When is the better time to change the stump bonsai? Introduction to the method of changing bonsai with tree stump

April is a good time for potted plants to change pots: potted trees grow in limited pots of soil, after a certain number of years, fertility is exhausted, soil layers are hardened, roots are densely packed, and new roots are difficult to grow. It is best to replace them with larger pots and fill them with new soil (changing soil without changing pots is also possible) to ensure the normal growth of potted trees. Pot replacement period: flower viewing class, once every other year; deciduous miscellaneous trees once every 2~3 years, conifers once every 3~4 years; according to age: miniature bonsai due to small pots once a year, young trees once every 2~3 years, adult trees once every 4~5 years. For basin season: generally in the spring and autumn two seasons can be carried out, in order to spring is good. Spring is usually from late February to late April; autumn is suitable from mid-October to mid-November, but the physiological characteristics of pot trees are different, and the pot changing season is also different, such as elm, cold and drought resistance, can be carried out before and after severe cold; while Jiulixiang, Fujian tea, sparrow plum, fine leaf fig and other common characteristics are warm and cold, and the pot changing time should be carried out before and after Qingming.

Method of changing pots: before changing pots, the soil in the pots should be slightly dry. Use bamboo sticks to dig loose the soil around the stumps, invert and lift them up. Pour out the pots and trees together with the mud. Remove the old soil around the roots with bamboo sticks, but the mud attached to the roots must be retained. The amount of retained sludge varies according to the species. Pine and cypress can stay about half, and elm, paniculate, azalea, gardenia and many fine roots easy to grow tree species, most of the old soil can be removed. Then cut off some of the old fibrous roots so that new roots can sprout. Dry mud or river mud is prepared before changing the basin and divided into coarse, medium and fine types. The coarse mud is as big as a thumb. The drainage hole is padded with curved tiles. The coarse mud is placed at the bottom of the basin to facilitate drainage and ventilation. The pile tree is placed at an appropriate position in the basin.(The ratio of tree to pot edge should generally be 4:6 or 3:7, that is, the tree is slightly inclined to any side of the left and right front and back of the basin is good), slightly fine soil is placed around the root of the stump with the roots tightly attached, and then the basin surface is covered with thick soil, and bamboo sticks are inserted into the soil tightly and compacted to stabilize the stump, and then water is sprayed twice with a watering can. The first time can be called root fixing water. When water seeps out of the drainage hole at the bottom of the basin, it is limited to about 15 minutes and then the second time. Make sure that the roots and branches are fully absorbed. Put them in a cool and sheltered place. After three or four days of watering once a day to the tree body spray water once or twice a week before moving to the open sun, a month can not be fertilized. For newly potted stumps, it is best to cut off all the leaves to reduce evaporation. The replacement basin must be washed, if the old basin is used, it must be washed first and dried in the sun before use; if the newly purchased basin is soaked in water for one or two days, commonly known as "annealing", so that it absorbs water and reuses it.

How to make tree stump bonsai tree stump bonsai making tutorial

The method of making tree stump bonsai will introduce the method of making tree stump bonsai, material selection and modeling in detail

(1) Operation skills

In the process of making tree stump bonsai, including cultivation, various techniques are often used alternately, such as splitting, chiseling, carving, tearing, grinding, touching, etching, dyeing, burning, etc., and the tools and practices used in each craft are different.

① Splitting: Using sharp tools and broad axes to chop the trunk and other parts that need processing or split the trunk to cause damage is a processing method to mold the ancient dead tree pile, but it will leave marks of the axe and the defects of the damaged surface.

2 chiseling: chiseling with woodworking steel, chiseling branches to the appropriate depth (width, length) and undulations and other changes. Improper handling of artificial marks obvious.

(3) Carving: Carving xylem with carving instrument to make unsatisfactory parts more natural and reasonable.

④ Carving: Carving is similar to carving, with different techniques. Carving instrument is used to further shape tree branches, which conforms to natural French style and has the meaning of ancient wither. Especially, the skin wound is carved flat around it for healing.

5 Tear: Tear the bark or xylem fibers of the molding part with a vice to make the branches vigorous and natural.

Grinding: manually, mechanically, etc. to polish the artificial heat of the processing surface, so that the wound surface is naturally smooth and natural.

