MySheen

Key points of initial modeling, maintenance and management of white wax bonsai

Published: 2024-11-06 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/06, The initial modeling and maintenance of white wax bonsai 1. The botanical characteristics of white wax are Lilidaceae and white wax. Jingshan, native to western Hubei, is a deciduous tree with a height of more than 30 meters. Young and mature bark is smooth, light grayish green, middle-aged and old bark has longitudinal dark gray wrinkles. The branches have strong germinating ability.

Initial modeling and maintenance of white wax bonsai

1. Botanical characteristics of White Wax

Fraxinus mandshurica belongs to Melilotus, a plant of the genus Euphorbia. Jingshan, native to western Hubei, is a deciduous tree with a height of more than 30 meters. Young and mature bark is smooth, light grayish green, middle-aged and old bark has longitudinal dark gray wrinkles. The branches are strong in germination and resistant to pruning. The tree is resistant to drought, moisture, high temperature, fertilizer and sunshine. It can be cultivated in open field in the south of Beijing. Suitable for neutral and weakly acidic soil, PH value 5-7, by sowing and cutting culture.

Second, the treatment and cutting culture of the lower mountain pile of Jie White Wax.

Far from the stumps of white wax trees purchased from the producing area, our mountain people dig in winter and early spring. The local cultivation and excavation time can be excavated except from the middle of June to the middle of August. The general protection measures of mountain people in mining and transportation are poor, although this tree species has strong vitality, in order to obtain a higher survival rate, it is still necessary to pay attention to its different degrees of dehydration. First of all, the cut pile should be put in place at once. The root of this tree species is easy to take root, and the saw of root diameter 200mm can still send out fibrous roots, so all roots and branches that hinder potting and shaping in the future should be sawed off decisively. Secondly, it is necessary to absorb enough water, and if possible, it is best to soak the root upright in water with rooting agents (such as rooting powder, vitamin B12). The treatment time is based on the instructions for the use of rooting agents. Or the whole pile is soaked in clean water for a day and night, and then planted in a sand bed for maintenance. The old piles and cut-dry piles with buried depth above 20cm and dry diameter larger than 20cm should be deepened properly. Row pile distance: the distance between medium piles should be more than 0.5m and that of large piles should be more than 1m. This makes it easy for the branches to stretch, otherwise the branches cover each other, which is disadvantageous to the growth and pruning operation. Again, after planting should be full of water, so that sand and root gap close contact, usually keep the sand bed moist, often sprinkle water on the tree trunk. If you use 30% Murray 50% sunshade net protection, the effect will be better. In general, it will sprout in late spring and early summer. The Beginning of Autumn can remove the sunshade net in early August to make it enjoy the sunshine. From the end of April to the beginning of May, if there is still an ungerminated stump, scrape its bark with a knife. If the top skin is still emerald green instead of withered yellow, it can be pulled out of the sand bed. After soaking in clean water for one day and night, sand is planted in half-yin and half-yang for maintenance, which can still promote germination and survival.

In order to protect the ecological environment, sowing and cutting culture are advocated. Sowing is suitable for large area breeding, which can be done with reference to garden technical materials. It is easier for bonsai lovers to breed with cuttings, which is carried out in winter and spring. Use annual strong branches, cut 10cm-15cm long before germination, insert it in sand bed, shade properly, and often water to keep sand bed moist. It can take root in more than 30 days. It can be transplanted to the field for cultivation in the middle of May, and it can also be planted in summer and autumn, but it must be shaded, keep the sand bed moist, and the management is a little more difficult.

Third, fixed branches and shaping of white wax stump.

The new buds sprouted in the first year should be dealt with according to the strength and weakness of the sprouting branches of each stump.

