When will peanuts be planted? Planting time and key points of cultivation and Management of Peanut

Peanut is a kind of nut which is rich in production and widely eaten in China, also known as peanut, evergreen fruit, muddy bean, adzuki bean, etc., is an annual herb of the genus Peanut of Rosaceae, and its producing area is mainly distributed in Brazil, China, Egypt and other places. It is suitable to be planted in sandy soil areas with warm climate and moderate rainfall, and the growing season is longer. Let's take a look at the planting time of peanuts.

Planting time of peanut

The suitable sowing time for spring and autumn double cropping peanut areas in South China is from February to mid-March, the suitable sowing time for spring and summer peanut intercropping areas in the Yangtze River Basin is from March to late April, and the suitable sowing time for large peanut areas and peanut producing areas in the north is from late April to early May. When peanuts are sown, the soil temperature 10 cm deep can be sown when the soil temperature is stable above 15 degrees for 5 days. Remember that do not sow when the temperature is below 11 degrees, so as to prevent the phenomenon of rotten seeds and dead seedlings. Even if peanuts can be unearthed, peanut seedlings are not strong enough to affect yield. Summer peanut planting areas can choose interplanting, sowing in advance to increase yield.

Sowing method of Peanut

1. Sowing method: according to the cultivation method, peanut sowing method is divided into manual sowing and mechanical sowing according to the operation mode.

2. Sowing density: the planting density of peanut is determined by plant height, fruiting range and leaf area, and the suitable planting density depends on climate characteristics, soil fertility, selection of varieties and cultivation conditions.

3. Sowing depth: in general, it is appropriate to sow peanuts at about 5 cm. It is necessary to grasp the principle of "dry is not deep, wet is not shallow" and the soil should be shallow, sandy land or sandy land should be deep. The deepest cultivation in open field should not exceed 7 cm, and the shallowest should not be less than 3 cm.

4. Post-sowing suppression: post-sowing suppression is a successful experience of drought-resistant sowing of peanut to ensure the whole seedling. Suppression can not only reduce soil water evaporation, but also make seeds in close contact with soil, promote the rise of soil moisture and prevent seeds from drying. It is easy for seeds to germinate and emerge.

Planting techniques of Peanut

1. Leveling the land: peanuts are cash crops that blossom on the ground, form fruit needles and drill into the ground to bear fruit. Suitable for planting on loose sandy soil and oil sandy soil. The plots for growing peanuts should be deeply ploughed, and 3040 tons of high-quality farm manure should be applied per hectare combined with ploughing, and suppressed once and twice. Where there are conditions, water can be irrigated first, and then agricultural fertilizer and chemical fertilizer can be mixed into ridges and furrows, ridging and suppression, so as to prepare for sowing at the right time.

2. Cultivated varieties: peanuts should have high yield, and improved varieties are the foundation. Peanut varieties suitable for planting mainly include Fuhua series varieties and Jifu series varieties (commonly known as Sijiehong). The growth period is about 110-120 days. Choose pods with large and full fruit, neat shape and no broken pods as seeds. The seeds should be dried for 1-3 days before shelling, and the seeds with pure color and neat shape should be selected for seed selection after peeling.

3. Scientific fertilization: peanuts are relatively resistant to barren, and fertilization should be based on base fertilizer, 30 tons of farm manure per hectare, phosphate fertilizer and 300 kg 400 jin of diammonium phosphate per hectare. Grow peanuts in barren land and apply 200 kg 300 jin more urea per hectare.

4. Replenishing inter-seedling seedlings: peanuts should investigate the seedling situation as soon as possible from late May to early June, and replenish seedlings as soon as possible in the fields with obvious lack of seedlings. The method of accelerating budding and sitting water seeds can be used to complete the work of interseedling and seedling fixing.

5. Qinggu squatting seedlings: when peanuts come out, dig a circle of soil around the seedlings 2 cm away with a small hand pickaxe, and then gently pick the two cotyledons out of the ground. Qinggu squatting seedlings are usually carried out three days after the first shovel.

6. Shovel in time: shovel the peanut seedlings after they are unearthed, do it three days after the shovel, shovel twice after 15-20 days, pay attention to the cultivation of the soil, do not press the seedlings, shovel three times at the end of the peak flowering period, cross the square ridges when sealing the ridges, and insert them into the soil with fruit needles. at the same time, we should pay attention to pulling weeds.

7. Reasonable topdressing: during the pod-bearing and full-fruiting period, peanuts can be foliar sprayed with fertilizers such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate (0.3%) and plant growth regulators such as Lvfeng 95 to promote grain formation.

8. Suitable harvest: when peanut leaves turn yellow and some stems and leaves wither, they can be harvested, usually in the middle of September. After harvest, it is necessary to dry and rain, promote post-ripening and improve seed maturity. Peanuts should be harvested and dried before frost.

All right, the planting time and planting techniques of peanuts are introduced here. Let's take a look at peanut pest control techniques again.