Collision: In the epidermis with a hammer and other blunt instrument collision, for physical stimulation to form a wound, after the callus will form a "tree tumor knot", so that the trunk simple and strange.

Corrosion: processing the carved xylem with acid and other chemical treatment methods to obtain the natural aging of the processed surface (to prevent contamination of bark and dripping into the soil).

dye: paint the bare branches with pigment, sulfur, etc.(remove the bark and expose the xylem) to make them simple and natural.

Like many years dry stem (branch), white branch, and just peeled xylem texture is obviously different.

Burning: Burning the xylem (carved parts) with an electric iron, causing changes in light and dark colors, and imitating the ancient appearance caused by lightning and fire, making the carved natural surface more simple (although the carved surface is natural, but the color is consistent, and it becomes more natural after burning).

To make a good potted plant, the important factors are the material and the knowledge and understanding of the material, and the technical treatment of the material. The creation of bonsai is the whole process of thinking and doing. Thinking is conception, doing is production, and it is the process of implementing techniques. By adopting techniques and means to achieve the envisaged shape and flavor, the creation process is completed.

Do not intend to do first, the idea before doing after, in the production to further improve the idea. The following focuses on the modeling process from the technique.

(2) Selection of materials

Different growth years and different growth environments of various trees will form their own shape characteristics and inherent style.

Generally speaking, medium-sized tree stump materials are very difficult to select, because it is not like small, miniature bonsai "small wins big", plasticity is large, can be arbitrarily modified; unlike old pile (big pile) bonsai, only take its shape and meaning "old, large, ancient, green" materials, only need partial modification. Medium stumps are in between, less shapely than older stumps and harder to sculpt than smaller stumps, especially in trunk sculpts.

There are two kinds of material selection. First, the producer first has a basic idea and then selects the materials. He calmly selects among the materials and selects those who meet the requirements of the idea. This method is called subject selection, that is, targeted selection.

The second situation is based on the materials already mastered at hand, or inadvertently find the ideal material, analyze the appropriate shape, apply the experience accumulated at ordinary times according to the material, this is improvisation.

Generally, the requirements for making solitary bonsai materials are relatively high. Because the solitary appreciation tree exists independently in the basin, there is no foil, no cover, a little carelessness will affect the aesthetic effect. The comprehensive ornamental bonsai is organized by a variety of factors into a scene, is a whole that constitutes the whole picture, various materials can complement each other, hidden deficiency.

Therefore, the materials selected for solitary appreciation of bonsai should be carefully examined from roots, stems, branches and leaves. The earth is not only full of dust, but also full of dust, and the earth is full of dust. Stem, upper and lower thickness to knife scale, both thick and ancient, including the trunk epithelial wrinkles, node Ba old state, even xylem withered bare, as the age of the score; but also consider whether to bend posture, this is the key to making bonsai. Sometimes the trunk is not easy to bend, and the planting angle can be changed.

degrees. The arrangement, quantity, relationship, length, thickness and contrast of lateral branches should also be considered comprehensively. The bones that make up a stump are the trunk and branches, while the flesh and blood often depend on the combination and change of twigs and leaves. In addition, the original height of the material and the height obtained after modeling, that is, the final height after the bending or pruning of the trunk in the technique treatment, whether the ratio of the two heights and the relationship between the space in the pot are harmonious, whether the growth of the material is vigorous, and how the growth of the fibrous root is.

Medium-sized bonsai is best to use potted materials, there is an adaptation process after modeling surgery, if it is wild or cultivated, the lack of potted transition stage, after modeling on the pot, damage is greater, than potted difficult to adapt, affecting growth, affecting survival. Some medium-sized stumps look old, but the actual growth potential is decaying. Once the shape is trimmed and transplanted, it is difficult to recover, and the stagnation is not strong. This is a defect of the material. Attention should be paid when selecting materials.

In addition to considering the above conditions, we should pay attention to the reasonable cooperation and contrast relationship between trees. The more trees there are, the more complex the contrast relationship is. We should carefully select them to make sure that the host and guest coordinate with the theme. Don't simply think that many trees can make up for each other's shortcomings, but ignore all kinds of organic relations between each other. The material also has the front and back points, the production can not force the original sunny side for the front, should find its best angle, including the root, stem, branch, top comprehensive investigation, combined with the future shape of the upper and lower, front and back relationship to determine the new shape viewing surface.