For prosperous trees, generally after the Beginning of Autumn in early August, when most of the branches grow above 40cm, fix the branches and leave the branches in line with the modeling direction, leaving 1-2 branches from the raw branches, and the rest will be removed. If you find that there are no branches in the parts that need to come to the branches, you can use the excess branches in the lower part of the trunk to connect with the missing branches, and the lower part should be pulled in place with rope or aluminum wire. At this time, it is best not to tie up the shape by winding. As a result of the node white wax branch thicker faster, a little careless, it will sink silk, affecting the beauty and growth of the first-class branch. Urea fertilizer was applied to every square meter of 10g-20g according to the pile area every other week after setting branches to promote the thickening of new branches. Because white wax can grow when the daily average temperature is more than 15 ℃, as long as the new pile has sufficient water, fertilizer and sunlight, the diameter of the base of the vigorous branch can reach more than 20mm from the same year to before frost. Therefore, the terminal branch should be pinched first to control its length (the commodity post of rapid prototyping can cut the first branch and the second branch at the end of the year). The branches that need to be thickened at the bottom and other parts are allowed to grow. It should be observed at any time in the process of management, and it is found that the extra branches sprouting at the base of the dry branches should be erased in time, otherwise the crazy branches will grow suddenly, consume nutrients in vain, and affect the growth and thickening of the set branches. After the frost leaves fall, it can be served in the basin. Dig out the pile material from the sand bed, shake off the gravel from the root, cut off the overlong root, cut the branch shape, plant it according to the size of the pile, fill with nutritious soil, and the shallow basin should be surrounded so as not to expose the fibrous root to the surface of the basin. Finally, we should pour enough water and strengthen the management of overwintering. If the sand bed is not in a hurry to be used, it can be pruned in winter, and it is better to put it on the basin on the eve of germination in spring.

For weak trees, although they sprout and branch, but the roots do not grow and grow sparsely, they should continue to be cultivated in the plant sand bed and put on the basin again after the roots and branches grow flourishing in the second year. Do not rush to prune the pot, affecting the survival rate.

Fourth, the shape of the white wax branch.

White wax is a fast-growing tree species with exuberant growth. after one year's cultivation and pruning of basal branches, most of the branches can be pruned and stored in the second year, except for a few terminal transitional branches, floating branches and falling branches which are specially lengthened and thickened. In the initial stage, the first and second branches are mainly tied (pulled), supplemented by shearing, and in the later stage, after the branches are basically formed, they are mainly sheared, supplemented by pulling, and generally pruned by pruning techniques that go up first and then down, suppressing the strong and helping the weak. First up and then down: that is, the upper part of the tree is cut first, then the middle branch is cut after a period of time, and then the lower branch is cut every few days. For the same branch, the ascending branch is cut first until the parallel and descending branches are thicker than the upper branches. To suppress the strong and help the weak, the strong and strong branches in the upper part should be cut for several days first, and then cut when the weak branches grow to a certain thickness. Objective to match the thickness of the branch to its position.

For particularly prosperous trees, in addition to the usual attention to control, can be carried out to remove leaves and cut branches.

After Frosts Descent in autumn, the leaves withered by frost and the branches were exposed, which was very advantageous to observe the trend of the branches (pieces), interspersed back and forth, high and low, and position shape. At this time, the branches can be carefully trimmed and tied. Can be cut in place with scissors to complete, cut not in place, can be wound with aluminum wire bending pull in place; some branches too high or direction, position is not good, with aluminum wire or rope pull in place. The opposite branch and the frog leg branch should be paid special attention to; the opposite branch should be staggered and cut off on the fixed branch and the first and second branch; the frog leg branch can be cut short or changed into an inflection branch at the same time.

5. fertilizer and water management and pest control of Jie white wax bonsai

The management and maintenance of white wax bonsai can be summarized as "big water, big fertilizer, big sun". Big water: that is, there must be sufficient water, wet is better than dry; big fertilizer: thin fertilizer is applied frequently in the growing season, in order to facilitate tree absorption and avoid waste of fertilizer liquid, it is appropriate to apply fertilizer once every 5-7 days. The fertilization time is generally carried out when the basin soil is dry in the afternoon on a sunny day, and the leaves are watered after application. When the pot is wet in cloudy and rainy days, the root is not easy to breathe, and the root is not easy to absorb after fertilization. Even in sunny days, as long as the moisture keeps up, it can sprout and grow in 38 ℃-40 ℃ high temperature and strong sunlight, and the branch tips rarely have the phenomenon of self-cutting, so it can be seen that its adaptability is particularly strong. The easiest way to judge whether it is short of water, fertilizer and sunlight is to observe the sprouting of its new shoots: when there is plenty of fertilizer, water and sunshine, the branches from the tops are strong, the twigs and leaves are purplish red and turn green gradually; when they are insufficient, the branches are thin and weak, and the young leaves are light green.

