Knowledge of disease and pest control of hyacinth

Knowledge of disease and pest control of hyacinth

The common diseases of hyacinth are bud rot, soft rot, Sclerotinia sclerotiorum and virus. Before planting, the matrix was strictly disinfected, the seed balls were selected and disinfected, and 1000 times of thalidomide or chlorothalonil was sprayed every 7 days during the growth period, which could inhibit the spread of bacteria to a certain extent. Strictly controlling the amount of water pouring, strengthening ventilation management, controlling the air relative humidity in the environment, and timely removal of central diseased plants can greatly reduce the incidence.

In order to prevent the occurrence of diseases during outdoor soil cold treatment, it is advisable to use fresh soil every year. In this way, there is no need for routine treatment of the soil.

If the soil has been used before, it can be used to pot or cover the bulbs. Routine soil disinfection is recommended before use to avoid the occurrence of Rhizoctonia. This conventional soil treatment is consistent with the soil treatment before tulip planting. In addition, you can refer to the conventional methods of soil treatment, and we suggest you consult the relevant local authorities.

If hyacinth bulbs are provided with a temperature of 9 ℃ immediately after planting, and the flower buds are completely exposed without covering the soil during cold treatment, it is not necessary to use fungicides to treat the bulbs.

Parasitic rotting

Part of the plant lies in the upper part of the inflorescence where the flower is rotten, known as "top rot", which is often accompanied by brown spots at the tip of the leaf. This decay is mostly caused by normally random parasites, including plants that begin to be infected after the florets are dried (physiological buds rot) or plants that have been pre-infected by parasitic buds (parasitic buds rot). The parasite can then cause the initial infection.

Rhizoctonia

The fungus begins to infect plants from contaminated soil, even before planting. The identification marks are irregularly shaped, bright brown jagged scars on some florets. The occurrence is slightly lighter on the outer leaves. The more serious infection is that the spots become larger, the leaf tips of the plants turn brown, and traces of cobweb-like fungal growth can be seen when planted in the greenhouse. This kind of infection often occurs regionally and intensifies when the soil temperature rises.

Prevention: often use new soil as basin soil. The infected soil is treated by conventional methods before use. Maintain the specified temperature in the natural cold treatment and rooting chamber.

Penicillium

It belongs to decay during storage, and the initial symptoms can be seen immediately before planting. The part of the root tip is dried up by fungal infection. When the base of the root is cut, the surrounding tissue can be seen to be light brown. Tissue of the same color can also be seen where the bulb falls off. The bulbs will continue to rot during storage and later planting. The buds of the infected bulbs are relatively short, and the bulbs themselves have little or no roots at all. Plants are easy to lodge.

This fungal infection also occurs in the injured part of the bulb. The infected part has white to turquoise fungal growth, and the underlying tissue becomes brown and soft, but this infection does not extend to the root disc and has no bad effect on flowering quality.

This infection is caused by different Penicillium such as P. verrucosum. "Pink Pearl" and its varieties are easy to be infected through the root tip. This infection mainly occurs in the low temperature storage room (below 17 ℃) and the humidity is higher than 70%. Another reason is caused by the injury of the seed ball.

Prevention and treatment: prevent precocious bud or root formation. Plant immediately after arrival (especially "Pink Pearl" and its variants). In the storeroom, the specified constant temperature should be maintained and the air should be ventilated. Keep humidity below 70% throughout storage.

Erwinia spp.

Soft rot, in the greenhouse, seriously infected bulbs no longer sprout. The bulb becomes soft and the tissue of the bulb is transparent and accompanied by white or yellow spots. These infected bulbs also give off an unpleasant smell. The disease with less serious infection is the formation of wet, dark green areas from the base of the leaves, which first hinders growth, then wilts the plant until it dies.

The disease is caused by Erwinia. Most of these bacteria are parasitic and mainly infect tissues that are frozen or overhydrated. When the temperature is too high or the soil is too wet, another form of infection is from the wounds where the precocious roots or bulbs peel off. This problem is mainly caused by too high or too wet soil temperature during natural cold treatment in autumn. "DelftBlue" and "Carnegie" are highly susceptible to infection. The disease is not contagious in the greenhouse, and although the infected tissue is usually butter-colored, the infection does not occur in other parts of the world.

