Culture methods of Gladiolus

Gladiolus, also known as calamus orchid, sword orchid, flat bamboo lotus, ten brocade, etc., is a perennial herb of Iridaceae. It can be used as a basket, bouquet, vase, etc., and can also be arranged in flower borders and special flower beds. Dwarf varieties can be watched in pots, and cut rose, carnations and Fulang flowers are known as the "four cut flowers in the world". Let's take a look at the breeding methods of Gladiolus.

Growth habits of Gladiolus

Gladiolus is a warm plant, but too high temperature is disadvantageous to its growth and is not cold-tolerant. The suitable temperature for growth is 20-25 ℃, and the corm can sprout in the soil temperature above 5 ℃. In typical long-day plants, long-day sunshine is beneficial to flower bud differentiation, lack of light will reduce the number of flowers, but after flower bud differentiation, short-day sunshine is beneficial to flower bud formation and early flowering. The bulbs of summer flowers must be stored indoors for the winter, and the room temperature should not be lower than 0 ℃. The fertile sandy loam is suitable for cultivated soil, and the pH value is less than 7. Especially like fertilizer, phosphate fertilizer can improve the quality of flowers, potassium fertilizer can improve the quality of corms and the number of bulbs.

Propagation methods of Gladiolus

1. Sub-ball: after one year of cultivation, 1 female ball of Gladiolus will produce 1-2 commercial balls and many seed balls, the middle ball and large ball will use the trenching method, the small ball will use the ditch sowing method, the small ball will use the direct sowing method, and the basal fertilizer should be applied before planting, but we should pay attention to the fertilizer should not be in direct contact with the corm, pay attention to water management after sowing, and do not dry or water before emergence.

2. Cutting balls: for some rare varieties of Gladiolus to rapidly expand the reproduction coefficient, full commercial balls can be cut into 2-4 pieces, and each piece must have part of the root disc and complete buds to propagate. To prevent the bulb from rotting, the section should be smeared with charcoal powder or plant ash and planted immediately.

3. Tissue culture: long-term asexual reproduction of Gladiolus led to serious hybrid and degradation of varieties, so tissue culture must be carried out regularly to detoxify and rejuvenate. Petals and lateral buds can be used as explants. After disinfection and inoculation, they can be cultured under the condition of 25 ℃ and 2000 L, and the seedlings can be obtained by induction, subculture and rooting culture. If the plantlets continue to be cultured, the test-tube bulbs can be obtained, the test-tube corms can be trained and grow into mother balls after two years of planting.

Culture methods of Gladiolus

1. Soil: Gladiolus prefers rich and deep sandy soil and requires good drainage, and sandy slope soil with good drainage is the most suitable. PH is 5.6-6.5, and it is not suitable to plant in areas where heavy clayey soil is prone to waterlogging.

2. Watering: gladiolus is a flower that needs more water. Timely watering and keeping the soil moist are important measures to promote its more flowering. In case of hot and high temperature, it should be sprayed in time to humidify, reduce the temperature, and pay attention to drainage after rain.

3. Temperature: the optimum temperature for the growth of Gladiolus is 20: 25 ℃ in daytime and 10: 15 ℃ at night. When the temperature is higher than 27 ℃, the growth of petals is blocked, the petals are easy to burn, and the growth is slow below 10 ℃.

4. Sunshine: Gladiolus is not tolerant to shade and is a long-sunshine plant. 16 hours a day is the most suitable light. The varieties of cut flowers are greatly affected by light. If the sunshine is sufficient, the growth is strong, the resistance is strong, and the flower color is bright and long-lasting, but in hot summer, avoid strong direct sunlight.

5. Fertilization: gladiolus is a shallow root plant, fertilizer should be applied shallowly, fertilization should take into account both nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, topdressing at two true leaf stage (after flower bud differentiation) and heading stage, apply dilute fecal water plus urea once, re-apply potassium fertilizer in the middle stage, pay attention to nitrogen control in the later stage, so as not to overgrow the plant and cause lodging. The plots dominated by seed bulb production should be mainly increased with potash fertilizer.