Incidentally, do not take back the materials after rain or when there is water. On the one hand, the root soil is wet and muddy, which is inconvenient to loosen the soil for planting; on the other hand, the leaves are wet and wet, the operation is not quick, the leaves and needles are easy to break, especially the dry branches and branches have too much water, which is easier to break when modeling. The root soil must be dry when making, and less watering or stopping watering can be done in advance to ensure the smooth progress of production.

(3) Cut

This is the first step in removing obstacles to styling. Although the selection of materials for the rough wild state has been a basic idea, has considered the initial framework of the new form, because the modeling useless, obstructive branches will interfere with observation and thinking, hinder the modeling, in order to clarify the eyes, must be appropriate to the material thin cut, easy to consider the next step.

When you start, you must concentrate and think, where is the front, what angle, the shape of the trunk, whether to play with the trend or completely transform, the length of the branch, the angle of expansion, where to stay, where to cut, and so on. Although it is not the final decision, it is necessary to sort out the general idea.

Shearing itself is an artistic treatment technique, which lays a good foundation for future modeling and removes obstacles tied with iron wires. It is different from common tree pruning, only considering ventilation and light transmission, basic balance and other general simple gardening techniques. When thinning, remove old leaves, yellow leaves, diseased branches and stiff weak branches as appropriate, and retain some stiff branches to balance the picture and enhance the appearance of ancient wilderness.

Cut must be careful, rather less not more, rather long not short, less cut more, this is for the idea and production of carelessness left room, to be shaped after the final decision for further processing, otherwise too much action is irreparable.

(4) Modeling

After careful observation and study of the selected materials, there is a creative intention and desire, and I feel confident that this intention and desire will be expressed in vivid form. This expression process is called production.

Making bonsai is like playing chess. You can't care about the gain or loss of a chess piece and affect the overall situation. The same is true for bonsai. Don't pity the loss of a branch or a leaf and affect the whole shape. Don't trim it randomly regardless of the overall situation.

① Modeling reference to nature: making bonsai is not simply a technical process, more importantly, artistic expression, to send feelings to nature, the shape of the imagination depends on both hands to achieve.

The beauty of a pot of works lies first in the beauty of modeling, which absorbs and summarizes all kinds of strangeness of trees in nature. Big trees and ancient trees growing in the field have lower branches spreading or drooping, middle branches extending horizontally or slightly upward, upper branches rising upward, and the overall crown forms a triangular relationship of large lower and small upper. The branches form this regular relationship in order to spread the leaves more widely and get more light. In this way, the lower branches will stretch horizontally in order to compete for sunlight and gradually droop under the influence of gravity. The upper branches are in the range of receiving the most light, and they will grow upward without obstruction. The middle branch is located between the two, forming different branch extension posture. Moreover, trees grow to a certain height, the top of the resistance to nature, twigs Qiu Qu, commonly known as the tree big wind, tree tall by the wind and swaying friction, branches are often in physical stimulation, and show Qiu Jin short, from a biological point of view, twigs short physical performance is good, not easy to break. These have become the basis for tree stump modeling, of course, but also rely on the future maintenance of art pruning, further improve the shape to achieve aesthetic requirements.

② Root protection: regardless of pot planting, planting, after taking the material, pay attention to check the condition of the root surface, unexposed can gently remove the surface soil, observe whether it can be used to view, combine the trunk conditions to determine the main surface of the modeling, do not bury the root can be viewed, or deviate from the main surface direction.

shoot growth

(1) The growth law of trees in nature is a regular triangle (small at the top and large at the bottom), with lower branches drooping (branch length drooping due to gravity), upper branches leaning upward (sunlight foot), and middle branches between the two.

(2) Strong branches of tall trees

When making, do not shake the soil of the root nest easily, and do not use sharp tools to plane, so as not to hurt the fibrous roots. You can wrap the root nest with plastic film first to protect it. You can also use broken pots to support the root nest to protect it. The growth potential of medium-sized bonsai is far less than that of small stumps. Its lignification degree is high, and it is not easy to heal after damage. Especially the root of life should be strictly protected. Medium bonsai production time is a little longer, the root respiration absorption will be affected, in short, in the modeling process, in order to reduce the root damage as much as possible to think a little more comprehensive, better protection.