Cake fertilizer and water must be applied 5-7 days before picking leaves and cutting branches, and new buds will sprout three days after strong cutting in the peak growing season. After the new buds sprout, cake fertilizer and water should be applied again. When the ratio of water and fertilizer is 8:1, the branches tend to be plump, and the number of pruning can be increased appropriately.

Except for the alkaline soil and long-term sprinkler irrigation tap water, the leaf chlorosis has not been seen by other bacteria at present. Chlorosis should be irrigated with ferrous sulfate according to 1RU 400 in water and then irrigated once every other week for 3-5 consecutive times.

In recent years, two kinds of insect pests have been found: one is thrips, the larval system is about 1.5mm, which often harms the unfolded new leaves in spring, making the edge of the leaves curl out, making the tips of the new buds shrink into a ball, and the heart leaves gradually wither. After discovery, the enemy should be used in time to kill 800-1500 times, or dichlorvos 80% EC 1000-1500 times, or latent insect kill 1000-2000 times spray, or after the larval damage period, remove the roll of diseased leaves and fallen leaves, promote the development of new leaves, that is, return to normal. The other is the cotton blowing scale and the red wax scale, which is harmful to the trees with insufficient sunlight and weak tree potential, which is harmful to the branches and sucks the tree sap. The larvae can be sprayed with 2000 times of permethrin during the peak hatching period of May-June and September-November, and it is best to use manual disinfestation when the pest has just occurred.

Jie White Wax is a new bonsai tree species that has been widely developed and utilized in recent years, and its modeling and maintenance methods are still being explored and tested. The climatic conditions are different in different places, the stereotyped direction of the works is different, and its methods and performance characteristics will be different. Other bonsai friends, if you have more successful experience, you can exchange and discuss with each other. There are some inadequacies in this article, and I hope you will not hesitate to comment. Let's work together to improve our skills and pursue innovation in order to carry forward the traditional bonsai art of the Chinese nation.

The method of pruning and modeling of white wax bonsai in turn

The method of pruning and modeling of white wax bonsai in turn

White wax is a deciduous tree, a fast-growing tree species, which has strong adaptability and plasticity. After several years of maintenance of this rare tree species, I have found out a set of key points of maintenance and the modeling method of "rotation pruning and pine bone positioning" to discuss with you.

First, the key points for the maintenance of white wax

The temperature from November to February of next year is relatively low, and it is winter. When changing the billet, the lower cutting saw should be in place in one step, so that the root section and the ground should be as horizontal as possible, and then cut flat with a sharp knife, in order to prevent bacteria from invading, quickly form callus and produce continuous root system. in order to raise the root in the future to improve the ornamental value. When cutting the upper part of the saw, first find the ideal bud point, and then cut it first on the top of the pair. After survival, the cut-off is usually carried out around October. When the temperature rises from March to April, the cultivation pile is slightly different from winter: the root is in the same way, and the upper part should be in place in one step. According to the bud point is divided into 45 degrees oblique saw, cut flat with a sharp knife, conditional can be applied to 200PPM gibberellin solution, and entangled with plastic strips. According to observation: winter plants are in a dormant state, can not absorb nutrients, but consume nutrients. When sprouting in spring, the initial growth of the terminal bud is normal, and when the growth period is over, the growth and diameter of a pair of branches below the top are often 2-3 times that of the apical branch.