Stem rot

[symptoms] at seedling stage, the cotyledons were black-brown, dry and rotten, and then spread along the petiole to the base of the stem to form a yellowish-brown water-immersed disease spot, and finally became black-brown rot, and then became dark brown at the base of the stem or main and lateral branches, and then became dark brown. The aboveground wilted and withered. The occurrence of peanut stem rot is serious, the affected area is about 80%, the general incidence rate is 60% 70%, the seriously diseased fungus mass is as high as 80% 90%, and some seriously diseased plants have withered and died.

[control] before sowing, sow seeds with 50% carbendazim wettable powder (0.3-0.5% of the seed amount), or use 50% carbendazim wettable powder 0.5 kg plus water 50 kg 60 kg cold soaked seeds 100 kg, soak seeds for 24 hours, the control effect is significant. In the early stage of the disease, choose 50% carbendazim wettable powder or 65% Dysen zinc wettable powder 500 times 600 times liquid, 70% methyl topiramate wettable powder 800 times liquid spray, spray once every 7 days, 2 times 3 times.

Root rot disease

[symptoms] the disease can occur in the whole growth period of peanut. The susceptible plant is short, the leaves turn yellow, dry and fall off in turn from bottom to top, and the bark of the main root turns black and rotten until the whole plant dies. The disease is mainly spread by Rain Water and in the field. The disease can be easily caused by stagnant water in the field at seedling stage, low ground temperature or sowing too early and too deep.

[prevention and control] ① land preparation and soil improvement, increase application of rotten organic fertilizer, waterlogging and drainage, and strengthen field management. ② was mixed with 50% carbendazim wettable powder according to 0.3% of the seed amount, and the whole field was sprayed with 50% carbendazim 1000 times liquid at the initial stage of the disease.

Leaf spot disease

[symptoms] Brown spot is round, dark brown, large, yellow halo on the outer edge of the spot, gray mildew in the later stage, black spot round, dark brown, no yellow halo around the spot, and the spot is smaller than that of brown spot.

[control] at the initial stage of the disease, when the rate of diseased leaves in the field reaches 10: 15%, the first spraying should be started. 50% carbendazim wettable powder 1500 times, or 50% methyl thiophanate wettable powder 2000 times, or 80% mancozeb zinc 400 times, 75% chlorothalonil wettable stew 600 times 800 times, or Kangkuning 700 times. Or Baume 0.3-0.5 degree stone-sulfur mixture, etc., and then spray every 10-15 days, even 2-3 times, each time 50-75 kg per mu.

Peanut rust

[symptoms] the bottom leaf first began to occur, the leaf produced yellow blister spots, small, surrounded by a very narrow yellow halo, the epidermis cracked and scattered ferruginous powder, and when the leaf was serious, it yellowed and dried up and fell off.

[prevention and control] when the rate of diseased plants in the field reaches 10 / 20%, you can choose 50% colloidal sulfur 150 times, or sodium dichlorothalonil 600% 800 times, or 75% chlorothalonil 800 times, or 1 Bordeaux solution with 2 / 200 (copper sulfate: quicklime: water), or 25% vermicellin wettable powder 3000 / 5000 times, spraying 3 times every 10 days or so for 4 times. Rust sodium should not be used continuously, but should be used alternately with other agents, 60-75 kg per mu each time.

Peanut net spot

[symptoms] the natural disease in the field usually starts from the leaves at the bottom of the plant, and a small brown spot the size of a needle is produced on the front of the primary and right side, which gradually turns into a brown star-awned spot, and then expands into a reticulate, gray-green edge. With the gradual expansion of the disease spot, finally formed round, oval or irregular brown to chestnut brown spots, the edge of the disease spot green light brown, the boundary is not obvious, resulting in premature leaf shedding. The abaxial surface of the leaf was asymptomatic at the initial stage and showed light brown plaques with unclear edges in the later stage.

[control] when the rate of diseased plants in the field reaches more than 5%, the pathogen can choose 700 times solution of Kangkuning, 400 times solution of 80% mancozeb, 200 times liquid of "Nongkang 120" (0.5 kg per mu), 75100kg per mu, spraying once every 10 days and 4 times in succession.

Peanut bacterial wilt

[symptoms] peanuts are generally the most susceptible to the disease at the early flowering stage. At the beginning of the diseased plant, the first and second leaves of the tip of the main stem first lost water and wilted, delayed opening in the morning and closed in the afternoon. After 1 or 2 days, the whole plant or one side of the leaves of the diseased plant withered sharply from top to bottom, the color was dim, and the diseased leaves turned brown and scorched in the later stage. The diseased plant is easy to pull up, and its main root tip, fruit stalk and pod are dark brown and wet rotten, and the root nodule is dark green. The vascular bundle of the longitudinal section of the diseased stem was dark brown, and the white mucus could be seen by slightly extruding under the moisturizing of the cross section.

