MySheen

It is said that my succulent leafy baby is very fat, but the secret is …...

Published: 2024-11-05 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/05, Leaf cuttings-one of the ways of reproduction of succulent plants. Collect the scattered leaves and sow them like seeds, and you will have a bumper harvest in the coming year. If you just want to try to sow succulent plants, it is also recommended to start with leaf planting and give up sowing. Open below.

Leaf-cutting-one of the reproductive methods of succulent plants. Collect the scattered leaves and sow them like seeds, so that next year's harvest can be harvested.

If you are just getting started and want to try sowing succulent plants, it is also recommended to start with leaf cuttings and give up sowing. Let's start with the introduction and witness the magic of nature together!

A few key points about leaf insertion

◆1, carefully read the complete article, you can change the leaf insert small expert.

◆2. In the early stage, some varieties with high success rate are recommended, such as white peony, black prince, Huang Li, Ming Yue, Ji Qiuli, Ji Long Yue, Hua Yue Yue, Jing Ye, female chicks, Marcus, Tia, Hongzhiyu, etc., mainly belonging to Pinwheel Grass, Pseudostoneflower, Sedum, etc. of Crassulaceae.

◆3. Try to pick healthy and complete leaves, which can greatly improve the success rate of leaf insertion.

◆4, spring and autumn leaf insertion success rate is the highest, summer can also be leaf insertion, but need to pay attention to ventilation and cooling; winter is not suitable for leaf insertion, easy to melt water.

◆5. The best temperature of leaf insertion is between 20-28 degrees, and the best humidity is 60%-80%. It grows at its fastest rate in this environment.

◆6, for the "small bud", water is always more useful than fertilizer, when the leaves grow roots can keep the soil moist.

7. The budding speed of leaf cuttings varies according to varieties and environments, generally about 10-20 days. More than two months without budding as long as the leaves are healthy, do not give up waiting. Therefore, a leaf insertion must collect a large number of leaves at the same time.

1

Preparing soil

The simplest way to mix, peat soil 60%: coarse sand 40%.

The soil should keep water as the best, and the particles should not be too large, so as to avoid drying up the roots of leaf seedlings before they enter the soil after they grow out (the newly grown roots will dry up after being exposed to the air for a period of time), which is the main reason why most leaves cannot grow roots.

In the accompanying picture, I used the soil left over from the past. The ingredients are charcoal, coarse sand, coconut bran, peat soil, perlite, etc. (More particles will be better for water permeability, so water frequently to keep it moist)

2

Picking fresh leaves

Just picked leaves need to dry the wound, 1-3 days can be. There are also many people pick leaves and put them aside, waiting for roots to grow again. The only disadvantage of this method is that the leaves will naturally roll up after drying in the air for too long, especially some thin ones, which will roll into a ball. How to insert them?

About how to insert, is placed in the soil or air rooting method

There are three commonly used methods, each of which has been certified by ISO2016 testing, and the effect is similar, but there are different conveniences in the later management.

Lay flat on the ground. The advantage is that it is not easy to be infected by germs in the soil. The disadvantage is that some roots cannot take root in the soil after they grow out. They need to be planted artificially and watered again. If the leaves are reversed, the buds will grow in the soil and the roots will face the sky... and then they will go to heaven.

Insert obliquely into the soil. Advantages: solve the problem of root exposure in front, and are not afraid of positive and negative errors. The disadvantage is that the wound is in direct contact with the soil and is easily blackened by bacteria in the soil.

Directly into the ground. The advantage is that it is very convenient for later maintenance, but the disadvantage is that some buds may not be able to drill out again, and the buried soil will forever become a small grave. (The previous sentence was a joke... the rot rate would not be very high. This method was also used more in greenhouse breeding.)

Summary: As long as contact with the soil will have a certain probability of blackening, water, rot, which is also related to the health of the leaves, varieties, but the probability of these damage is very small, well controlled can be reduced to less than 1%-3%, can also be ignored!

3

Maintenance and management after leaf insertion

After the leaves are inserted, put them in a place where there is no direct sunlight or weak sunlight to wait for budding. Because the leaves themselves contain a lot of water and nutrients, they do not need to be watered before budding and rooting. (At this time, the watered leaves cannot absorb, and the humid environment makes it easier for the germs to be active.)

► No direct sunlight environment

After about 30 days of sprouting, water sparingly and move to a place with some sunlight. Later maintenance is mainly observation, hydration. Be sure not to leave the seedlings in a dry state.

► No direct sunlight environment location is like this

Ventilation is good for leaf inserts, but note that ventilation is not with fans or strong winds. Light air flow is ventilation. The reason why the germination rate of glass containers is fast is that the humidity inside the container is greater than that outside, and it can also maintain a certain temperature.

