Cultivation techniques of loquat seedlings

Loquat is native to southeastern China and is famous because its leaves are shaped like pipa instruments. there are mainly two methods of propagation: sowing and grafting. After two years of grafting, loquat seedlings can bear fruit in the third year. 8 to 10 years into the full fruit period, let's take a look at the planting techniques of loquat seedlings!

Planting conditions of loquat seedlings

1. Temperature: loquat originates from subtropics and requires higher temperature. The annual average temperature can grow normally when the annual average temperature is more than 12 ℃, but the annual average temperature for economic cultivation should be 15-17 ℃, and there is no severe cold weather. Loquat flowering in late winter and early spring, low temperature in winter and spring will affect its flowering and fruiting.

2. Soil: loquat planting should choose flat, deep, loose, fertile and high-yield dry land rich in organic matter, and soil pH6.0 is the most suitable. Water must be considered to ensure that the orchard can be irrigated from November of each year to May of the following year, and the transportation and transportation are convenient. It is not suitable to choose land which is low and flat and prone to stagnant water. Ploughing more than 30 centimeters before planting.

Seedling raising techniques of Loquat seedlings

1. Nursery bed selection: the nursery should choose sandy soil with shady and leeward, loose soil, rich in organic matter, medium fertility, good fertilizer and water retention. Half a month before sowing (early and middle May), appropriate amount of mature compost, soil manure, pig manure or 50 kg compound fertilizer per mu were applied as base fertilizer. Then the soil is ploughed and raked fine and leveled to make a border, with a width of 1.2 meters and a furrow of 30 centimeters. Where there are underground pests, carbofuran should be used to disinfect the soil before soil preparation to kill underground pests.

2. Seed screening: loquat seeds have no dormancy period. Loquat kernels should be screened before sowing, and small and abnormal loquat seeds should be removed. Large and full loquat seeds can be sown after washing and drying.

3. Sowing method: the sowing time is from late May to early June. There are two sowing methods: sowing or strip sowing (generally using strip sowing). The row spacing of strip sowing is 20-25 cm and the plant spacing is 10-12 cm. Depending on the germination rate of seeds, 1-3 seeds are sown in each hole and pressed gently when sowing. Half of the seeds are pressed into the soil and sprinkled with a thin layer of fine ash soil to see the loquat seeds. If the sowing is too deep to be unearthed, it will also cause mildew and rot, and if it is too shallow, it will not take root. Immediately after sowing, water should be used to pour through the seedling bed and cover the soil surface with moisturizing materials such as rice straw or fresh pigpen grass, so as to keep the soil surface unhardened and conducive to seedling emergence.

4. Post-sowing management: before the seedling is unearthed, the seedling bed should maintain a certain humidity, do not be too dry and wet, and remove the grass after emergence. Because loquat seedlings like shade, the leaves are easy to burn when exposed to strong sunlight. Therefore, before emergence after sowing, it is necessary to use a sunshade net to build a shade shed, which is 50-60 cm high. After completing the seedlings, remove the weak seedlings, overdense seedlings and diseased seedlings in time, and leave a strong seedling according to the distance between the plants. When the seedlings grow 3-4 true leaves, thin human feces and urine or compound fertilizer can be applied every half a month, and weeds can be removed in time. When the seedling height reaches 20 cm, remove the top 1-2 young leaves, promote the lower stem thickening, and do a good job in the prevention and control of diseases and insect pests at the same time. The sunshade net was removed at the end of August and early September. In the spring of the second year, the rootstock seedlings can be grafted when the diameter is more than 0.6 cm, and the transplantable seedlings that are not up to the standard can be recultivated and managed to be grafted the following year.

Planting techniques of Loquat seedlings

The main results are as follows: 1. The choice of garden: first of all, the place with convenient transportation should be chosen to build the garden. Loquat has strong adaptability to the soil, but it is still the best in the deep, fertile, loose and ventilated sandy loam soil with a PH value of 6 ─ 6.5 or so. However, in slightly alkaline soil (such as slightly alkaline stone soil in mountain area, PH=7.5-7.8) still grew normally without yellowing, showing good resistance, which was obviously better than that of pear, peach, plum, citrus and other fruit trees.

2. Soil transformation: because the root distribution of loquat is shallow, the expansion ability is weak (generally not exceeding the crown dripping line), and the wind resistance is poor, so we must change the soil deeply or press the green in trenches or large holes. The seedlings should be planted on the ditch or large holes (the soil layer is less than 50 cm should be blasted to change the soil), and then the holes should be expanded outward every year to improve the soil permeability and fertility and lead the roots deep into the soil. Enhance root growth, expand the distribution of root groups, make plant growth robust and increase wind resistance. For flat land or clayey soil, trenches with a width of 40 cm and a depth of 50 ─ 60 cm should be opened every 2 rows.

3. Seedling planting

① planting time: loquat is warm in winter in most parts of the south and can be planted from September to March of the following year, and it is the best in the autumn rain season from September to October. It can also be planted when there is spring rain from February to March.

② seedling treatment: when close planting, loquat seedlings can be taken without soil, but it is best to pour water before digging, in order to dig the whole root, it is best to moisturize and transport. When planting over a long distance, this method is better than that with soil seedlings.

③ planting density: for dwarf early orchard, it can be planted according to row spacing of 1 × 3 m and 2 × 3 m per mu.

④ planting method: dig the pit one month before planting, and apply sufficient base fertilizer to mature ahead of time. When planting, the roots should be arranged evenly and filled with fine mud, so that all the roots are in full contact with the fine mud, and it is appropriate to just cover the neck of the root, exposing the grafting interface. The planting side should be 20-30 cm higher than the surrounding ground. Watering root water thoroughly after planting, watering 20 ─ 25 kg per plant (depending on soil moisture), must be fully watered, which is the key to improve the survival rate of seedlings. After the water penetrates into the soil, cover an area of 1 square meter of the tree plate with a thin film, but the edge of the film must be sealed to really maintain soil moisture and improve ground temperature. After planting, should pay attention to check, the soil should be watered when dry.