MySheen

A brief discussion on the watering methods of raw stone flowers under various conditions

Published: 2024-09-20 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/09/20, Text: network coordinates Foshan, subtropical monsoon climate, this article only represents my point of view, absolutely can not be used throughout the country, please be careful to refer to watering and soil allocation can not be said separately. My soil distribution is as follows, particle peat ratio: sowing.

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Picture and text: network

Coordinates Foshan, subtropical monsoon climate, this article only represents my own point of view, absolutely can not be used all over the country, please refer to it carefully

Watering and soil blending cannot be said separately. My soil distribution is as follows, particle peat ratio: sown soil 4v6; more than one year 6VO4; more than three years or colonized soil 8:2. This paper talks about watering on the basis of this soil distribution, please refer to it carefully.

It's been dragging on for a long time. Let's talk about watering raw stone flowers today. This should be the most troubling problem for beginners. It can be said that if you master the watering method, you will be able to basically master the maintenance of raw stone flowers. But watering must be analyzed in detail, and there is no way to summarize it in a single sentence, so I'll take it apart and say it.

1. Watering method of raw stone flowers after potting

It is appropriate for newcomers to enter the pit from September to April. Please pay attention to the temperature and reduce the amount of water supply from May to September.

For newcomers, if there is no other flower maintenance experience, watering experience is almost zero. Here, it is suggested that beginners should not rush to grow their buttocks and water the empty pot so as to have a preliminary understanding of the drying speed of the cultivated soil. Specifically, you can do this: put the culture soil in a planting vessel, completely pour it thoroughly, semi-thoroughly, and soak it in a basin for 1 or 2 seconds, respectively, and then observe how long it will take for the soil to dry completely in your own environment. A preliminary understanding of the drying speed of the cultivated soil is obtained, and a lot of detours can be avoided.

After you have an understanding of fully transparent, semi-transparent, and a little bit of water, you can buy it. Here will be faced with the first problem of newcomers, the root of the basin. Newly bought buttocks, it is recommended to trim the root, trim the remaining 0.5-1cm, dry for 1-2 days and then put it on the basin. Put it on the pot for 1 day before watering.

There are two watering methods: A. plants with full wrinkles or 1-2 wrinkles for more than one year are easier to restore their roots, and it is recommended to water them half thoroughly. In the following week, according to the dryness of the surface, you only need to water a little to keep the soil in the middle and upper layers slightly moist. It usually takes 3 days to take root, and the root system is very good in two weeks. Be careful not to recommend flooding, because plants with good roots may grow in vain. B. A small amount of wrinkled or withered plants for more than a year. This kind of plant loses a lot of water, and it is possible to enter a slight dormancy state, even if it is not dormant, the water content of the plant is insufficient, and the hair root is relatively slow. Therefore, such plants should be half-thoroughly watered to fully permeate, and it is appropriate to keep the upper and middle soil moist for the next week without spilling water from the granular soil. Wait until it is observed that the wrinkles of the plant are reduced, that is, the root is successful, and the upper-middle microtide can be maintained in the future order. The rooting can be completed in about 7-14 days, and the root system basically grows well in 20 days.

For individuals with seriously lagging hairy roots in the same basin, dig out and root separately.

After the completion of the root, can be normal maintenance, the next two water supply suggested basin immersion, about the 3CM water level, soaking 1-3 seconds, specifically depending on the feel, each kind of soil is different. The aim is to promote the plant to take root.

two。 Watering method of sowing and transplanting seedlings of raw stone flower

As soon as the seedlings are removed, or the seedlings are transferred for a full year, the normal and healthy plants should refer to the appeal method A, and the weak seedlings should refer to the method of category B. Weak seedling is a small root is weak, to root must be flooded, to keep the upper and middle soil moist, how much can survive depends on fate. You can replenish the weak seedlings with water every day, and don't be afraid to grow in vain because of the large amount of water. as weak chickens, they can't do it.