[prevention and treatment] before sowing, the seeds were soaked in 1000 times 32 g bacterial solution for 8 hours for disinfection and sterilization. At the initial stage of the disease, agricultural streptomycin or neophytomycin was sprayed at the initial stage of the disease, or 1500 to 2000 times agricultural streptomycin or 32% gram bacterial solution was sprayed once every 7 days for 4 times. In addition, Baode biological foliar fertilizer can be sprayed at the early flowering stage to promote the beneficial microbial activity of the root system and also play a certain role in inhibiting the development of bacteria.

Black mildew

[symptoms] Black mildew mainly occurred in the early stage of peanut growth. The pathogen first infected cotyledons to blacken and rot, and then infected the roots and stems of seedlings. When the disease was wet, a lot of mildew covered the base of the stem, and the stems and leaves withered and withered.

[prevention and control] Land preparation and soil improvement, increase the application of rotten organic fertilizer, waterlogging and drainage, and strengthen field management. Mix seeds with 50% carbendazim wettable powder according to 0.3% of the seed amount.

White silk disease

[symptoms] after the peanut root, pod and stem base were infected, they initially showed brown soft rot, white silky hyphae in the aboveground rhizome (so called white silk disease), and rapeseed sclerotia, stems and leaves turned yellow, gradually withered, peanut pods rotted. The pathogen began to germinate under the condition of high temperature and humidity, infecting peanut, sandy soil, continuous cropping, excessive density and poor ventilation, and occurred seriously in overcast and rainy days.

[control] Peanut sowing period applied 1 kg of pentachloronitrobenzene to fine wet soil 20 kg per mu, covered the seeds in the sowing ditch, and paid attention to the use of Shennongdan, line phosphorus and other agents to prevent underground pests. Peanut pods were sprayed with 1000-fold triadimefon EC or 1000-fold triadimefon EC at the initial stage of pod formation, and triadimefon, carbendazim and other agents could also be used to irrigate roots during the disease period, and the prevention effect was very obvious.

Peanut pest control

1. Reasonable rotation: the previous crop of peanut is corn, millet and other gramineous crops to avoid repeated cropping.

2. Deep turning in autumn: deep turning in autumn can turn the pests to the ground, make them die from exposure or be pecked by birds, and reduce the source of insects.

3. Seed coating: seed coating agent is used before sowing, this method can also effectively prevent rodent damage.

4. Soil treatment: during soil preparation before sowing, 3% carbofuran 22.5-30kg per hectare or 3% methyl-mixed phosphorus granules 22.5-30kg per hectare were evenly sprinkled on the field and turned into the soil shallowly, or carbofuran and methamidophos granules were scattered in the sowing ditch to sow seeds, and pesticides can also be mixed into organic fertilizer as base fertilizer.

6. Larval control: in late June and late July, in the peak incubation period and young stage of beetles, phoxim granules of 35kg / ha and 250kg / ha of fine soil were sprinkled on the rhizosphere of peanuts, and shallow hoes were used to dig into the soil. The root can also be irrigated with 1000 times of phoxim or 90% trichlorfon.

Planting techniques and key points of cultivation and management of tea oil tree

China is the origin of Camellia oleifera. Camellia oleifera, belonging to Theaceae, is the main and unique woody oil tree in China. Camellia oleifera has a long life and strong adaptability. It can grow in hills, mountains, ditches and roadsides, and does not compete with grain and cotton for land. Camellia oleifera can not only afforest barren hills and conserve soil and water, but also is an evergreen broad-leaved tree with thick leathery leaves and smooth trunk, so it is also an excellent tree species for fireproof forest belt.

Distribution and cultivation

The suitable cultivation area of Camellia oleifera refers to the suitable growing area of Camellia oleifera which aims at oil production. The distribution boundary of Camellia oleifera in China is 23 °30 °N from 31 °00 °N and 104 °30-# 39 °E from 39 °to 121 °25 °E. the main cultivated areas are 23 °~ 30 °N. In the distribution area, it belongs to the humid monsoon climate in the middle subtropics and is rich in hydrothermal conditions.

Features and characteristics

1. Morphological characteristics: Camellia oleifera is an evergreen small tree, up to 4mur6 meters high, short 2mur3meters. The flower is bisexual, sessile, blossoms in the middle and late October, and the fruit does not mature until October of the following year. Therefore, the flower and fruit of Camellia oleifera are both present at the same time.

2. Suitable conditions: Camellia oleifera prefers a warm and humid climate, requiring an annual average temperature of 14 ℃, a minimum monthly temperature of no less than 0 ℃, a maximum monthly average temperature of 31 ℃, a relative humidity of 74 ℃, an average annual rainfall of more than 1000 mm, and a uniform distribution of sunshine of 1800 ℃ for 2200 hours. The acid yellow soil with PH value of 5 Mel 6 is the most suitable for the soil with lax requirements, strong adaptability and barren soil. However, the loose, deep, well-drained and fertile sandy soil is especially beneficial to the growth and development of Camellia oleifera. Camellia oleifera, which grows in the sunny mountains to the south or southeast and southwest, has a stout trunk, an ovate crown, much fruit and high yield. Camellia oleifera is a deep-rooted tree species with well-developed main roots and more than 1.5 meters downward. Camellia oleifera has the characteristics of sprouting and tillering and strong regeneration ability. making use of this characteristic, we can renew and transform the old residual forest and nurture the forest with new branches after cutting.

