MySheen

Green life-hyacinth

Published: 2024-09-20 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/09/20, Hyacinth, a perennial herb of the hyacinth genus of the hyacinth family, is bulbous. It used to belong to the Liliaceae, but now it has been promoted to the new type genus of Hyacinaceae, and the hyacinth has changed from the original Liliaceae to the newly established Tianmen.

Hyacinth, a perennial herb of the hyacinth genus of the hyacinth family, is bulbous. It used to belong to the Liliaceae, but now it has been promoted to the type genus of the new hyacinth family, and the hyacinth has been changed from the original lily order to the newly established Tianmen winter order. Hyacinth is native to the Mediterranean and South Africa and gets its scientific name from Hyacinthus, a beautiful teenager who was spoiled by Apollo and died by throwing a discus in Greek mythology. The flowers of hyacinth are colorful and fascinating. Especially to the Spring Festival, red, blue, white, purple, yellow, pink hyacinth, fragrant bursts, full of festive atmosphere.

Hyacinth alias: hyacinth, daffodils, daffodils, five-color daffodils, brocade

Hyacinth habit

Hyacinth habits like the sun, cold-resistant, suitable for growing in a cool and humid environment and loose, fertile sandy soil, avoid stagnant water. Like warm and humid winter, cool summer slightly dry, sunny or semi-overcast environment. Like fertilizer, suitable for fertile, well-drained sandy loam. It can be planted in the ground, potted or raised in water.

It took root in autumn, unearthed new buds in early spring, bloomed in March, ripened in late May, withered in the ground in early June and went into dormancy. The flower bud differentiation was carried out in the dormant period, the optimum temperature for differentiation was about 25 ℃, and the differentiation process was about 1 month. There should be a low temperature stage of about two months after flower bud differentiation to before elongation and growth, and the temperature should not exceed 13 ℃.

During the growth of hyacinth, the root growth of bulb was the best when the temperature was 2-6 ℃. The optimum temperature for bud germination is 5-10 ℃, the optimum temperature for leaf growth is 5-12 ℃, and the most favorable temperature for budding and flowering is 15-18 ℃. The storage temperature of bulb is 20-28 ℃, and the optimum storage temperature is 25 ℃, which is the most ideal for flower bud differentiation. Can withstand short-term frost.

Culture method of hyacinth

Hyacinth reproduction can be divided into ball reproduction and sowing reproduction.

Ball-sharing method

After the bulb was dug back in June, the big ball and the seed ball were separated. "the big ball can blossom in early spring next year after autumn planting, and the seed ball needs to be cultivated for 3 years before it can blossom. Due to the low natural ball division rate of hyacinth, the mother plant can only produce 1-2 bulbs after planting for one year. In order to improve the reproduction coefficient, castration can be performed on the bulbs during the summer dormancy period to stimulate them to grow bulbs.

Sowing method

It is often used in the cultivation of new varieties, sowed in the culture soil in the cold bed in autumn, covered with soil of 1 cm, and germinated at the end of January and the beginning of February of the following year. Bulbs cultured from seedlings blossom after 4-5 years. Under general conditions, the germination ability of seeds can be maintained for 3 years.

Choose and buy hyacinth

The nutrients needed for hyacinth flowering are mainly supplied by the nutrients stored in the bulbs and leaves. As long as we choose the bulbs that have no damage to the epidermis, fleshy scales are not too wrinkled, hard and heavy, and full, we can produce rich and beautiful flowers. In the selection and purchase of seed heads, we should pay attention to the selection of bright skin color, strong texture, no disease spots and insect population is good, usually from the color of the seed coat can basically judge what color of flowers it is. For example, if the skin is purplish red, it will have purplish red flowers, and if it is white, it will have white flowers, but some hybrid varieties will have a more complex color, and sometimes they will not be able to distinguish clearly, so they need to ask the operator to buy. When the seed head is bought back, soak it with carbendazim and dry it. In order to break the dormancy period, it should be refrigerated in the bottom compartment of the refrigerator for about a month so that it can blossom smoothly in the future. But when you take it out of the refrigerator, it is best to put it in a cool place for seven or eight days before sowing.

Soil

Hyacinth should choose sandy loam with good drainage and not too dry, which requires fertile soil, high content of organic matter, good aggregate structure, neutral to slightly alkaline, pH 6-7. The culture soil can be prepared according to the ratio of rotten leaf soil 5 ∶ garden soil 3 ∶ coarse sand 1.5 ∶ bone powder 0.5. Before planting, chemical agents such as formalin can be used to cover the soil surface immediately after applying formalin at a soil temperature of 10-15 ℃. After 3 days of warm weather, remove the film and plant it after 1 day to keep the soil moist. Before planting, we should apply enough base fertilizer, cultivate in the field, and avoid continuous cropping.