Control methods: usually plant bulbs under the recommended conditions, that is, natural treatment or rooting chamber to keep low temperature (9 ℃), while not too wet. The infected bulbs and plants should be removed during planting and throughout the greenhouse period. This prevents Erwinia from spreading to nearby bulbs through irrigation water.

Physiological bud rot

The last floret was dehydrated because the cold treatment was too short. Whether it is sensitive to this kind of bud rot is determined by the size of different varieties and bulbs.

Control methods: ensure that the rooting chamber and natural treatment temperature of the planting bulb are kept at 9 ℃, and compensation measures should be used when the treatment is not 9 ℃. Do not move the seed ball indoors prematurely to provide the necessary cold treatment for each variety. Keep the constant temperature of 23-25 ℃ during the greenhouse period, and the temperature drop should not be more than 1-2 ℃ during the planting period, in order to avoid Penicillium infection caused by high relative humidity in greenhouse climate. Never water the inflorescence, especially in the final stage. Before transportation, if storage is not available, do not make the soil in the basin too wet and ensure adequate air circulation between the plants.

The top turns green

The florets at the top of some inflorescences remain green and, in severe cases, cover the top of the entire flower. Etiology: an imbalance caused by improper treatment of low temperature; such a result can be caused by too short or incorrect temperatures. Some varieties, such as "Pink Pearl" and its varieties and "Jan Bos", are more sensitive to this disorder than others.

Control method: after cultivation, operate according to the prescribed cold treatment period and low temperature.

Inflorescence askew

After the bulb was moved into the greenhouse, the uppermost growth of the hyacinth stem became askew. In large inflorescences of hyacinth, some flower stems and attached florets grow relatively faster than others, such as "Delft Blue" and its varieties, "Carnegie" and "L'Innocence". This trait is not what we expected, and this disorder is common in hyacinths planted earlier and in hyacinths with large inflorescences.

Control methods: after planting, use the prescribed cold treatment and low temperature standards. Keeping a slightly lower greenhouse temperature (18-17 ℃) can also prevent inflorescence skew.

Apical flowering

Unlike the normal growth state, the florets at the top bloom earlier than those in the lower parts. The inflorescences of such flowers are usually short and robust. This imbalance is caused by the lack of the necessary cold treatment of the variety before moving the plant into the house. Each breed has different sensitivity to this disease.

Control methods: after planting, operate according to the prescribed cold treatment and low temperature standards.

Grey mold disease

In the early stage of the disease, the susceptible leaf tip changed color, and the leaf wrinkled and rotted. Under cold and wet conditions, the flowers also rot. In the later stage of the disease, the disease produced gray mildew layer and black sclerotia. The pathogen overwintered with sclerotia in the disease residue and soil, and the conidia were produced under suitable conditions, and the conidia were infected by wind and rain. Low temperature and high humidity are beneficial to the occurrence of diseases.

Prevention and cure method

Chemical control: at the initial stage of the disease, spray 1ve1ve100 Bordeaux solution, or 65% Dyson zinc wettable powder 1000-fold solution, or 50% benzoate wettable powder 1000-fold solution, or spotted rust clear 800-1000 times liquid spray control.

Root nodule disease

Hyacinth root swelling disease is also called root nodule disease. The root system is normal at the beginning, when it elongates to a certain degree, it produces small white tumor, the growth weakens, and sometimes the floret dry rot occurs, which affects the growth and development, and the whole plant dies when it is serious.

Prevention and cure method

During the storage period, strictly disinfect and sterilize, pay attention to strengthen ventilation, check frequently, turn over frequently, and pick up the diseased plants and burn them in time.

Strictly carry out soil disinfection and sterilization, no continuous cropping, no repeated application of cultivated soil.

The diseased plants were removed in time during cultivation, and the soil was disinfected and sterilized.

Strict quarantine, do not make disease ball disease plant eight nursery.

Diseases and insect pests of grape hyacinth and its control

Damage characteristics of grape hyacinth smut

Powdery mildew mainly harms the flowers of grape hyacinth and seriously affects its beauty.

