The origin and cultivation history of hyacinth

Origin and Cultivation History of Hyacinth

Hyacinth is native to the northeastern Mediterranean and has a long history of cultivation dating back to the 15th century. For more than 300 years, hyacinth has been a favorite flower breeding object of European horticultural plant breeders, aiming to cultivate novel colors, double flowers and large and beautiful flowers. The number of hyacinth cultivars peaked at the end of the 19th century and declined over the next 100 years as many cultivars were lost. The remaining hyacinth resources were preserved thanks to the efforts of hyacinth enthusiasts Alan Shipp and others, who established the hyacinth germplasm collection center in Lithuania.

Hyacinths were originally grown in gardens as plants from Turkey. After conquering Istanbul in 1453, the Turkish Muslim king Mohammed II took a liking to hyacinth cultivation. 1520-1566 The Ottoman rulers also liked to plant hyacinths, tulips, and many other bulbs in 1800. Due to the influence of imperial aristocrats 'love of planting, hyacinth soon spread from Turkey to Czech Slovakia, Hungary, Austria, France and other European countries. In 1613, a book published in Germany, Hortus Eystettensis, published a picture of hyacinth with double petals for the first time. In 1622, a book published in Paris, France, Theatrum Florae, contained pictures of hyacinth with blue, white and double petals. In 1629, Paradisus Terrestris, published in England, contained six different hyacinth pictures, two of which were double petals. Later, the yellow hyacinth variety was transmitted from Russia to England.

By the end of the 17th century, when tulip cultivation began to decline in Holland, Dutch breeders began to turn their attention to breeding other flowers. The surrounding area centered on Haarlem in the Netherlands has become an important area for hyacinth cultivation and new variety selection. The local sandy loam is rich in organic matter, and the groundwater level is only 0.6-1 meter high from the ground surface, which is very suitable for hyacinth growth. The hyacinth variety improved greatly in Holland, and photographs from the early 18th century show that hyacinths had a maximum of 10-15 flowers per stem, rising to as many as 60 flowers per stem by the end of the 18th century. Although trade in hyacinths never exceeded the number of tulips, each new hyacinth variety artificially selected sold for a high price. For example, the double-flowered variety 'King of Great Britan', discovered by Peter Voerhelm in the 18th century, was a very profitable variety, selling for £ 100 per bulb.

In the 18th century, a red-flowered hyacinth on Dutch plantations budded into a pale blue variety, which was so rare at the time that it was said that the discoverer feared losing the species and hung it from the ceiling in a cage until planting season. The mutant was preserved and named 'La Unique', which became the parent of many later varieties of pale blue hyacinth. Hyacinths mutated to produce a variety of colored flowers, and the increasing number of cultivars contributed to the development of the hyacinth industry in the 19th century.

in 1838 Charles M. Intosh describe in his book flower garden that more than 2000 hyacinth cultivar were cultivated by Dutch florists. that book lists more than 200 varieties of hyacinth in a variety of colors, including yellow, purple, white, red, and blue. some of the double-flowered cultivars have dark flower centers, but today only single-flowered varieties are commercially cultivated.

There are dark flowers.

During this period, special glass containers filled with water were popular for growing hyacinths, and Victoria glass containers for growing hyacinths are now objects of antique collectors. To this day, hyacinths are still grown in glass bottles to show children how plants take root and sprout.

In the 20th century, hyacinth cultivation declined sharply after its peak. World War I had a serious impact on the world horticultural flower industry and led to the loss of many hyacinth cultivars. The subsequent World War II continued the decline of the horticulture industry, and by the 1970s, hyacinth production worldwide had reached its lowest point, with flower suppliers having only 50 or so hyacinth cultivars available for cultivation, most of which were better cultivated in the 17th century. From the 1950s to the 1970s, only about 10 new hyacinth cultivars were developed worldwide.

For decades people seemed to lose interest in breeding new hyacinths or retrieving lost ones. Fortunately, a farmer named Alan Shipp is trying to change this situation. He is collecting and breeding all hyacinth cultivars, studying unnamed varieties, and trying to expand the use of hyacinth. He is today the only supplier of flowers that can supply a wide variety of Victoria hyacinth cultivars, and Allen's work has been enthusiastically assisted by many hyacinth enthusiasts, greatly increasing his collection of hyacinth varieties.