③ trunk, hard branch modeling method: The success or failure of stump bonsai modeling lies in the morphological changes of trunk and lateral branches, which are harmonious with each other. For materials, if the trunk can be molded with iron wire, insert appropriate thick iron wire from the back of the root (under the condition of molding the main surface), and wind it upward at an angle of 60° with the basin surface (Figure 4-117). Insert the iron wire to avoid the root that hinders, and stick to the skin surface as tightly as possible without loosening. Depending on the hardness of the metal wire itself (overcoming elasticity), it will bring a little artificial pressure. One hand can be wrapped around the other hand and pressed closely to prevent swimming and loosening.

Stick the wire close to the roots.

Winding iron wire upward at an angle of 60° to the basin surface

In order to avoid injury to trunk and lateral branch cortex, first wrap it tightly with hemp shell, palm sheet and other flexible, moisture-retaining and breathable materials. The winding direction is consistent with the direction of winding iron wire later, and the direction of iron wire rotation is synchronous with the bending direction of trunk and branch. In this way, the combination of the three can control the shape and appear clean and tidy.

Wrapping hemp shell, winding iron wire,

The twist direction of the branches, the three must be consistent

For thicker trunks, one or two straight thick iron wires can be placed on one side or left and right sides of the trunk to wind the hemp shell, and the outer winding iron wire is bent with a bending device.

The thickness of the branches at all levels should be bent according to the appropriate, too thick easy to hurt the cortex, but also do not stick, real injury elegant; too thin can not achieve the desired effect, only the appropriate selection of iron wire shape can give the branches knead into strength, the branches appear old mature and powerful. Before modeling, you can use your fingers to try bending the softness of the branches. The branches of different trees (including the age of the tree) will be hard and brittle. In this way, you will know which number of iron wires is appropriate (it is best to use the same branches under pruning for inspection). How big is the capacity when bending, including the technical steps applied, and verify whether the envisaged shape can be achieved. If you feel that it is not possible, you can change your idea and reorganize and adjust the shape according to perceptual knowledge. When winding the iron wire, ten fingers are applied simultaneously, especially with the thumbs of both hands to slowly rotate and bend, and deliver it to the envisaged arc. Sometimes it is necessary to bend and twist for many times to achieve the desired effect. Do not be hasty or excessive. If the elastic force of the branch exceeds the limit, it will break. Generally, 1/2 of the fracture is not a problem. After the wound is restored, wrap it with hemp shell for protection. Then wind the iron wire to shape. Do not bend it greatly at the broken place as much as possible. Otherwise, although the branch will not die, it will affect the shape. It affects the whole image.

The shaping of each pot work can never be successful by one or two modeling. In the cultivation stage, it is necessary to repeatedly correct the posture and reorganize the protective form. It takes many years to show the ideal effect. Even if the production is not bad at that time, it is still perfect from the standard; it must also be gradually perfected and perfected through many strict re-adjustment and pruning, so as to make the spiritual temperament better. In the future management, if the iron wire begins to sink into the skin, it should be removed immediately, so as not to affect the growth and destroy the branch shape.

For small stumps, due to the rapid growth rate and low lignification, once the wire is removed, the growth will be out of control; therefore, it must continue to be repaired with wire. The winding wire should be in the same direction as the original winding, but the original binding trace should be avoided, so that the tree can grow in the artificially controlled track again. In this way, to a certain number of years, the plant will reach an ideal state, no longer fixed with other things can become a pot of mature, stereotyped works.

After winding the iron wire around the trunk to the top, do not cut off the excess iron wire immediately. Be sure to set aside a section as a lever for modeling. The hard stem and branches can be bent accordingly. After the shape is molded and the iron wire head is wound tightly, the excess iron wire shall be cut off.

Iron wire on branches and tips

Set aside a section as a lever to facilitate modeling, and press back to cut off after completion

wire molding

(1) The base of the wire is pressed firmly, which is easy to shape and not easy to loosen.

