Want to get the meat out of shape? Cultivating the root system is the key. The god teaches you how to root the succulent plant.

22 February

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Foreword Qian Yan

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The author / knows more than Baiqian

Editor / succulent plant sink

There is a saying in the succulent world, "watering for three years, raising meat and raising roots first". If you want to raise your meat out of the state, it is very necessary to cultivate the roots first!

And the key to root maintenance lies in soil and moisture. Today, I will chat with you about how to root and grow roots in various succulent states and stages.

The first thing to say is that the leaves are inserted. When the leaves are rolled off, be careful not to hurt the growing point. After drying the wound, you can insert the leaves. It is not recommended to water and spray the leaves before they sprout, which can easily cause the leaves to melt water and black rot.

It is generally noticed that small leaves tend to sprout roots faster than big leaves. This is because small leaves have less nutrients. In order to ensure their own survival, mother leaves secrete more growth hormone and sprout roots faster to absorb nutrients to survive.

The speed of the leaf hairy root depends on the humidity of the air, so the hairy root inserted by the leaf in spring is the fastest and best to survive. When the air humidity is high enough, it can take root only in the air without touching the soil surface. So now some friends also use the "water-induced root method", that is, they put the leaves at the mouth of the bottle with water, do not touch the water, and root by evaporating water vapor to meet the humidity requirements.

Here I also introduce a method, a flowerpot with bottom hole, large particles at the bottom, a large proportion of peat mixed with a small amount of granular soil, paved with red jade soil, fresh-keeping film to seal the pot, it is better to have a transparent lid.

Soak the bottom particles at the bottom of the flowerpot directly in water, and the water vapor will be slowly absorbed by the soil from the bottom, and the leaves will be laid flat on the red jade soil, making use of the good water absorption and root affinity of the red jade soil, as well as the artificial air humidity created by sealing the film. the leaves will soon sprout, and after they take root, bury the root into the red jade soil, remove the sealing film and soak at the bottom, and then you can spray and water normally. As long as the mother leaf sprouts and touches the water.

Leaf cuttings need enough water, so when the red jade soil on the surface is dry, it should be watered. Leaf cuttings should be maintained in astigmatic ventilation, and the basin can be moved when it is big enough.

At this point, you should have understood that for hair root, the most important factor is "air humidity".

As for what medium is used and whether it should be watered or not, these are not the main factors that affect the root of meat hair.

As long as the humidity in the air is high enough, it can send out roots even if it is put on the air.

Many people buy meat through the net, and the succulent meat is transported by removing soil, pruning and drying roots, so if you want to raise a lot of meat, it is very important to raise a lot of meat during this period of time after potting.

Generally speaking, the meat bought online has the following states:

1 decapitated rootless seedlings, 2 rare seedlings, 3 well-developed thick roots, 4 diseased water black rot and so on, I will not talk about it.

In general, decapitated and rootless seedlings and seedlings with sparse roots can be soaked with rooting powder for a few minutes to ensure that the wound has healed, so that they can take root faster.

The seedlings in this state are not suitable to use large granular soil, otherwise it is easy to kill the root hairs without attachments. At this time, the proportion of soil peat is a little more, the particles are not too large, 2-3mm is fine.

During this period, we must ensure that the soil is always moist, and don't think about things like dryness and lack of water in summer. once the new root system dries up and wants to grow better, it will be several times more difficult. I'll show you the black rot of the seedlings every minute. You should keep the soil where the flesh roots are not dry all the time, as long as they are dry, not once every few days.

Many of the great gods' experience posts have always stressed that watering should be dry and thoroughly watered, which is actually very reasonable. I have a pot of ice berries that has happened.

At first, it was a large single head, chopped off and had no roots. So it was laid flat on vermiculite to root. The new root came out quickly and dense, and I put her on the pot in less than 2 weeks.

The growth in the following three months was very gratifying, and the ice berry sprouted continuously in a very short time. In this state, I take it for granted that its root system is very good and strong.

It was not until the beginning of spring this year (it has been more than half a year since she started the pot) that I found the problem when I thought I could give her a big basin to make her a better group. This ice berry hardly takes root deep, and the longest root is only about 3 centimeters.

Such meat, if we take it for granted that their roots are already strong enough, and then throw them into the outdoor environment to hone, there may be problems.

In the indoor environment, the rosette of ice berries blocks a large area of soil, allowing the moisture in this part of the soil to dissipate very slowly. So you can keep plenty of moisture in the topsoil. When this part is hydrated enough for the meat to grow, they will appear to be in a very healthy state.

When you send this kind of meat out to breed, the soil is affected by the sun and wind, and the rate of evaporation suddenly becomes faster, making the surface soil moisture much less than before. Meat in the case of short roots, for a time unable to absorb water from the deep soil, there is a wilting condition.