3. Growth and development process.

① shoots: Camellia oleifera has spring shoots, summer shoots and autumn shoots. Most buds differentiate on spring shoots, which account for more than 98% of new shoots. Before the full fruit period, the spring shoot grows vigorously, and after the full fruit period, the spring shoot grows slowly.

② flowers: flower buds began to differentiate on spring shoots in April, the early flowering stage was in the early and middle of October, the flowering stage was in late October, and the last flowering stage was from late November to December. Each flower lasts about 6 days from blooming to withering. The stigma was normal on the 1st-2nd day of flowering and began to wither on the 3rd-4th day. The pollen on the stigma had the highest germination rate, the strongest vitality and the easiest fertilization on the 1st-2nd day. Camellia oleifera is generally pollinated by insect pollination, and the effect of cross-pollination, especially cross-pollination is good. The flowering period is warm and sunny, the insects are active, and the flowering fruit rate is high. The fruiting rate of self-pollination, initial flowering and late flowering was low. Therefore, soil wasps should be protected and released in the forest to improve pollination rate and seed setting.

③ root system: the root system began to move in the middle of February, the fastest growing period was from late March to mid-April, and the root system also grew fast and lasted for a long time from June to July. The root system grew very slowly from late December to early February of the following year.

Seedling cultivation

1. Seedling raising: the method of strip sowing is suitable. Seeds can be sown in winter and spring. Winter sowing is in November and spring sowing is from February to March. Winter sowing ditch width 10~12cm, furrow distance 18~21cm, deep 4~5cm, sowing amount 100,125kg per mu. The seeds should be selected and disinfected with water before sowing, covered with 3~4cm after sowing, and then covered with a thin layer of straw, which should be uncovered in late April. Available nitrogen fertilizer can be applied when the seedling height is about 10cm, and compound fertilizer can be applied when there are 3-5 true leaves. The seeds of container seedling method are directly sown in the nutritious soil of container bag after accelerating germination. Afforestation is not limited by season, high survival rate, rapid growth and development, so it is an efficient seedling raising method. For the seedlings propagated directly by Camellia oleifera seeds, the seedlings should not be used for afforestation because of the shortcomings of large differentiation of offspring, serious degradation of varieties, irregular forest phase, inconsistent ripening period of tea fruit, late fruit hanging time, late full fruit stage and so on.

2. Asexual breeding

① cutting seedling raising: the soil in the nursery used for cutting is divided into two layers, the surface layer is mixed with yellow core soil at 1:1 or 2:1 (the ratio depends on the viscosity of yellow soil), the thickness is 6: 10cm, the lower layer is fertile soil, the loose layer is about 10cm, and the pH value of cutting soil is less than 6. Cuttings should be taken from individual plants or fine clones of fine varieties, requiring annual Lignified spring shoots with sturdy and straight axillary buds and complete leaves. Put the cut branches in a cool place and spray water to moisturize and prevent the extrusion from getting hot. According to the length of internodes of branches, cut into long spikes or short spikes, and short spikes are better. The short spike has 1-2 leaves per panicle and has long 3~5cm. Cut (cut) ear strips with 1 bundle per 20 sticks, soak the cut in 200 mg / kg naphthalene acetic acid solution for 12 hours for 16 hours, there should be a shade shed after cutting, the temperature in the shed should not exceed 30 degrees Celsius, when it is too high, ventilation and cooling should be opened and watered frequently, and the survival rate is generally more than 80%. If the condition is good, the effect of cutting is better by using closed or automatic spraying device, but the survival rate of afforestation of Camellia oleifera seedlings is low because of its underdeveloped root system and poor drought resistance, so it should be used cautiously and cuttings should not be advocated.