(2) Trunks and branches are easier to shape with a single wire

The trunk should consider how to bend from the base. If it can't bend or can't meet the required requirements, you can consider changing the angle during planting, planting the trunk obliquely appropriately, overcoming the deficiency of rigid foundation. Pay attention to the mutual communication and connection between trunk inclination and branches when taking off pot modeling. The first curve of the trunk is the key, and it cannot be "convex belly" facing outward; it cannot be concave curved to the front, which is awkward, and there is a suspicion of repetition with the tip of the top; concave curved, refers to the first bend above the root, can be lateral front and basin edge at an angle of 30°, which can avoid the defect of parallel arc surface and basin edge, and can increase the layer thickness of the dry body.

The convex bend of the trunk is the main branch bearing point, which is easy to get sufficient sunshine and grows luxuriantly. The concave bend is accompanied by secondary branches, which are relatively shaded and grow weakly. Depending on the situation, this branch can also be cut off to highlight important branches, or the long branch (main branch) can be extended to get abundant sunshine.

The natural bending of trunk is caused by gravity, physiological characteristics and gravity. When posing for stumps, we should refer to the internal factors to make the shape more reasonable.

Cable-stayed piles cause the trunk to buckle

(1) The root does not echo the trunk, it appears to be smooth and floating, and the right cable-stayed pile can be used.

(2) The root trunk echoes and shows strength, such as the right cable-stayed pile to make the shape more reasonable.

The wire starts from the back of the trunk

Bind the branches to the left and right, and the starting angle of the iron wire should be small and tight, so as to facilitate the shaping of the branches.

Shaping trunk, bending lower part

Superior to the top, showing the strength of the subject

Grafting seedlings should pay attention to the protection of the interface, if not careful, it will lead to the fracture of the healing mouth. When modeling around the tie wire grafting place as far as possible with iron wire support, force bending to avoid this section.

wire anchor

Bending to the right is not easy to crack

Bending to the left will crack.

The trunk and hard branches feel that the ideal effect can not be achieved with iron wire, so they can be "forcibly" twisted by other methods; one is tied with iron wire, and the stem and branches are bent to the desired angle with iron wire, and the stressed parts of the cortex of the branches are protected by bamboo, cloth and rubber hoses, so as not to fall into the cortex and cause damage, and the other end can be tied to the basin mouth or where the foundation can bear force (there should also be protective measures).

Hanging and fixing

In another method, the iron bar of 6 ~ 8 mm is cut into 20 cm in length and pre-bent into the designed Radian (angle). At the bending part of the branch and stem, one end of the iron bar is fastened with a hemp shell, and then the stem and branch are gradually bent to the same angle for temporary fixation, and the other end and all of the iron bar are fastened immediately with a hemp shell, and the bender and the fixing cable are loosened. The stem and branch are strictly controlled in the iron bar without rebound and misbehaving. if necessary, it is better to clamp the bending place with two equal-Radian iron bars.

Pre-bending of iron bar and its fixing

(1) the 6 ~ 8 mm iron bar is pre-bent into the required Radian (2) the wire is fixed at one end.

Hanging and fastening

(1) bend the branches to the iron bars and tie them in the same Radian.

(2) profile, the cadres put one or two iron bars to fix it.

The bending dryer can be made by itself, which can replace the malpractice that it can not be bent by bare hands, and it is more labor-saving, time-saving, safe and reliable.

The trunk can also be split from the middle to the bottom, and the external hemp shell can be properly wound, and the posture can also be changed if it is not easy to bend. A really immovable trunk can change the planting angle.

In addition, techniques such as carving, carving, chiseling, splitting, tearing, grinding, etching and dyeing can be used to make up for the original shortcomings and improve the ornamental effect.

The morphological momentum of the trunk can determine the future shape of the work, and the processing and shaping of the trunk should be in accordance with the overall conditions, the trunk can be arranged in an orderly manner, and all kinds of undertaking relations can deal with nature. the top, branch and root echo each other, so the key to shaping lies in the shape of the trunk. Often an ordinary tree, due to the power of the trunk, the posture angle can be cleverly adjusted to add a lot of color, and sometimes give birth to "wonders".

The trunk can be bent and the planting posture can be changed.