In March 1997, an unexpected letter from Rita Riziulyte, head of the Vilnius Flower Research Station in Lithuania, informed him that about 60 hyacinth cultivars had been collected and preserved at the station. Allen later learned that thirty-eight of them were varieties he had not collected, some of which had disappeared from Western Europe for more than fifty years. Some of these 60 varieties are listed in the International Variety Registry of Hyacinth, while others are not listed in the catalogue documents of 18th and 19th centuries. Among them, the most shocking one for Allen is a variety called 'Sunflower''Sunflower', and a mysterious yellow double-flowered variety; and nineteen named but unrecorded varieties whose original records are being sought from Western literature and whose varietal characteristics will eventually be assessed by field trials.

Hyacinths are easy to grow and only need plenty of light to grow. In the spring garden, hyacinth flower color and fragrance produces decorative effect is unmatched by many flowers, since Lithuania exciting new varieties of hyacinth will herald increased interest in hyacinth, and inspire people to pursue this horticultural flower world treasure.

How to plant hyacinth seed ball? Introduction to planting method of hyacinth seed ball

Hyacinth, also known as daffodil, is a perennial herbaceous flower. Its varieties are very many, common red, yellow, blue, purple, white, etc., origin in the Netherlands, at present all parts of our country have cultivation. Its flowers are bright and fragrant, and it is an excellent flower variety for arranging flower beds, lawn edges, courtyards, etc. Those who have planted hyacinths know that hyacinths are cultivated with seed balls, generally planted in late autumn and early winter, and there are two forms of soil culture and hydroponics. The following small series will introduce you to how to plant hyacinth balls?

soil culture method

1. ball-handlers

Before the ball is planted, it should be disinfected, otherwise it will cause mildew, especially soil.

Buy the disinfectant and mix it into a 1:1000 solution (also make sure to be accurate)

Disinfection treatment, the ball first brown skin peeled off, the mildew spots on the epidermis washed clean, there is a larger area, and then peeled off the skin.

The lateral seed ball is removed from the ball edge, leaving it will consume the nutrition of the flower ball.

Wash, soak the ball in disinfectant for about half an hour, and then take it out to dry. after disinfection, prepare to plant, soak in water, and it will take root.

2. Pot selection

Soil and potted plants. Hyacinth seeds are planted in 8-10 cm diameter pots and 3-4 balls in 20 cm diameter pots.

3. planting depth

Soil seeds, balls buried in the soil surface row, 1 -2 mm.

4. fertilizer

Hyacinth bulbs like soil with plenty of phosphorus and potassium, so before planting, if you put buds and refined bone meal on the bottom of the pot, you will make them grow very well.

5. Rooting and sprouting

Hyacinth and other bulbous plants, rooting needs a lower temperature, generally around 10 degrees, rooting about 14 days, after planting directly on the open balcony on the line. So after planting, I found that there has been no movement, in fact, do not worry, at this time the roots have grown long. Rooting period is best covered with paper shell or cover a paper tube, so that the primary buds do not see light, can prevent neck contraction disease, neck contraction disease refers to hyacinth flower stems do not grow, long is not high, stuck in the middle of flowering, two weeks later can be removed.

6. watering

No watering until it sprouts. There are no rules for watering plants. Hyacinth requires relatively large amounts of water, especially during vegetative growth and flowering. During this period, under the premise of ensuring sufficient direct light and soil water, it can keep the soil moist, that is, the soil surface is dry and watered thoroughly.

If the direct light is poor, the watering time can be extended appropriately. When watering, be careful not to irrigate the leaves.

7. conservation flowering

Low temperature to promote root growth, then slightly higher temperature long leaves, and finally have a higher temperature and sufficient sunlight, can stem and leaf plump, lush flowers. Hyacinth is more cold-resistant, there must be sufficient direct light during the day, otherwise the plant will grow, serious will not bloom.

When flowering, 4 hours a day in bright light. The rest of the day can be enjoyed indoors. Generally, it takes about 50-60 days from planting to flowering.

8. flower treatment

The hyacinth of soil seed, if nutrition keeps up, can continue to bloom in the second year. After flowering, cut the stem half way down to prevent rot. Continue to fertilize, keep green leaves growing and accumulate nutrients. Water must be careful not to water the ball. When June is approaching, gradually reduce the amount of watering, wait until the leaves are yellow, dig out the balls, soak them in 0.1% carbendazim solution for 40 minutes, dry them, wrap them in paper, put them in the refrigerator, and wait until the next round of planting.

hydroponic method

Disinfection is also required before hydroponics.

