Culture methods of Chrysanthemum morifolium

Melon-leaf chrysanthemum is one of the main ornamental plants in winter and spring, also known as rich chrysanthemum, cucumber flowers, etc., is a perennial herb of Compositae, often cultivated for 1-2 years, divided into tall and dwarf species, bright flowers, can be used as flower beds or potted plants arranged in the corridor, giving people a fresh and pleasant feeling, let's take a look at the breeding methods of melon leaf chrysanthemum!

Growth habits of Chrysanthemum morifolium

Melon leaf chrysanthemum likes warm, moist and ventilated environment, can not bear high temperature, and is afraid of frost. It is generally cultivated in low temperature greenhouse, the temperature is not less than 5 ℃ at night, but the seedlings can also withstand a low temperature of 1 ℃, no more than 20 ℃ in daytime, and 10: 15 ℃ is the most suitable. If the room temperature is too high, it is easy to grow, resulting in elongation of internodes and lack of commercial value. The temperature is too low, which affects the growth of plants and the development of flowers. Melon-leaf chrysanthemum is a light-loving plant with plenty of sunshine, thick leaves and bright colors, but the sun is too strong, which can also cause leaves to curl and lack of vitality. As the leaves of Chrysanthemum morifolium are large and thin, it is necessary to maintain sufficient water, but not too wet, so it is appropriate for the leaves not to wither.

Culture value of Chrysanthemum morifolium

1, decorative application: melon and leaf chrysanthemum is a greenhouse flower, potted as indoor furnishings, its flowering is early, especially precious in the cold winter, the flowers are rich and bright, especially the blue flowers, flashing velvet-like luster, elegant and moving. The flowers are neat and plump, and can be furnished on a few short shelves indoors, and can also be arranged with multiple pots to form a pattern to decorate the inner courtyard of the hotel or the venue and the vestibule of the theatre, full of flowers and jubilant.

2. Ornamental value: melon-leaf chrysanthemum has colorful flowers, and the main varieties are "red flowers" from Europe, "pink flowers" from Africa, "red spots" from the Mediterranean, and so on. Melon-leaf chrysanthemum is one of the main ornamental potted flowers during New Year's Day and Spring Festival. Melon-leaf chrysanthemum is cross-pollinated, so there are more horticultural varieties.

Propagation methods of Chrysanthemum morifolium

1. Sowing method: the sowing of Chrysanthemum morifolium is usually carried out in late July, and it takes about half a year from sowing to flowering. The sowing time can also be determined according to the time it takes. For example, New Year's Day can choose to sow seeds in mid-late June with flowers. The flower buds can occur earlier when the sunshine is longer, but the stem is slender and the plant is smaller, which affects the overall ornamental effect. Early sowing will lead to luxuriant plants and large flowers, so the sowing date should not be delayed until after August.

2. Cutting method: the double petal variety of Chrysanthemum morifolium is not easy to bear fruit and can be cutted. the root sprouts or axillary buds after flowering are usually cut from January to June as cuttings in the sand, which can take root in about 20-30 days, blossom in 5-6 months, and can also be propagated by root buds.

Culture methods of Chrysanthemum morifolium

1. Soil: melon leaf chrysanthemum likes sandy loam rich in humus and good drainage, avoid drought, afraid of stagnant water, and is suitable for neutral and slightly acidic soil. The pot soil for planting melon leaf chrysanthemum can be mixed with 4 parts of garden soil, 2 parts of rotten leaf soil, 2 parts of compost soil and 2 parts of river sand, and added cake fertilizer and calcium superphosphate fertilizer.

2. Watering: the leaves of Chrysanthemum morifolium are large and thin, which need to maintain sufficient water, but can not make the basin soil too wet, so it is appropriate to keep the leaves from withering. Usually watering should be determined according to the dry and wet condition of the basin soil, and then irrigate once every 2-3 days. Clear water can be sprayed to the leaf surface once a day, and hot weather can be sprayed twice to reduce the temperature and increase the air humidity. After the emergence of buds, watering should be controlled as much as possible, and the flowering period should be placed in a cool environment of 8: 12 ℃, which can prolong the flowering period to 30-40 days.

3. Sunshine: melon and leaf chrysanthemum is a short-day light-loving flower. Sufficient light conditions can not only make the plant canopy neat and compact, bloom luxuriantly, but also enhance disease resistance and reduce the occurrence of diseases and insect pests. Insufficient light will make the flower stem grow slender, the flower color is light but not correct, affecting the beauty. It is appropriate to have 8 hours of sunshine every day. Avoid the scorching sun in summer, otherwise the leaf tip will be withered and yellow. it should be placed in a well-ventilated place with scattered light for maintenance, and insufficient light should be prevented in snowy days in winter.