② grafting seedling: mainly using bud seedling rootstock grafting, common Camellia oleifera seedlings as rootstock, sowing seeds 35 to 45 days before grafting, sowing seeds on sand bed or nutritious soil, about 3cm, slightly compacted after sand covering, sand thick 1Ocm, sand too thin seedling stem coming out of the ground early and fine aging, which is disadvantageous to grafting. The seedlings were grafted when they had 2 or 3 leaves after sand (soil). Bud seedling rootstock grafting is generally used by crackling method, and its procedure is as follows: first, take out and wash the bare root seedlings in the sand bed, cover with a wet cloth and put them on the indoor operating table (table) for backup. The second step is to cut off the 1~1.5cm above the bud with a blade (one-sided blade), then cut open from the center of the pulp in the middle of the rootstock, the opening is about 1cm, the radicle retains 5-6cm, and the excess part is removed. The third step is to cover the rootstock with a thin aluminum sheet (or toothpaste skin) that is slightly larger than the diameter of the rootstock. First, the thin aluminum sheet which is about 3cm in length and about 1cm in width is made into a cylinder (the diameter can be large or small), which is easy to cover the anvil. The fourth step is to cut the spike. On both sides of the lower end of the scion away from the petiole 1~2cm, each cut a 15-degree double oblique wedge about 1cm, and then cut off from 2 mm above the petiole to form a scion with one bud and one leaf. Put it in clean water for use. Finally, insert the cut scion into the cut of the rootstock, align the cortex on one side of the petiole, and gently lift the sleeve to make the rootstock close together. The planting depth is that the seed shell at the base has just entered the soil, the planting is compacted, the root is not left, it is moisturized by water after planting, and then planted in a 80% transparent and 20% moisturizing shed with sunshade net. The sealing material is generally made of plastic film, which is both transparent and moisturizing. The humidity in the cover is 85% 90%, the temperature is 25-28 ℃, and the temperature shall not exceed 33 ℃. If it is too high, the film will be properly opened, ventilated, cooled, watered and moisturized. When most scions sprout and open leaves (about one and a half months), the moisturizing cover can be removed and shaded until autumn, and then the management of sprouting, fertilization and weeding can be carried out in time according to the situation.

Land preparation and afforestation

1. Land preparation

Camellia oleifera is not strict on afforestation land, but in order to achieve high and stable yield, it is appropriate to choose sandy loam and light clay loam with deep soil (soil thickness above 60cm, at least more than 40cm), good drainage, good fertility, moist, breathable and slightly acidic (pH range: 5.5mur6.5) (limestone mountain area can not be planted). However, try to avoid planting in non-water-retaining sandy soil and poorly drained land with high sand content on the top of the mountain, and soil preparation should be carried out in autumn and winter one year before afforestation.

① full reclamation land preparation: full reclamation land preparation can be used in flat or gentle slope land (slope less than 15 °), land preparation can be carried out around September, depth: mountain 20--25cm, hilly 25--30cm. To remove stones, roots and other sundries, let the soil mature in the sun, rake flat in November and dig holes around the mountain at a fixed point of 60 × 60 × 60cm.

② banded soil preparation: horizontal banded soil preparation is necessary if the degree is more than 15 °. The horizontal belt of the ring mountain is opened according to the row spacing, the outer height is high and the inner is low, the bandwidth depends on the slope, the slope is small, the slope is large and the belt is narrow, and the hole is dug at a fixed point according to the distance between plants, and the specification is the same as that of full reclamation.

③ block land preparation: for land types with a larger slope of more than 20 °and less than 25 °, or areas such as mountain ponds, reservoirs and traffic lines with high requirements for soil and water conservation, block hole reclamation should be adopted, fixed-point excavation should be arranged according to the "grade" shape around the mountain, and the cave size is generally 50 × 50 × 50cm, and soil and water conservation measures should be added.

2. Afforestation

The initial planting density of pure forest is 2.5m × 2.5m, 2.5m × 3m and 3m × 3m row spacing. The planting density should be determined according to the local conditions, variety characteristics and management purpose. For the foothills and flatter land types with thick soil, 2.5-3 × 3 meters, that is, planting 74-89 plants per mu, and for the lands with poor soil fertility and large slope, the row spacing is 2-2.5 × 3 meters, that is, 89-111 plants per mu. In short, reasonable close planting should be determined according to local conditions, and the coverage density of Camellia oleifera should not be less than 0.6 and not more than 0.8.

There are two methods for afforestation of Camellia oleifera: seedling planting and direct seeding. Planting seedlings and afforestation is carried out in winter and spring, and spring is the best. The essentials are as follows: the topsoil is burrowed, the cave soil is broken, and some organic fertilizer or soil fertilizer is applied in the hole before planting in the place with conditions. The stem of the seedling is straight, slightly deeply planted, the root system is stretched, layered and tight, so that the root soil is closely connected, and the soil is covered with loose soil. The best planting depth of one-year-old seedlings is 1cm at the top of the grafting interface of Camellia oleifera seedlings.

The root neck is lower than the ground 2cm~3cm. In order to ensure survival, do not plant overnight seedlings, all the roots of tea seedlings should be evenly stained with mud before planting, and the mud had better use the more fertile mud and pond mud in paddy fields or ponds. First-class seedlings or biennial seedlings should be selected for afforestation seedlings in order to survive into a forest. In the afforestation of Camellia oleifera, attention should be paid to the allocation of varieties. For those with an area of more than 15 mu, there should be more than 2 varieties, and those with an area of more than 75 mu should have more than 5 varieties for afforestation, and the florescence and maturity of the varieties must coincide. The most suitable period for afforestation is from the first ten days of February to the last ten days of February, and it should be completed by mid-March at the latest. Container seedlings can also be afforestation in the rainy season or planted in autumn and winter.