After disinfection, special hyacinth hydroponic bottle does not need to put pebbles, if it is a jar, put pebbles, tap water is best to put overnight reuse, the ball on the bottle or pebbles.

Note: the chassis of the ball (that is, the rooting site) to 1~2 mm from the water surface, the ball can not enter the water, otherwise it will cause decay. The ball will sense moisture and will take root. This is if there is a root promoter to promote the root growth of the drug can be mixed with water to use, the ratio of 1:1000 or so, during the root promotion period, placed in the dark to make roots, about 2 weeks will grow a lot of white roots, 1 month true leaves began to pull out the flower stem, then you need to put enough light, let it grow.

Remove the dark place does not need to use the root promoter, then you can replace the beautiful crystal soil planting, with soaked crystal soil, dry instead of water into the hydroponic bottle, at the same time can add appropriate liquid nutrients to promote its flowering. The water in the bottle is generally replaced once every 2 to 3 days, with overnight tap water.

Growing environment:

1. After planting hyacinth seed bulbs, move them into a rooting room for rooting, and the rooting period takes 8-10 weeks. Under normal circumstances, the temperature of the rooting room is kept at 9℃, the planting soil is kept moist, and the indoor air humidity is about 95%. If the air humidity is low, water can be poured on the ground to increase the relative humidity.

2. Management of greenhouse period: After completing the cold treatment required for rooting, hyacinth can be moved into greenhouse. The suitable temperature for hyacinth in greenhouse is 17-25℃, and the growth time is about 3 weeks. However, the temperature of domestic solar greenhouse is generally low, and the growth period of greenhouse may be extended to about 30 days. The humidity of indoor air shall not be lower than 80%, the soil shall be kept moist and irrigated in the morning on sunny days. If there are conditions, 24 hours of supplementary light to prevent abnormal, pale weak flowers. Like tulips, hyacinths can be sold as soon as the bulbs have taken root. Because the flower ear has been unearthed at this time, as long as it can grow and bloom indoors at the right temperature, attention should be paid to proper watering. Hyacinths do not need to be fertilized during growth.

3, storage hyacinth is not suitable for storage at low temperature, but if it must be stored, it must be carried out after the floret is separated, maintain a temperature of 0.5-1 ° C, ensure air circulation, and can be stored under this condition for 2-3 weeks.

The above is the detailed planting method of hyacinth seed ball. If you want to plant hyacinth, you can refer to it. Hyacinths need plenty of sun exposure, but they should not be exposed to sunlight. Can be placed under other relatively large plants, let the sun scattered radiation; then pay attention to put it in a well-ventilated place, rainy days do not water, just keep the soil on the pot surface is not dry, do not over-water. Understand the planting process of hyacinth seed ball, still worry about planting hyacinth friends quickly serve your hyacinth.

Hyacinth flowers after the re-flowering old Li hyacinth 8 years, to talk about their own cultivation experience for many years. This kind of plant flowers every year in its place of origin, but it is easy to degenerate after arriving in China. Therefore, it is still imported every year. It can be produced in a few places in China, but the yield is far from enough. Here we should prevent two kinds of phenomena, one is that it can only be used once, and the other is that it can bloom again if it can be managed extensively.

