Culture technology of cobra

Cobras are awe-inspiring animals, mainly due to the severe toxicity of cobras and the danger of being bitten by cobras, but the artificial breeding of cobras has high economic benefits, broad market prospects, and small snakes are easy to eat, and the seedlings are relatively cheap. the market price is also rising, with a very high breeding value, let's take a look at cobra breeding technology!

The living habits of Cobra

Cobras often like to live in bushes or bamboo forests in plains, hills and mountains, as well as graves on hillsides, foothills and rivers, streams and fish ponds, fields and houses. It belongs to diurnal snakes, which mainly go out to look for food during the day. Can withstand high temperature, can not avoid the sun in the hot environment of 35-38 ℃, still move around, but the ability to bear low temperature is poor, they all like to hibernate in groups in winter, and are easy to freeze to death when the temperature is lower than 9 ℃.

Feeding techniques of Cobra

The main results are as follows: 1. Cobra mostly lives in caves in spring and autumn, with rats as the main food, while in summer and early autumn (May-September), it is scattered to the foot of the mountain, field, riverside, ditch, rice field, vegetable garden, wall foot, etc., and even climbs into the house, feeding on rodents, birds and eggs, lizards, snake frogs, Loach, eel Loach and other small fish.

2. The cobra has a strong tolerance to hunger, and it is often seen that it does not eat for months or even a year. When raising snakes, we should not ignore the supply of food. we should try our best to feed them well and full. generally, we can feed snakes once a month or so. In the season of frequent snake activity, we can feed them 2 or 3 times a month or once a week.

3. The food fed by cobras is live animals for snakes to hunt, and for some young snakes that cannot be hunted, artificial feeding should be carried out if necessary. Snakes generally eat a lot, such as the black brow snake, which can eat 4 or 5 mice at a time. When feeding snakes, clean drinking water should be provided at the same time, because snakes are generally addicted to drinking water, and they can endure hunger for a long time when there is water but no food. If the snake is short of food and water for a long time, it will make the snake weak and easy to get sick.

Hatching technology of cobra

1. Prevent natural enemies: rodents, dogs, weasels, ants and other animals will eat snake eggs in human beings, so they should be covered or protected with gauze to prevent snake eggs from being infringed.

2. No mixed hatching: the hatching time of different species of cobra eggs is obviously different, even for the same species of snakes, due to the difference of living environment or physique, the laying time is first, and the hatching time is also different. Artificial hatching snake eggs mostly put the same kind of snake eggs in the same incubator or vessel, which is easy to grasp the hatching temperature and humidity and conducive to the hatching of snake eggs. If the snake eggs of different incubation periods are mixed together to hatch, it is bound to make the hatching technology and human hatching conditions difficult to control.

3. Temperature and humidity: generally, the hatching temperature of snake eggs is 20-30 ℃. For the convenience of temperature measurement, a thermometer can be hung on the edge of the cylinder. If the temperature is too high, open the lid to dissipate heat, if the temperature is too low, you can hang a hot water bag to remedy it, but you can't touch the snake egg. In the process of artificial hatching of snake eggs, according to practice, it is found that the female-to-male ratio of young snakes will be directly affected by the different hatching temperature.

4. Control male and female: artificial hatching can completely change the sex of young snakes. If you want to increase the proportion of female snakes, you only need to control the hatching temperature at 20-24 ℃, and the relative humidity is about 90%. Most of the hatched snakes are females. When the hatching temperature is higher than 27 ℃ and the humidity is less than 70%, most of the hatched snakes are males. If the temperature is controlled at 24-27 ℃ and the environmental relative humidity is controlled at 50%-7 ()%, the proportion of female and male hatched snakes is about half.

5. Anti-mildew of snake eggs: once mildew spots are found on the eggshell, gently wipe it off with flannelette. Dip a little griseofulvin on the mildew spot with a brush and put it back to the original place after it is completely dried. Do not use antibiotic ointment to smear, otherwise grease will block the stomata on the egg shell, causing the embryo to suffocate and become stillborn.

6. Select mulch: in order to adjust and maintain the appropriate humidity of snake eggs during the incubation period and improve the hatching rate of snake eggs, fresh and clean lotus leaves, sycamore leaves or moss vegetation should be selected to cover the snake eggs, which should be replaced once every 2 to 4 days. Some people are used to covering snake eggs with wet straw and wet cotton wool, which often can not achieve the ideal effect. A little carelessness will lead to mildew and deterioration of snake eggs, affecting normal hatching and should not be used.

7. Timely egg testing: in the process of hatching, unfertilized eggs or dead eggs will be dilated and ruptured due to deterioration, polluting other fertilized eggs. In order to avoid this phenomenon, timely egg testing measures can be taken to ensure that fertilized eggs hatch normally. During egg testing, a wooden box with a built-in light bulb can be used to make a hole slightly smaller than the snake egg, and the egg can be placed in front of the hole to see if the snake egg is fertilized. If it is difficult to choose between individual snake eggs for a while, you can put it on the other side and re-examine it later.

8. Learn to record: in the process of artificial hatching, detailed records of the hatching should be made every day. After the baby snake comes out of its shell, the snake name, body length, weight, feeding, molting and other relevant data of the baby snake should also be recorded, which is conducive to the continuous improvement of hatching techniques and feeding methods.

Matters needing attention in cobra culture

1, do not feed water frequently: place a water plate once in about ten days, mainly to make the snake moist skin easy to peel, not to drink water, and to control its drinking water to force the snake to increase its food intake to replenish the body's water, the snake's growth rate is also increased with large food intake, and it can keep the snake nest dry to prevent the occurrence of skin diseases.

2. feed every other day: let the snake get used to having enough food for a certain period of time, and there is no food for a certain period of time, so the cobra will eat as much as possible when there is enough food, eat and drink enough to sleep, and at the same time have time to digest the food in the stomach.

3. No forced cooling: cobras are generally afraid of cold and heat. When the temperature outside is 35 degrees, the temperature of the snake nest is only about 30 degrees. There is no need to worry that the temperature in the snake room is too high. Just keep the natural ventilation in the snake room. A sudden drop in temperature will cause discomfort in the snake and cause pneumonia due to a cold.

4. Divide the columns on time: the snake pen is wound up every two months and raised in groups according to size, which is conducive to the uniform growth of snakes. Avoid the phenomenon that big snakes eat more than small snakes.

5. Choose indoor breeding: it is best to raise commercial cobras indoors (except cobra species) to avoid excessive changes in skin diseases and temperature differences caused by weather changes or rainy seasons.

6. Prevent being bitten: the early symptoms of cobra bite include ptosis, diplopia, dysphagia, dizziness, facial paralysis, vomiting and then respiratory muscle paralysis. The general treatment is to use antivenom and may need artificial ventilation until the venom is degraded and the patient can breathe on his own. If the ineffective treatment of patients is more than 6-12 hours after bite, the cause of death is mostly asphyxiation due to respiratory paralysis.