Direct seeding is carried out in winter and spring, winter sowing is from 11 to December, spring sowing is from February to March, and winter sowing is better. Winter sowing has the advantages of early rooting, quick sprouting, strong seedlings and strong drought resistance, and can save seed storage. Three seeds were sowed in each hole in winter sowing, showing a triangle shape, and the thickness of soil covered after sowing was 4ml 5cm, and the soil covered by spring sowing was about 3cm.

Planting management

1. Planting and management of young Camellia oleifera forest.

The tending period of young forest is 4 years before Camellia oleifera. The tending content includes technical measures such as weeding, seedling cultivation, inter-seedling replanting, pest control, pruning and fertilization and so on.

① loosening soil and weeding: weeding and loosening soil once in the year of afforestation, and then twice a year, the first time is from May to June, and the second time is different in different areas from late August to September. The surface is hot in dog days, so it is not suitable to loosen the soil and weed. The depth of loosening soil is generally suitable for 3~5cm. Afforestation should be shallow in that year, and then deepen year by year; the edge of young trees should be shallow and gradually deepen outward; the loam should be shallow and the clay should be deep.

② young forest fertilization: woodland with sufficient base fertilizer, do not apply fertilizer in the first year. Fertilize twice a year, apply slow-acting fertilizer in winter, such as fire soil ash or other mature organic fertilizer, and apply quick-acting fertilizer such as urea in spring. Early spring is better than summer and autumn, the amount of fertilizer applied per plant per year should not exceed 25 grams, it is best to apply it many times, and the amount of fertilizer applied per plant should not exceed 10 grams each time. The methods include spreading and ring ditch application and so on. Spread fertilizer evenly around the crown, combined with ploughing into the soil; ring ditch application, that is, at the outer edge of the crown, dig wide and deep circular or semicircular trenches of each 20~30cm.

③ young tree shaping: Camellia oleifera young tree shaping method is divided into two steps: the first is to raise dry. Within 1 ~ 2 years after afforestation, all the spring shoots of the terminal bud should be retained to form the trunk rapidly, and the second step is to set the shape. The high 60cm of the trunk leaves 3-4 strong main branches around the trunk, and the number of secondary main branches on each main branch depends on the size of the tree and the distance between the two main branches. The best time for pruning is early spring. Get rid of cuteness after pruning. Pruning young trees should be light rather than heavy.

④ forestland intercropping: interplanting crops, medicinal herbs and green manure with short harvest period in young woodland, ploughing instead of caressing, which is beneficial to the growth of Camellia oleifera and short-term harvest, and improve economic benefits. The selection of intercropping crops is based on the principle of not winning glory, fertilizer and water with Camellia oleifera. Intercropping requires that an area of 1 square meter be reserved for Camellia oleifera. Camellia oleifera woodland should be planted between peanuts, legumes and some green manure plants, but not tall stalks, vines and crops with high water consumption in dry season.

2. Planting management of Camellia oleifera adult forest.

① Reclamation: after Camellia oleifera enters the full fruiting stage, according to the site conditions and variety types, it is necessary to hoe shallowly at least once a year and dig deeply once every 3 years. It usually takes place after the rainy season and before the dry season. The depth is about 10cm. The depth of deep digging should be at 15~20cm after fruit harvest and before sap flow in the following year. Attention must be paid to soil and water conservation of woodland in reclamation. The terrain is gentle, with a slope of 15. The following Camellia oleifera woodland can be completely reclaimed, but depending on the length of the slope, leave water at the top, hillside and foot of the mountain to protect it. The slope is 15. Above, especially the soil developed by sandstone and granite, it is appropriate to use belt reclamation, dig the belt to keep the area, and rotate every other year.

② fertilization: different types of fertilizers were applied according to soil nutrient content, growth status and different growth stages of Camellia oleifera. It is mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer and organic fertilizer in the big year, and phosphorus and nitrogen fertilizer in the small year. More than 15kg compound fertilizer is applied per mu every year, and it is applied in conjunction with organic fertilizer.

③ pruning: Camellia oleifera is mainly thinned, heavy cut in Lunar New year, young and young. After the fruit is harvested every year until the sap flows in the following year, cut off dead branches, disease and insect branches, cross branches, thin and weak inner bore branches, foot branches, overgrown branches and so on.

④ adjust density: close planting woodland, usually in 10-12 years, when branches and leaves cover each other. At this time, depending on the situation of the woodland, the density should be adjusted twice within 2 to 3 years, and the sparse forest should be replanted and the inferior forest should be replaced.