In the layout, the trunk should not be completely exposed from root to tip, nor should it be covered too much. It should be mainly hidden, partially exposed, and cooperate with the rear branches, so that the whole body appears thick and full, showing the vivid posture of the trunk, free and easy side branches and Qiu Qiu.

(4) side branch modeling: the shape of the branch should follow the trunk, with the overall shape, it is the content of the overall shape change. The branch type is basically divided into three major positions: upright, drooping and horizontal, and there are all kinds of changes in the shape.

Side branch modeling

(1) the lateral branches should not use horizontal branches as far as possible to avoid the disadvantages of being parallel to the edge of the basin.

(2) the main lateral branches are not parallel to the edge of the basin

Unreasonable side branch modeling

(1) average distribution (2) imbalance of weight and weight

(3) the posture is the same (4) flat and steady

Reasonable side branch modeling

The main branches are primary and secondary branches, sometimes containing tertiary branches, which cooperate with the trunk to form the bones of bonsai, while the other secondary branches belong to bones and serve for rich forms. Generally speaking, the left and right branches are the key branches that constitute the main outer outline of the whole world, and the relationship must be fully rectified. The anterior and posterior branches, as auxiliary left and right, regulate various relationships, are the main branches at the organizational level, and their bending is easier to master than the trunk.

Each finish the shape of the first-class branch and then do the fine processing modeling of the second-and third-grade branches on the same branch, and then change to the other side of the branch after the completion of pruning. Branches from primary to secondary, from bottom to top, from the center to the left and right (from inside to outside), before and after radiation, gradual transformation, gradual improvement. The distribution of branches is not only consciously arranged to gather and disperse and change angles in modeling, but also consider the rationality of physiology and ecology. The role played in the modeling and growth of branches not only looks good, but also does not interfere with each other and block each other. Otherwise, it will shrink later.

The shape of the branch is reasonable

The distribution of branches of bonsai trees is reasonable.

The bending of the side branches should not appear in the same plane or the same straight line, especially the starting position of each side branch on the trunk is an important way to show the strength and adjust the angle, except for the branchlets; the other side branches, that is, the first-class branches, do not use horizontal branches as far as possible, because the basin edge is horizontal and has the disadvantage of repetition, the inclined line should be used, including the angle relationship with the basin edge. The relationship between them, such as the length, the front and rear, the angle of the stretching posture, and the relationship between them, such as the trunk shape, the flexible change of the overall pattern, and the process of their mutual connection, connection turning point, and the gradual change of shape from root to tip should be explained clearly.

For the top branch along the tree posture, tree potential, tilt to the side and front, generally placed after each branch, the orientation of the top represents where is the front, represents the sunny side, and the forward inclination shows enthusiasm, friendliness and modesty, and the top should have a certain proportion, including the strength of the shape, big, thick, head-heavy and light, which will also affect the growth of the lower part; small, thin, unable to hold the feet, showing a head-light-foot-heavy shape.

5. Planting method

Carefully cut the soil from the roots before planting, trim the injured roots and wither the harmful roots. In addition, consider the planting position, depth and posture angle, spatial relationship (in the selection of materials, pot selection, modeling has been considered), that in line with the French style, meet the requirements of replanting soil.

After planting, it is necessary to make a correction, adjust the relationship between branches, and carefully trim the ends of each branch. in general, the first and second branches decide the final length according to the modeling needs, and the other branches at all levels leave one to three nodes, or two to four leaves. On the one hand, it is convenient to draw out more new branches and leaves in the future, making the branches more luxuriant, denser and healthier, and can also reduce the loss after operation. Lack of pruning or unreasonable pruning will only make the branchlets slender and weak, lack of short-node bifurcations. The same is true of root pruning to promote more fibrous root growth. Strong pruning can be carried out on tree species with strong germination and prosperous growth, such as elm, wolfbone, sparrow plum, etc., so that nutrients can be concentrated on several reserved branches, so that the new branches that germinate later will be stout and stronger than the original old branches. It is easier to shape, do not simply think that the old branches show the year and the posture is good, but it is a pity to trim them. Do not know that these branches will affect the growth, and it will be difficult to be satisfactory in the future. Only by updating can we have the prospect of development. Some evergreen coniferous trees with poor germination rate should be treated with caution.

