How to raise the flytrap best?

Flytrap is a perennial herb native to North America, a very interesting insectivorous plant with a short stem, a shell-like trap on the top of the leaf, and can secrete nectar. When a bug enters, it can be caught at a very fast speed, digested and absorbed. Let's take a look at how best to raise the flytrap.

Growth habits of flytrap

Flytrap likes a cool and humid environment. It needs sufficient light in the growing season. The suitable temperature for growth is 15-20 ℃. It should be placed in a bright place indoors. The summer temperature is high, the direct sunlight growth is bad, should carry on the shade, especially in the southern tropics and subtropics, to prevent the temperature from being too high, lest affect the growth. In winter in the northern region, it is necessary to enter the greenhouse and families with heating conditions, put it in a place where the sun can shine, and keep the temperature above 10 ℃, and the lowest temperature should not be lower than 7 ℃, so as to avoid freezing damage and causing fallen leaves.

Asexual reproduction of flytrap

1. Leaf insertion method: peel the whole leaf of the flytrap from the mother plant, insert it obliquely or horizontally on a clean substrate such as water moss, maintain high humidity and bright light, and sprout in about 2 months.

2. Ramet method: flytraps often grow lateral buds. When they are large enough, the bulbs of ramets will naturally separate from the mother plant. At this time, they can be dug up and cultivated separately or planted separately when changing pots.

3. Flower bud method: the flower bud of the flytrap sometimes turns into a plant. It is already known that this phenomenon is caused by the temperature difference. If the temperature difference between day and night is great, it will induce the flytrap flower bud to transform into a new plant. At this time, this small plant can be cut off and planted in the soil, and it will be a new flytrap.

Seed propagation of flytrap

1. Flowerpot: fill the flowerpot with the substrate and put it in a glass jar or basin with pure water left, so that the matrix absorbs water to the surface, and then spray the surface with a spray bottle (fog spray).

2. Sowing: carefully open the seed package, spread the seeds evenly on the surface of the substrate, and cover with 0.3 cm of culture soil.

3. Spray water: spray the surface with a spray bottle (spray), spray carefully so as not to wash away the seeds.

4. Cultivation: put the seeded flowerpot together with the glass tank or water basin on the inside of the sunny windowsill. If it is a water basin, a plastic cover with a top opening should be added to moisturize. Pay attention to timely replenishment of water, generally about 10 days germination (20 degrees).

5. seedling: it can be transplanted when 2 or 3 true leaves grow out of the seedling. The transplant is covered with water moss around the base of the plant (not too high, it is suitable to cover the root), and has a certain degree of compactness (pinched with fingers, it can be sunken and then bounced back). After transplantation, pour through the root water with clean water.

Culture methods of flytrap

1. Substrate: the substrate with good water retention, acidity and even strong acidity should be used in the cultivation of flytrap, and the PH value is between 3 and 5. You can use a mixture of pure water moss or 2 parts of peat plus 1 part of perlite or coarse sand, and basin soaking can use a mixture of 1 part of peat, 1 part of perlite or coarse sand. When planting, all the white bulbs should be buried in the matrix. If it is difficult to operate when the leaves are bent downward, they can be easily implanted with water moss on the stem or after the leaves are supported. The matrix can be changed once a year or two according to the actual use, and it is best to change the basin before growing in early spring. The withered leaves should be cleaned up when changing the basin, and if there are ramets, they should be planted separately to facilitate growth. The bulb of flycatcher grows creeping, and the plant will shift after a period of time in order to obtain more nutrients. When changing the basin, it should be replanted in the center of the basin or leave more distance in the direction of the growing point.

2. Moisture: the flytrap is sensitive to salt, and the high concentration of minerals in the water will cause the plant to decline until death, showing that the plant stops growing or becomes smaller, and the unaged clamp, leaf edge and terminal bud begin to wither. So water with low mineral content must be used. Flycatcher likes to be wet and can not tolerate dryness. it is necessary to keep the substrate with high humidity but not stagnant water in the growing season. in addition to daily watering, the low water level basin immersion method can also be used to plant the flycatch. the substrate can never be dry, and the plant will shrink after drying, which will cause serious damage or even death. During the dormant period, the substrate should be kept wet but not wet, and the plants that are too wet are easy to rot.

3. Humidity: the air humidity of the flytrap should be kept above 50%, and the general planting environment can be satisfied without special humidification, as long as the basin soil is moist. However, the new species of flytrap must maintain high humidity to avoid dehydration and atrophy, and then gradually reduce the air humidity after the plants with long roots begin to grow normally.

4. Temperature: the suitable temperature for growth is 20-30 degrees, and can survive at-7-38 degrees. High temperature in summer (the highest temperature is more than 35 degrees) is easy to rot stems, good ventilation, root cooling, good light, large temperature difference between day and night all help to reduce the occurrence of the disease. Winter temperature below 10 degrees will dormancy, dormancy when most of the leaves will wither, leaving only a very small center of dormant leaves, such as the temperature further dropped to about 0 degrees, when the leaves and roots may all wither, leaving only underground bulbs for the winter. The dormant bulb is relatively antifreeze and can withstand the low temperature of ~ 7 degrees for a short time.

5. Lighting: flycatcher is a light-loving plant, which can accept all-day sunlight. Suitable light can make the plant strong, the clamp bigger and the color bright. But in summer, in order to avoid high temperature, it can be shaded properly, and a shading net with a shading rate of about 50% can be used to shade or put it in a bright place where there is no sun around noon. Lack of light will make the plant weak, grow slowly, the leaf is dark green and tender, the clip is small, and the clip or petiole is red and turns green under normal conditions (in this case, it is not appropriate to provide strong light immediately, so as to avoid sunburn caused by not adapting to the strong light, the light should be strengthened gradually).

6, nutrients: in the growing season, you can use general compound fertilizer and other diluted 5000 times to spray foliar, once or twice a month. Fertilization would rather be applied with thin fertilizer frequently, not too high concentration, so as to avoid serious consequences of fat injury or even death. Do not apply fertilizer at will without experience. Feeding method can also be used to feed insects or fresh lean meat, and the size should be appropriate, the size of the clip is appropriate, so that the clip can completely cover the food, the number of clips can not exceed 1 inch 3 of the total number of clips. But even if it is not fertilized or fed, the flytrap will not "starve to death". There are also necessary nutrients in the substrate, and plants must grow through photosynthesis. Feeding cannot replace photosynthesis, and it still needs to maintain good light.

7, diseases and insect pests: hot and humid summer, easy to occur leaf spot disease, stem rot, can be sprayed broad-spectrum fungicide control. Good ventilation, root cooling, good light and large temperature difference between day and night all help to reduce the occurrence of diseases. If it is found that part of the stem has rotted, the rotten part should be thoroughly removed immediately, then soaked in fungicide for 5 minutes, and then implanted into the sterilized clean substrate.