4. Temperature: melon leaf chrysanthemum likes warmth but can not bear high temperature, and grows best under the condition of 15-20 ℃. When the temperature is higher than 21 ℃, the overgrowth phenomenon can occur, which is not conducive to the formation of flower buds. The growth and development of the plant stopped when the temperature was below 5 ℃, and frost injury occurred when the temperature was below 0 ℃. The suitable temperature for flowering was 10: 15 ℃, and it could not open in bud when the temperature was below 6 ℃. When the temperature was higher than 18 ℃, the flower stem would grow slender and affect the ornamental value.

5. Fertilization: in addition to applying base fertilizer during planting, thin cake fertilizer should be applied every 7 to 10 days in the growth process, or diluted chemical fertilizer can be used. After the appearance of flower buds, 1000 times of potassium dihydrogen phosphate could be applied, and the fertilization lasted until flowering (stopped in rainy season). If the leaves are contaminated during fertilization, they should be washed in time.

6. Insect pests: the common insect diseases of melon and leaf chrysanthemum are aphids and red spiders. If the damage to aphids and red spiders is more serious, they can be sprayed with 2000 times dimethoate diluent. Because red spiders generally occur on the back of the leaves, and aphids generally occur on the tender top of the chrysanthemum, spraying should focus on the back of the leaves and the top of the plant, and the front of the leaves should also be sprayed properly.

Pot planting technique of Chrysanthemum morifolium

1. Preparation before sowing: first, the sowing soil should be ploughed deeply and exposed to the sun for about 20 days. The sowing soil should be mixed with 3 parts of rotten leaf soil, 2 parts of sandy soil and a small amount of cake fertilizer. Disinfect the soil the day before sowing, spray carbendazim evenly, then flatten the soil and pour enough bottom water so that the water content of the soil is not less than 70%.

2. Sowing and dividing seedlings: first of all, the seeding bed should take measures to shade the sun, prevent rain and cool down. Each gram of seed is sown on the surface of the soil and is shallowly covered with a thin layer of soil about 0.5 cm after sowing. Before and after emergence, the soil surface was kept moist, the temperature was controlled at about 25 ℃, and the humidity was controlled at about 60%. About 40 days after emergence, it is necessary to divide the seedlings, the planting density is 12 × 12 cm, shading for about 10 days, and fully watered at one time.

3. Planting in the upper basin: one month after the seedling is divided, the basin is made of plastic basin or mud basin with a diameter of 18 cm. The proportion of nutritious soil is 6 parts of sandy loam, 3 parts of sawdust or rice husk ash and 1 part of cake fertilizer, which should be prepared one month before potting. After potting, the lateral buds of the basal 3-4 nodes of the melon-leaf chrysanthemum should be erased at any time, so as to reduce the consumption of nutrients and avoid excessive congestion of branches and leaves, so as to concentrate more nutrients for the growth of upper flower branches, so as to facilitate the growth of flowers.

Seed retention techniques of Chrysanthemum morifolium

1. Cultivate strong seedlings: melon-leaf chrysanthemum is not resistant to cold, high temperature, good sunshine and moisture, so it is suitable to be planted in a ventilated and cool environment and well-drained soil. it can also be planted in pots, as well as protective facilities such as warmth and shade. Melon-leaf chrysanthemum is very fertile. After planting, it can be watered with thin fertilizer and water every 5 to 7 days, and pay attention to the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to cultivate a strong plant.

2. Management of bud stage: Chrysanthemum morifolium can generally extract 20 to 40 main branches from the main stem, and a bud is formed at the top of each main branch. Three to four lateral branches were drawn from each node of the main branch, and each lateral branch also had a bud. Therefore, it is necessary to prune and fork, generally leaving 15 to 30 strong main branches, and try to make the florescence of each flower consistent, and the rest of the main branches and side branches are wiped out in order to provide centralized nutrition.

3. Florescence management: the main task of flowering period of Chrysanthemum morifolium is to remove tongue flower (marginal flower) and sprout. Removing the tongue flower is usually carried out in the morning, and the tongue flowers of the blooming flowers are removed one by one by hand, and attention should be paid to sprouting.

4. Seed collection: during the mature period, the disk of melon and leaf chrysanthemum seeds is slightly cracked, the calyx begins to fall off, the umbrella villi have begun to appear, the seed coat becomes black, the floc is squeezed out by hand, and the floc also turns black, which indicates that the seed has fully matured. This is the best time to harvest seeds. If they are harvested too late, the seeds will naturally spread and fly away. The seeds were collected and stored according to the different colors of flowers, together with the disk, dried in the sun, and stored in a cool, ventilated and dry place.

