High-yield Cultivation and Management Techniques of "Fruit of Life" Raspberry

High-yield cultivation and management techniques of raspberry

Raspberry, also known as raspberry, raspberry, tree bubble, wheat bubble (wheat harvest season, hence the name), Rosaceae deciduous shrub, because its fruit color is similar to strawberry, but grow on the tree, hence the name raspberry. It is one of the third generation fruits rising at home and abroad in recent years. Raspberry sour, sweet and delicious, rich in nutrition, with a special rich aroma, in addition to fresh food can also process fruit juices, beverages, fruit wine and so on. Raspberry has wide adaptability, strong growth, no special requirements for soil quality, can hang a small amount of fruit in the year of planting, enter the high yield period of 3 and 4 years, and produce more than 1200 kg per mu. Because its fruit is novel and unique, it has a unique style among many fruits, so it also has great market competitiveness and development prospects. Raspberry has strong tillering ability. after the second year of planting, each plant can tiller more than ten new seedlings every year, which can quickly control barren hills. it is a small shrub fruit tree variety with high ecological and economic benefits. Raspberry is highly adaptable and can be planted in most parts of China except the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, and can be planted anywhere in the south with a low temperature of-40 ℃ and 45 min in the north.

The planting management techniques are as follows:

1. Planting period: raspberry can be planted in spring and autumn. In principle, planting in spring is before seedling germination after soil thawing (March-April). During this period, it is better to plant late on the premise of keeping seedlings not germinating. Early spring planting is not conducive to root growth because of low soil temperature and unstable temperature change. In principle, autumn planting is from the mature Lignification of raspberry seedlings to before soil freezing (October-December).

2. Planting methods: raspberry planting methods include single plant planting and strip planting, single plant planting is suitable for scattered open space planting next to the house, and black raspberry with weak tillering ability. The distance between rows and plants per plant is 2 meters. Strip planting is suitable for large area planting, with row spacing of 2.50 meters, plant spacing of 0.30 meters and 330 planting holes per mu. In the non-buried cold-proof area, it is 1.50 meters, the plant distance is 0.80 meters, and there are 555 planting holes per mu. Whether single plant planting or strip planting, in order to form luxuriant plant clusters as soon as possible and achieve high-yield plant density as soon as possible, it is appropriate to plant 3 trees per hole.

3. Planting: before planting, the roots of the seedlings should be soaked in water for 24 hours to make the roots absorb enough water to improve the survival rate. The requirement of planting is to plant deeply and shallowly, that is, the roots of the seedlings should be 1015cm away from the ground, and the shallow burial should be within 30cm around the seedlings. Do not exceed the original soil marks on the branches when walking the soil. The purpose of deep planting is because the new rhizome moves up year by year with the age of the tree, and the lower root system will age year by year, so it should be planted deeply in order to ensure the normal growth of the tree. The main purpose of shallow burial is to shorten the slow seedling stage and improve the survival rate.

When planting, first dig the planting hole, hold the seedling in the hole, and pay attention to unfold the root system, then bury the soil to the original soil print, step on the soil to make the root system closely connect with the soil, and finally irrigate the soil at one time.

After the raspberry is planted in spring, because the nutrition center of the plant is in the underground root, rather than on the ground, it usually takes 1-2 months to extract the basal branch, which is different from other fruit trees. therefore, the investigation of the survival rate of raspberry should be carried out 2 months after planting. After autumn planting, the root system of raspberry resumes growth before the soil freezes, and at this time, the root system of the raspberry resumes growth because of the low temperature and short-day sunshine above ground. It has made the buds dormant and can not germinate, which not only improves the survival rate, but also promotes the production of the second year, so the survival rate of autumn planting of raspberry is 1% higher than that of spring planting, which is determined by the special root system of raspberry.

Raspberries are growing happily.

4. Framing and binding: although all the grapes except blackberries are upright, because the branches of raspberries usually grow for only 2 years, the technique is relatively thin compared with other fruit trees, and it is easy to bow and touch the ground when the branches grow to 1.50 meters, especially in the fruiting period. this is especially true under heavy pressure with fruit. First of all, the branches touch the ground to pollute the fruit, affecting the fruit quality and economic benefits, and then bring inconvenience to the management of soil, fertilizer, water and harvest, so raspberries should be framed and tied. Framing and binding can increase the leaf area coefficient, change from plane results to three-dimensional results, make branches evenly distributed, improve ventilation and light transmission conditions, and so on, which is also one of the important measures to increase raspberry yield and harvest.

It is very simple to set up and tie a column every 5m in the line, with a height of 1.20-1.50m, and pull 2 wires. The upper wire is fixed at the top of the pillar, and the lower wire is 1 meter away from the ground.

5. Pruning: raspberries, like other fruit trees, must have enough reasonable branches in order to achieve stable and high yield, which requires pruning.

The first pruning is planted and pruned in early spring, and the thin, weak and damaged branches that are too dense should be cut off together. when the new shoots of the same year grow to 40 ~ 60 cm, the plants with lower density can be coring by 10 cm, so as to promote the lateral buds to germinate new branches and increase the number of branches.

The second pruning is the pruning of the basal branch (that is, the new shoot of the same year). The production practice shows that it is the most suitable for the basal branch to stay within 1.30 Mel 1.50 m. This length promotes the growth of the fruiting mother branch, increases the yield, and makes the flower bud of the basal branch differentiate completely in the second year, so it should be pruned when the basal branch is more than 1.50 m. Each year, 8 plants can be selected from the strong basal branches, and the rest are cut off, which is a more reasonable plant density.

The third pruning is to remove the fruiting mother branch after harvest.