It is suitable to be carried out from October to November, and the selection of soil with good drainage is the most important condition. Apply enough base fertilizer before planting, add a thin layer of sand, and then line up the bulbs, 15 cm-18 cm apart and 5 cm-8 cm covered with soil. And cover with grass to keep the soil loose and moist. Generally, there is no other management before flowering. If seeds are not to be collected after flowering, the flower stem should be cut off to promote bulb development. The cutting position should be in the uppermost part of the flower stem as far as possible. The bulb roots can be dug up in early June, spread out and stored in cold storage, and the summer temperature should not exceed 28 ℃.

Potted plant

With loam, rotten leaf soil, fine sand and other mixed nutrition soil, generally 10 cm caliber potted one ball, 15 cm caliber potted 2-3 balls, and then buried in the pot, the overlying soil 10 cm-15 cm, after 7-8 weeks, buds grow to more than 10 cm, go to cover the soil to make the sun shine, generally planted in October-November, flowering in March.

Aquaculture

Hyacinth aquaculture requires that the water level should have a space of 1-2cm from the chassis of the bulb, so that the root system can breathe, and it is strictly forbidden to fill the water over the bottom of the bulb. In December, you can put the seed ball in a wide-mouthed glass bottle and add a little charcoal to help with antisepsis and disinfection. The seed ball is only dipped to the bottom of the ball, then it is placed in a dark place and the bottle is covered with black cloth, so that after germinating in an all-black environment for more than 20 days, it is put outdoors to be exposed to sunlight for 1-2 hours a day at first, and then gradually increased to 7-8 hours, most of which can blossom during the Spring Festival when the weather is good.

Select time

After late July, the bulbs were treated with low temperature of 8 ℃ for 70-75 days, then potted in early October and cultivated in greenhouse to make them blossom at the end of the year. As the sensitivity of cultivated varieties varies greatly, the varieties suitable for promoting cultivation should be selected when promoting cultivation.

Light

Hyacinth only needs more than 5000Lx to maintain normal physiological activity. If the light is too weak, the plant will be thin, the stem is too long, the bud is small, the flowers are early, and the leaves are yellow. incandescent lamp can be used to fill the light at about 1 meter, but too strong light can also cause leaves and petals to burn or shorten the flowering period.

Humidity

Soil moisture should be kept between 60-70%, too high, root respiration is inhibited and perishable, and if it is too low, the aboveground part wilts or even dies; the air humidity should be kept at about 80%, and can be increased by spraying and watering the ground. Ventilation and other methods can also be used to reduce humidity.

Temperature

When the temperature is too high, even higher than 35 ℃, the flower bud differentiation will be inhibited, the abnormal growth will occur, and the blind flower rate will increase; if the temperature is too low, the flower bud will be frozen. At the beginning of the 20th century, flower growers began to produce hyacinth in greenhouses and treat them at a certain temperature. Like tulips and other bulbs, their bulbs need to be maintained at low temperatures for a period of time, otherwise they will not produce high-quality flowers and stems of sufficient length.

The growth process of hyacinth includes a leaf formation stage, a flower formation stage and an elongation stage. Promote the flowering of the bulb by early flower formation and providing the most effective period of low temperature. This is why hyacinths grown in the Mediterranean tend to blossom early. Leaf formation can be accelerated by keeping a higher temperature in the bulb planting stage, so the flower formation stage is also earlier.

Compared with other bulbous plants, hyacinth forms flowers earlier through special temperature treatment. One way to achieve this is to increase the soil temperature during bulb growth. This method is rarely used because of its high cost. More commonly, the bulbs are dug up early and treated with temperature in an air-conditioned room to promote flower formation. The period of excavation and the temperature of treatment are the factors that distinguish potted plants from cut hyacinth.

Management of hyacinth diseases and insect pests

The common diseases of hyacinth are bud rot, soft rot, Sclerotinia sclerotiorum and virus. Before planting, the matrix was strictly disinfected, the seed balls were selected and disinfected, and 1000 times of thalidomide or chlorothalonil was sprayed every 7 days during the growth period, which could inhibit the spread of bacteria to a certain extent. Strictly controlling the amount of water pouring, strengthening ventilation management, controlling the air relative humidity in the environment, and timely removal of central diseased plants can greatly reduce the incidence.