Prevention and cure

It can be sprayed with 1000 times of topazine wettable powder for control.

Damage characteristics of yellow rot of grape hyacinth

At first, disease spots appear near the veins of the affected plants, which are flooded, and then the spots appear yellow or brown. For the endangered bulb, its interior will be filled with yellow mucus and then rot.

Prevention and cure

It is necessary to start prevention and control at the beginning of planting, choose a more robust seed ball, disinfect it and then plant it into the soil, you can disinfect it with formalin solution. When suffering from diseases, 50% carbendazim 1000 times solution can be sprayed to control the disease.

Damage characteristics of Sclerotinia sclerotiorum in grape

The main pathogen of Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is bulb invasion, which harms the leaves of grape hyacinth and makes them appear yellow spots or stripes.

Prevention and cure

Like yellow rot, choose strong and disease-free bulbs and disinfect the soil before. you can mix pentachloronitrobenzene with potted soil, mix well, and then plant the bulbs. In addition, as far as the plant is concerned, it is necessary to observe a lot. Once a diseased plant is found, it should be pulled out in time, and then buried deeply or burned, so as to prevent and harm the plant again.

Generally speaking, there are few diseases and insect pests in grape hyacinth, but it still needs careful management and care, so that it will be more healthy and beautiful.

What are the common diseases and insect pests of hyacinth

Hyacinth is a perennial herb in the hyacinth genus of the hyacinth family, and it is also one of the plants that many people like very much. Many people may have planted hyacinth at home, so how much can we know about the diseases and insect pests of hyacinth? The following is to introduce the common diseases and insect pests of hyacinth and their control methods.

1. Rhizoctonia

The fungus begins to infect plants from contaminated soil, even before planting. The identification marks are irregularly shaped, bright brown jagged scars on some florets. The occurrence is slightly lighter on the outer leaves. The more serious infection is that the spots become larger, the leaf tips of the plants turn brown, and traces of cobweb-like fungal growth can be seen when planted in the greenhouse. This kind of infection often occurs regionally and intensifies when the soil temperature rises.

Prevention and treatment: new soil is often used as basin soil. The infected soil is treated by conventional methods before use. Maintain the specified temperature in the natural cold treatment and rooting chamber.

two。 Penicillium

It belongs to decay during storage, and the initial symptoms can be seen immediately before planting. The part of the root tip is dried up by fungal infection. When the base of the root is cut, the surrounding tissue can be seen to be light brown. Tissue of the same color can also be seen where the bulb falls off. The bulbs will continue to rot during storage and later planting. The buds of the infected bulbs are relatively short, and the bulbs themselves have little or no roots at all. Plants are easy to lodge.

This fungal infection also occurs in the injured part of the bulb. The infected part has white to turquoise fungal growth, and the underlying tissue becomes brown and soft, but this infection does not extend to the root disc and has no bad effect on flowering quality.

This infection is caused by different Penicillium such as P.verrucosum. "PinkPearl" and its varieties are easy to be infected through the root tip. This infection mainly occurs in the low temperature storage room (below 17 ℃) and the humidity is higher than 70%. Another reason is caused by the injury of the seed ball.

Prevention and treatment: prevent precocious bud or root formation. Plant immediately after arrival (especially "PinkPearl" and its variants). In the storeroom, the specified constant temperature should be maintained and the air should be ventilated. Keep humidity below 70% throughout storage.

3. Erwinia spp.

Soft rot, in the greenhouse, seriously infected bulbs no longer sprout. The bulb becomes soft and the tissue of the bulb is transparent and accompanied by white or yellow spots. These infected bulbs also give off an unpleasant smell. The disease with less serious infection is the formation of wet, dark green areas from the base of the leaves, which first hinders growth, then wilts the plant until it dies.

The disease is caused by Erwinia. Most of these bacteria are parasitic and mainly infect tissues that are frozen or overhydrated. When the temperature is too high or the soil is too wet, another form of infection is from the wounds where the precocious roots or bulbs peel off. This problem is mainly caused by too high or too wet soil temperature during natural cold treatment in autumn. "DelftBlue" and "Carnegie" are highly susceptible to infection. The disease is not contagious in the greenhouse, and although the infected tissue is usually butter-colored, the infection does not occur in other parts of the world.

