May, the first batch of flowers began to supplement phosphorus and potassium fertilizer every half a month, irrigating roots or spraying leaves. If you enter the flowering period, you can properly control the amount of water, which can prolong the flowering period.

From May to June, you can enjoy the fruits of your labor and take a picture or something.

Plants in completely unsheltered areas can be shaded appropriately from the end of June.

When the rainy season begins in July, it doesn't matter once in a while. A long period of overcast and rainy weather can lead to all kinds of mildew. In July, it is necessary to regularly spray carbendazim / chlorothalonil to prevent mold. In addition, it is also necessary to spray medicine to control all kinds of small meat insects.

In August and September, the new side branches that do not blossom and some branches that affect the plant type should be cut off, one is to save nutrients, the other is that the branches and leaves are too dense and unventilated and prone to diseases and insect pests, and a slow-release fertilizer is added at the same time to prepare for a full bloom in autumn.

You can transplant or change pots from late October to November. Those planted for more than two years or planted in too large pots can remove five to eight centimeters of topsoil and replace them with new mixed nutrient soil.

The whole plant can be pruned from December to February, and the suitable branches will be cut.

IV. matters needing attention

1, the daily watering should be dry and wet, the rose likes it very much, but the root is afraid of waterlogging, do not always soak it, water more in hot days, less in cold days, absolutely not in the hot sun, in hot weather, try to irrigate the roots in the morning and evening, otherwise, if there are germs on the upper leaves, they will follow the water to the lower leaves and become infected as a whole.

2. Rose likes big fertilizer, but it must be applied thin and frequently-it is safer to have a lower concentration. From mid-May to mid-October, you should replenish liquid phosphorus and potassium fertilizer every 10 days, and appropriately reduce the concentration of fertilizer and water in the heat.

3. Rose likes big sunshine but is afraid of exposure. More than half of the varieties will be scorched and curled in the hot sun and can be shaded properly with the thinnest sunscreen. Potted plants can be moved to the shade to avoid heat when the sunshine is strongest.

Fifth, pruning the rose

General rose daily pruning is to remove the residual flowers after flowering, the position is to spend the next leaf or two leaves, mainly depends on the thickness of the branch, thick branch can be one leaf, thin on two leaves, the incision should be inclined to prevent water storage disease.

Usually, we should observe more and clean up the diseased branches in time. One kind of insect branches is a small hole in the cross section of the woody stem with a diameter of 1 to 2 millimeters. There must be worms inside. Cut them off little by little until you find them. The other is the appearance of a half-millimeter black hole in the bud and the flow of black juice, which needs to be cut off directly, and there are small flesh worms in it.

Clean up the non-flowering lateral branches in time from July to September, generally no more than one inch long, no flower buds at the top, the branches themselves are dark green, appear to be very old, and the sticks are completely cut off. Another method is to always clear the bud after blooming in late spring and early summer, so that there will be the same number of blossoms in early autumn as in spring. The advantage of this approach is that it saves nutrition and does not make the plant very tired. it is conducive to the growth of plants.

Autumn pruning will be later, until the leaves of the rose fall completely dormant. If the new buds grow out early, the temperature will be frozen as soon as the temperature is low, which will affect the growth of the next year. I plan to cut it again before the beginning of spring.

Personal summary has the following points to pay attention to:

1. Roses planted in the ground, especially those close to each other, should not be cut too short, otherwise the branches are short and strong, which is not conducive to ventilation. Of course, this should be in line with personal preferences-cut less if you like tall tree-shaped plants, and cut more plants that like short flakes.

2. The plants with slender branches should be cut more to make them strong, while the thick ones should be cut less and be pulled up and propped up.

3, in order to the overall plant type must be willing to under the scissors, horizontal branches occupy more land, but also affect the overall beauty, it is best to cut off.

4. The old branch will reduce the number of flowers with the increase of age, so it can be cut and replaced year by year, not all at once.

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