Now let's get back to my ice berry. What mistakes did I make in the maintenance process that caused her not to take root? (you'd better think about it and look back)

The first mistake is that the watering is shallow and frequent. Because I have extra expectations for the growth of her lateral buds, I water her more frequently. Because of frequent watering, of course, every time very restrained did not water thoroughly. This artificially helped her to create a cultivation environment in which the topsoil was more humid than the bottom.

The second mistake is to ignore the water retention capacity of the rosette and shallow roots of ice berries. The soil on the edge of the flowerpot is dry, but there is plenty of water under the rosette of ice berries.

Meat is also very lazy. Although the root system is very important, it is often enough for them. When the root system can always provide enough water for the meat, there is no need to spend a lot of money to grow the root system.

Some flower friends' meat has been raised in a black square pot for a year, and it has grown so big that it needs to be turned over. But when I turned the basin, I found that the root system of meat was not as strong as I thought.

The most crucial problem in this is the role of watering.

Under the premise of pouring water thoroughly, the soil in the flowerpot begins to evaporate from the topsoil. After the topsoil is dry, the meat finds that the soil below is still wet, so the roots will grow down. When the soil in the middle dries again, the fluvo-aquic soil at the bottom of the flowerpot stimulates the fleshy roots to drill deeper into the soil.

If you are used to shallow watering and frequent watering, you don't know whether the soil at the bottom of the flowerpot is wet or dry. If the soil at the bottom is drier than the topsoil or the middle soil, the roots of the meat will not grow down very well.

Finally, I want to talk about how to know that the root system of your meat is really strong enough. It may be a way to see if the root system grows out of the bottom hole, but it is obviously not a reliable way.

Strong roots have a good water retention capacity, allowing the soil in flowerpots to dry much more slowly than empty ones.

If you pour 100 milliliters of water into a flowerpot, meat with poor roots may only absorb 5 milliliters, while meat with strong roots can absorb 50 milliliters of it.

If you can double or longer the usual watering time without any significant change in their state, your meat must have a strong root system.

It takes patience to grow roots.

Don't rush for quick success and instant benefit, thinking that a seedling can grow into a big thick root in the first place. Don't transplant or root frequently, don't pull it out and read it, say it three times.

It is necessary to try to achieve planting in one step and last for more than one year at a time (some adult plants can be changed once every 2 or 3 years). Too frequent transplanting will affect the systematic development of roots and shorten the life of roots.

The following issues are mainly involved here:

The main results are as follows: (1) the root system is a self-organizing micro-ecological balance system: any plant is an organism, and we should believe in the self-balance of life.

As long as we mix the soil well and improve the environment, the problem of growth is their own business, and the growers should not interfere excessively. Because a micro-ecological environment is gradually formed around a root system, the rhizosphere microflora can effectively ensure the development of root hairs and prolong the life of the root system.

Therefore, do not arbitrarily change the cultivation environment, do not arbitrarily apply fungicides (except when necessary), do not arbitrarily apply chemical fertilizer. In the process of cultivation, many friends are too anxious and lack of experience, which is an important reason for the damage of rhizosphere micro-environment.

(2) prolonging the life of roots: we often talk about why the roots of Japanese plants are so good and white that there is no aging.

The root lies in the efficient cooperation of Japanese planting environment and soil quality, as long as the root is in a soft micro-ecological environment, there is no pathogenic bacteria, no extreme environment, and the part of the stem and leaf environment is stable, the root will be healthy and long-lived.

The key to the solution is to grasp the relationship between humidity and air permeability of the matrix, not too wet and not too dry. In specific practice, we can choose a moderately closed environment (stuffy), the combination of ventilation and moisturizing, watering too much, the temperature should not be too high, observe the existence of diseases at any time, do not apply chemical fertilizer or unfermented fertilizer at will.

In a better root maintenance environment, the old root can even be replaced in situ by the new root (the new root grows inside the old root). This phenomenon is called "nested hairy root", which is a sign of successful cultivation.

(3) the balance of stem, leaf and root: the response of stem (mainly refers to the growth point) and leaf to the cultivation environment also directly affects the balance of hormones in the plant and affects the root system.

In fact, the relationship between root system and stem and leaf is very close, and only when they interact with each other, plants can grow smoothly. Leaves are used for photosynthesis, and the stronger the photosynthesis, the higher the activity of cytokinin and the downward transport of auxin, which is conducive to root development; strong light does not mean strong photosynthesis, and excessive light may even block photosynthesis, so moderate light is the key to planting.

Plants with growing points and leaves can root as long as the environment is suitable and time is enough, and gradually form intact roots; decapitated plants without growing points had better retain leaves, otherwise the roots will gradually shrink; decapitated plants without growing points and leaves must not be cut off prematurely after the formation of new buds, and 1 or 2 buds should be properly retained to meet the life span of the roots in order to produce more seedlings.

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