Culture methods and matters needing attention of family potted daffodils

Chinese daffodil is one of the important varieties of French daffodils, which is mainly concentrated in the southeast coast of China. Daffodils like to be warm, moist and well drained. Daffodils originated in Jiangling, Hubei Province. It has been cultivated in China for more than a thousand years and is one of the traditional famous flowers in China.

Select seed ball

The pros and cons of daffodils determine how many flowers bloom and whether the fragrance is strong. If you want to raise a good pot of daffodils, you must start from choosing a good daffodil bulb, which can be selected from four aspects: looking at the shape, observing the color, pressing and asking the village.

1, look at the shape: high-quality daffodil bulbs, generally large, flat, hard, epidermis longitudinal vein stripes distance is wide, the media is very tight, the skin color is bright, the root disc is broad and thick, and there are symmetrical bulbs beside the main bulb.

2, look at the color: from the outside, the bulb is dark brown, the capsule is intact, the color is bright, there are no signs of decay and insect pests.

3. Pressing: pressing is the main means to select and identify the number of daffodils arrows. Can use thumb and index finger to hold the bulb, press a little hard, feel the outline is columnar, elastic, more solid, for flower arrow; feel soft, the outline is flat, the elasticity is slightly less, then mostly leaf buds.

4. Wenzhuang: daffodils are generally packed in bamboo baskets of the same size, with four packaging specifications for 20, 30, 40 and 50 bulbs in each basket, commonly known as 20, 30, 40 and 50. The smaller the number of bulbs per basket, the larger the bulb. For example, with 20 bulbs in each basket, the diameter of each corm can reach 12 cm, which is first-class; the individual of 30 corms is slightly smaller than that of 20 cubes. The above two kinds of daffodil bulbs can generally blossom more than 4-7 arrows per ball, which is the top grade. 40 Qing and 50 Zhuang bulbs, the individual is much smaller, generally only 1-3 arrows of flowers.

Dormant ball budding

1. Strip: peel off a layer of brown epidermis on the outside of the bulb.

2. Cut the ball: in the upper half of the bulb, the left and right parts of the bulb are cross-cut at 3 points each, and then 2-3 layers of scales are cut upward, and at the same time, a knife is cut down in the middle of the left and right sides of the bud, down to the waist of the ball. During the operation, the tender buds should be avoided and the old roots and soil at the bottom should be carefully removed.

3. Soak the ball: soak the chopped bulb ball in clean water for 1-2 days, then rinse the glue out of the ball.

4. Sprouting: the soaked bulbs should be exposed to the sun, preferably in a container and covered with rice chaff. Water the rice chaff once a day to keep the chaff warm and humid. At this time, we should pay attention to the cold and light is too strong, can be properly covered. A week later, new buds sprout and can fully expose the sun. About 50 days, the flower head darts out, you can take out the daffodil ball, rinse clean, transplant in the water basin.

Culture method

Daffodils like sunshine and warmth, and require high humidity in the air, not very cold-resistant, and afraid of heat, and the vegetative growth period needs wet sandy soil without stagnant water. Narcissus is different from other perennial herbaceous flowers in that it begins to grow in autumn, blossoms in winter, stores nutrients in spring and dormancy in summer. There are two methods to cultivate daffodils: hydroponic culture and soil cultivation.

1. Hydroponic culture of daffodils

The water culture method is to use the shallow basin water immersion method to culture, put the daffodils upright into the daffodil shallow basin, add water to submerge the bulb 1/3, and the bulb can be fixed with quartz sand and pebbles in the basin.

① daffodil pots should be placed in sunny places during the day and moved indoors at night, and the water in the pots should be poured out to control the excessive growth of leaves. Add water the next morning and be careful not to move the direction of the bulb. Just on the basin, daffodils can change the water once a day, and then every 2-3 days, after the formation of the bud, change the water once a week. Daffodils grow well at 10-15 degrees, bloom in about 45 days, and the flowering period can be maintained for more than a month.

② daffodils during aquaculture, especially to give sufficient light, during the day to put in the sun, at night can be put under the light. In this way, the stems and leaves of daffodils can be prevented from growing, while the leaves of daffodils are short, wide and strong, with thick green leaves and fragrant flowers. Water to raise daffodils, generally do not need fertilization, if there are conditions, in the flowering period a little application of some available phosphate fertilizer, flowers can bloom better.

③ does not need any flower fertilizer to raise daffodils, just use clean water. In order to make the daffodils grow strong, you should get the balcony to bask in the sun during the day. If you want to postpone the florescence, you can take the method of lowering the water temperature, or pour out the basin water in the evening and add fresh water the next morning. In addition, if the full bud is not seen 10 days before the festival, the method of heating the water supply can be used to promote the flower, and the water temperature should be close to the body temperature.

As long as you master the conditions for the maintenance of daffodils, you can "bloom as you like"; otherwise, it will be delayed, or even the long leaves will not bloom.

2. Soil culture of daffodils.

① soil culture method is seldom used in families, that is, most moist soil flower cultivation methods are used to cultivate daffodils. In mid-late October, large bulbs were planted in small porous flowerpots with fertile sandy soil, half exposed, and some fine sand should be padded under the scales to facilitate drainage. Put the flowerpot in the room with plenty of sunshine and suitable temperature. It is better to take 4 to 12 ℃, too low temperature is easy to produce frost injury, too high temperature plus insufficient light, easy to grow steeply, plant is weak, flowering time is short, reduce ornamental value. If the requirements of light and temperature are met in the management, the leaves will be enlarged and the flowers will be stout, thus making the flowers bloom large and fragrant for a long time. If you cultivate daffodils in soil, you can apply liquid fertilizer two or three times before flowering.

② daffodils can not reproduce on their own due to limited climatic conditions. The cultivation of daffodils, if there is no harm to diseases and insect pests, do not need to be sprayed. Water culture of daffodils in winter, temperature, light and water supply are the three elements of whether the daffodils can blossom. The growth of daffodils requires plenty of sunlight; the suitable temperature is 12 ℃-15 ℃; clean water.

Prevent "dumb flowers"

The so-called "dumb flower" refers to the phenomenon that the scape of the daffodil dies in the middle of the water culture, the bud withered or the bud decayed before it opened. The phenomenon of "dumb flowers" is mainly caused by the following reasons:

1. The quality of daffodils is poor. The sphere is small, the flower bud is dysplastic, the sphere suffers from diseases and insect pests, the root disc is dry and decayed, the hairy root is few, and the physique is weak.

2. Improper maintenance. Lack of frequent change of water, lack of light, high room temperature and poor ventilation, resulting in long leaves and thin scape. In addition, the damage to the root and scape during the change of water will also lead to "dumb flowers".

3. Inappropriate season for aquaculture. If Frosts Descent's former bulb is in a dormant period or when the temperature rises after the Qingming Festival, there will be "dumb flowers".

