MySheen

Planting techniques of Pepper

Published: 2024-11-22 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/22, Planting techniques of Pepper

Pepper is an important spice crop native to India, also known as Guyue, Heichuan and Shirakawa. It is not only a commonly used condiment, but also has certain medicinal properties. Pepper is warm and can dissipate cold. Pepper has an antiseptic and bacteriostatic effect, and it can detoxify fish and shrimp. There are many varieties of pepper, which can be divided into two types: large-leaf species and small-leaf species (with strong resistance).

Growth habits of Pepper

Pepper grows in shady woods. Slow growth, heat resistance, cold resistance, drought resistance, wind resistance, shear resistance, easy to transplant. I can't stand waterlogging. Fertile sandy loam is the best cultivated soil, and good drainage and light are needed. It is cultivated in Taiwan, Fujian, Guangdong, Guangxi and Yunnan provinces. Originally from Southeast Asia, it is now widely planted in the tropics.

Prepare pepper before planting

1. The selection and planning of pepper garden. Pepper is afraid of stagnant water, so you should choose gentle sloping land, flat land with good drainage and well-permeable soil to plant. Pepper garden area should not be too large, generally 3-5 mu is appropriate. Pepper orchard is best rectangular, east-west direction, around to build a shelterbelt or retain the original forest belt. The pepper garden should have a drainage system to remove stagnant water. The pepper orchard is 2 meters away from the shelterbelt and 2.5 meters from the pepper, digging a large ditch with a width of about 100 cm and a depth of 80 cm; a longitudinal ditch is set up every 15 trees in the garden, 60 cm wide and 50 cm deep; and small ditches are set up between rows to facilitate drainage and reduce water damage and diseases.

2. Reclamation. First draw the shelterbelt, then plough 30 centimeters deep, remove the stumps, roots, sundries and so on in the garden. If the slope is less than 5 °, the terrace will be 6 meters wide and have two rows. Build small terraces with a slope of more than 5 °and plant a row. Dig a small drainage ditch on the inside of the terrace. On flat land, gentle slopes and large terraces. Ridge planting can also be used, which is conducive to drainage and disease prevention. The hole is 80 cm wide and 60 cm deep. When digging the hole, the topsoil and subsoil are placed separately. After a month of exposure, return to the soil, apply fully mature, clean, fine broken organic fertilizer 30 kg, calcium superphosphate 0.25-0.5 kg, fully mixed with the topsoil to make a mound, ready to colonize.

3. Opening acupoints. In general, the row spacing is 2 × 2.5 ~ 3 meters, the fertile soil is 2 × 3 meters, and the lean land is 2 × 2 meters. The hole is 80 cm wide and 60 cm deep. When digging the hole, the topsoil and subsoil are placed separately. Return to the soil after exposure for a month (topsoil is the first). Before returning to the soil, apply 5 kg of bio-organic fertilizer (or 10 kg of fermented organic fertilizer containing phosphate fertilizer), fully mix it with the topsoil and make a mound ready for planting.

4. Prop. Stone pillars are commonly used now. It is 12-15 cm thick and 2.5-3 m long (including 50-70 cm of embedded part). A tree that provides pepper climbing and growth is called a living pillar. At present, the living pillars used are paulownia, thick bark tree, oxtail edge, Pingpo tree, betel nut, coconut, jackfruit and so on. When using living pillars, attention should be paid to pruning and fertilization management. Another kind of pillar is the stone pillar. Generally speaking, the stem of the stone pillar is 1315 cm thick, the end is 10 cm thick and 12 cm thick, and the length is about 3 meters (including 70 cm of the embedded part). And the size is relatively uniform. If the diameter of the stone pillar near the ground is less than 12 cm, it is easy to be broken by a strong typhoon.

Propagation and Seedling raising of Pepper

The reproduction of pepper can be divided into sexual reproduction and asexual reproduction. Asexual reproduction is mainly cutting propagation, which is the most commonly used reproduction method in production. Sexual reproduction is only used for breeding, rarely used in production, and sexual reproduction is not mentioned here.

The main results are as follows: 1. To prepare the seedling land, choose the sandy loam soil with calm wind environment, flat land or gentle slope, close to the water source, fertile soil and good drainage. A month before seedling cultivation, deep ploughing and fine raking was carried out, stones and impurities were removed, the soil was fully exposed and leveled, and then ditches were opened according to the width of 100m, 120cm, 25m, 35cm, and the width of the ditch was 40cm. The length of the border depended on the length of the nursery ground, and drainage ditches were opened all around.

2. Cuttage propagation The 1-2.5-year-old young plant with normal growth was selected as the mother plant. The vine age was 4-6 months and the vine was more than 0.6 cm thick from the mother plant in 5-6 months. there were well-developed vital roots on each node, free from diseases and insect pests and mechanical damages. the top two nodes each had a branch and a main vine with 12-15 leaves, and then cut into 30-40 cm long cuttings with 5-7 nodes, leaving three branches on both sides. Cut off the long branches. Cuttings should be cut as soon as they are cut, and the cutting mouth should be dipped in water or the lower part of the cuttings without split skills should be immersed in water for 15-20 minutes. It is best to cut and raise seedlings on the same day. It is advisable to take strips to raise seedlings in cloudy or sunny afternoon when the temperature drops and the light decreases, trench the whole seedling border according to the row spacing of 25-30 cm, and then arrange the cuttings on the surface according to 8-10 cm, so that the air root is close to the inclined soil and keep the first section under the top exposed to the ground. then compacted with the overlying soil from the bottom to the top (using the second row of ditching soil) to be drenched in a timely manner. Finally, a shed was built on the border for shade, and the shade was maintained at 80%, so as to create a humid and cool environment and improve the survival rate.

