Culture methods and matters needing attention of White Crane Taro
White crane taro is one of the most important ornamental flowers in the world, such as taro, white palm, plain sailing, lily intention and so on. It is a perennial herb of Araceae with emerald green leaves and white Buddha bud. It is very fresh and elegant. It has been used in potted ornamental plants since the beginning of the 20th century. It has been very popular in Europe in the 1980s. Let's take a look at the breeding methods and matters needing attention of white taro.
Growth habits of White Crane Taro
White crane taro likes high temperature, humid and semi-overcast environment, is sensitive to humidity, is afraid of strong light exposure, and has 60% to 70% shade in summer, but it is not easy to blossom because of lack of light for a long time. The soil should be rich and humus-rich loam. The suitable temperature for growth is 22: 28 ℃, 24: 30 ℃ from March to September, 18: 21 ℃ from September to March of the following year, the winter temperature is not lower than 14 ℃, the temperature below 10 ℃ hinders the growth of plants, and the leaves are vulnerable to freezing injury. During the storage and transportation of potted white crane taro, the temperature is controlled at 13-16 ℃, the relative humidity is 80-90%, and it can withstand dark environment for 30 days.
Propagation techniques of White Crane Taro
1. Ramet: the best way for ramet propagation is from May to June. The whole plant is pulled out of the pot and the rhizome is cut from the base of the clump. There are at least 4 leaves in each clump. After planting, the plant is restored in half a shade.
2. Sowing: seeds can be obtained by artificial pollination after flowering. The seeds should be sowed immediately after seed collection. The germination temperature is 30 ℃ and germinates 10-15 days after sowing. If the temperature is too low during germination, the seeds are easy to rot. After disinfection, it was inoculated on the added medium, and calli and adventitious buds grew after 45 days.
3. Tissue culture: young inflorescences and lateral buds were used as explants and inoculated on MS medium supplemented with 10 mg / L 6-benzylaminoadenine and 2 mg / 1 indole acetic acid after disinfection. Callus and adventitious buds grew after 40 days, and then the adventitious buds were transferred to MS medium with 2 mg / L indole acetic acid.
Culture method of White Crane Taro
1. Soil: White crane taro potted plants require loose soil, good drainage and ventilation, and can not use clayey soil. Generally, rotten leaf soil, peat soil and a small amount of perlite can be used as substrate, and a small amount of organic fertilizer can be added as base fertilizer when planting.
2. Ramets: White crane taro ramets are usually carried out from March to May in spring or after autumn. Two-year-old plants with strong growth are selected for ramet propagation. The whole plant is pulled out of the basin and the rhizome is cut from the base of the plant clump. There are at least 3 or 4 leaves in each clump.
3. Pot: put the ramet plant back into the pot, put it in half shade after planting and wait for it to take root. what you need to pay attention to here is to have a stem when cutting, and then apply charcoal ash to the wound to prevent decay. When the root system returns to normal, it can enter the normal management.
4. Illumination: light is very important for plant growth. White crane taro needs better light in winter and early spring, but it should be shaded gradually when the light is getting stronger. If you enjoy it in the shade, you can't directly expose it to the sun. This is very bad for the growth of white crane taro.
5. Temperature: White crane taro is a high-temperature species and should be cultivated in high-temperature greenhouse. The lowest temperature in winter should be 14-16 ℃ at night and about 25 ℃ in daytime.
6. Watering: White crane taro should always keep the basin soil moist during the growth period, but not too much watering, too much watering basin soil will be wet for a long time, easy to cause rotten roots and plants withered and yellow.
7, fertilization: White crane taro fertilization do not apply thick fertilizer or raw fertilizer, and after the application of solid fertilizer, it is best to use thin fertilizer instead of clear water irrigation, so that generally will not produce fertilizer damage, and white crane taro will grow very luxuriantly.
8. Insect pests: White crane taro is the most popular pest during the growth period, so special mites should be sprayed regularly, such as triclofenac, Nisolan, pyridaben and so on.
9. Change the basin: change the basin every 1 to 2 years, change the basin, trim the root system, remove part of the old root and over-long root system, remove the old soil and replace it with new culture soil, so as to facilitate the flowering of taro.
Cultivation skills of White Crane Taro
1. White crane taro is easy to grow, but the demand for magnesium is much higher than that of many other foliage plants. When magnesium supply is insufficient, the edge of the old leaves of white crane taro will turn yellow. Growers should use liquid fertilizer or solid fertilizer to supplement magnesium to the plant. Magnesium sulfate, magnesium nitrate or magnesium chelate can also be sprayed regularly on the plant.
2. Generally speaking, the degree of shade needed to grow white taro is at least 73%. 80% of the shade will be better in summer, and if the light level is too low, the color of the leaves will become lighter and the growth will be blocked.
3. If the plant is infected with root rot, its root system will turn black, and the old leaves will wither and wither, and in serious cases, it will lead to plant death. There is no variety of white crane taro with good resistance to root rot on the market, so the best method is prevention. Spraying fungicides can prevent root rot, but can not cure the disease.
