How do turtle eggs hatch?
Turtles don't hatch eggs! After the wild turtle has finished laying eggs, the eggs are buried in the sand. Under the right temperature conditions, the turtle eggs can hatch into young turtles by themselves. How can farmed turtle eggs hatch? The following editor will introduce how the tortoise eggs hatch artificially.
The making of incubator
To put it simply, an incubator is a box used to hatch turtle eggs, setting the location and number of vents.
1. Be sure to find a box with a lid. Only a box with a lid can maintain the humidity in the incubator, and it is better to have a transparent box with a transparent lid. You can see why it should be transparent in the back.
2. Punch a small hole, that is, a vent, on each of the four corners of the lid with an electric soldering iron, so that the hatching box is ready. Keep in mind that the more air holes you punch, the worse the humidity will be maintained.
All right, the incubator of the tortoise eggs is almost complete. Let's take a look at the incubation materials of the turtle eggs.
Hatching material for turtle eggs
1. Hatching materials: there are many kinds of hatching materials for turtle eggs, some useful soil, some useful sand, but in terms of humidity maintenance, vermiculite is the best choice, no matter whether the particles are big, small, dark or light, the effect of vermiculite is always the same.
2. Cleaning and disinfection: wash the hatching material in water until the washed water is clear, put it in the microwave oven and turn it for 3-5 minutes, so as to eliminate the bacteria in vermiculite. Then soak vermiculite in pure water for about 30 minutes (be sure to use pure water or cold boiled water to avoid bacteria in the water).
3. Moisture control: hold vermiculite by hand to squeeze out the water, that is, squeeze out the excess water until the vermiculite is not wet, and the vermiculite can be pinched into a mass without dispersing. This step is very important. If the moisture is not enough, the moisturizing time is short and too wet, which will cause the embryo to grow too fast in the environment of high temperature and humidity, the embryo development is too large, the air in the egg is filled, and the embryo is suffocated in the egg. The death of fertilized eggs in the later stage of hatching is basically caused by this reason, so that the hatching material is ready.
Arrangement of incubator
1. The thickness of vermiculite: put the vermiculite squeezed out of water into a prepared incubator. The thickness is about 1max 2 to 2max 3, which is about the height of the box. So there is still 1max 3 for laying eggs. If converted in centimeters, 8-10cm is almost enough, and there is no need to be very thick, because the method introduced here is to heat the bottom, if it is too thick, the temperature is difficult to control, and the incubation material is actually used to maintain humidity. When hatching snakes, only spray paper towels are placed at the bottom. If the temperature is maintained well, the larvae can also hatch.
2, the placement of the thermometer: the placement of the thermometer is very simple, lie flat on the hatching material and put it to one side.
3. The placement of eggs
① will mark the eggs laid, that is, which side is facing up and which side is marked with a marker pen, so that the egg can be restored to its original position without affecting embryonic development after a slight rotation during the development of the egg and an accidental turn.
② will move the egg out, put it in the incubator, put it on top of the vermiculite and stabilize it. You can also bury 1 hammer 3 to stabilize the egg.
Finally, close the lid and a professional incubator is completed.
Management of incubation period
1. Ways to increase humidity: there are two ways to increase humidity. The first is to add water to vermiculite, and the second is to replace all vermiculite.
① vermiculite with water: after 60 days of incubation, the humidity has almost evaporated, and there are two ways to add water to vermiculite. One is to use a syringe to inhale pure water and pump the water into the vermiculite around the egg. Second, after covering the egg with a cover, spray vermiculite with a spray can and be sure to use pure water.
② replace vermiculite: to replace all vermiculite is to get a new incubator and move the egg into the new incubator.
Calculation of the shelling time: according to the temperature, the shelling time can be inferred, and generally, water droplets will appear before the eggs come out of the shell. At this time, you should often open the incubator and take it out as long as the larvae come out. So as not to prevent the larvae from crawling in the incubator and turning to other eggs.
Difficult to lay eggs: eggs will also have dystocia and abnormal fetal position. If the tail or foot is exposed to the eggshell, you must pick the egg to help the larva get out of the shell smoothly. If the head is exposed for 2-3 hours and still does not climb out of the shell, you must pull out the shell. Otherwise, after the amniotic fluid is dried, the eggshell will harden and the baby will get stuck in it.
Feeding and management of larvae
1. Because the humidity of the newly hatched larva is relatively high in the incubator, once it comes out of the shell, it must create an environment with relatively high humidity, and then slowly wait for the humidity to volatilize away, and cannot be put directly into a relatively dry environment, otherwise the larvae will not adapt.
2. Generally, the larvae can not be fed until 3 days after coming out of the shell.
Related
- On the eggshell is a badge full of pride. British Poultry Egg Market and Consumer observation
- British study: 72% of Britons are willing to buy native eggs raised by insects
- Guidelines for friendly egg production revised the increase of space in chicken sheds can not be forced to change feathers and lay eggs.
- Risk of delay in customs clearance Australia suspends lobster exports to China
- Pig semen-the Vector of virus Transmission (4)
- Pig semen-the Vector of virus Transmission (3)
- Five common causes of difficult control of classical swine fever in clinic and their countermeasures
- Foot-and-mouth disease is the most effective way to prevent it!
- PED is the number one killer of piglets and has to be guarded against in autumn and winter.
- What is "yellow fat pig"? Have you ever heard the pig collector talk about "yellow fat pig"?