To prevent "dumb flowers", we should first select three-year-old high-quality bulbs for water culture. It is best to use Rain Water or pond water. If tap water is used, it should be stored for one day before use. Then it is necessary to ensure that the daffodils have sufficient light, not less than 6 hours a day, and pay attention to indoor ventilation. The temperature is kept at 12-15 degrees, which is most conducive to the growth of daffodils. In the north, the weather is dry and water is sprayed on daffodils every day.

Control of diseases and insect pests

The main diseases and insect pests of Narcissus include brown spot, leaf blight, nematode disease, aspergillosis, penicilliosis and so on.

1. Brown spot mainly harms the leaves and stems of daffodils. When the first dye appears in the leaf tip, brown, when a large area of infection, the leaves and stems will appear disease spots, so that the leaves are twisted, the plant stops growing, resulting in death. At the initial stage of the disease, 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 600-700 times aqueous solution can be sprayed every 5-7 days, several times to control the development of the disease. Peel off the membranous scales before planting, put the bulbs in 0.5% formalin solution, or soak in 50% carbendazim 500 times aqueous solution for half an hour to prevent the occurrence of the disease.

2. The withered leaf disease mostly occurred on the daffodil leaves, which was faded green macula at the beginning, then expanded in the shape of a fan, surrounded by yellowish green halo, and the leaves dried up and black particles appeared in the later stage. The disease can be peeled off before planting and rinsed with dilute permanganate for 2-3 times. At the initial stage of the disease, it can be sprayed with 1500 times aqueous solution of 50% Dysen zinc.

3. Nematode disease, which mainly harms the leaves and stems of daffodils. At the beginning, yellow-brown mosaic stripes will appear on the leaves and stems of daffodils, and then blisters or waves will appear, causing the epidermis of leaves and stems to break and turn brown until they wither. The disease can be prevented by soaking the bulbs in 0.5% formalin solution of 40-43 degrees for 3-4 hours. If the plant is found to be seriously infected during maintenance, the diseased plant should be removed and destroyed immediately.

Control florescence

The florescence of daffodils is earlier than peaches and plums and later than plums. Generally, water culture begins in autumn and winter, and it can blossom in winter and spring. So, how can we make the daffodils blossom during New Year's Day, the Spring Festival? This goal can be achieved by artificially controlling the period of daffodils.

In general, daffodils can blossom as scheduled after 45-50 days of water culture. The so-called normal aquaculture, that is, to ensure that after daffodils aquaculture, there are 6 hours of light every day, room temperature at about 10-15 degrees is appropriate. If the weather is abnormal, the light is insufficient, and the temperature is too low (too high), measures should be taken to make the daffodils blossom as scheduled.

1. When the temperature is too low and the light is insufficient, you can replace the daffodil basin with warm water of 12-15 degrees; surround the daffodil basin with plastic film at night, and use 60 watts of light 40-50 cm away from the flower to increase the temperature and strengthen the illumination. at the same time, water should be sprayed on the leaves of daffodils to prevent the temperature from rising suddenly.

2. When the temperature is too high, an appropriate amount of cold water should be added to the Narcissus basin, and the water in the basin should be poured out at night for low temperature treatment, which can delay the flowering of Narcissus.

To prevent excessive growth

1. If you want to cultivate daffodils with short leaves and long pedicels, the key is to promote pedicel growth and avoid excessive growth of leaves. When raising daffodils in water, first remove the brown envelope on the appearance of the daffodils, cut longitudinally between the buds in the upper part of the daffodils, cut through 3-4 layers of scales, and then cut horizontally on both sides, do not hurt the flower buds, wash off the mucus, and culture them in a shallow basin.

2. Put it in a sunny place during the day, pour out the water in the basin at night, and then add water to cultivate it the next morning, so as to avoid the excessive growth of leaves.

3. The effect of short leaves and long pedicels can also be achieved by planting in the ground or potted plants and then raising them in water. The specific approach is to first plant the daffodils in sunny places, water them every day until the pedicels are drawn, then dig out the daffodils, wash the soil, and keep the water indoors to watch.

Post-anthesis treatment

Generally speaking, the daffodils wither after the Spring Festival. Usually people will throw away the daffodils that have bloomed, which is a pity. Narcissus is a perennial plant, it is reproduced by bulbs, if those flowering bulbs are buried in the soil, it can continue to grow and reproduce.

Choose the vegetable garden or nursery land with leeward to the sun and deep soil layer, and build a high ridge after deep ploughing and raking, and trench on the ridge, in which the flowering bulbs are buried, and the leaves are preserved naturally. A month later, the leaves withered and dormant, at this time to dig up the bulb, cut off the fibrous root, and cut off the withered and yellow leaves along the base, and then bury the bulb at a depth of 10 cm, while applying rotten cake fertilizer or human feces and urine, and then rake flat. You can't save trouble and bury things in the flowerpot, because the bulbs have to spend the long seasons of spring, summer and autumn in the soil, especially in summer and autumn, when the heat is hot, the bulbs are buried in them, and there are no leaves on them. If you forget to water and fertilize them, it will cause drought and death.

After dealing with the bulb, the following work is the daily maintenance and management, usually as long as pay attention to give sufficient nutrients to the garden, while keeping the garden moist but without stagnant water, the bulb can grow naturally. Wait until November or December, and then dig out the bulb, then you will find that the old bulb is rotten and empty, but there are many bulbs large and small around it. Pick out those bulbs with many large buds, wash the soil above, peel off the brown skin film on the surface, and then leave them in the sun for a few hours, then use a knife to make a "ten" cut at the top of the ball, with a depth of no harm to the bud eyes in the scale. grow out with sharp buds and leaves. Soak in clean water for 24 hours, wash the gelatinous mucus from the incision, and then carry on the normal aquaculture. Generally 3 days later, the white fibrous root can grow at the bottom of the ball, and the bud eye at the top of the ball will gradually sprout leaves. As for those small bulbs, because they would not blossom that year, they were allowed to grow in the soil for another year, and then dug up for aquaculture the following year.

Breeding skills

1. Aspirin can help daffodils bloom. Use 1 to 2 aspirin tablets and dissolve them thoroughly in water to replace the water in the daffodil pot to make the flowers stronger and luxuriant.

2. The daffodils increase their temperature and promote their flowers. Daffodils grow slowly at low temperatures, and can be induced to blossom by warming:

① sunlight warming: during the day, transfer to the outdoor sun, or indoor south-facing glass windows, until flowering.

② lighting heating: cover the flowerpot with a plastic cover, turn on the light, and wait for the temperature to stop at 23 ℃.

③ electric heater heating: turn on the electric heater or place the hair dryer in a position not to scald the daffodils and let the warm wind slowly blow the flowers for several days until the flowers bloom.

④ warm water warming: put a small amount of warm water in the basin to raise the water temperature to 12: 15 ℃.

