How to plant hyacinth seeds?
Hyacinth is native to southern Europe, southern Africa and Asia. It is cultivated most in Holland and is cultivated all over China. It can be used to arrange fine perennial flowers on the edge of flower beds and lawns in spring, as well as potted, water-raised or cut flowers. Let's take a look at how to plant hyacinth seeds.
Preparation for planting hyacinth
1. Prepare a basin of water. It is recommended that the basin not be too big. Of course, the depth of the water should be able to drown each ball.
2. Each serving is equipped with a bag of carbendazim powder, and there are instructions on the back of the package. Each bag is mixed with water. I personally have no idea of weight. I have tried carbendazim solutions with different concentrations, and there is no problem. Therefore, it is suggested that you can pour about half a bag or a little more than half a bag. If the basin is relatively large, you can pour more. But no matter how much you pour, please keep a small amount, which may be used during the growing period.
Disinfection treatment of hyacinth seeds
1. Peeling. Some friends will worry about why the skin fell off when they first received the ball, but there is no problem at all, just like onions, the old skin will be peeled off, and I will peel off some more until it is white. Of course you don't have to peel it off. There's no problem in theory.
2. Clean the bottom of the ball. The old roots at the bottom of the bulb and a layer of bulbs from last year won't make any difference, but if hydroponic, these things can make the water dirty and unsightly.
3. About mildew. Things drifting across the sea will inevitably carry some mold, some may not be obvious, and some will be hidden under several layers of old skin. This is why I have to peel off more layers of old skin in the first article. I have one like this in my hand. But this does not affect its growth and flowering at all. in fact, this layer of mold has not eroded into the fresh bulbs inside, and it will be gone after it is washed off. If some friends get that the coccidia in their hands is more severe than mine, please don't worry, even if you peel off a few layers of fresh bulbs, it will not affect the flowering.
4. Soak in carbendazim solution for 15 minutes. I hope to make a comparative observation of different varieties in the process of planting. I don't want to confuse the labels, so I arranged the labels in the order in which the balls were placed outside the pot. We can use other methods for reference only.
5. Dry. After soaking, pick it up, wipe it with a water-absorbing cloth towel (paper towel), and then place it in a cool and ventilated place to dry naturally, and you can plant it in a pot after 1 day.
Planting method of hyacinth seed
1. Lateral buds: most plants propagate by seeds, but hyacinths propagate nutritionally and breed the next generation by dividing balls. Hyacinth this season, with lateral buds (small balls) is very normal, especially we have several varieties of relatively large specifications, there will be a few balls with one or two or even five or six lateral buds. Personally, it is suggested that beginners can erase the lateral buds and discard them completely, because in our domestic climate, it is almost impossible to cultivate a hyacinth ball into a flowering ball in the natural environment. But if you have good planting experience and hardware facilities, you can save it for cultivation and breeding. Personally, I didn't have the ability and interest to cultivate the ball, so I took it off.
2. Hydroponics: hydroponics is convenient and sanitary. Friends who live in suites and pursue petty bourgeoisie sentiment suggest hydroponics, as long as a cup is fine, the mouth of the cup should not be too big, and to be able to hold the sphere, professional hydroponics bottles are of course the best, and hydroponics baskets are also good. My cup is just to give you a demonstration. You can't choose such a small cup, ha, it will restrict the root system growth. And water training baskets have different sizes to choose from.
3. Water quantity: I believe that many friends have cultivated daffodils in water. Daffodils are placed in a shallow basin, fixed with balls and pebbles, and then soaked in water. Of course, I personally do not totally object to this method, but I hope that everyone can avoid it. Hyacinth may rot more easily than domestic Zhangzhou daffodils, so the water should not flood the sphere during hydroponics, and it is appropriate for the water surface to touch the bottom of the sphere.
4. Add water and change water: some friends ask if they want to change water, which is also a problem often encountered by many friends in hydroponics. In fact, hydroponic plants should not change water too hard, so as not to hurt their roots. After a few days, the water evaporates, and when the water surface falls, you can add water appropriately, or even ignore it when a small amount of water falls. This glass of water evaporates enough humidity in such a small space to take root. When the root growth begins to return to normal, the water surface can continue to drop properly and soak to about 2 beat 3 of the root. When changing water, especially when the root system has grown, it is best not to take out the whole sphere, otherwise it will more or less hurt when you pull the root back into the bottle. Only need to lift the sphere slightly, there is a gap to let the water flow out of the OK, and when adding water, slowly pour the water into the gap.