In order to solve the balanced relationship and space in the picture, consider the modeling momentum of the tree, combined with the size and shape of the basin, do not force to plant in the middle of the basin (refers to the comprehensive ornamental bonsai).

Potted plant location

(1) the middle part of the tree top and the middle part of the basin are relatively standard planting.

(2) there is an imbalance between the tree and the basin, which seems to be top-heavy and light.

When planting, around the root, the root gap should be carefully put into the medium, tamped evenly, but not like rammed soil, such as plum blossom point tamping, watering maintenance, can also be water-absorbing irrigation.

If it is found that the stump is loose, it is necessary to find the reason, whether the root is not firmly planted in the shallow pot, or the hard root is supported at the top; whether the medium is too loose, or not pressed, and so on, to find out the reasons one by one. Tie up and down with thin iron wire to prevent loosening and affect the growth of fibrous roots, which is conducive to wound healing.

Tie the wire to prevent the trees from loosening

When planting, the spatial relationship between the facade and the plane should be considered, the place without branches and leaves on the facade is blank, and the place of basin table (basin) without trees and objects (grass, moss, stone, furnishings) is also blank, and the branches and leaves should be left behind. careful analysis and inspection will be made after planting, including all kinds of contrastive relations, and those who do not match the composition should be dealt with as they should be dealt with, and the purpose is to perfect the shape to highlight the main body. The surface soil is covered with moss, and the reasonable and elegant green velvet-like fresh moss plays a certain role in the picture, although "nothing" wins things, which greatly enhances the ornamental effect of the work and shows the sign of maturity, commonly known as the basin. Unlike the works that have just been put on the basin, they reveal the "fire" of the new soil, which seems to come from nature, not man-made tree stumps.

It can also be covered with dry long-haired moss and nailed with iron wire to reduce evaporation and basin soil scouring. The same is true for shredding pots, which can be removed after the roots of the trees are developed and the physical structure of the soil is reorganized. This method is used for the cultivation of bonsai, such as lifting root and dew root, and remove the cover after maturity to let it breed moss.

In general, for solitary bonsai, the treatment of potted noodles is relatively simple, only consider whether it is necessary to expose the roots, do not make other artistic decoration, and cover moss slightly lower than the mouth of the bonsai, so as to facilitate watering and fertilization in the future.

For the comprehensive ornamental bonsai, its planting is complex, there is no fixed pattern and position, and it should be decided according to the comprehensive conditions such as the thickness, height and posture of the stump, and the arrangement is either near or far, gathering or scattered, with thousands of changes. according to the primary and secondary contrast changes in the pot arrangement and comparison, repeated debugging, it is considered that it is good to cultivate the soil and prevent dislocation when adding soil and planting, even if the slightest movement is not good. In planting, we should focus on the main tree, and we should also consider the line of sight of the audience. The ups and downs of the basin surface of the group tree are determined according to the distribution of the tree stump. The topography under the main tree is higher and the area is larger; the topography under the guest tree is relatively lower and the area is small, and the topography of the main group is higher than that of the secondary group, and there is a trough between the two groups. Matching stones and recommendations also determine a variety of contrast changes according to the theme, and serve around the theme.

When planting hinders the long root or hard root, it is inconvenient to cut off and cannot be put in place, including the planting depth and posture angle, the root can be cut into a shape in a desirable position, which is about 1/2 of the root diameter, and the angle can be bent in the opposite direction (Fig. 4Muth138, Fig. 4Muth139). Stone slices are embedded in the opening, so that it can be planted without rebound, and the wound will heal slowly later.

The contents of the basin can not be incorporated into the hard root.

After the root is cut into a contract shape, it can be planted in the basin.

6. Planting location

For static, low-momentum trees are generally suitable for round, square pots, planted in the middle of the basin, in the middle of the basin to make the surrounding space balanced, there is a steady, tall and majestic, firm feeling.

For trees with momentum, such as tilting, it is not based on the position of the root in the middle of the basin, but on the decision that the top tip is in the middle of the basin, so that the root is sometimes in the back of the long basin near the corner of the basin. When the space in the basin loses the sense of balance, you will feel that the rest of the basin is obviously empty and loose, overwhelming the plants planted, and there is a sense of weightlessness. The loss of control in the plane space has affected the comparative changes in the size of the facade space. We have to borrow long branches and falling branches to enrich or adorn the terrain, and use rocks and grass to take balance.