3. Salt can prolong the period of daffodils. When the daffodils are all in full bloom, put a small amount of salt into the basin to prolong the flowering period. Do not put salt when the daffodils are budding, otherwise it will inhibit the opening of the buds. Or grind two aspirins into powder, put them in 1000 milliliters of water, dissolve and sprinkle them in the blooming daffodils basin, which can prolong the daffodil blooming period by about a week.

4. The method of brightening. When the daffodils grow to a height of about 25 cm, the aqueous solution of food pigment steamed from pastry is injected into the stem with a medical syringe, and the injection point is the upper 1cm of the stem height.

5. Prevent rotting roots. First of all, if the water is empty at night, the roots will not dry up. The hair root is yellow and soft: change the water frequently. To keep the water clean, daffodils had better change the water every 3 days to prevent root rot. Soft toothbrushes can be used for yellowing.

Culture methods and matters needing attention of daffodils

Many households want to dress up at home full of life, daffodils are more suitable for indoor plants, during the day daffodils pot should be placed in the sunny place to give sufficient light, can make daffodils leaves broad, tall and straight, leaf color bright green, flower fragrance. How to raise daffodils? What are the points for attention in breeding daffodils? The following is an introduction for you, so that you can have a correct understanding in your life. The editor has carefully prepared some knowledge here. Let's go to know it with the editor. I hope the content of the editor will be helpful to you!

Tall daffodils

The cultivation method of daffodils: this kind of method is commonly used in family breeding of daffodils. Before raising daffodils, remove the dry brown scales on the outer layer of the daffodil's head, remove the root mud and the brown rotten roots at the base, wash the appearance and stand upright in a shallow basin without drainage holes. Pour clean water into the basin, submerge the bulb about 1 cm, put it in a cool place, grow roots with bulbs, and then put it in the sun. Soil cultivation: generally speaking, soil cultivation is rarely used in family cultivation. Soil cultivation of daffodils requires the use of loose humus, peeling off the dry bulbs of daffodils before cultivation and scraping off the old roots for cultivation. Add humus to the edge of the basin about 3 cm, shake the basin to make it tight, then put the daffodil bulb plate into the picture of about 1 cm, then pour water, move the flowerpot to a cool place, wait 5 days after the bulb grows, and then move to the sun for breeding. The first step in the breeding method of daffodils is to select the seed bulb. when selecting the seed ball, you should pay attention to the shape, color and sense of pressure. the good seed ball is large, flat, hard, non-rotten, bright in color and slightly elastic when pressing. The second is to choose the appropriate growth environment, daffodil growth needs sufficient sunlight and water, the appropriate temperature is about 15 degrees, if the sun is not enough, it is difficult to make it blossom. Before aquaculture, peel off the dry brown scaly leaves on the outer layer of the bulb, remove the mud and the brown rotten roots at the base (be careful not to hurt the new white roots), wash the surface, stand upright in a shallow basin without drainage holes, add water to about 1 cm under the daffodil's head, put it in a cool place, wait for the bulb to grow roots, and then put in the sun. Hydroponic daffodils had better change water every day, on the one hand, to prevent water deterioration and pollution caused by rotten roots, on the other hand, change water every day, clean water grows out of the roots are also white and beautiful. When changing water, use sun-dried tap water. Avoid too much water and soak to one and a half of the flower heads. Before flowering, the water can be changed to 2mi every 3 days. With fertilization, the nutrients in the bulb of Narcissus are almost depleted after budding, so it is necessary to apply proper fertilizer in the later stage of growth. Starting from the pregnant bud, apply a small amount of potassium dihydrogen phosphate to the basin (0.5 grams each time) or spray the foliar surface with 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate when changing water. Light, daffodils are short-day bulbous plants, as long as there are 10 hours of light every day. In the growth stage, like more light, sufficient light is conducive to the assimilation of plants to accumulate nutrients.

Pest control, Narcissus bulb base rot: the bulb shows dark brown rot after the bulb is damaged, and the whole bulb rots in severe cases. The control method is to soak the bulb with 25% carbendazim 500 times solution for 15 minutes for 30 minutes before planting, and irrigate the roots with 800 times solution of carbendazim. Narcissus stem nematode disease: the yellow-brown mosaic stripes appear on the leaves and flower stems after the disease, and finally the epidermis breaks and the leaves wither. Prevention and control methods, sowing balls can be dipped with 40% formaldehyde 120 times.

Potted daffodils

Daffodils culture precautions 1, the temperature should not exceed 25 ℃, otherwise the growth will stop growing into dormancy, causing the bud yellow shriveled, impotent dry; 2, the sun should be sufficient, otherwise the leaves will grow into garlic leaves; 3, the water used should be clean, otherwise the roots will be polluted due to water deterioration. The growth of daffodils has special characteristics, and its flowering date can be determined by people. If it is required to bloom during the Spring Festival, the bulb (daffodils) can be planted in a pot about 20-300 days before the Spring Festival. How to cultivate lilies how to teach you how to cultivate potted lilies like thousands of creatures, lilies want to thrive and eventually produce beautiful flowers, the most fundamental conditions are: the quality of the ball itself is good, the environment is suitable, and management keeps up. And from the planned planting to the final flower withering, you should always care about her and carefully manage the lilies, so as to ensure that the lilies are as you wish and pleasing to the eye. As for whether we can make money, we still need to see whether the market can help, but the flower friends are self-appreciating, which is not within the scope of this article. 1. Successful ordering of high-quality seed balls is the foundation of successful planting. However, because the ball is not an industrial product, it is a crop, and it is an imported product, facing various national quality inspection requirements, there will always be various problems. No matter which company, at home or abroad, is sure that there is no problem with our order (supply, supply quality), it must be a liar. Such being the case, we can only choose reliable suppliers to reduce the probability of problems with planting balls.

High-quality lily bulbs: a common problem with strong, clean, well-rooted lily bulbs is Penicillium infection (pictured below). If the infection does not endanger the base plate of the bulb, it is not a big problem.

Freezing injury-the buds of the bulbs turn black (as shown in the following picture). If they are serious, they can only be scrapped.

2. Environment: the common slogan is "grass has life". I remember that a Dutch expert also said, "if you can drink water, it can also drink; where you can live, it can also." Grass also has life, tells the true meaning, you must be like your own baby, to touch it, to feel it, and then change its environment at any time, it can repay you with beautiful flowers. 1) soil: soil structure: although all soils, lilies can grow. However, it is very important to ensure that the cultivated soil has a good structure and good drainage throughout the growth stage. Poor soil structure and consolidation often make lily roots grow fragile or even die due to lack of oxygen, or due to poor drainage, resulting in the death of lily roots caused by Pythium, resulting in poor growth or even death of lilies. The picture below shows the death of the roots due to the lack of oxygen due to the heavy rain during the typhoon. Of course, the soil is too hardened and the situation is more and more serious.