Disease and pest control of melon and leaf chrysanthemum

1. Red spider

[harm] the harm of red spiders to melon and leaf chrysanthemum began in March, when the temperature in the greenhouse was dry. After overwintering, the female adults begin to feed and lay eggs, and they usually do harm around the main veins on the back of the leaves. The small white spots with loss of green can be seen on the front of the injured leaves at first, then turn red gradually, and the screen appears on the back of the leaves, and the injured leaves will eventually fall off.

[prevention and control] the earliest prevention should be in winter, to ensure a clean environment around melon, leaf and chrysanthemum, timely removal of weeds and fallen leaves, inspection of basin soil, and elimination of overwintering insect sources. In the pest occurrence period, if the melon leaf chrysanthemum has not yet budded and blossomed, it can be sprayed with 2000 times dicofol emulsion or 40% omethoate 1000 times every 7 days, a total of 2 times 3 times, the effect is better. If the melon leaf chrysanthemum has budded and blossomed, in order to avoid flower sensitivity, try not to spray pesticides. It can be washed with foliar spray or glued with chewing gum to remove insects, and can also be sprayed with the extract of some natural plants such as garlic, onions, pepper and so on after several days of tamping blisters with an appropriate amount of neutral washing powder.

2. Aphids

[harm] aphids are small and multiply quickly, and they are mostly clustered on the back of leaves and tender stems of Chrysanthemum morifolium to absorb juice. The injured leaves turn yellow and curl and wrinkle to the back. In general, the years of warm winter, early warming in spring and even Rain Water began to do harm in March.

[control] because aphids will overwinter with eggs on Chrysanthemum morifolium, after checking the plant in winter, spray the plant with Baume 5-degree stone sulfur mixture to eliminate the overwintering eggs. Spray 40% omethoate 1200-2000 times or 40% acephate 1000 times during the aphid damage period. In order to avoid drug damage during flowering, botanical agents such as 3% natural pyrethrum, 25% rattan essence and 40% sulfuric acid tobacco essence can be diluted to 1000-1500 times solution.

3. Poisonous moth

[harm] the harm of poisonous moth to melon and leaf chrysanthemum is mainly larva, which is often called poison caterpillar. The first instar larvae cluster to do harm, gnawing on the mesophyll, leaving the epidermis, like a skylight. The larger poisonous caterpillars disperse the damage and bite the leaves into notches and holes. The whole plant began to suffer from the larger leaves in the lower part. The peak period of insect pests is mostly in April, when the temperature in the greenhouse is stable at about 20 ℃.

[prevention and treatment] if drug control is taken, 50% fenitrothion or 50% phoxim can be sprayed 1000 times. But at this time, melon-leaf chrysanthemum is usually in the flowering stage, only manual hunting is more safe. It is worth noting that the poisonous caterpillar is toxic to human skin and can cause dermatitis, so it is necessary to wear gloves and catch with tweezers to prevent it.

4. Powdery mildew

[harm] Chrysanthemum morifolium is the most susceptible to powdery mildew, which is a widely spread fungal disease. A white adhesive appeared on the front of the infected leaves, curled and deformed, withered and fell early.

The simplest way of prevention is to ensure adequate light and timely ventilation. If the disease has already occurred, it is necessary to use 1000 times of 70% methyl topiramate or 50% diluted 50% Dysenamine at the initial stage, or 2000 times of 25% vermicellin wettable powder to control the disease. At the same time, the diseased leaves were cut off and destroyed, and the diseased plants were separated from healthy plants so as not to infect each other and aggravate the spread of the disease.

5. Root rot and stem rot

[harm] in winter, the water in the potted soil of melon and leaf chrysanthemum is often not easy to dry, poor drainage, lack of indoor light, excessive moist air and other bad factors will cause root rot and stem rot. The root and stem are black and rotten.

[prevention and treatment] first, after watering, pay attention to ventilation and reduce humidity and increase light. Secondly, the newly diseased melon-leaf chrysanthemum was cut off, applied with sulfur powder, and replanted with loose culture soil.

6. Verticillium wilt

Verticillium wilt is mainly caused by viral pathogens. The tillering of the injured plant is very strong, the inflorescence is suppressed, the flower color turns green, the development is abnormal, and there is the phenomenon of flower growing occasionally. The virus is usually spread by leafhoppers.

[control] potassium fertilizer can be properly applied during the growth period to enhance plant disease resistance and reduce the chance of virus infection. Spraying 0.5% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for disinfection can play a preventive role. When it is found that the plant is infected with the virus, the diseased plant should be pulled out and burned immediately to prevent spread.