MySheen

High grafting and replacement method of mango

Published: 2024-11-05 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/05, First, before preparing to change the species, it is necessary to strengthen the fertilizer and water management of the changed trees. Prune the aboveground parts properly and remove diseased, withered, shady and overdense branches. Cross branches should be cut off; for perennial trees, the main and side branches should be sawed off at 1.2-1.5 meters above the ground in spring and autumn (spring and autumn grafting, autumn saw grafting in the next spring).

First, before preparing to change the species, it is necessary to strengthen the fertilizer and water management of the changed trees. Prune the aboveground parts properly and remove diseased, withered, shady and overdense branches. Cut off the cross branches; for perennial trees, cut off the main and side branches (spring and autumn grafting, autumn saw grafting in the next spring) and leave some branchlets at 1.2-1.5 meters above the ground in spring and autumn. After drawing new shoots, only 2-3 new shoots are evenly distributed in each saw. When the new shoots are ripe and their diameter is more than 0.5-0.8 cm, they can be grafted on the new shoots. 15 days before grafting, fertilization should be stopped, which can slow down the flow of sap, which is beneficial to grafting. Second, during the grafting period, when the sap is about to flow, that is, before the new shoots are pulled out, rootstocks and scions are easy to peel. High temperature, low temperature or rainy days, the survival rate is low, while spring (March-April) and autumn (mid-August to mid-September), the survival rate can reach more than 90%. Although high grafting can survive in May, it is easy to encounter high temperature when it sprouts after survival, and it is easy to return to dry phenomenon; in October, high grafting can also survive, but at this time it is experiencing drought and temperature decreasing gradually, and it grows slowly after surviving sprouting, and even new shoots may appear frostbite or frostbite to death. Third, the high grafting method selects the stout, disease-free and pest-free old mature branches or cork branches as scions from the mother branches with good fruit. Methods there are bud slice affixing, single bud ventral grafting and single bud splicing. For trees without short truncated branches, bud splicing or single bud ventral grafting is used for the high grafting of the original branches 1 to 1.5 meters above the ground, and the cutting method or bud splicing method can also be used for new branches that have been truncated. When grafting, it is best to use extra-thin film for bandaging. The single-layer film wraps the scion bud eye, and the sprouting bud can grow through the film after survival, thus reducing the film picking process. Fourth, after timely unbinding and grafting, the film should not be released prematurely, otherwise the new shoots will wither. Generally speaking, it is safest to unbind the new shoots when they turn green for the first time; unbinding too late will affect the thickening and growth of rootstocks and scions and cause rot. In the case of ventral grafting of buds and splicing of buds, the 8-10 cm branch tips on the interface should be cut off 30-40 days after grafting, and then unbound after the new buds become old mature shoots, and cut the anvil for the second time, that is, it is appropriate to cut to the top of the graft.

 
0