Soil pH and salinity: maintaining a proper soil pH is very important for the root development and correct nutrient absorption of lilies. If the pH value is too low, it will lead to excessive absorption of mineral nutrients (such as iron, manganese, aluminum), while too high pH value will lead to insufficient absorption of phosphorus, manganese and iron. We all know that the deficiency is bad, but we may not know it all if we go too far. 100 contract is sensitive to salt, too high salt will form hard, fragile and yellowing, brown roots, reduce the absorption of water by the roots, affect the quality of lilies, and even cause the death of lily roots and lily plants. Soil salinity is often affected by the fertilizer and moisture used. The following picture used to be a very beautiful root system, but it is a pity that some or all of the roots died due to the use of immature organic fertilizer.

Soil pathogens: lilies often cause plant death due to soil fungi harming their roots. The common fungi are Rhizoctonia, Pythium and Phytophthora. Rhizoctonia is harmful only when the buds are still in the soil, and Pythium can be mitigated by improving soil drainage. Generally speaking, it is necessary to use broad-spectrum fungicides several times in the whole growth process, such as chlorothalonil and so on. The following picture shows the damage caused by Rhizoctonia and Phytophthora.

From the above, we can see how critical the suitable soil is to the success of cultivation. If the soil is not good, no matter how much energy you put into it, you can only treat each other with tearful eyes. Therefore, it is best to choose soil that has not planted lilies before to grow lilies, of course, the most ideal is to choose peat (domestic peat), in order to reduce the difficulty of management, it is very wise to use 80% peat and add 20% perlite or loose scale medium. If taking into account the base fertilizer, the use of controlled release fertilizer is the most ideal, if you have a preference for organic fertilizer, please be sure to use rotten organic fertilizer.

With such a good root system, why not have beautiful lilies? 2) temperature rooting period temperature: 2-3 weeks after planting, it is very important to maintain an appropriate low temperature (10-12 degrees) to ensure that lilies can grow good stems and take roots. However, most of the time, we can not guarantee such ideal weather, so professional growers use cold storage to take root, and we can use the fresh-keeping layer of the refrigerator to put the lily bulb with peat (peat is not too wet. It is a good idea to wrap (breathable) in the fresh-keeping layer of the refrigerator. Although the low temperature will prolong the growth period, I think you should not mind managing it for a few more days.

In the case of rooting, in the hot season, it takes root first and is planting. Temperature during the growth period: although the ideal temperature for lilies is 15-25 degrees, there is no way to control the temperature of nature, but in extreme cases, we still have to avoid it. Lilies are prone to frost injury when they are below 5 degrees, and higher than 35 degrees. The growth period will be greatly shortened, and the quality will decline accordingly. In summer when the sun is strong, we can reduce the temperature by shading and strengthening ventilation. How comfortable it will be to enjoy a cool breeze in the shade of trees in summer. 3) relative humidity: the appropriate relative humidity of lily should be between 70-80%, but this is for professional producers to produce in greenhouse. There is no need to consider that lilies are planted in the yard or on the balcony. In greenhouses, poor growth is often caused by high humidity, but it has not been seen that even continuous rain leads to poor growth of lilies outdoors (provided that the soil is well drained and fungicides are often used to control Botrytis cinerea), of course, slight effects will still be encountered. This is because the ventilation in the greenhouse is not ideal, people will feel very stuffy when they go in, and plants will feel the same way. Give some pictures of the damage to lily leaves caused by high humidity in the greenhouse.

Because the humidity is too high, the water pressure in the plant is too high, and finally the leaves are damaged due to the rupture of the cell wall, and the serious buds are gone; this is a physiological disease, not a bacterial hazard, and fungicides are useless. The use of calcium fertilizer can increase the resistance of cell wall and reduce the harm.

Because of the long-term overcast and rain, the leaves of the plants are very tender, and because the plants have to remove too much water from the body, the stomata of the leaves are always open and open for a long time, so that the stomata of the leaves eventually lose the function of closing (originally they will open-close and adjust by themselves according to climatic conditions). After the overcast and rain, the stomata of the leaves still open for transpiration and drainage, resulting in the loss of water and paper, and even scorching of the leaves. 4) shading: shading can control temperature, relative humidity and light. In summer, the sun is usually so strong that 80% of the light can be obscured 2-3 weeks after planting (before budding). After budding, because Asian lily and LA hybrid lily are sensitive to light, lack of light will lead to bud elimination, which can be appropriately less shaded, such as 50% shading, oriental lily is insensitive to light and can still cover 50-70% of the light. General links of family potted lilies: 1. Preparation: 1) cultivation medium: it is suggested that we should choose peat soil as the main medium to plant. 2) Fertilizer: it is recommended to mix 3 kg of 14-14-14 slow-release fertilizer and 0.5 kg of calcium nitrate as base fertilizer per cubic meter. 3) pots: 13 cm pots can plant 3 12-14 cm balls; 15 cm pots can plant 3 12-14 14-16 cm balls; in this way, choose the basin according to your own situation. The best height of the basin is more than 12 cm; 2. Receive the lily ball: after long-distance logistics, when we receive the lily ball, it is thawed. Normally, there should be a little small bud, as long as the length of the bud is not more than 5 cm, and it is not broken, then even the curved bud does not have any problem, please rest assured to plant boldly. If you receive the ball, you can soak it in 600-800 times of chlorothalonil for 30 minutes. 3, seed: 1) first stir the medium and base fertilizer evenly, water until the hand can drop water; 2) spread 2-3 cm stirred medium at the bottom of the basin; 3) put the ball bud head outward, plant in the basin; 4) cover the ball with a medium of about 8 cm; 5) pour water thoroughly and place it in shade to avoid sunlight as much as possible. 4, it is recommended that the planting quantity in each pot is 1, 3, 5 balls, the odd number is better, if more than 5, the odd and even numbers do not matter. In the temperature from June to July, buds can be seen in 7 days. 1. Medium: peat soil

2. Fertilizer: controlled release fertilizer calcium nitrate

3. Basin: 160 two-color basin, planting 3 balls

4. Seed 1) the correct planting method: the bud head of the ball rests against the basin wall.

Incorrect planting method: the ball bud head rests to the middle, and the consequence: the buds are all concentrated in the middle, which is not good-looking.