Blank with no miscellaneous bacteria clean river sand, sediment can be, choose sunny, high-lying flat site, with red brick growth square high 30CM sand bed, the lower part of filling 5CM around the cinder or rubble as drainage layer, around to dig 5CM drainage ditch. When planting a pile, water is irrigated while shaking the pile until the sand is in close contact with the pile, but it should not be planted too deep. According to the observation: the sand bed is too high, it is easy to appear the phenomenon of wet and dry, but not easy to detect. The effect of sediment is the best, but it is easy to grow weeds. General sand bed after two years of use should do a comprehensive, closed sterilization, insecticidal, weeding work, otherwise can not continue to use.

Keep plenty of moisture and sunshine during maintenance, don't do it and then cut it. After the Beginning of Autumn, according to the growth situation, urea solution of 1RU 500 can be sprayed to supplement fertilizer, and organic fertilizer is generally not applied in the sand bed.

Second, turn pruning, loose bone positioning

Confirm the survival of the stump can choose October gradually on the pot or change the land to plant, generally by cutting and have, lifting and pulling the method of modeling. However, it is easy to appear, such as: the upper part is thicker than the lower part; the growth of long branches exceeds that of modeled branches; wire trapping, stiff branches and so on. The reason can be explained as follows: in order to ensure survival, sufficient water supply, dense branches and mutual shade lead to long internodes, and the relationship between fertilizer in the early and later stage of the upper basin and light leads to thick upper part and thin lower part. After banding, the plant will change its upward growth potential, hinder the transmission of tissue, promote the tillering branches between branches and stems to grow upward, compete for nutrients and sunlight, resulting in stiff branches. Combined with the characteristics of resistance to pruning and easy germination of white wax, the selection of Lingnan bonsai production techniques can make it show deep vitality and majestic momentum, tortuous and changeable bone posture, cadence and smooth lines of free and easy, in order to show concise composition, iron and upright pride. There are many kinds of branches, including top branch, floating branch, purging branch, point branch, shooting branch and so on, which are the basic conditions and support of bonsai skeleton and the key to the success or failure of bonsai works. Reasonable selection of branches of the direction, angle and attributes, purposeful training.

Combined with the law of upward growth of plants, the author adopts the method of "round pruning" to conform to nature and enhance their strengths and avoid weaknesses. The methods are as follows:

The position of the bud point determines the direction of the branch, and some bud points are not ideal, which can be ignored at this time, but it is necessary to make clear the orientation and angle of future changes. When the first-order branch reaches the ideal thickness of 2 prime 3, it is not suitable to bend immediately. Keep the first bud facing upward or outward for truncation (usually around 5CM) so as not to make the cut smooth. And there is an angle of about 45 degrees, which will be formed in the future. Apply enough water and fertilizer to promote the growth of exuberant secondary branches. Wait until the thickness is close enough to retain one or a pair of buds for the second truncation, promoting one fire and two branches. At this time, the ideal thickness of a branch can retain one or a pair of buds for truncation. Two branches can take the law of "two branches see the length", cut one branch short, leaving only one or a pair of buds. Keep the other branch a little longer, cut three to four pairs of buds short, and so on, gradually cut into a skeleton full of twists and turns and different lengths. Then according to this method to create branches, twigs, that is, the so-called "chicken claw antlers", but its growth direction is oblique, so that the branches that meet the requirements can be pruned or divided into several segments to coordinate the thickness of the branches and the maximum intake of sunlight. When pruning, we should pay attention to the concession relationship between branches and the changes between branches so as to avoid similarity.

Cut out different branch types according to the requirements, and when the general branch length reaches the designed 3x5, you can carry out "loose bone positioning", and then step into shaping and maintenance. The methods are as follows:

First determine the orientation and angle to be adjusted, and then grasp the second-and third-grade branches by hand, focusing on the middle of the first-grade branches, which cannot be forced up and down, should twist left and right, and slowly increase efforts to loosen the bone for it, so that the xylem of the branches are misplaced with the cambium, easily reach the design position, and finally be fixed with wire to prevent it from rebounding and achieve the goal of shaping. At this time, the overturned or adjusted branches have large leeway, can be pruned and cut, and are interesting. The loose bone positioning method can also transform the formed bonsai. For example, this method is often used in bonsai shaped by "snow pressure". When using the "loose bone positioning" method, we must pay attention to the following points:

(1) when the cut is not healed, it cannot be operated to avoid tearing.