In order to prevent the occurrence of diseases during outdoor soil cold treatment, it is advisable to use fresh soil every year. In this way, there is no need for routine treatment of the soil.

If the soil has been used before, it can be used to pot or cover the bulbs. Routine soil disinfection is recommended before use to avoid the occurrence of Rhizoctonia. This conventional soil treatment is consistent with the soil treatment before tulip planting. In addition, you can refer to the conventional methods of soil treatment, and we suggest you consult the relevant local authorities.

If hyacinth bulbs are provided with a temperature of 9 ℃ immediately after planting, and the flower buds are completely exposed without covering the soil during cold treatment, it is not necessary to use fungicides to treat the bulbs.

Parasitic rotting

Part of the plant lies in the upper part of the inflorescence where the flower is rotten, known as "top rot", which is often accompanied by brown spots at the tip of the leaf. This decay is mostly caused by normally random parasites, including plants that begin to be infected after the florets are dried (physiological buds rot) or plants that have been pre-infected by parasitic buds (parasitic buds rot). The parasite can then cause the initial infection.

Rhizoctonia

The fungus begins to infect plants from contaminated soil, even before planting. The identification marks are irregularly shaped, bright brown jagged scars on some florets. The occurrence is slightly lighter on the outer leaves. The more serious infection is that the spots become larger, the leaf tips of the plants turn brown, and traces of cobweb-like fungal growth can be seen when planted in the greenhouse. This kind of infection often occurs regionally and intensifies when the soil temperature rises.

Prevention: often use new soil as basin soil. The infected soil is treated by conventional methods before use. Maintain the specified temperature in the natural cold treatment and rooting chamber.

Penicillium

It belongs to decay during storage, and the initial symptoms can be seen immediately before planting. The part of the root tip is dried up by fungal infection. When the base of the root is cut, the surrounding tissue can be seen to be light brown. Tissue of the same color can also be seen where the bulb falls off. The bulbs will continue to rot during storage and later planting. The buds of the infected bulbs are relatively short, and the bulbs themselves have little or no roots at all. Plants are easy to lodge.

This fungal infection also occurs in the injured part of the bulb. The infected part has white to turquoise fungal growth, and the underlying tissue becomes brown and soft, but this infection does not extend to the root disc and has no bad effect on flowering quality.

This infection is caused by different Penicillium such as P. verrucosum. "Pink Pearl" and its varieties are easy to be infected through the root tip. This infection mainly occurs in the low temperature storage room (below 17 ℃) and the humidity is higher than 70%. Another reason is caused by the injury of the seed ball.

Prevention and treatment: prevent precocious bud or root formation. Plant immediately after arrival (especially "Pink Pearl" and its variants). In the storeroom, the specified constant temperature should be maintained and the air should be ventilated. Keep humidity below 70% throughout storage.

Erwinia spp.

Soft rot, in the greenhouse, seriously infected bulbs no longer sprout. The bulb becomes soft and the tissue of the bulb is transparent and accompanied by white or yellow spots. These infected bulbs also give off an unpleasant smell. The disease with less serious infection is the formation of wet, dark green areas from the base of the leaves, which first hinders growth, then wilts the plant until it dies.

The disease is caused by Erwinia. Most of these bacteria are parasitic and mainly infect tissues that are frozen or overhydrated. When the temperature is too high or the soil is too wet, another form of infection is from the wounds where the precocious roots or bulbs peel off. This problem is mainly caused by too high or too wet soil temperature during natural cold treatment in autumn. "DelftBlue" and "Carnegie" are highly susceptible to infection. The disease is not contagious in the greenhouse, and although the infected tissue is usually butter-colored, the infection does not occur in other parts of the world.

Control methods: usually plant bulbs under the recommended conditions, that is, natural treatment or rooting chamber to keep low temperature (9 ℃), while not too wet. The infected bulbs and plants should be removed during planting and throughout the greenhouse period. This prevents Erwinia from spreading to nearby bulbs through irrigation water.

Grey mold disease

In the early stage of the disease, the susceptible leaf tip changed color, and the leaf wrinkled and rotted. Under cold and wet conditions, the flowers also rot. In the later stage of the disease, the disease produced gray mildew layer and black sclerotia. The pathogen overwintered with sclerotia in the disease residue and soil, and the conidia were produced under suitable conditions, and the conidia were infected by wind and rain. Low temperature and high humidity are beneficial to the occurrence of diseases.