Of course, if you plant at will, when the buds grow, it will be very disorderly and unattractive. As for potted plants, it is best to wait for the ball to have a 3-5 cm bud, so that the orientation of the bud can be controlled, so that the overall appearance of the plant is better. What is the growth environment after planting? Two weeks after planting, lilies still need relatively low temperatures to continue to have good roots, so potted lilies can choose places where there is no direct sunlight; lilies planted in open fields can use sunshade nets to block direct sunlight. However, whether it is potted or cultivated in the open field, after the lily sees the bud, the lily should see the light immediately, the potted plant can be moved to a place with sufficient light, and the sunshade must be removed in the open field, otherwise, it will affect the number of buds and the quality of flowering of lilies, especially Yabai, which is more sensitive to light and when serious, the buds all fall off. Proper topdressing can make the stems of lilies stronger, especially in hot summer. However, it should be noted that the concentration should be lighter than usual, so as not to cause fertilizer damage. Topdressing can also choose high-potassium lily special fertilizer 15-15-30 to mix with water, the concentration of 1000-1500ppm, that is, 1 gram of water-soluble fertilizer added to 1-1.5 liters of water, mix evenly. The characteristics of each variety are different, and the time of flowering is also different. But the temperature will also affect the flowering sooner or later. For the regular flowering time of specific varieties, please see the product information of each variety. Here, I would like to remind the northernmost friends that if the temperature is below 10 degrees at night, please move the lilies indoors at night. Generally speaking, the time from rooting to flowering of Dongbai is about 100 days, while that of Yabai is only about 60 days. Therefore, when flower friends choose varieties, please choose varieties according to local climatic conditions and their own conservation conditions, so as to avoid being frozen off at the moment of flowering, and it is a pity that previous painstaking efforts have been wasted. Note: 1. As mentioned earlier, "it is a good idea to use the fresh-keeping layer of the refrigerator to wrap the lily seed ball with peat (peat is not too wet." it is a good idea to take root in the fresh-keeping layer of the refrigerator. 2-3 weeks of rooting period, so from the freezer temperature of 5 degrees, when taken out, the outside temperature is at least 25 degrees, can you adapt? Answer: yes, professional lily cut flower producer, take out the lily ball after rooting in the cold storage, and the temperature in the greenhouse is as high as 40 degrees. However, please pay attention to shading in the early stage, and reduce the degree of shading after budding. If shading has been re-shaded up to 80%, Asian lilies may lose buds due to lack of light. 2. How to plant a ball after flower failure? after flower failure, please cut off the remaining flowers. Of course, the stems and leaves are preserved. At the same time, please maintain normally, usually in the low temperature season (November-December), the aboveground stem will die, the ball is in the ground, at this stage, please reduce the use of water and fertilizer, after the beginning of spring, as long as the ball is not rotten or eaten by worms, will grow and blossom again. Plant lilies in the yard, you can not care about it, the next year it will grow out well, can be year after year, and there will be more and more lilies. 3. Send some pictures of lilies planted in pots from abroad.

How ★ potted lilies belong to cool flowers, that is, areas with cool climate and large temperature difference between day and night are most suitable for growing lilies. The lily does not have the brown old skin outside the tulip bulb and must be kept at a constant temperature of 2 degrees before it is planted in the soil, otherwise it will quickly take root and rot easily. So after we buy lily bulbs from the market, we must plant them as soon as possible, not for long. First, be ready to plant the ball with buds above and roots below, so don't turn it upside down! Some balls have not yet grown roots, it depends on the scale opening upward is the bud! Seed balls should be disinfected before planting, soaked in imported carbendazim 1000 times solution for 20 minutes, washed with clean water, and then can be planted after drying.

Second, the prepared soil and pot lily like the sandy soil with good fertility, water retention and drainage. Peat: River sand: perlite = 2:2:1, you can also use cactus soil, but you can't use clay anyway. Because lilies belong to bulb flowers with two layers of roots, the container should be selected in a deeper basin.

Third, planting first put 10-15 cm of soil at the bottom of the basin and put the ball. If there are three heads in a pot, the head of the ball will be placed toward the edge of the flowerpot, that is, tilted to the edge of the pot, so that the plants can be evenly distributed after germination. Cover the top of the ball with soil of about 5 cm, pour water thoroughly and leave it in a cool place for 1-2 days.

Fourth, conservation moisture: keep the soil moist, spray water twice in the morning and evening during the period from bud to flowering. In addition, 1000 times of imported carbendazim solution is used to irrigate twice a month. Fertilization: fertilization is usually applied once a month.

Common problems in lily cultivation 1. Leaf burning causes: physiological lack of calcium, occurrence conditions: overweight shade, poor ventilation, high air humidity, continuous overcast days, low soil pH value, bad plant roots and other conditions are prone to preventive measures: improve ventilation conditions, increase plant water transpiration. Proper lighting in advance to refine seedlings. The use of rooting treatment and replanting is beneficial to the development of roots and the absorption of calcium ions. Leaf burning can also be reduced by peeling leaves (separating clasped leaves) before the leaf burning period. Keep dry, avoid stagnant water on the plant for a long time to increase the application of calcium fertilizer such as calcium nitrate, can be carried out by root fertilization or foliar fertilization.

2. The reason of burning root and burning root: the salt concentration of soil solution is too high A, the salinization of soil itself is serious, the EC value is too high; B, improper fertilization, excessive fertilization at one time, resulting in excessive concentration of soil solution; C, lack of water, the soil is too dry, it will also cause the concentration of soil solution to increase. Preventive measures: do not choose the soil with high salt content; do not put the substrate or fertilizer with high salt content directly on the planting ball; use the method of applying thin fertilizer frequently to avoid using a large amount of fertilizer at one time, resulting in root burning; often check the root system, such as root burning, should be watered and sprayed with foliar fertilizer.

3. High temperature has a serious impact on lilies. High temperature should be avoided as far as possible, including high temperature such as soil and environment. If the temperature exceeds 30 ℃, it is called high temperature.

4. Common leaf yellowing

5. Epidemic prevention measures: A. give priority to prevention, avoid persistent high soil moisture (especially to avoid flooding) and excessive air humidity, and try to avoid air humidity above 90%. B, disinfect soil and seed balls before planting, you can choose dimethazone, ethyl phosphorus, aluminum manganese zinc, carbendazim and other C to avoid continuous cropping in epidemic crops with common pathogen hosts, such as continuous cropping with Mantianxing, carnation, Solanaceae, melons and other vegetables. That is: planted all over the sky star, carnation, eggplant, melon soil try to avoid replanting lilies. 6. preventive measures against root rot: controlling soil moisture, disinfecting soil with carbendazim, dimethazone and carbendazim to reduce nitrogen fertilizer use, especially ammonia nitrogen, and appropriately increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.

7. Preventive measures of Fusarium stem rot: planting bulbs and soil disinfection before planting; reducing soil temperature

8. Botrytis cinerea-avoid persistent high humidity environment

9. Blind flower (no flower) Blind flower reason: A. insufficient supply of water and fertilizer: Lily is a flower variety that needs more water and fertilizer supply. in the early stage, it mainly depends on the nutrition supply of seed bulb, and in the middle and later stage, it mainly depends on fertilizer and water supply and photosynthesis to maintain plant growth. If the supply of water and fertilizer is not good, it will seriously affect the growth and development of lilies, resulting in thick and thin branches, weak plants, blind flower buds and so on. B, too high temperature: too high temperature will seriously affect the quality of lilies: lilies like cool climate, too high temperature, too fast growth, less material accumulation in plants, and high consumption of organic matter, which will cause malnutrition, and heavy ones will cause blind flowers to drop buds. C, lack of light: lack of light, too dense planting, poor ventilation, affect plant photosynthesis, less material accumulation, easy to cause plant weakness or even bud drop. Especially the OT type lily is sensitive to light, and it is easy to eliminate buds if the light is not enough. D, insufficient nutrients of bulbs: the size of bulbs is too small, the harvest of bulbs is too early, and the storage time is too long, which will also make the bulbs lack nutrients, which can easily cause lily blind flowers and buds. E, the cultivation depth is too deep: planting too deep, resulting in lily unearthed slowly, will consume a large part of the bulb nutrition, so that the plant nutrients are insufficient, poor growth, heavy cases lead to blind flowers. F, poor root growth of lily: poor root system and insufficient absorptive capacity of lily, resulting in insufficient plant nutrition, insufficient nutrition for bud growth, inhibition of bud growth, and blind flowers and buds.