(2) it is appropriate to choose sunny weather and operate when the pile is missing.

(3) bold, careful and handy, the author has located the loose bone of the branch of 3CM many times, and the effect is very ideal.

(4) it is generally not affected by the season, and the effect is better after defoliation.

Third, the modeling method of "turn pruning and loose bone positioning" has the following advantages.

The main results are as follows: (1) the law of upward growth of plants was not changed by repeated pruning, the skeleton grew strongly and the scissors healed quickly.

(2) the tillering buds between the stem and the first-order branches are dormant and are not easy to be activated, thus reducing the number of growing branches.

(3) the phenomenon of silk trapping will not occur and the ornamental value will be improved.

(4) the dislocation of wood and cambium in the loose bone can promote the proliferation and healing of the tissue and achieve the purpose of thickening.

(5) after the original upward growing branch changes its orientation, it provides space for the growth of the branch and speeds up the forming cycle.

Rotation pruning method > the most suitable pruning method for white wax bonsai: rotation pruning method

Flower bonsai network guide: today the flower bonsai network editor will share with you about the most suitable pruning method for white wax bonsai: turn pruning and shaping method. If you like it, come and have a look at it.

White wax is a deciduous tree, a fast-growing tree species, which has strong adaptability and plasticity. After several years of maintenance of this rare tree species, I have found out a set of key points of maintenance and the modeling method of "rotation pruning and pine bone positioning" to discuss with you.

one. Key points for the maintenance of White Wax

The temperature from November to February of next year is relatively low, and it is winter. When changing the billet, the lower cutting saw should be in place in one step, so that the root section and the ground should be as horizontal as possible, and then cut flat with a sharp knife, in order to prevent bacteria from invading, quickly form callus and produce continuous root system. in order to raise the root in the future to improve the ornamental value. When cutting the upper part of the saw, first find the ideal bud point, and then cut it first on the top of the pair. After survival, the cut-off is usually carried out around October. When the temperature rises from March to April, the cultivation pile is slightly different from winter: the root is in the same way, and the upper part should be in place in one step. According to the bud point is divided into 45 degrees oblique saw, cut flat with a sharp knife, conditional can be applied to 200PPM gibberellin solution, and entangled with plastic strips. According to observation: winter plants are in a dormant state, can not absorb nutrients, but consume nutrients. When sprouting in spring, the initial growth of the terminal bud is normal, and when the growth period is over, the growth and diameter of a pair of branches below the top are often 2-3 times that of the apical branch.

Blank with no miscellaneous bacteria clean river sand, sediment can be, choose sunny, high-lying flat site, with red brick growth square high 30CM sand bed, the lower part of filling 5CM around the cinder or rubble as drainage layer, around to dig 5CM drainage ditch. When planting a pile, water is irrigated while shaking the pile until the sand is in close contact with the pile, but it should not be planted too deep. According to the observation: the sand bed is too high, it is easy to appear the phenomenon of wet and dry, but not easy to detect. The effect of sediment is the best, but it is easy to grow weeds. General sand bed after two years of use should do a comprehensive, closed sterilization, insecticidal, weeding work, otherwise can not continue to use.

Keep plenty of moisture and sunshine during maintenance, don't do it and then cut it. After the Beginning of Autumn, according to the growth situation, urea solution of 1RU 500 can be sprayed to supplement fertilizer, and organic fertilizer is generally not applied in the sand bed.