4. plant flowering was induced by spraying gibberellic acid, and the flowering time varied with different varieties. generally speaking, small varieties responded quickly to gibberellic acid, which could blossom in 7 to 9 weeks after spraying, 10 to 11 weeks in medium varieties and 12 to 13 weeks in large varieties. It should be noted that too high concentration of gibberellic acid will cause plant flower deformation.
5. White crane taro should choose the appropriate size container according to the variety. Some small varieties are suitable for planting in 4-inch containers, while some large varieties are suitable for growing in 21-inch containers. Growers should choose according to the actual situation.
What if the white crane taro wilts?
1, improper lighting: White crane taro needs better light in winter and early spring, do not shade, and gradually shade when the light is getting stronger, if you enjoy it in the shade, it should not be directly exposed to the sun, otherwise it will be uncomfortable due to rapid changes in the environment, such as wilting, yellow leaves, and even death.
2. Humidity discomfort: White crane taro needs high growth humidity. If the air is too dry, it will cause leaf wilting, which can be solved by strengthening water spraying or environmental ground spraying, or covered with transparent plastic bags. however, when the light is good, it is necessary to ventilate slightly or open a mouthful of ventilation on the top of the plastic bag, otherwise the temperature in the bag will rise sharply.
3. Improper fertilization: fertilizer should be applied thinly, not thick fertilizer or raw fertilizer, and after applying solid fertilizer, water should be irrigated once. It is best to use thin fertilizer instead of water, so that it generally does not produce fertilizer damage, and the plant grows luxuriantly.
4. Temperature discomfort: generally, this situation will not happen at this time, and it is easy to occur when the temperature is lower than 5 ℃ or higher than 35 ℃.
5. causes of insect pests: if harmful mites are harmful, the leaves show bad symptoms such as wilting, gloss desalination, yellow blight and so on, which can be controlled by spraying special mites, such as triclofenac, Nisolan, pyridaben and so on.
Matters needing attention in White Crane Taro Culture
January: potted white taro is placed on a sunny windowsill or balcony and blossoms as usual at 15: 18 ℃ at room temperature. The basin soil should be watered immediately, once every ten days, to keep the soil moist, and avoid high and low indoor temperature and low temperature and humidity, resulting in brown spots and mildew spots on the edge of the spawn.
In February, the position of the white crane taro plant remained unchanged, the room temperature was kept at 15: 18 ℃, and the flower stem continued to blossom from the leaves. If the room temperature is about 10 ℃, it can survive the winter safely, but it is difficult to draw out the flowering stem and continue to bloom. Keep the basin soil moist. If the indoor air is dry, spray water to the ground or basin surface to increase air humidity. The flower plant should stay away from the air conditioner mouth and radiator to prevent the flame bud from dying early.
March: the daily management of the white crane taro plant is the same as last month, the flower plant should stay away from the air conditioner or radiator, avoid the flame bud wilting ahead of time, and use a brush for artificial pollination to improve the seed setting rate.
April: when the temperature rises, the white crane taro blossoms more and more, watering 2 or 3 times a week to keep the potted soil slightly moist. Fertilize once a month, but nitrogen fertilizer should not be excessive. Otherwise, it will affect the flowering. Prevent the harm of root rot and stem rot.
May: in full bloom, potted flowers are still placed on sunny windowsills or balconies, keeping room temperature at 1820 ℃, watering 3 times a week and fertilizing once a month. Indoor pot sowing was used for sowing and propagation, peat soil was used for sowing, shallow soil was covered after sowing, the optimum temperature for germination was 23-27 ℃, and germinated 10-15 days after sowing. If the room temperature is too low, the seeds are vulnerable to wet rot.
June: flowering gradually decreased, combined with ramet to change the basin, lift the whole plant out of the basin, remove the persistent soil, cut off the long fibrous root, cut the rhizome from the base of the clump, and ensure that each clump has 3-4 buds. Pot soil is a mixture of garden soil, rotten leaf soil and river sand, which is preserved in a semi-shady place after pot planting.
July: the methods of continuing to divide plants and changing pots were the same as last month. After the seedlings resumed growth, the basin soil was kept slightly moist. When the sun shines directly, shade properly and apply thin fertilizer once a month. Prevent the harm of shell insects.
August: in addition to keeping the basin soil moist in the high temperature season, spray more water to the leaves and maintain high air humidity, which is very beneficial to the growth of leaves. Strong light shade, but long-term lack of light, it is not easy to form flower buds, can not bloom.
September: the temperature gets cooler and the plant continues to pull out the flower stem from the leaves and blossom. Water 2-3 times a week to keep the basin slightly moist. Fertilize once a month. Prevent the harm of leaf spot and brown spot.
October: the plant continued to blossom at room temperature at 15: 18 ℃. Watering 2-3 times a week, slowly control the amount of water, stop fertilization, avoid plant growth too fast and reduce cold resistance.
November: potted plants are placed on a sunny windowsill or balcony, keep room temperature 1518 ℃, water once every ten days, and keep the potted soil slightly moist.
In December, the position of potted plants remained unchanged, the room temperature was kept at 15: 18 ℃, once every ten days, the yellow leaves and withered leaves were cut off, and the dust on the leaves was gently wiped off with a slightly wet soft cloth to keep the leaves clean and bright.
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