Prevention and control of diseases and insect pests of Gladiolus

1. Mosaic disease

[symptoms] Mosaic disease mainly infects leaves and flower organs. In the early stage of the disease, faded green angular spots and round spots appeared on the leaves, and the expansion of the disease spots were mostly polygonal due to the limitation of leaf veins, and finally turned brown, diseased leaves, yellowing and distortion. The diseased plants are short and short, and the seriously diseased plants can not produce flower ears. In early summer, the symptoms on the new leaves are particularly obvious, but in the middle of summer, the symptoms are not obvious, and the symptoms are hidden.

[prevention and control] strengthen quarantine to control the occurrence of diseases, detect the seed bulbs, select the corms without virus for planting, destroy the corms with virus uniformly, reduce the re-infection of flowers, and remove the diseased plants in the flower bed in time to prevent mutual infection. During the onset of the disease, use 58% mancozeb wettable powder 500x solution or 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder, 50% carbendazim wettable powder 1000 times solution for foliar spraying, once every 7 days, generally spraying 3 times 4 times.

2. Dry rot

[symptoms] dry rot mainly harms the bulbs, leaves, flowers and roots of plants. During the disease, the plant first yellowed from the tip of the lateral leaves, then spread to the medial leaves, and finally withered.

[prevention and control] continuous cropping of flower beds should be avoided as far as possible, it is not suitable to apply more nitrogen fertilizer, and appropriately increase the use of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Before planting, the bulbs can be soaked in 50% carbendazim 500 times solution for 30 minutes. In the early stage of plant disease, 1000 times solution of 50% Dysen zinc was sprayed on the leaf surface once every 7 days, usually 3 times.

3. Leaf spot

[symptoms] the pathogen can infect leaves and corms, and the leaves produce brown spots after infection, then gradually expand, the color deepens gradually, and finally cause the leaves to wither. After the corm is infected, the plant is short and even does not bloom.

[prevention and control] to carry out crop rotation, seriously diseased areas must be rotated to reduce pathogenic seedlings, corms should be treated, and corms should be dried after harvest and stored dry to prevent decay. 50% thiram can be used before planting, followed by sowing and chemical control. Can be sprayed with 75% chlorothalonil 800 times or treated with 65% zinc.

4. Scab

[symptoms] scab is mainly harmful to bulbs and sometimes to leaves. Waterlogged round spot appeared after corm infection, the color gradually deepened from gray to dark brown, the edge of the spot was prominent, the middle was sunken, and waterlogged soft rot occurred after leaf infection.

Disease-resistant cultivation, choose a highly dry and ventilated environment, pay attention to drainage, carry out crop rotation, and maintain field hygiene. The disease can only be prevented but not cured, and there is no specific drug.

5. Fusarium wilt

[symptoms] Fusarium wilt occurs mainly on bulbs and sometimes infects leaves and flowers. At the beginning of the disease, there are small reddish-brown spots, and then gradually expand and sunken atrophy, or even rot, and then grow white filaments. After sowing, the damaged bulbs grew poorly, flowered and deformed, while the severe ones could not sprout or die at the seedling stage.

[prevention and control] double selection and disinfection of corms, grading and removal of diseased balls after harvest, soaking bulbs in 0.5% formalin solution for 2 hours, washing with warm water, drying and cold storage until the next spring, making the second selection when sowing, and disinfecting with 500 times of 5% carbendazim, sowing again to avoid continuous cropping.

6. Grey mold

[symptoms] Botrytis cinerea often occurs on leaves and petals, and small grayish-brown spots often appear at the beginning of the disease, then gradually expand, and gray mold appears on the surface of the spot.

[control] reasonable storage of bulbs, keep the environment dry, keep the cultivation environment ventilated and transparent, good drainage, chemical control, 80% Dysen zinc wettable powder 500-700 times liquid spraying effect is better.

7. Thrips

[symptoms] the adults and nymphs of thrips generally hide in the axils of the leaves during the day, and climb to the leaves in cloudy days or at night to harm the plants. Mainly bite the leaves, stems and flowers of the plant, so that the leaves change color, leaving white-gray spots on the Corolla and spawning marks, resulting in petals curling.

[control] it can be sprayed with 1000 times of 40% dimethoate EC or 80% dichlorvos EC.