Second, turn pruning, loose bone positioning

Confirm the survival of the stump can choose October gradually on the pot or change the land to plant, generally by cutting and have, lifting and pulling the method of modeling. However, it is easy to appear, such as: the upper part is thicker than the lower part; the growth of long branches exceeds that of modeled branches; wire trapping, stiff branches and so on. The reason can be explained as follows: in order to ensure survival, sufficient water supply, dense branches and mutual shade lead to long internodes, and the relationship between fertilizer in the early and later stage of the upper basin and light leads to thick upper part and thin lower part. After banding, the plant will change its upward growth potential, hinder the transmission of tissue, promote the tillering branches between branches and stems to grow upward, compete for nutrients and sunlight, resulting in stiff branches. Combined with the characteristics of resistance to pruning and easy germination of white wax, the selection of Lingnan bonsai production techniques can make it show deep vitality and majestic momentum, tortuous and changeable bone posture, cadence and smooth lines of free and easy, in order to show concise composition, iron and upright pride. There are many kinds of branches, including top branch, floating branch, purging branch, point branch, shooting branch and so on, which are the basic conditions and support of bonsai skeleton and the key to the success or failure of bonsai works. Reasonable selection of branches of the direction, angle and attributes, purposeful training. Combined with the law of upward growth of plants, the author adopts the method of "round pruning" to conform to nature and enhance their strengths and avoid weaknesses. The methods are as follows:

The position of the bud point determines the direction of the branch, and some bud points are not ideal, which can be ignored at this time, but it is necessary to make clear the orientation and angle of future changes. When the first-order branch reaches the ideal thickness of 2 prime 3, it is not suitable to bend immediately. Keep the first bud facing upward or outward for truncation (usually around 5CM) so as not to make the cut smooth. And there is an angle of about 45 degrees, which will be formed in the future. Apply enough water and fertilizer to promote the growth of exuberant secondary branches. Wait until the thickness is close enough to retain one or a pair of buds for the second truncation, promoting one fire and two branches. At this time, the ideal thickness of a branch can retain one or a pair of buds for truncation. Two branches can take the law of "two branches see the length", cut one branch short, leaving only one or a pair of buds. Keep the other branch a little longer, cut three to four pairs of buds short, and so on, gradually cut into a skeleton full of twists and turns and different lengths. Then according to this method to create branches, twigs, that is, the so-called "chicken claw antlers", but its growth direction is oblique, so that the branches that meet the requirements can be pruned or divided into several segments to coordinate the thickness of the branches and the maximum intake of sunlight. When pruning, we should pay attention to the concession relationship between branches and the changes between branches so as to avoid similarity. Cut out different branch types according to the requirements, and when the general branch length reaches the designed 3x5, you can carry out "loose bone positioning", and then step into shaping and maintenance. The methods are as follows:

First determine the orientation and angle to be adjusted, and then grasp the second-and third-grade branches by hand, focusing on the middle of the first-grade branches, which cannot be forced up and down, should twist left and right, and slowly increase efforts to loosen the bone for it, so that the xylem of the branches are misplaced with the cambium, easily reach the design position, and finally be fixed with wire to prevent it from rebounding and achieve the goal of shaping. At this time, the overturned or adjusted branches have large leeway, can be pruned and cut, and are interesting. The loose bone positioning method can also transform the formed bonsai. For example, this method is often used in bonsai shaped by "snow pressure". When using the "loose bone positioning" method, we must pay attention to the following points:

(1) when the cut is not healed, it cannot be operated to avoid tearing.

(2) it is appropriate to choose sunny weather and operate when the pile is missing.

(3) bold, careful and handy, the author has located the loose bone of the branch of 3CM many times, and the effect is very ideal.

(4) it is generally not affected by the season, and the effect is better after defoliation.

The modeling method of "round pruning and loose bone positioning" mainly has the following advantages:

The main results are as follows: (1) the law of upward growth of plants was not changed by repeated pruning, the skeleton grew strongly and the scissors healed quickly.

(2) the tillering buds between the stem and the first-order branches are dormant and are not easy to be activated, thus reducing the number of growing branches.

(3) the phenomenon of silk trapping will not occur and the ornamental value will be improved.

(4) the dislocation of wood and cambium in the loose bone can promote the proliferation and healing of the tissue and achieve the purpose of thickening.

(5) after the original upward growing branch changes its orientation, it provides space for the growth of the branch and speeds up the forming cycle.

 
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