Breeding course of ornamental turtles

Many people have the experience of raising turtles, but more than half of them are either dead or given away or released, which is not good for the environment and turtles, so I hope to think twice before buying turtles and raising them home. since we have raised turtles, we have to have the plan of "nursing the end", so as not to harm the tortoises and fill the pockets of businessmen, today we will introduce the breeding course of ornamental turtles.

How to buy ornamental turtles before breeding?

1. Observe the turtles you want to buy carefully! Does it show the natural movement of escape (as long as it is allowed to escape in the basin)? When a person approaches the basin, does it try to dive and escape? Turtles that have difficulty in swimming or diving, nostrils clogged or eyes swollen and unable to open are at the end of their lives. You must not buy them.

2. Most of the healthy tortoise shells are not injured, that is to say, the shape of the shell is uniform and normal, and there is no lack of links. If you feel that the tortoise shell is "soft" when touching, you will suffer from osteomalacia. Although this defect can be remedied to a limited extent, it carries an uneven carapace for life.

3. Ask the turtle seller to feed them some fodder, and pay attention to which one or which one goes to eat first, which can also be used to judge their health. It is better to be careful with turtles that refuse to eat feed, because they are either sick or have not yet adapted to the new feed.

4. If you still like your favorite turtles, you should also consider that these cute little guys will not always be little ones, and they will need more space in the future. If the conditions are better, they will grow very fast, so you must prepare enough space for them to breed.

What are the species classification of ornamental turtles?

1. According to their living environment, ornamental turtles can be divided into five types: terrestrial turtles, aquatic turtles, semi-aquatic turtles, marine turtles and benthic turtles. The external morphological structures of different species of turtles correspond to their living environment, for example, aquatic turtles have rich flippers between their toes and fingers to adapt to life in deep water, while terrestrial turtles have stout cylindrical limbs to adapt to crawling in swamps and land. Sea turtles living in the sea have paddle-shaped limbs and a pair of salt glands to secrete excess salt from the body.

2. According to their food characteristics, ornamental turtles can be divided into animal turtles, plant turtles and omnivorous turtles. The eating habits of aquatic turtles are generally omnivorous, such as turtles, yellow-throated turtles, etc.; most semi-aquatic turtles are animal, such as flat-chested turtles, three-line closed-shell turtles, gold-headed closed-shell turtles, while yellow-edge box turtles and yellow-frontal box turtles are omnivorous. Most terrestrial turtles are botanical, such as Burmese tortoises, four-clawed tortoises and so on. Some turtles have a strong ability to endure hunger and thirst, but it is not easy to die without eating for several years.

What are the requirements of the breeding environment for ornamental turtles?

1. Feed requirements for ornamental turtles

Most of the ornamental turtles are omnivorous, but they tend to eat animal bait. Under the condition of artificial feeding, the viscera of animals such as poultry and pigs and maggots and bread worms are the main. Properly match melons, fruits, vegetables and mixed feed to enhance the nutrients in the body. Vitamin E powder and antibiotics are added in spring and autumn to improve the number of eggs and enhance the physique of turtles. Regular, fixed-point and fixed quality should be achieved in daily feeding. The feeding time is generally 10: 14 in spring and autumn, and 7-9 or 18-19:00 in summer. When the temperature is too high or too low, there is a phenomenon of eating less or not eating. The location of feeding should be fixed, so that it is easy to observe the eating and activity of turtles. When the feeding family is put into operation, healthy turtles can climb to the table to look for food. Those turtles that are slow to respond or do not eat should be observed, and the serious ones should be kept separately. Feed must be fresh, no smell, scraps should be washed first, and then remove excess tendons, skin and other things, so as to avoid indigestion.

The feed for ornamental turtles can be fed with animal baits such as fish, pork, animal viscera, provocation, snails and blood worms (Chironomus larvae), red filariasis (water earthworms), yellow powder worms (bread worms) and maggots, as well as plant baits such as vegetable leaves, rice, melons and fruits.

2. Water quality requirements of ornamental turtles

Although ornamental turtles are relatively easy to raise and the least fastidious aquarium animals, there is a disadvantage: they are excreted too quickly, coupled with high temperature, the remaining feed is easy to rot, so the water always stinks. Only two days after changing the water, it turned into a pool of muddy soup, and even the Brazilian turtles could hardly be seen. This is because of the breeding of unicellular algae, the water is abundant, the temperature is right, and the green algae breeds very fast.

The easiest way is to change the water completely and drain, pump and pour out the old dirty water four hours after feeding. Then wash the walls and bottom of the container with a medium-hard brush and clean water. when cleaning, put the Brazilian turtle in a plastic basin or on the land by the pool, inject the water at the right temperature, and then put the tortoise back into the water.

Some species of swamp turtles or water turtles are not well adapted to a complete change of water, but the ornamental turtles soon become accustomed to this practice and the interference it brings. The complete change of water still has a disadvantage. Second, it will induce the colored turtles to expel the feces in their intestines and get the newly changed water dirty again, so it is best to check the culture tank (pond) shortly after the change of water and remove the feces.

3. The demand for light

Many turtles need to bask in the sun, just as ornamental turtles released in some pools can be seen stretching out their heads and legs and closing their eyes in the hot sun. Basking in the sun can kill some bacteria on the turtle shell, prevent the shell from being soft and brittle, and keep warm. These functions mainly require ultraviolet rays, and ultraviolet green in sunlight is very important for turtles. Therefore, when you want to let the tortoise enjoy the warm sun, do not just let it stay in the water, but also try not to block the glass, because UV green is easy to block. If you are afraid of drying up and forgetting to take it back for too long, you can set up a half-water place so that they can be completely exposed to the sun or soaked in water. It is best to let it bask in the sun for one to two hours a day, and wash the turtle's back regularly with a soft toothbrush to remove parasites.