Variety selection and planting method of ★ lily. The basic introduction of lilies is difficult to raise. In fact, I am not a bulb fan, the order of many years of cultivation is easy to cultivate: (frequently asked in parentheses) Fengyulan > Zhu Dinghong (expensive. ) = freesia (lodging) = Portuguese (hair) = saffron (degeneration) > lily (rotten ball) > daffodils (rotten ball degeneration and slow growth) > hyacinth (rotten ball degenerated) > tulip (rotten ball once) > buttercup (one word rotten) > anemone (rotten from the beginning). There are too many varieties of sorrel, some are as good as grass. Some are divine difficult to raise big rock tree and cyclamen as herbs are better, not included in the ranking, the popularity of Iris bulb is not high, and not included in the visible, lilies are not only suitable for cut flowers in florists, but also as family potted plants. Courtyard perennials are very good hybrids. In fact, most of the parents are from China, are authentic Chinese flowers, and are very adapted to our climate (except Dongbai from Japan). Variety selection easy-to-raise order LA > Abel (A) > Tiehan (L) = LO > OT > Dongbai (O) LA is the improvement of Yabai, giving birth faster, big flower LO can be considered as the improvement of Ironball, the flower color is richer, the aroma is heavier, OT improves Dongbai's heat tolerance, reproduction rate and ease of maintenance aroma Dongbai = OT > Iron cannon = LO > > LA Abel = 0 the last two kinds of Yabai basically have no fragrance, and the flower friends who hate lily aroma are light sweet fragrance. The night is thicker. The first two kinds of strong fragrance, Dongbai is florist lily, OT is sweet and some choking, LO is a mixture of iron cannon and Dongbai, the aroma is very weak in hot weather. 1. The lily usually has the heaviest fragrance 1-2 days after blooming, and then gradually fades. It is normal that the lily is not very fragrant at first. The flower scent of lilies is not harmful to the human body, nor will it cause allergies, but if the aroma is too strong, it may stimulate the olfactory nerves of sensitive people and cause dizziness, excitement, sleeplessness and other symptoms. Lily pollen is easy to stain clothing and skin, do not rinse with water, it will stick more firmly, should be glued with transparent tape. Even if cutting off stamens is a good way to mainstream hybrid classification, and its detailed advantages and disadvantages 1. Asian lily (Asiatic) has many advantages: many flowers, high and low plants, many buds, upward flowering, early flowering (2-3 months from the next plant), easy breeding, fast reproduction, extremely cold tolerance (overwintering in open land in the northeast). Disadvantages: small flowers (12-15cm), no aroma, high light requirements in bud period, lack of light and easy bud extinction represent varieties: many, most can rest assured to choose There is also the pot effect of plant height of about 20-30cm in the field of pot planting in spring, the pot diameter is 15cm, the right side is the result of dwarf treatment, and the leftmost is the original plant height, the actual plant height is less than the nominal plant height (110cm), which is the height Springfield after two to three years of cultivation.

Tinos

two。 Oriental lily (Oriental), commonly known as perfume lily together with OT, florist cut flower advantages: large fragrant flowers (15-20cm), low lighting requirements, flat flowers, broad leaves, flowers floral and gorgeous shortcomings: some varieties are thin and easy to fall, not very heat-resistant, slow reproduction, late flowering, heavy yellowing feet represent varieties: Sorbonne Sorbonne (light pink flower of the florist) Siberian Siberia (florist white flowers) potted Dongbai effect (famous variety Stargazer), very beautiful, notice that the leaves are less and thicker than Yabai.

Sorbonne Sorbonne

3. Musk / iron cannon lily (Longiflorum), also known as Easter lily: beautiful and elegant flower shape, easy to raise, moisture-resistant, fast reproduction, poor cold resistance, subtropical origin, no need for low-temperature dormancy disadvantages: only white (all pink and yellow lines are LO hybrids, this year's online stores are wrong), pollen is easy to defile petal representative varieties: have heard of the famous White Paradise White Heaven bar

4.LO hybrid-recommended advantages: inherit the flower type and ease of cultivation of iron cannon, flower color and aroma of Dongbai, very good breeding and easy reproduction, large flowers (18-25cm), rapid development, no need for low temperature dormancy disadvantages: at high temperature, the single florescence is not long, the bud is less, the color becomes dim when the light is insufficient, and the domestic varieties are less representative: Trianfield Triumphator is its outstanding representative, especially recommended. One of the lilies that any novice can feed (often sold out. ) small special pot effect, pay attention to it is relatively high, large flowers

The flower color is very strong in strong light and low temperature.

5.OT hybrid-recommended advantages: inherited the excellent genes of trumpet lily (Trumpet, the parent is Sichuan Minjiang lily, etc.), the flower color is richer than Dongbai, heat-resistant and easy to raise, strong plants, no need for low-temperature dormancy. The stem is very thick, the flower is big (20-25cm), the fragrance is rich, suits the courtyard and the big container, abroad commonly known as Tree lily (tree lily) shortcoming: the first year often does not have many flowers, some varieties flowers are deformed, the flowers are easy to droop on behalf of the varieties: Conca D'or, Yelloween, Nymph, wide color coverage, especially the yellow series that Dongbai does not have: yellow varieties have a small number of flower bracts except Yelin. The 16-18cm ball also has only two or three bud perennial wooden doors (Congardeo). Pay attention to height and flower number.

Yerolin, with large flowers and rich fruit sweetness

6.LA hybrids-recommended advantages: breeding more crazy than Abel, large flowers, some varieties with light fragrance, this kind of like crazy ball, not so easy to eliminate bud shortcomings: the same flower type is stiff, flowers are easy to deform, the number of flowers is less than 100 on behalf of varieties: red Alert (Red Alert), Diamond Party (Diamond Party), etc., basically can be selected at will, there is no taboo red alert pot effect Compared with Yabai, the flowers are larger and the leaves are wider, the flower pattern of the iron cannon is not inherited, and the aroma is occasional.

Red alert.

7. The most common edible lily is the Chinese native species Lilium lancifolium, whose plant is tall and slender, petals curled and easy to raise, but not suitable for indoor ornamental value may not be as good as that of Dutch hybrids. It is one of the parents of Asian lilies. The inverted drooping flowers are sometimes used by profiteers to pass for perfume lilies.

