Wiping buds, fixing tips, removing tendrils, picking old leaves, how to prune the growing season of wine grapes

Grape sprouting

1. Wipe the bud. After the grapes sprout in spring, break off the unused buds. The earlier the sprout is, the better the effect will be. Mainly erase thin and weak buds, crooked buds, disease and insect buds. When double buds appear, one of the relatively weak buds can be erased. If the hidden buds germinated on the old vine do not need to be used to fill the space, they should also be erased.

2. Get rid of cute. At the same time of new shoot growth, the trunk and root often sprout, the more tillers, the greater the unnecessary nutrition consumption, the more disadvantageous to the new shoot growth and flower bud differentiation. Therefore, anti-cute work is very important. In addition, the sprouting branches at the bottom are also conducive to the growth of various soil-borne bacteria, which should be wiped out as soon as possible. It is generally carried out when the tillers grow to 15~20cm and have not yet been lignified.

3. Fix the pin. When the new shoot grows to 15~20cm and inflorescence can be seen, it is necessary to remove too many, overdense, fruiting and weak shoots, and retain a suitable number of strong fruiting and developmental shoots, and 1:1 is suitable for fruiting and developing shoots. The earlier the shoot setting is completed, the more beneficial it is to save the nutrition of the grape vine. In areas with serious wind damage, the time of shoot setting can be postponed appropriately.

4. Entrapment. From the time the new shoot grows to about 40cm, it only takes once for the tree to be moderate. Young trees and prosperous trees shall be implemented twice according to the specific conditions. The new tip of the fruit tip can be tied in the direction of extension, and the rest of the new shoot is tied at a right angle to the mother tip. Do not tie up too early, because the tender tips of the grapes are crisp and easy to break.

5. Pick the heart. Results shoot coring can promote inflorescence development and increase fruit setting rate. Coring of developing shoots can prevent overgrowth so as to affect the growth of fruiting mother shoots and cultivate crowns at the same time. Coring sooner or later and intensity are related to variety, tree potential and so on. All varieties with low fruit setting rate, such as snake dragon pearl, etc., should be coring early and strong, generally carried out 5-6 days before flowering, which can prevent falling flowers and fruits; varieties with high fruit setting rate and compact ear, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, should be coring at flowering stage or after falling flowers, and the coring intensity should be slightly less. generally, the fruit tip should be coring at 5 leaves above inflorescence, and nutrition tip coring should be carried out when there are 8 leaves and 10 leaves on the branches.

6. Remove tendrils. Grape tendrils, homologous to inflorescences, are used to wrap around foreign bodies to fix vines. The tendrils are left untreated and tangled on the shelf surface, which will bring inconvenience to new shoots and grape harvest, and consume a lot of nutrients at the same time. Throughout the growing season, the tendrils on the new shoots should be removed in time.

7. Deal with the assistant tip. The secondary shoots of grape often waste nutrition and disturb the shape of the tree, resulting in canopy closure. The treatment methods are as follows: (1) the secondary shoots on the fruiting shoots are wiped off all those below the ear, and those above the fruiting shoots are left with 1 leaf and 2 leaves; for the secondary shoots produced on the primary secondary shoots, except for the 2 leaves at the top of the branch, the other secondary shoots are removed as soon as possible. (2) the secondary shoots on the vegetative branches generally retain 1-2 leaves, and only 1-2 new leaves are kept in the secondary shoots to promote the growth of new shoots. Note that the treatment of secondary shoots should not be too light, otherwise the branches of the shelf surface should be closed, affecting ventilation and light, and they should not be too heavy, especially Eurasian varieties such as snake dragon beads, which can not be completely erased to prevent winter buds from being forced and affecting the yield of the following year.

8. Pick old leaves. Remove the leaves around the ear and the lower part of the ear, make the ear fully receive light, increase the content of glucose, anthocyanin and tannin, reduce the content of malic acid which is harmful to the quality of wine, promote berry ripening and reduce diseases such as acid rot. Picking old leaves is usually carried out one month before grape ripening, remove the 1st ~ 5th leaves at the base of the new shoot, and straighten out the ear, so that 75% of the ear is exposed to the sun. Time should not be too early, otherwise it will affect the yield and quality of grapes, especially reduce the sugar content of grapes.