Planting methods of tree peony: cultivation time and techniques of tree peony

Peony cultivation can be used in sowing, plant division, grafting and other methods, of which plant division method is the most simple and easy to operate. Practice has proved that in order to make peony flourish and bloom every year, we must master the technical points of its separate cultivation skillfully.

The Cultivation Time of Tree Peony

Peony is a clump of shrubs, very suitable for ramets, but ramets can not be too early and too late. If the ramet is too early (before mid-September), due to the high temperature, it is easy to cause the terminal bud germination to consume nutrients, affecting the growth and flowering of the next year. If the plants are divided in spring, due to the warming weather, peony germinates rapidly and needs to consume a lot of water and nutrients. However, due to the root system not yet healed after the plant division, the water and fertilizer supply is not available, which not only causes the failure to bloom in the current year, but also causes the growth weakness and affects the flowering in the next year. If the plant is divided too late (after the beginning of winter), due to the low temperature, the root wound is difficult to heal, the new root cannot germinate in the same year, and a large amount of water and nutrients are needed for germination and flowering in the spring of the next year, but the root has not taken root or rarely takes root at this time, and it is easy to cause the plant wilting and death due to insufficient water and fertilizer supply. Practice has proved that the best time for peony to divide plants is from late September to mid-October. The root wounds of peony planted in this period are easy to heal and some new roots can grow quickly, which is very beneficial to flowering and rejuvenation in the coming year.

Cultivation Techniques of Peony by Plant Division

When dividing plants, we should select four or five years old plants with strong growth as mother plants, dig out the whole plants from the soil, keep the root system intact as far as possible, if there are broken roots, torn roots or poor black roots, cut them with sharp scissors; shake off the soil attached to the roots gently and dry them in the shade for two or three days. After the roots are dried and slightly softened, select the parts of the plants that are easy to divide, split them into several clusters with hands or sharp knives, each cluster should have three or four branches and two or three roots, apply charcoal powder to the wounds for preservation, and then plant them.

Whether it is planted in the ground or potted, choose a sandy loam with good drainage and fertility, which can be used after spraying and disinfection; put the plants trimmed into the pit or basin, and evenly add the prepared culture soil; when adding soil to the pit depth or 1/3 of the basin depth, gently lift the plants two or three centimeters, so that their roots can stretch freely, so that the culture soil penetrates into the rhizosphere and is closely connected with the soil. The planting depth is the same as the original planting depth of the plant, and the root neck is just exposed to the soil surface. It should not be too deep or too shallow. If the planting is too deep, the plant often grows poorly, the leaves are yellow, and the root system is easy to rot. If the planting is too shallow, the root neck is exposed, affecting the root and germination, and it is not resistant to drought and cold. Irrigation of cultivated peony in time to ensure that root water is thoroughly irrigated, so that root system can fully contact with cultivated soil.

In the cold winter areas of the north, the peony planted in the open field should pay attention to cold protection, and measures such as burying soil at the root neck or wrapping grass can be taken to protect against cold. The new planting peony must not be fertilized until it is gradually rejuvenated, otherwise it will backfire and easily lead to peony wilting and death due to fertilizer damage.

The cultivation techniques of peony can be used in sowing, dividing, grafting and other methods, among which the dividing method is the most simple and easy. Practice has proved that in order to make peony flourish and bloom every year, we must master the technical points of its separate cultivation skillfully.

The time of peony ramet cultivates peony is clump shape bush, suit ramet very much, but ramet cannot too early and too late. If the ramet is too early (before mid-September), due to the high temperature, it is easy to cause the terminal bud germination to consume nutrients, affecting the growth and flowering of the next year. If the plants are divided in spring, due to the warming weather, peony germinates rapidly and needs to consume a lot of water and nutrients. However, due to the root system not yet healed after the plant division, the water and fertilizer supply is not available, which not only causes the failure to bloom in that year, but also causes the growth weakness and affects the flowering in the next year. If the plant is divided too late (after the beginning of winter), due to the low temperature, the root wound is difficult to heal, new roots cannot germinate in the same year, and a large amount of water and nutrients are needed for germination and flowering in the spring of the next year, but the roots have not taken root or rarely take root at this time, and it is easy to cause wilting and death due to insufficient water and fertilizer supply. Practice has proved that the best time for peony to divide plants is from late September to mid-October. The root wounds of peony planted in this period are easy to heal and some new roots can grow quickly, which is very beneficial to flowering and rejuvenation in the coming year.

