Seedling raising technique of Chinese rose

Rose is a rose plant of the rose family, and its reproduction is divided into asexual reproduction and sexual reproduction. Sexual reproduction is mostly used to cultivate new varieties or produce rootstocks. Asexual reproduction has the methods of cutting, ramet, striping and tissue culture. Cutting propagation can not only maintain the excellent characteristics of the female parent, but also simple and easy to learn, fast reproduction and high survival rate. Let's take a look at the cutting seedling raising technology of Chinese rose.

Growth habit

Although the requirements of Chinese rose on climate and soil are not strict, it is more suitable for loam which is loose, fertile, rich in organic matter, slightly acidic and well drained. Sex likes a warm, sunny, well-ventilated environment. The optimum temperature of most varieties is 15: 26 ℃ during the day and 10: 15 ℃ at night. Dormancy occurs when the winter temperature is below 5 ℃. Some varieties can withstand the low temperature of-15 ℃ and the high temperature of 35 ℃. When the summer temperature lasts more than 30 ℃, the plant will enter semi-dormancy and grow poorly. Although it can also conceive buds, the flower petals are few, the color is dim and dull, and the ornamental value is lost.

Cutting time

The cutting of Chinese rose can be carried out in both spring and autumn, and the spring is from late April to the end of May, when the climate is mild, the branches are strong, it can take root one month after cutting, and the survival rate is high. Autumn cutting is carried out from late August to the end of October, when the cutting is greatly affected by the temperature difference between day and night, the rooting is relatively slow, it takes 40-50 days to take root, and the survival rate is slightly lower than that of spring cutting.

Seedbed preparation

The cuttage bed of Chinese rose should be selected in the place with deep soil layer, loose structure, good permeability, good drainage and air circulation, the seedling bed is 1 meter wide and 3 meters long, and the size of the seedling bed does not have much effect on the survival of the cuttings. it should be determined according to the needs, and the larger one can be selected when a large number of propagation is needed, and vice versa.

Matrix selection

Rose cuttings can also take root when directly inserted into ordinary soil, but the survival rate is not high and is not suitable for mass production. Therefore, generally choose fine sand as the matrix, fine sand had better not been used, in order to prevent cuttings from rooting in the process of decay, you can add formaldehyde in the fine sand, press 5ml / cubic meter, and put the fine sand on the clean beach and turn it about 3 times, so that formaldehyde can be completely volatilized, 3 days later can fill the bed. When filling fine sand, it should be evenly assisted on the seedbed, gently suppress, and pour water once, and gently scrape the sand surface with wooden blocks when the water is not dry.

Harvest branches

Choose the robust branches of the upper part of the plant which are vigorous in growth and free from diseases and insect pests (powdery mildew and black spot). It is not good to be too old and too tender, and the survival rate is affected, and the branches that have just withered flowers are the best. After cutting the branches, in order to prevent powdery mildew and black coal disease in the cutting process, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 1000 times.

Cuttings treatment

When too many branches are harvested, they should be soaked in water or stacked under the shade (should be often sprayed to moisturize). First cut off the residual flowers on the upper part of the branch, select the middle and lower parts of the branch, cut a section every 10 cm or so, as a cuttage, and retain 3-4 axillary buds on it. Leave no leaves or only 1 or 2 leaves at the top to prevent the loss of water and nutrients in the cuttings, facilitate the rooting of cuttings and control the growth of branches and leaves. The upper end of the cuttings is cut into a flat mouth, and the lower end is cut into an oblique mouth, which is several millimeters away from the axillary buds. The cut should be smooth in order to form healing tissue, which is conducive to rooting and cannot be cut and draped, otherwise it will be difficult to take root and form seedlings. The branches collected should be cut as soon as possible, usually within 1-2 hours.

Cutting method

Rose cuttage seedlings as far as possible with pruning, with treatment, with cutting. Cuttings can not hurt the skin, generally use a small stick of 0.6 to 0.8 cm to cut a small hole in the cutter, and then put the cuttings in the human hole. The depth of cutting is 1 × 3 of the length of cuttings, and the row spacing is 10 × 15 cm. After cutting, the sand is gently compacted by hand. Cuttings should pay attention to maintain the polarity of cuttings, especially those without leaves, can not be cut down (so that the bud eyes upward), otherwise affect the survival rate, with leaves it is best to make the leaves in one direction (bright direction). After all, sprinkle a small amount of fine sand and water once, so that the cuttings are closely combined with the sand body.

Plug-in management

1. Canopy shading: the best temperature for roses to take root is 20 ℃ to 25 ℃. Shading is needed during the cutting period. Plastic sheds can adjust the temperature and humidity of soil and air. Sunshade net can prevent direct sunlight and reduce temperature. Excessive temperature can not only cover the sunshade net, but also water and ventilate to cool down.

2. Timely watering: the leaves have not yet sprouted in the early stage of rose cuttage, and the water supply should not be too much. It can be watered once every 7 to 10 days. After a month, the panicle began to take root and shoot, and the water consumption increased gradually, which should be irrigated every 3 to 5 days. The amount of water should be determined according to soil moisture and air humidity, so that the soil is moderately dry and wet.

3. Rational fertilization: rose cuttings do not need much fertilizer, and basic fertilizer has been applied during soil preparation, so there is no need for soil fertilization before seedling transplanting, but foliar fertilization should be carried out. That is, after cutting for one month, 0.3% urea liquid fertilizer and 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate liquid fertilizer are used in turn every half a month for foliar fertilization to promote rooting.