⑤ high grafting to change crown: for some inferior plants in the adult forest, after two years of observation and calibration, the superior tree panicle was used, the subcutaneous branch grafting method was adopted, and the rootstock was cut off. The trunk diameter 3-4cm rootstock was sawed off at the dry height of 40-80cm. When the rootstock was cut off, the cortical tear of the rootstock was prevented. Each plant left 2-3 main branches as vegetative branches and shade, and all the rest were removed. Clean the fracture of the rootstock with clean water and dry it, cut the saw with a grafting knife, the cutting surface is high and low, slightly inclined; cut the rootstock, cut the dry skin with an one-sided blade, deep into the xylem, tear the skin in one direction, so that it can be wrapped after grafting. Cut the scion, cut the scion with a single blade on the reverse side of the leaf bud from slightly below the bud base, straight down, about 2 long, slightly xylem in the section, medulla visible at the base, make a short cut oblique below the leaf bud, and then cut off from 2mm above the petiole to form a scion with 1 bud and 1 leaf, put it in clean water, insert the scion, the scion is cut inward, and inserted close to one side. The scion section is slightly higher than the fracture of the rootstock to facilitate the healing of the scion rootstock, and a little skin tearing is left below when bandaging, because the big tree is nutritious and convenient for excessive nutrition. Moisturize with a water-soaked plastic bag, when bagging, leave the moisture in the bag, moisturize, leave the supported bamboo strips outside the bag to facilitate excessive water flow out of the bag, use a newspaper (bamboo shoot clothes) to cover the outer layer of the plastic bag in the east-west direction, 40 days later, go to the moisturizing bag but still need shade. The best grafting time is from mid-late May to mid-June in our city. The same woodland must be completed within 1 ~ 2 years.

Pest control

The main diseases of Camellia oleifera are anthracnose, soft rot, bituminous coal disease and so on. The main pests are stem borer, tea tip moth, longicorn beetle, weevil, ant toad, tea caterpillar, beetle, leaf wasp and so on.

1. Anthrax: prevention and control before winter, 50% carbendazim, 500 times liquid of wettable powder. 50% carbendazim wettable powder 300 times or 50% carbendazim 500 times in summer.

2. Soft rot: 50% carbendazim 300,500-fold solution, 75% methyl topiramate 300,500-fold solution, 50% carbendazim 1000-1500 fold solution, 1amp 100 Bordeaux solution.

3. Root rot: disinfect diseased seedlings such as 1% copper sulfate or dimethazone.

4. Blue-winged longicorn beetles: during the peak period of adult Eclosion, 20% fruit emulsion, 90% trichlorfon and 1000 times of trichlorfon can be sprayed.

5. Weevil: 1000 times of trichlorfon crystal and 1000 times of dichlorvos EC at 1:1.

The prevention and control of diseases and insect pests of Camellia oleifera must carry out the comprehensive control measures of "prevention is more important than control", based on forest management technology, and combined with biological and drug control. When carrying out reclamation and intercropping fertilization, attention should be paid to burying diseased branches, diseased leaves and diseased fruits, killing eggs and pupae, and cutting off historical diseased plants. It is also necessary to protect and utilize natural enemies, such as black lady beetles, red lady beetles, parasitic wasps, parasitic flies, fungi, and so on, to carry out biological control.

Harvesting and processing

1. Sign of maturity: the peel is smooth and the color becomes brighter. When the fruit of red skin type is ripe, the pericarp is red and yellowish, and the type of green skin is green and white. The seed shell is dark black or yellowish brown, glossy, yellowish in seed white, showing oil light. Harvesting fully mature seeds is not only an increase in oil production, but also an original guarantee for reducing the acid price of camellia oil. The suitable harvest time is from 3 days before fruit ripening to 7 days after fruit ripening. Cold dew seeds were harvested in mid-October. Frosts Descent seeds were harvested at the end of October and Lidong seeds were harvested in early November. Early picking is strictly prohibited.

2. Harvesting method: the real-time harvest is the budding period of Camellia oleifera, and it is strictly forbidden to break branches to take fruit.

3. Fruit treatment: after the fruit is harvested, the stacking time should not exceed 5-6 days, it should be spread out in the sun, several times a day should be turned over, the fruit should be cracked, the sundries should be removed, and the seeds should be harvested into the warehouse to be squeezed.

Planting techniques and key points of cultivation and Management of traditional Chinese Medicine Evodia rutaecarpa

Evodia rutaecarpa is a bitter stomach tonic and analgesic, also known as Evodia rutaecarpa, tea spicy, lacquer spicy, smelly spicy, rice spicy, etc., is a small tree or shrub of the genus Evodia of Rutaceae, and is planted in small or large quantities in places south of the Qinling Mountains. Born in sparse forests or bushes in the mountains from flat to 1500 meters above sea level, it is more common in sunny slopes. Let's take a look at the planting techniques of Evodia rutaecarpa.

Growth habits of Evodia rutaecarpa

Evodia rutaecarpa produces all over the south of Qinling Mountains, but there is no natural distribution in Hainan. It has been introduced and cultivated, and all of them grow badly. Lax requirements for soil, general slopes, plains, houses in front of the house, roadside can be planted. Neutral, slightly alkaline or slightly acidic soil can grow, but when used as a seedbed, it is better to use loam or sandy loam with deep soil layer and good drainage, and low-lying flooded land is not suitable for planting.