3. Individual daily maintenance of raw stone flower for more than one year

The water demand of different varieties is different, and the discussion here is based on the Japanese wheel. I very much agree with the experience summed up by the elders, "no wrinkle, no watering". When the root system of the plant is good, wrinkles will appear when the plant is slightly short of water. 1-2 wrinkles can be improved obviously in 1 day after watering and disappear within 3 days. More than three wrinkles can be improved within 3 days of watering and disappear within a week. After watering, the plant can recover from the depression on the surface to the state of flat spread or protruding on the surface, and no matter how much water there is, it is possible to burst and grow. Therefore, do not wrinkle do not water this method, can intuitively give watering instructions, newcomers to feed as the primary task, there is no need to do other fancy attempts.

In addition to "do not wrinkle, do not water", "wet between dry and wet, water thoroughly" is also a method often mentioned. But in my own practice, this method is not suitable for me. On the one hand, it is difficult to get wet and dry, and the other is easy to collapse for a long time. I have relatively high humidity throughout the year, random sowing in the four seasons from February to May, hot and windy from May to November, and suitable temperature from November to February, but the cold and warm front hovers and it is easy to continue cloudy and light rain. Therefore, I really do not dare to say such words as "water it thoroughly". Let's discuss watering by month.

November-February, the growing season, the temperature drops, sunny days dry breeze, bold can choose to water through, I am timid to choose semi-transparent. The so-called semi-transparent, is the basin immersion for 3 seconds, the soil surface does not appear wet or no more than half the area wet. The disadvantage of basin soaking is that it is difficult to grasp the time and is easy to be excessive. The advantage is that the water is concentrated at the bottom of the basin, and the embarrassment of suffocation at the top and drying at the bottom can be ensured that the plant can absorb water.

From February to May, during the growing season, the temperature rises gradually, the weather is repeated, and there will be bad conditions such as 40 degrees under the sun and overcast and rain for two consecutive weeks, so the water supply should be cautious, semi-permeable or a small number of times. Please pay more attention to the weather forecast and choose a continuous sunny day to supply water.

From May to November, in summer, it is hot, and the plant goes into a state of mild or complete dormancy. Mild dormancy also responds to moisture, which will grow and recover slowly; complete dormancy does not respond to moisture, so please do a good job of cooling and cutting off water. My personal experience is in summer, shade during the day, keep below 45 degrees, below 30 degrees at night, the sun ring can also grow, and the speed is not slow, at most into a mild dormancy state. During this period, it is not recommended to cut off water, but must be "water control", that is, careful water supply, you can choose night spray, a small amount of watering. In addition, summer can also choose two or three consecutive days of cloudy days to pour half through, while the fan service. You don't have to be very fierce, the breeze is enough to keep the air flowing and not muggy. Continuous sunny days should not be semi-permeable or even thoroughly watered, high temperature during the day is easy to steam. Summer does not pursue the growth rate, but to spend it safely.

The way of watering according to the season is probably like the above, please refer to your own environment for specific months.

4. Watering patterns of individuals in each growth state for more than one year

In the growing season, watering is enough, dry and wet, choose continuous sunny days to pour semi-thoroughly, pay attention to ventilation.

Watering before peeling: the so-called pre-peeling, I think, is the end of dormancy from September to November (which is already the flowering season for barren qu), entering the growing season or the early part of the growing season. During this period, the old skin and root system of the plant began to recover, and the new head began to breed. I think a small amount of multiple water supply can activate the plant, which can be regarded as an adaptation preparation for the sufficient water supply in the growing season. After all, after drying for a summer, the activity of the root system weakens, in the face of enough water can not be absorbed, too much water is easy to cause danger. At this stage, the appearance of the plant does not change much, but the root system and new head are active. The transfer of nutrition from the old skin to the new head is consumed, and the difference comes from the soil.

I also have a point of view: without activating the root system, the new head will not grow and will not be desquamate. Therefore, it is not recommended to cut off water in summer.