First of all, the Mediterranean climate of origin is mild and rainy in winter and cool and dry in summer. Water is the main factor that affects plant dormancy. So hyacinth, tulips, all kinds of daffodils, saffron, anemone, buttercup and so on, all grow in winter and dormant in summer. Of course, because there is still a slightly colder season in winter, natural balls still have to go through vernalization (cold environment) before they can blossom. The balls we planted are basically refrigerated, so we can blossom without vernalization, and should be able to blossom again after normal flowering, just like the place of origin. But the time after flowering is the time for the rapid growth of plant bulbs, there are two factors that must be faced, one ignored, it may lead to degradation. One is the length of time from flowering to leaf withering. The country of origin starts flowering in mid-February, and the bulbs are fully grown and renewed at the beginning of March (some are updated every three years, such as hyacinths: some are like tulips that are renewed every year). The high temperature did not begin until mid-June or the end of June, and the bulbs grew rapidly during this period. Under the natural conditions in most parts of China, the flowers began to bloom in the middle of March, and the bulb began to grow after April. The temperature rose rapidly after May, and the leaves withered and yellowed at most in late May, resulting in the termination of half of the bulb growth, of course. The other is nutrition, of course, the nutrition of hydroponics is not enough, even if it is buried in the soil after flowering, it is inevitable to lose its roots, and even if it continues to root, it is difficult to adapt to the soil. In addition, the nutrition of potted plants is not enough, we should know that the root system is more than 50cm, so we have to add sufficient amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in the pot soil, apply nitrogen fertilizer several times after germination, and apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to yellow leaves several times after flowering. Temperature is also very important when planting balls after yellow leaves. I found that hyacinths and daffodils are not very sensitive. Tulips must be stored below 25 ℃, otherwise flower bud differentiation is obviously reduced and seed buds become more. In the second year, there were more balls but did not grow up, and the degradation was more serious. There are also diseases and insect pests that can also cause degradation, which will not be repeated here. In view of the above factors, corresponding countermeasures can be taken to ensure that there is no degradation or less degradation, at least it will take more than three years. First, try to prolong the growth time from post-anthesis to pre-wilting. Under the condition of ensuring temperature adaptation, plant as early as possible, especially natural balls. The suitable temperature for tulips to take root is 6 ℃-9 ℃ (soil temperature). Hyacinths are similar or slightly higher, and daffodils can be higher. Keep this temperature for at least a month before autumn in order to grow enough roots. On the contrary, daffodils spend the summer in high temperatures. There are also problems of mildew and decay easily in summer, mainly caused by lax disinfection, moist air and poor ventilation, so don't think that you can put them anywhere. A little experience is to load balls with silk stockings eliminated by your wife and hang them in a cool and ventilated place. Of course, carbendazim was used before soaking for an hour and drying. Lao Li planted more than a hundred, so he was reluctant to throw it away, so he delved into it. In fact, the degradation of hyacinth is still slow, even if the degradation is not easily thrown away, the next year can still blossom, but the flowers will become less. Lao Li's hyacinth has the third generation. However, tulips are so degraded that if they are not well managed, the flowering rate will be less than 40% the following year. If you want to make the hyacinth blossom smoothly, you should also pay attention to: 1. The flower stem of hyacinth can be cut off from half the height to prevent it from rotting down due to being cut too low. After the leaves withered, in fact, the flower buds have not yet completed their development, so the cold natural bulbous buds are not unearthed immediately before spring, requiring a low temperature of less than 5 ℃ for more than 45 days (ground planting can bear-40 ℃ low temperature), and then raise the temperature as soon as possible to strive for early flowering. After refrigerated bulb treatment, it can be raised to more than 15 ℃ to promote flowering, which can bloom in 58 days, so that it can be finished by the end of February, so as to gain a precious one-month long ball period. After May, the temperature rises again, the sun illuminates strongly, the ground planting should be shaded, reduce the temperature as far as possible to prolong the retention time of green leaves, potted plants can be moved to a shady place. There is Rain Water at this time, we should pay attention to cover the rain, otherwise the stagnant water in the heart of the leaf is very prone to stem rot (rotten ball). Second, to maintain an adequate supply of fertilizer, as mentioned earlier, I will not repeat it. Third, disinfection when planting is very important, not only the ball should be disinfected with fungicides, but also the soil should be disinfected. It is best to add carbofuran or iron to kill nematodes. The fourth is the problem of high dryness over the summer. Hyacinths are fine, foreign daffodils can still stay in the soil for summer, tulips must be less than 25%, and China is hidden. It can be disinfected and dried, keeping the temperature of 20 ℃ from June, so that the flower bud can complete its later development. Before cultivation, it can be planted after 45 days of cold storage (5 ℃, that is, the temperature of the freezer). As mentioned earlier, the ground temperature should be 6 ℃-9 ℃ when planting, and hyacinths can be raised to 11 ℃, but not more than 15 ℃. 2. Water cut off is a gradual process, and one principle is to ensure that the leaves are green for a longer time as far as possible, so timely watering is very important. In the early stage after flower shedding, the plant bulb expands rapidly, and the water demand actually needs to be increased. At this time, it needs to be fully watered, but not stagnant water. But also appropriate fertilization, the best is 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution once every 10 days. Water cut off should be carried out after May, first extend the watering interval, and then water a small amount after being dry, and then pilling 10 days after the water is cut off in June (it is better not to be caught in the rain at this time). 3. After digging the ball, the root is already aging, it can be picked by hand, and the yellow leaves are also removed by the way. Hang it for more than ten days, then soak it in 0.1% carbendazim solution for 40 minutes, pick it up and hang it in a dry bag. Be careful not to touch the outer layer and check it once a week.