Propagation methods of Evodia rutaecarpa

1. Root insertion propagation: a 4-year-old 6-year-old plant with developed root system and vigorous growth was selected as the mother plant. In early February, the soil around the rhizosphere of the mother plant was dug out, and the thick lateral roots of chopsticks were cut into small segments of 15 cm in length. On the prepared border surface, trenches were opened according to row spacing of 15 cm and plant spacing of 10 cm. The root was obliquely inserted into the soil, the upper end of the soil was slightly exposed, the soil was slightly compacted, and the grass was covered with dilute dung water. New buds will grow in about 2 months and can be planted in the nursery in the next spring or winter.

2. Branch cuttage propagation: select 1-2-year-old strong and pest-free branches, cut the middle section into 20 cm long cuttings in February, the cuttings must retain 3 bud holes, and the lower end is cut into a slope near the node. Insert the lower end of the cuttings into 1ml / L indole butyric acid solution, soak it out and insert it into the seedbed for half an hour, the suitable depth of the cuttings is 2x3 of ear length, compacted with soil and shaded by watering, it can take root after 1-2 months, and transplant in the next year.

3. Tillering reproduction: Evodia rutaecarpa is easy to reproduce by tillering, ploughing out the lateral root at 50 cm from the mother plant every winter, cutting the cortex every 10 cm, covering soil and fertilizing grass. In the following spring, a lot of root tiller seedlings will be pulled out, cover grass will be removed, and the seedlings will be separated and transplanted when the seedling height is about 30 cm.

Planting techniques of Evodia rutaecarpa

1. Land selection and land preparation: Evodia rutaecarpa is lax on the soil. Generally, slopes, plains, houses, and roadsides can be planted. 2000-3000 kg of farm manure per mu is applied as base fertilizer, deeply turned and exposed for a few days, and the broken soil is raked flat to form a high border with a width of 1-13 meters.

2, timely transplanting: transplanting in winter and spring, transplanting in winter is better (about December). In spring (March to April), dig holes according to the plant spacing of 330cm and 400cm, with a diameter of 50cm and 60cm, depending on the length of the root, first apply rotten barnyard manure or river mud as base fertilizer, and plant seedlings to cover the soil and press tightly. The initial seedlings are small and can be intercropped with peanuts, beans and sweet potatoes.

3. Field management: timely ploughing and weeding and keeping the soil moist, applying mature human feces and urine once before spring germination, the amount of fertilizer varies with the age of the tree, 10kg of human feces and urine is applied to each tree in three years, and a ring-shaped shallow ditch is opened about 48 cm from the plant to cover the soil. Before blooming and fruiting in July, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer once, apply compost (or river mud, human feces and urine), plant ash and so on in winter to cultivate the soil to prevent freezing.

4. Pruning and pruning: the top tip of the main stem is cut off to promote the germination of the young tree with a height of 80cm and 100cm. Among the side branches growing in all directions, 3 or 4 strong branches are selected and cultivated into the main branch. In the summer of the second year, three or four fully developed branches were selected between the axils of the main branches, which were cultivated into secondary main branches, and then released lateral branches on the main branches. After several years of shaping and pruning, it has become a high-yielding tree with outer circle and inner space, open crown, ventilation and light, low stem and low crown, which can enter the full fruit period after 3-4 years.

Control of diseases and insect pests of Evodia rutaecarpa

1. Coal disease

[symptoms] Coal disease is also known as coal fouling disease, which is caused by aphids and scale insects on Evodia rutaecarpa. In the later stage, the leaves and technical stem are covered with thick coal seams, and the diseased trees blossom and bear less fruit.

[control] during the occurrence period of aphids and scale insects, 2000 × 3000 times diluted 40% dimethoate EC or 25% imidophos 800 × 1000 times were sprayed, once every 7 days, for 2 times in succession. During the onset of the disease, the patients were sprayed with Bordeaux solution for 10 days, once every 14 days and 3 times in a row.

2. Rust

[symptoms] Rust mainly harms the leaves of Evodia rutaecarpa. At the initial stage of the disease, yellow-green dots and orange-yellow blister spots are formed on the leaves, causing the leaves to die.

[prevention and treatment] spray Baume 0.3 degree stone sulfur mixture or 65% Dyson zinc wettable powder 500 times, once every 7 days.

3. Old wood worm

[symptoms] the larvae ate food in the tree trunk, and the stem died hollow. From July to October, unshaped glial secretions, sawdust and insect dung appeared on the trunk below 30 cm from the ground.

Use a knife to scrape off eggs and newly hatched worms. when the larvae are eaten inside the wood, 50 times of wettable BHC powder can be filled outside the wormhole, or 80% dichlorvos solution can be soaked in cotton to plug the wormhole to seal the hole to kill the larvae.