Control methods: usually plant bulbs under the recommended conditions, that is, natural treatment or rooting chamber to keep low temperature (9 ℃), while not too wet. The infected bulbs and plants should be removed during planting and throughout the greenhouse period. This prevents Erwinia from spreading to nearby bulbs through irrigation water.

4. Physiological bud rot

The last floret was dehydrated because the cold treatment was too short. Whether it is sensitive to this kind of bud rot is determined by the size of different varieties and bulbs.

Control methods: ensure that the rooting chamber and natural treatment temperature of the planting bulb are kept at 9 ℃, and compensation measures should be used when the treatment is not 9 ℃. Do not move the seed ball indoors prematurely to provide the necessary cold treatment for each variety. Keep the constant temperature of 23-25 ℃ during the greenhouse period, and the temperature drop should not be more than 1-2 ℃ during the planting period, in order to avoid Penicillium infection caused by high relative humidity in greenhouse climate. Never water the inflorescence, especially in the final stage. Before transportation, if storage is not available, do not make the soil in the basin too wet and ensure adequate air circulation between the plants.

5. The top turns green

The florets at the top of some inflorescences remain green and, in severe cases, cover the top of the entire flower. Etiology: an imbalance caused by improper treatment of low temperature; such a result can be caused by too short or incorrect temperatures. Some varieties, such as "PinkPearl" and its varieties and "JanBos", are more sensitive to this disorder than others.

Control method: after cultivation, operate according to the prescribed cold treatment period and low temperature.

6. Inflorescence askew

After the bulb was moved into the greenhouse, the uppermost growth of the hyacinth stem became askew. In large inflorescences of hyacinth, some flower stems and attached florets grow relatively faster than others, such as "DelftBlue" and its varieties, "Carnegie" and "L'Innocence". This trait is not what we expected, and this disorder is common in hyacinths planted earlier and in hyacinths with large inflorescences.

Control methods: after planting, use the prescribed cold treatment and low temperature standards. Keeping a slightly lower greenhouse temperature (18-17 ℃) can also prevent inflorescence skew.

7. Apical flowering

Unlike the normal growth state, the florets at the top bloom earlier than those in the lower parts. The inflorescences of such flowers are usually short and robust. This imbalance is caused by the lack of the necessary cold treatment of the variety before moving the plant into the house. Each breed has different sensitivity to this disease.

Control methods: after planting, operate according to the prescribed cold treatment and low temperature standards.

8. Grey mold disease

In the early stage of the disease, the susceptible leaf tip changed color, and the leaf wrinkled and rotted. Under cold and wet conditions, the flowers also rot. In the later stage of the disease, the disease produced gray mildew layer and black sclerotia. The pathogen overwintered with sclerotia in the disease residue and soil, and the conidia were produced under suitable conditions, and the conidia were infected by wind and rain. Low temperature and high humidity are beneficial to the occurrence of diseases.

Prevention and control methods: reduce the source of infection: timely removal of diseased flowers, diseased leaves, centralized destruction. Chemical control: at the initial stage of the disease, spray 1ve1v 100 Bordeaux solution, or 65% Dyson zinc wettable powder 500,800x, or 50% benzoate wettable powder 1000 times, or spotted rust clear 800ml spray.

9. Root nodule disease

Hyacinth root swelling disease is also called root nodule disease. The root system is normal at the beginning, when it elongates to a certain degree, it produces small white tumor, the growth weakens, and sometimes the floret dry rot occurs, which affects the growth and development, and the whole plant dies when it is serious.

Prevention and treatment methods: strict disinfection and sterilization during storage, pay attention to strengthen ventilation, check frequently, turn over frequently, pick up diseased plants and burn them in time. Strictly carry out soil disinfection and sterilization, no continuous cropping, no repeated application of cultivated soil. The diseased plants were removed in time during cultivation, and the soil was disinfected and sterilized. Strict quarantine, do not make disease ball disease plant eight nursery.

The above is for you to introduce hyacinth common diseases and insect pests and control methods, hope to help you, more household knowledge, please pay attention.