8. Double lilies are divided into Yabai and Dongbai, with the same characteristics and maintenance as above, which are more like double Zhu, but the characteristics of lilies are not strong, easy to deformity and incomplete petalization.

three。 Indoor maintenance 1. The light is not very fastidious, the closed balcony can also be planted, there is no problem on both sides of the east and west for at least 3 hours, 4-6 hours in the west sun may burn Dongbai leaves, should be moderate protection to pay attention to Yabai's bud such as peanuts must not be short of light, otherwise the bud 2. Soil quality, this is the most important, permeable and breathable is the first essence. I use peat perlite, but in fact, the material is not limited, as long as it is soft and light. Prevent rotten peat (peat, sterilized nutrient soil, compost soil, coconut bran): perlite (or various granular plants) = 2:1 to 1:1 more perlite can be added to the soil near the bulb. in this way, you can rest assured that the soil can be evenly mixed with slow-release fertilizer / organic fertilizer, and don't pile it all at the bottom of the ball. It is easy to rot the ball if it is not absorbed. With the exception of Dongbai, the other varieties are very resistant to drought (especially when planted on the ground), so it is better to lack than to flood, and so the basin soil becomes lighter, or the topsoil is dry and then watered again. Each watering can depend on the weight of the pot. When it becomes light, the sign of watering too much is rotten ball, a large number of lower leaves turn yellow, the buds are scorched, and the top leaves are scorched. For one thing, we should be on guard against the situation of little watering. Both bulbs and fleshy stems can store water, so when you encounter wilting, you should first suspect rotten bulbs rather than lack of water. Fertilizer and bulbous lily like fertilizer, but should be applied thin and frequently, big fertilizer will burn leaves (leaf tip withered and scorched, flower bud withered). If one-time cultivation does not need to be fertilized every year, then post-anthesis fertilization is very important. Nitrogen and potassium fertilizer is the main nutrient absorption rate of lily: nitrogen: phosphorus: potassium = 10:1:12, but phosphate fertilizer is easy to be fixed and not easy to absorb. So if you use fertilizer at the rate of 1:1:1 or 1Ranger 1.5, you can remember to apply thin fertilizer frequently. With a little bit of watering each time, there is no need for thick fertilizer. It needs more fertilizer than other bulbs when they sprout. When they grow rapidly, they mainly apply nitrogen fertilizer, when they appear, they mainly apply phosphorus and potash fertilizer, and when they bloom, they do not apply fertilizer, and they begin to raise balls immediately after flowering. The proportion of fertilizer such as the soil of 5.pH Dongbai is slightly acidic (5. 5-6), and the peat itself is acidic enough for other varieties. In fact, temperature lilies are bulbs planted in spring, planted in spring, summer flowers, autumn and winter storage (for most parts of the country), for the hot and humid areas in summer, as well as Hong Kong and Taiwan, you can consider cold storage in summer, planting in autumn, and keeping the temperature at about 12 degrees Celsius when watching flowers take root in winter and spring, which is most conducive to stem rooting and growth. In summer, pay attention to protect against high temperature damage, low temperature can prolong florescence, among which OT is very heat-resistant so it can open against the scorching sun. The flowers of Dongbai often wither quickly when the sun is strongest. Dormancy in winter when the temperature is low (0-10 degrees), dormancy (leaves fall yellow, then cut off dead stems) general Abel and Dongbai need a cold period of at least 1.5-3 months (4-5 degrees) to start the next year to grow lilies with iron cannon (LO,LA,L) and trumpet (T) genes can be planted year-round, without deliberately creating a cold period. As long as the natural low temperature is lower than 20 degrees in winter, the varieties that are not heat-tolerant can be refrigerated at 4 degrees. The varieties that are not heat-tolerant may dormancy 1-2 months after flowering, but early dormancy is disadvantageous to raising bulbs and compound flowers. What's more, cutting off the stems and leaves as soon as they are finished blooming and dropping the leaves early often means rotten balls or serious adverse conditions 8. How to plant without soaking and disinfecting bath for the basal root (the old root at the bottom of the ball) as far as possible, the seriously rotten part can be cut off and the top of the lily ball should be at least a soil layer with 5cm on the soil surface. The distance between the ball and the ball is more than 2-3cm, and the bud head should be slightly inclined to the basin wall rather than to the center of the basin. The planting depth lily is a two-layer root system, and the one under the ball is the basal root (which can maintain the function for several years). The absorption function is weak, and the ball received is often rotten and dilapidated. There is no need to worry that several layers of thick and white roots will be produced at the base of the newly born bud, which is called stem rooting (annual). This is the main force that absorbs nutrients. Therefore, if you can't put the ball top on the soil surface, a moderate deep planting is beneficial to avoid heat injury and raise the ball, then the formula is drainage layer + 3-5cm subsoil + ball + 5-10cm cover soil, is it very simple, basin height at least 15cm fixed root water, and then patiently wait, do not dig around, buds break the soil and then enter the normal management as shown in the figure.

Here is a new novice planting method, "adding soil step by step-- different from the old method of adding soil once." I forgot to mention that when planting lilies for the first time, you can only let the soil cover the lily ball, and then do not cover it first, leaving only 8-10cm space above the soil surface to continue adding soil. Pour water thoroughly, wait for the bud to drill out from the top of the ball, and then gradually add soil to the normal depth (the top of the ball to the soil surface 5-10cm) the advantage is to meet everyone's curiosity and eagerness, avoid fear of the ball not germinating, want to dig but do not dare to dig the entanglement, at the same time, you can adjust the direction of the bud when the bud grows, so that the bud drills from the depths of the soil in a crooked direction, and it is better to be watered through for the first time. (for reference only, this method will not interfere with stem rooting and growth) 10. After anthesis and dormancy, you can reduce the vase, usually wither for 5-7 days, or you can watch it directly. The cut length should not exceed 1max 3 of the plant height (at least leave 2cm 3, the more you leave, the better, otherwise what to raise the ball). Stamens can be cut off to prevent defiling the petals and remove the remnants after flowers to prevent seed formation as far as possible not to be forced dormancy. In this way, obedience to the lily's own will can best achieve a good compound flower effect and reproduction coefficient. Keep it in the original basin during the dormant period, almost without watering, give some water every month to keep the peat slightly moist, you can dig balls into the refrigerator in spring in the hot areas in summer, plant Yabai in autumn, and the iron cannon will sprout when the temperature rises from February to March in the eastern hundred years, or it may sprout in autumn and let it grow and bloom naturally. Courtyard cultivation this is a very simple planting depth of 15cm-20cm in the north, shallow planting in the south, shallow planting in the south, planting OT,LO,LA in all parts of China except south and northeast China, planting pure iron cannon in the south of Liaoning and planting in the south of the Yellow River, where the land can be planted very cold but not covered with snow, 5cm can be covered with branches, straw, compost and so on. If there is snow, don't be afraid of frostbite and cold resistance A > LA > > LO = OT > O > > L the cold in late spring may hurt the newly budded lilies, need some cover and protection, pay attention to deep ploughing, ridging the clayey soil, adding more organic matter to facilitate drainage (the key point), and occasionally watering them in dry and hot summer. Propagation methods of lilies 1. When the main ball grows to a certain size, the bud will naturally split into two or more conjoined balls (basically the size of flowering). This process begins after flowering and takes place every year. It is the simplest way to breed, that is, the speed of reproduction mentioned in the introduction of varieties, that is, the speed of L=LA=A > LO=OT > > O Dongbai may be divided every year, maybe not, and related to cultivation and maintenance, the first five kinds of balls are very diligent when the number of balls is too large. When the buds are crowded, they can be broken with their hands when they are dormant in winter. Abel, which will not hurt the ball, is likely to send multiple buds in the first year. This kind of ball often blossoms badly, but several buds are divided into two in a year. In the middle is the residue of the old stem of that year.