The suitable planting position will add the expression of artistic conception, for example, the dynamic tree should break the balance and plant in the place away from the center, so that the momentum tends to the middle of the basin or out of the basin, the planting position is basically restricted by the shape of the stump, and the shape of the stump can determine the location of the plant. the two complement each other.

Dynamics of trees

(1) (4) small, motionless and absent-minded

(2) (3) sturdy and energetic

A number of trees are planted in a basin, disguised as deep mountains and old forests, and the main trees are planted in obvious positions and in the most prominent places, including paying attention to posture, and other trees, while the rest of the trees vary in number, gather and disperse, and change naturally. make sure that the left and right, front and back, up and down echo together to serve a shape as a whole, and the natural combination must not leave artificial traces. When planting, we should further verify the relationship between various changes and comparisons, so as to make the explanation more natural and overcome the problems of repetition and affectation. Otherwise, it will be rechecked after it is fully planted, and the rework will increase a lot of trouble, and even affect the growth quality.

Cultivate perfect modeling for a long time

(1) Young trees (2) Big trees

How to change the bonsai of tree stump

April is a good time to change bonsai pots. Potted trees grow in limited basin soil, after a certain number of years, the fertility is exhausted, the soil layer is hardened, the roots are densely distributed, squeeze each other, and it is difficult for new roots to grow. It is best to use a larger basin and fill it with new soil (it is also possible to change the soil without changing the basin). To ensure the normal growth of basin trees, experts are accustomed to "changing pots." The number of years of changing pots: flowers, once every other year; deciduous miscellaneous trees once every 3 years, pines and cypresses once every 3 years; according to tree age: miniature bonsai can be changed once a year because the pot is small, young trees can be changed once every 2 years, adult trees can be changed once every 2 years, and old trees can be changed once every 4 years. Change basin season: generally in the spring and autumn can be carried out, to spring is better. Spring is usually from late February to late April, and autumn is suitable from mid-October to mid-November, but the physiological characteristics of potted trees are different, and the changing season is also different, such as elm, cold and drought tolerance, can be carried out before and after Greater Cold; while Jiuli incense, Fujian tea, sparrow plum, fine leaf banyan and other common characteristics are warm and cold, and the time to change the basin should be carried out before and after the Qingming Festival. The method of changing the basin: before changing the basin, the soil should be slightly dry, the soil around the stump should be loosened with a bamboo stick, and the soil around the root system should be poured out with the mud, and the old soil around the root system should be removed with the bamboo stick, but the mud mass attached to the root system must be retained. The number of mud clumps retained should vary from tree to tree. About half of the pines and cypresses can be left, while most of the old soil can be removed from elms, stars, rhododendrons, gardenias and trees with fine roots that are easy to grow. Then cut off some of the aging beard roots to make new roots. Prepare dry mud or river mud before changing the basin and divide it into three kinds: coarse, medium and fine, the thick thumb is as big as the thumb, the drainage hole is covered with curved tiles, put the coarse soil at the bottom of the basin to facilitate drainage and ventilation, and put the pile trees in the appropriate position in the basin (the ratio of the tree to the edge of the basin should generally be 4:6 or 3:7, that is, it is better for the tree to lean slightly around the left and right side of the basin, and the slightly broken soil is placed around the root of the stump with the root firmly attached. Then cover the basin with thick soil, and use a bamboo stick to stick to the soil and compaction to stabilize the stump, then spray water with a spray can twice, the first time can be called fixed root water, in order to see the drainage hole at the bottom of the basin is limited to water seepage, and then drench it for a second time in about 15 minutes, make sure that the roots and branches are fully absorbed and placed in a cool shelter, and then water the tree once or twice a day. It will be moved to the open air to bask in the sun after a week, and no fertilizer can be applied within a month. For the stump that has just changed the pot, it is best to cut off all the leaves to reduce the evaporation of water. The changed basin must be washed. If you use the old basin, wash it first and dry it in the sun. If you use the newly purchased basin, soak it in water for a day or two, commonly known as "annealing", so that it can absorb water and reuse.

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