I see that the advice given by many people is to cut off water during the desquamation period, bask in more, and abuse severely. My personal experience is that such a general proposal is not feasible. The TOP RED (No. 1) I bought is big, the flowers are also brilliant, and the root system has grown out of the basin bottom. When it comes to peeling and cutting off water, it has not been taken off all summer, and the growth of new heads is also very slow. Bought TOP RED (No. 2), medium height, sturdy, directly do not speak, the new head can not be seen. In this way, the water has been cut off, and the plant has maintained this growth progress in the process of peeling, but the plant may have been dormant and the external environment has entered the next growing season. Take this example, is to show that during the desquamation period, the new head may not be able to fully absorb the nutrition of the old skin, during which water cut off may allow the new head to enter dormancy.

I usually don't show this basin to people. I'm too poor to meet people, but since I want to discuss it, I'm not afraid of losing face. Work for a summer, the old skin can not be taken off, the new head of water supply can grow. Now the new head is not short and fat, but it is much better than it was last year. It is estimated that it will take two or three years to bring the plant back. If you look closely, you can see that the layer of old skin in the middle is drier than that on the outside. I am the middle activity is higher than the outside activity, after all, a year younger, can transfer nutrition to a new head. On the other hand, the outer layer had to be dried slowly or torn off when the new head looked similar.

Watering during peeling period: water must be controlled during this period, otherwise it will grow in vain. When the new head wrinkles, never mind the old stone dried up, give a small amount of water to allow the new head to recover.

For this 256, during the second peeling, the normal water supply is good, and the peeling period of one or two years does not need to be cut off. But each time the water supply is given in a small amount, a large amount will blow up the old skin, which is not conducive to the nutrition transfer and dryness of the old skin.

The end of desquamation: when the old skin becomes thinner and can see a new head, you can choose to wait, or you can choose this time to supply water and break the old skin. When there is not enough sunshine, the new head has grown to about the same age as the old man, but when the old skin refuses to work, you can also choose to pour half through to break the old skin, and the old skin will be wiped out slowly later.

For those individuals whose old skin has cracked and the new head has grown, but the old skin is still very thick, do not mind, the old skin will be watered, and the old skin will dry slowly, which may take half a year, if not, tear off the old skin manually, it will not have much impact, after all, the new head has also grown up, and the old skin is a share of the field, excess nutrition reserves, although this nutrition may not necessarily be useful.

It was double-headed before desquamation, and now the new man is about the same age as the old man. You can see the marks of new head and old skin squeezing flowers on the new head. I tore up the two pieces of old skin in the middle, so that they have room to grow, and now they have grown tight. The old skin on the outside is kept, which has a certain protective effect, and is not so easy to be hurt by granular soil. Should also be watered, even if the old skin is still there.

If the new head grows up and the old skin is completely dry, congratulations, this is the most worry-free state, poured half thoroughly, the new head grows very fast.

Old skin completely dry soil did not shoot, to this state can actually be watered. Old skin has been over, will not return to growth because of watering, break after the sun can be killed.

Individual watering: water control, a small amount of water supply, completely cut off water is not advisable, my 56A is broken for a year, the new head is not short, wrinkled to give water, and so on the next time the new head grows up, it is more practical to cut down the apprentice. It is not in vain to say that one apprentice has worked for three years.

It is this 56A, and the old skin of the previous year, torn up a little bit, there is a picture of the truth, indicating that the water cut off alone can not allow the new head to absorb the nutrients of the old skin. Must be combined with temperature (temperature difference), light, watering to promote peeling. Do not consider the other two factors blindly cut off water, can only let the plant into dormancy. Now the new head is also gradually growing up after the resumption of watering.

In addition, peeling is difficult and overgrown individuals are not recommended to peel off at once, the new head is fragile, anthocyanin is not enough, easy to kill, it is recommended to separate the old skin step by step for a few days, so that the new head has a gradual contact with the outside world.

In addition, the adult plant than in 2012 drought tolerance, watering a little less, watering interval is a little longer, please combine with your own environment.

Another point is that different varieties of stone flowers have different requirements for light, temperature, humidity and moisture, and even great differences. It is best to raise each variety separately, and the new varieties live in a single room. After exploring the maintenance method, plant more than one pot. After all, it is easier to control the water supply of each plant in a single room.

Finally, make a comparison of plant shape without water control.

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