two。 The stem bulb is actually a small ball produced on the root of the stem, and the quantity and quality are closely related to the quality of the stem rooting. the quality of cultivation in that year has a lot to do with the flowering size and development of the bulb after 1-3 years, which is equivalent to the second growth stage of the bulb (basal leaf-stem-flower). LA,LO is also a leader in this kind of propagation, especially LA. In the first year, the cauline bulb is likely to reach the size of the flowering bulb. Here is the bulb around the root of the stem.

3. Asian lilies with bulbs, called bulbs, often take root and fall off in the soil when they mature, and grow only a grass-like leaf in the first year, dormant in winter, and then dormancy in the second year. In the third year, the scape blossoms slowly, but the number is purple and black after maturity.

4. Scales are very similar to the reproduction of red cuttings. Healthy scales (or scales that fall off accidentally) are removed and placed obliquely in sterilized and moist peat or vermiculite. After a month, small bulbs can grow and can be planted separately. The reproduction coefficient is large, but the slow development process is the same as the bulb.

5. Seeds-not recommended by enthusiasts. Except for native species such as iron cannon and Minjiang River, most hybrids either have empty shells or grow slowly, and the offspring of self-crossing will mutate 6. 5%. Cutting-not recommended for Taiwan lily (Lilium formosanum) hybrid, can root LO and LA if the cut flower stem moisturizing, can grow small beads, can separate planting, but the stem itself is difficult to root is basically useless to Dongbai, so the flower shop cut lily is a uniaxial monocotyledon, once the terminal bud is damaged, the reproductive growth (flowering) of the year stops, so never try to top, cuttage six. FAQ basic florist's questions all focus on the first two items. Bulb rot-controlling watering, dry rather than wet caused by fungi, stagnant water is the main cause, it is often too late to find, if the bulb disk intact can peel off rotten scales, disinfection and storage symptoms are changeable, leaf margin yellowing, foot leaves fall off, plant wilting and watering is not relieved, OT, LO, LA and other flower buds blackening, growth stagnation and so on, are very likely to be rotten bulbs 2. Buds are common in Yabai because of lack of light (continuous rain, put indoors). The phenomenon is that the small bud changes from green to brown, and then scorched, so it will not blossom that year and continue to cultivate the ball well. The main reason for the disappearance of lilies of non-Asian blood is rotten balls. 3. The leaves burn thick fertilizer, and the immature fertilizer may harm the root system, making the leaves seriously scorched and the bud withered. Wash the basin soil with heavy water and change the soil if necessary. Dongbai is easier to burn leaves. Pay attention to the chloride ion in watering and fertilization. fluorine ion should be less (more phosphate fertilizer such as superphosphate, use with caution) 4. Break the same bud treatment, continue to raise the ball, the lily will not send lateral branches, terminal bud break means that the year did not open 5. 5%. The common fault of yellowing and shedding lilies in foot leaves, especially in Dongbai and some sub-lilies, is not obvious in LA,LO,OT. If it is not serious, it basically does not affect ornamental, it can be used as a reflection of plant health. Insect pests are rare, occasionally attacked by shell beetles, Japanese beetles, aphids and so on. Snails may nibble on flower buds and pay attention to protection when planting on the ground. Botrytis cinerea is common in greenhouses with high humidity, and when it is hot and rainy, mildew-like spots appear on the leaves, which can be eliminated by spraying fungicides. Off-season germination for particularly strong varieties such as iron cannon, it is possible to sprout new buds as they approach dormancy in winter, allowing it to grow by 8. 5%. Do not germinate this is the novice most afraid of the situation, fortunately, if not because of rotten ball, rotten bud, this kind of situation is very rare, often the cold period of planting ball is not enough to break dormancy, this situation can be dealt with in the refrigerator, there are signs of germination and then sow 9. Abnormal buds and double flowers often appear in cold-treated autumn bulbs, which are related to the long cold treatment time and generally do not affect planting seven. Select and store the annual suppliers will have spring balls and autumn balls, spring is a good season to buy lilies, and now every place is booking. The bulbs bought from February to April are often fresh bulbs with very short buds or no buds. Autumn will provide cold treatment (breaking dormancy for autumn flowering) and pre-rooting (providing suitable temperature for stem rooting and growth in summer). The delivery period is August-September, and there are fewer varieties. It is recommended to plant indoors in the north and in Liangguang area. The outdoor species in the north are often dried by the north wind before flowering. When the balls are received, the buds are already long and easy to break. Do not rough the lily balls and are not resistant to storage, because there is no protective skin in the outer layer. Once dehydrated, it can be left in the original basin when dormant in winter. Watering the soil once a month to keep the soil slightly wet can be done by filling a plastic bag with wet peat, burying the stems and putting them in the freezer (not freezing! Save, wait for breaking dormancy and sprouting, take out and plant eight. Other basins: the larger the basin, the deeper the better, as long as the drainage is smooth, for the family 14-16cm ball, the 18cm basin can grow three 16-18cm balls, the 20cm basin can grow three balls, or you can use the 15cm-18cm basin alone, this is the bottom line of the basin, you can increase the diameter of the basin as appropriate, do not use the shallow basin, the size of the ball mentioned above: the ball of 14-16cm is mainly LQuery Apen LA. LO varieties Dongbai and OT generally need to buy 16-18cm bulb number to ensure that the bulb perimeter has a great relationship with the number of flowers. Generally, 12-14cm begins to have flowers, 18-20cm is exhibition grade, iron cannon line, OT line can grow to the perimeter 25cm plant height: when you just raise lilies, you look at the data 90100110120 and even 130cm thinks it's scary, but the plant height of mature plants that can only be achieved by planting in the ground for about two years is far below the data value. Moreover, the stems of modern hybrids are so stout that they will not be lodged and broken even if they have many flowers (the potted plants in the first year are about 1x2 to 2canth3 of standard height). In theory, moderate high temperature shortens plant height, blossoms ahead of time, weak light and low temperature make stems elongate, flowering is delayed by Yabai from subplanting to flowering for 70-90 days, Dongbai 90-120 days, and the order of other varieties is early A.