Prevention and cure method

Reduce the source of infection: remove diseased flowers and leaves in time and destroy them centrally.

Chemical control: at the initial stage of the disease, spray 1ve1ve100 Bordeaux solution, or 65% Dysen zinc wettable powder 1000-fold solution, or 50% benzoate wettable powder 1000-fold solution, or Banyuanqing 800-1000 times solution spray control.

Root nodule disease

Hyacinth root swelling disease is also called root nodule disease. The root system is normal at the beginning, when it elongates to a certain degree, it produces small white tumor, the growth weakens, and sometimes the floret dry rot occurs, which affects the growth and development, and the whole plant dies when it is serious.

Prevention and control methods:

During the storage period, strictly disinfect and sterilize, pay attention to strengthen ventilation, check frequently, turn over frequently, and pick up the diseased plants and burn them in time.

Strictly carry out soil disinfection and sterilization, no continuous cropping, no repeated application of cultivated soil.

The diseased plants were removed in time during cultivation, and the soil was disinfected and sterilized.

Strict quarantine, do not make disease ball disease plant eight nursery.

Breeding skills and matters needing attention of hyacinth

What about the physiological bud rot of hyacinth?

The last floret was dehydrated because the cold treatment was too short. Whether it is sensitive to this kind of bud rot is determined by the size of different varieties and bulbs.

Control methods: ensure that the rooting chamber and natural treatment temperature of the planting bulb are kept at 9 ℃, and compensation measures should be used when the treatment is not 9 ℃. Do not move the seed ball indoors prematurely to provide the necessary cold treatment for each variety. Keep the constant temperature of 23-25 ℃ during the greenhouse period, and the temperature drop should not be more than 1-2 ℃ during the planting period, in order to avoid Penicillium infection caused by high relative humidity in greenhouse climate. Never water the inflorescence, especially in the final stage. Before transportation, if storage is not available, do not make the soil in the basin too wet and ensure adequate air circulation between the plants.

What if the top of the hyacinth turns green?

The florets at the top of some inflorescences remain green and, in severe cases, cover the top of the entire flower. Etiology: an imbalance caused by improper treatment of low temperature; such a result can be caused by too short or incorrect temperatures. Some varieties, such as "Pink Pearl" and its varieties and "Jan Bos", are more sensitive to this disorder than others.

Control method: after cultivation, operate according to the prescribed cold treatment period and low temperature.

What about the skewed inflorescence of hyacinth?

After the bulb was moved into the greenhouse, the uppermost growth of the hyacinth stem became askew. In large inflorescences of hyacinth, some flower stems and attached florets grow relatively faster than others, such as "Delft Blue" and its varieties, "Carnegie" and "L'Innocence". This trait is not what we expected, and this disorder is common in hyacinths planted earlier and in hyacinths with large inflorescences.

Control methods: after planting, use the prescribed cold treatment and low temperature standards. Keeping a slightly lower greenhouse temperature (18-17 ℃) can also prevent inflorescence skew.

What if the hyacinth blossoms at the top?

Unlike the normal growth state, the florets at the top bloom earlier than those in the lower parts. The inflorescences of such flowers are usually short and robust. This imbalance is caused by the lack of the necessary cold treatment of the variety before moving the plant into the house. Each breed has different sensitivity to this disease.

Control methods: after planting, operate according to the prescribed cold treatment and low temperature standards.

Hyacinth plant culture

Hyacinth: victory, competition, joy, love, happiness, affection, admiration, stubbornness, life, complacency, everlasting remembrance.

Flower words of new varieties of hyacinth for horticulture: attention.

Blue hyacinth flower words: life.

Purple hyacinth: sadness, jealousy, melancholy love (get my love, you will be happy), apology (sorry, please forgive me), regret.

Lilac hyacinth flower language: gentle temperament, romantic feelings. Sadness.

White hyacinth flower words: tranquil, quiet love (dare not show love), secret love.

Red hyacinth flower words: thank you, let me move the love (your love fills my heart).

Peach hyacinth flower words: enthusiasm.

Blue hyacinth flower words: perseverance, chastity, as happy as to see you, noble and rich.

Dark blue hyacinth flower words: a little melancholy because of love.

Yellow hyacinth flower words: happiness, happiness, and you are very happy.

Pink hyacinth flower language: admiration, romance.

Light green hyacinth: if you want to have no secrets, you must first have a kind heart.

Hyacinth symbol

1. As long as you light the fire of life, you can share a rich life.

two。 Reborn love. Forget the sadness of the past and start a new love.

 
0