Succulent plant leaf insert is very magical, many new contact succulent plant friends see leaves grow cubs will always be surprised and happy and anxious, what should we do next?

Most of the time, even if you don't worry about leaf insertion, the seedlings will grow slowly. If you are really worried about whether you will kill the succulent little life by mistake, you may want to take a look at the management of succulent plants after leaf insertion.

First of all, we must understand the problems that will occur during the leaf insertion process

The first case: only germination, no roots.

Don't worry too much, equivalent to about 80% success, as long as the old leaves do not die, let the small seedlings grow slowly, wait until a certain time, will definitely take root, just like breaking down the branches, cutting as simple;

The second case: only rooting, no germination.

Can wait a little while, if still do not germinate, can gently pull out the leaves, gently break off the roots, and then re-placed on the soil above, let it slowly germinate, or still can take root, germination. I have tried, only take root, do not sprout, break off several times in a row, will eventually take root and sprout.

The third case: no roots, no germination.

Then we have to look at the substrate that place, is not broken when breaking, or with a layer of skin on the diameter, can be gently pulled out, will be easier to germinate, the rest only quietly waiting.

The fourth case: take root and sprout, soon the mother leaves hydrate, and the seedlings slowly die.

This is relatively common. The reason should be that when watering, water drops onto the leaves or the soil is too wet to hydrate the leaves. Many people use a watering can to spray water on the leaves, which is very bad, so that the leaves are more likely to die.

With the constant nutrition provided by the maternal leaves, the seedlings would grow healthier and grow much faster.

I always felt that succulent plant leaves were directly watered when they sprouted from roots, relaxed care, and it didn't matter, but it wasn't!

In the early stages of succulent leaf insertion, remember two things:

1. Do not put it in the sun

2. Do not wash in water. This is a transitional period, during which the leaves do not change, about 10-20 days, the roots and buds will grow and enlarge.

The leaves can be wet, but must be ventilated.

According to different varieties, the root and bud time will be different, leaf quality, temperature will also affect the root, bud time and success rate. Patience, sometimes do not see it, unconsciously on the Dacheng flower bud ~ very magical.

After sprouting, the leaves need water, but wet soil is easy to mold. I used to mix the soil with carbendazim, and it worked well. However, once it is found that there are black rot leaves that are not handled in time, they will be decisively discarded or transferred, otherwise they will infect other small partners ~

exposure

Leaf shoots exposed, do not get exposed to the sun, placed in bright light on the line, dry soil and then spray water. The little ones during this period are very fond of water drops ~ as long as they don't need to be soaked.

How to prevent chemical water

If the leaves are black, it is recommended to loosen the soil carefully with a toothpick, pick up the whole to see if the leaves are black or have ugly, wrinkled folds on the back. A precursor to melting water.

1. Treatment method for blackening the end of leaves: disinfect the knife (do not use scissors) with alcohol, disinfect the leaves, cut off the blackened places (I will apply the purple solution for disinfection at ordinary times), dry them in the ventilated place for 2-3 days, and put them back on the soil to take root;

2, the back is very ugly, wrinkled basically is to melt water, I have put such leaves on dry soil to continue to hair, the result is that the leaves grow roots like crazy, that is, do not sprout, and finally throw away, too disgusting

Daily maintenance is best to give some soft sunshine in the morning. If the sun is fierce, it is best to add some sunscreen measures. For example, I will put the small ones together with the big meat and let them enjoy the cool next to the big meat ~~

About Ye Chajin

A long time ago, at that time, I was still very naive, too young, thinking that varieties with brocade could not be inserted into leaves. (After all, it's too rare, and I can't bear to break the leaves.) Then one day, I collected a lot of brocade varieties. I just wanted to try it out. Break it off…

As a result, it was discovered that the rate of leaf insertion of brocade was really drunk, completely following the rate of leaf insertion of the female parent. The success rate of leaf insertion of this Ji Long Yue brocade below is almost 100%.

Of course! There are also some false brocade cases, seedling chlorophyll has not yet fully formed, so we often see many albino seedlings think it is brocade, but after growing up, it is normal.

Leaf seedlings also have natural enemies. Rat women have a big appetite and run fast. If they find them, they must be removed immediately, otherwise they will bite a hole!

Leaf cuttings for me is a very magical thing, watching the leaves slowly take root and grow up the kind of happiness; will share the seedlings with friends around. Subtle feelings of mutual influence between plants and people, between people. Life itself is a miracle.

Okay, so much has been said. If you have any questions, leave a message at the bottom right to discuss them together.

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