5. Soil culture: traditional soil culture is believed to be the mainstream of flower potted plants. Hyacinth, like the Zhangzhou daffodils we are familiar with, is a sphere that has been stored for many years, and a cup of water is enough for it to blossom. So soil culture, even if there are only small pots and a small amount of soil, will not greatly affect flowering. Of course, we do not recommend that you use too small flowerpots so as not to limit their root growth. This is one of the flowerpots I use, which is quite large for hyacinth. Don't forget to plug the hole in the basin before filling. When adding soil, you should pay attention to fill half of the soil first, then put on the hyacinth, and then continue to fill until more than half of the sphere is covered. As for how much it shows above, you can like it, but I personally suggest that beginners had better leave a little more, because hyacinths grow up, the sphere may crack, or it may become moldy again because of incomplete disinfection. We can directly see that many people cover the sphere when filling the soil, but in the end the flowers did not bloom and the ball was rotten when dug up. At this time, the little bit of carbendazim we left during disinfection can come in handy. We can adjust another solution and wipe the mildew area of the sphere with a dipping solution such as a cotton swab, so as to minimize the possibility of mildew.
6. Watering: watering should be carried out for the first time after putting on the basin. In my basin, the amount of water needed is about a full cup of this kind of cup. Don't water too much, the ball will rot. The same is true when watering in the later stage. It is better to dry than wet, about a small cup a week is OK. The sphere is full of water, and you won't die because you don't water it for a week or two, so please relax when you visit relatives during the Spring Festival.
7. Fertilization: I use the nutritious soil I bought, so I don't plan to apply fertilizer for the time being. If the soil nutrients on hand are not enough, it is recommended to apply base fertilizer, except pure nitrogen fertilizer, other fertilizers can be selected. I think it is better to plant indoor potted plants with granular fertilizer to avoid unnecessary diseases and insect pests and stench caused by the application of self-made organic fertilizer. The order of fertilizer and soil from bottom to top is: soil-fertilizer-soil-ball, be sure to separate fertilizer and hyacinth sphere, avoid sitting fertilizer (concept please Baidu). In the later stage of fertilization, beginners still use it with caution, and the sphere itself is nutritious enough for flowering. Abuse of nutrient solution is not recommended in hydroponics.
8. Shading (dark treatment): hyacinth spheres do not need light in the process of rooting, and are more conducive to root growth in the dark environment, so hydroponics, especially those who use transparent containers, should pay attention to the previous dark treatment for about a month to a month and a half. Soil culture can not cover the light, but it must be better after proper dark treatment. This is a packing basket of New year goods that I took at my grandmother's house during the Spring Festival last year. It is of average quality and is not enough to bear too much weight, but it is OK to use it for dark treatment. Cover the hyacinth and hydroponic container as a whole, and put it in a cool and ventilated place to OK. We can choose small cartons, upside down can stand on it, black plastic bags as far as possible to avoid, so as not to cause poor ventilation.
9. When to see the light: hyacinth growth is actually relatively slow in the early stage, and the dormancy period may not have come to an end in this season, so for more than a month of shading treatment, we do not need to wait to observe every day. If you want to check the rooting situation, be careful not to upset the flowerpot. After 1 month, you can observe whether the root system is healthy, grow evenly and fill more than half of the hydroponic container as healthy, then you can move out of the balcony for normal management. Although the root system of soil culture can not be seen, usually when the root system grows about the same time, the top of the sphere will sprout.
Culture method of hyacinth
1. Seed bulb selection: the nutrients needed for hyacinth flowering mainly depend on the nutrient supply stored in bulbs and leaves. Thick and magnificent flowers can only be produced by choosing bulbs with no damage to the epidermis, fleshy scales, firm, heavy and plump bulbs.
2. Open-field cultivation: it should be carried out from October to November, select the soil with good drainage, apply sufficient base fertilizer before planting, cultivate in the field, avoid continuous cropping, generally do not make other management before flowering, and if you do not plan to harvest seeds after flowering, the flower stem should be cut off to promote the development of bulbous roots. the cutting position should be at the top of the flower stem as far as possible. The bulb root can be dug up in early June, spread out, graded storage in the cold storage, summer temperature should not exceed 28 degrees Celsius.
3. Potted plants: hyacinth bulbs that grow well from the market at the end of autumn are selected and planted in loose culture soil. Use loam, rotten leaf soil, fine sand and other mixed and cooperative nutrition. Attention should be paid when planting: the upper end of the bulb should be exposed to the basin soil, should be placed in the sun after planting, and should keep the basin soil moist. The temperature required to promote flowering is 5: 10 ℃.
4. Aquaculture: you can choose glassware whose mouth is slightly smaller than the bulb, put the bulb on the mouth of the bottle, add water to about 1 cm away from the bulb plate, or like daffodils, several bulbs can be planted together in a shallow basin for hydroponics.
5. promoting cultivation: after late September, the bulbs were treated with low temperature of 8C for 75 days, then potted in early October and cultivated in greenhouse to make them blossom at the end of the year. As the sensitivity of cultivated varieties varies greatly, the varieties suitable for promoting cultivation should be selected when promoting cultivation.
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