Peony plant division cultivation techniques should be selected when growing healthy four or five years old plants as mother plants, the whole plant dug out from the soil, try to maintain the integrity of the root system, such as broken roots, torn roots or poor growth of black roots, the application of Li shear to cut; will dig out peony seedlings gently shake off the soil attached to the roots, put in the shade for two or three days. After the roots are dried and slightly softened, select the parts of the plants that are easy to divide, split them into several clusters with hands or sharp knives, each cluster should have three or four branches and two or three roots, apply charcoal powder to the wounds for preservation, and then plant them.

Whether it is planted in the ground or potted, choose a sandy loam with good drainage and fertility, which can be used after spraying and disinfection; put the plants trimmed into the pit or basin, and evenly add the prepared culture soil; when adding soil to the pit depth or 1/3 of the basin depth, gently lift the plants two or three centimeters, so that their roots can stretch freely, so that the culture soil penetrates into the rhizosphere and is closely connected with the soil. The planting depth is the same as the original planting depth of the plant, and the root neck is just exposed to the soil surface. It should not be too deep or too shallow. If the planting is too deep, the plant often grows poorly, the leaves are yellow, and the root system is easy to rot. If the planting is too shallow, the root neck is exposed, affecting the root and germination, and it is not resistant to drought and cold. Irrigation of cultivated peony in time to ensure that root water is thoroughly irrigated, so that root system can fully contact with cultivated soil.

In the cold winter areas of the north, the peony planted in the open field should pay attention to cold protection, and measures such as burying soil at the root neck or wrapping grass can be taken to protect against cold. The new planting peony must not be fertilized until it is gradually rejuvenated, otherwise it will backfire and easily lead to peony wilting and death due to fertilizer damage. Cultivation techniques of peony in autumn

Peony is a famous woody flower in China, ranking first among the top ten famous flowers in China. For thousands of years, it has been endowed with a beautiful symbol of "wealth, good luck and prosperity". Peony can be propagated and cultivated by sowing, dividing, grafting and other methods, among which the dividing method is the most simple and feasible. Practice has proved that in order to make peony flourish and bloom every year, we must master the technical points of its separate cultivation skillfully.

The time of ramet cultivation peony is a cluster shrub, very suitable for ramet, but ramet can not be too early and too late. If the ramet is too early (before mid-September), due to the high temperature, it is easy to cause the terminal bud germination to consume nutrients, affecting the growth and flowering of the next year. If the plants are divided in spring, due to the warming weather, peony germinates rapidly and needs to consume a lot of water and nutrients. However, due to the root system not yet healed after the plant division, the water and fertilizer supply is not available, which not only causes the failure to bloom in that year, but also causes the growth weakness and affects the flowering in the next year. If the plant is divided too late (after the beginning of winter), due to the low temperature, the root wound is difficult to heal, new roots cannot germinate in the same year, and a large amount of water and nutrients are needed for germination and flowering in the spring of the next year, but the roots have not taken root or rarely take root at this time, and it is easy to cause wilting and death due to insufficient water and fertilizer supply. Practice has proved that the best time for peony to divide plants is from late September to mid-October. The root wounds of peony planted in this period are easy to heal and some new roots can grow quickly, which is very beneficial to flowering and rejuvenation in the coming year.

Dividing plant cultivation techniques When dividing plants, we should choose four or five years old plants that grow healthily as mother plants, dig out the whole plants from the soil, try to keep the roots intact, such as broken roots, torn roots or poor black roots, and cut them off with sharp scissors; The peony seedlings dug out should be gently shaken off the soil attached to the roots and dried in the shade for two or three days. After the roots are dried and slightly softened, select the parts of the plants that are easy to divide, split them into several clusters with hands or sharp knives, each cluster should have three or four branches and two or three roots, apply charcoal powder to the wounds for preservation, and then plant them.

Whether it is planted in the ground or potted, choose a sandy loam with good drainage and fertility, which can be used after spraying and disinfection; put the plants trimmed into the pit or basin, and evenly add the prepared culture soil; when adding soil to the pit depth or 1/3 of the basin depth, gently lift the plants two or three centimeters, so that their roots can stretch freely, so that the culture soil penetrates into the rhizosphere and is closely connected with the soil. The planting depth is the same as the original planting depth of the plant, and the root neck is just exposed to the soil surface. It should not be too deep or too shallow. If the planting is too deep, the plant often grows poorly, the leaves are yellow, and the root system is easy to rot. If the planting is too shallow, the root neck is exposed, affecting the root and germination, and it is not resistant to drought and cold. Irrigation of cultivated peony in time to ensure that root water is thoroughly irrigated, so that root system can fully contact with cultivated soil.

In the cold winter areas of the north, the peony planted in the open field should pay attention to cold protection, and measures such as burying soil at the root neck or wrapping grass can be taken to protect against cold. The new planting peony must not be fertilized until it is gradually rejuvenated, otherwise it will backfire and easily lead to peony wilting and death due to fertilizer damage.