3. Seedling management, during the period of pepper seedling, the nursery management should be strengthened. On a sunny day, water is drenched once a day to keep the soil moist. After cuttings take root (usually 10ml for 15 days), the number of times of dripping can be reduced gradually, it can be drenched once every 3 days, the first 20 Mel for 25 days, the cuttings grow new roots, and when the top two nodes begin to grow, they can be dug and moved to the pepper orchard for planting, the seedling time is too long, the roots are too many and long, the new vines are drawn out slender, and the roots are easy to hurt during planting, affecting survival and growth. When raising the seedling, you should first drench the seedling bed and then dig the seedling to avoid root injury. Cut off the overgrown roots and new vines, leaving only 5 Mel 10 cm and 2 Mel 3 nodes of the new main vine to facilitate plant growth. It is best to dig seedlings and plant them on the same day.

4. nutrition bag cutting seedlings, nutrition bag seedlings to facilitate long-distance transportation, at the same time can improve the survival rate of transplanting seedlings, such as seedlings used for sale or when the nursery is far away from the pepper garden.

① preparation of nutrient soil: the preparation of nutrient soil is the key to the cultivation of nutrition bag seedlings. The configuration of nutrient soil directly affects the growth, development and quality of seedlings. The matrix for preparing nutrient soil should be determined according to the conditions around the nursery. Generally, forest soil and fire ash should be mixed with appropriate amount of common calcium, the ratio of 101 0.2 is appropriate, in order to make the nutrient of nutritious soil sufficient and meet the requirements of seedling stage. Combined with the preparation of nutritious soil, carbendazim 300 times or methyl thiophanate 500 times solution was sprayed to disinfect the soil.

② nutritious soil bagging: sift the configured nutritious soil with mesh 0.8X0.8 cm fine iron, mix the materials evenly, put them into plastic film bags of specifications 10X13 cm, and then put them all on the seedling bed, the number of bags to facilitate management, generally 20 bags per row, it is required that the bags should be placed properly, and there should be no gap between the bags. After the nursery bed is full, surround the bags around the seedbed with soil, and the height can be 1/2 of the bag height, in order to maintain the moisture and temperature of the seedbed, generally put 110000 bags per mu.

③ nutrient soil bag 1-2 days after placement, cutting, cutting with a small stick in the bag a small hole, along the hole to insert the treated cuttings. Then gently step on the bag soil with your hand, make the nutritious soil fully contact with the cuttings, and sprinkle with water in time, and then drench with water every other day or 2-3 days. After the cuttings sprout and take root, make sure that the bag is moist and meet the moisture needed for growth. Finally, a shelter is built on the border surface to keep the shade at 80-85%, so as to create a humid and cool environment and improve the survival rate of seedlings.

Planting techniques of Pepper

1. Planting: in the cloudy and sunny afternoons of spring and autumn, planting should be carried out on cloudy and sunny afternoons. It is not suitable to plant when the soil moisture is too high. Cover with grass, shade and sprinkle with water. Drip water with planting treasure 1000 times liquid, that is, 10 kilograms of water 1 bottle cap (1 liter bottle), water can be gradually reduced after survival.

2. Planting method. The direction of planting should be consistent with the trend of terraces. When planting, the distance from the pillar is 20cm, the depth of the hole is 30cm, the slope is 50 °slope, and compacted. When planting single seedlings, the seedlings are placed opposite the column; when planting double seedlings, the seedlings are placed in the shape of "eight characters" facing the column. The upper end of each seedling shows the soil surface, and the root system of the seedling is close to the slope, evenly distributed, and extends naturally, then the cover soil is pressed, 5 kilograms of rotten organic fertilizer is applied on both sides of the seedling, and then returned to the soil to make a pot-bottom-shaped mound in the middle. Cover grass, shade and sprinkle enough fixed root water. The shade degree is 80% and 90%. Water can be drenched once every 1-2 days after planting, and it can be reduced gradually after survival. Keep shade for a year after planting. Don't let the sun burn the pepper head and cause the seedlings to die. If there are dead plants after planting, they should be replanted in time. When the pepper seedling pulls out the new vine, plant the pillar in time. In addition, attention should be paid to loosening soil, weeding, fertilizing and binding vines.

3. Fertilization

The fertilization of young pepper in ① should be mainly based on water and fertilizer with more nitrogen, combined with organic fertilizer and a small amount of chemical fertilizer, and carry out the principle of applying less frequently and more in the growing season. Organic fertilizer and phosphate fertilizer are applied in spring. Each plant was applied 30 kg of rotten cow manure compost and 0.5 kg of superphosphate, and combined with fertilization, hole expansion was carried out to improve the soil. Apply alternately on both sides of the plant and on the front of the pepper head. The first fat hole is on the side of the pepper head, and the inner wall of the hole is 60 centimeters away from the pepper head. Connect the fat hole with the planting pond. Feitang cave is 30 cm wide, 80 cm long and 70 cm deep. When fertilizing, choose to return the topsoil to half, then fertilize it, mix the topsoil and fertilizer well, and press it tightly when returning to the soil, and slightly higher than the ground. To prevent the accumulation of water in the fat cave. Hole expansion and soil improvement should be completed before the top of the plant is sealed and flowered.

During the normal growth period of ②, water and fertilizer were applied every 20-30 days. Water and fertilizer is made from human and animal feces and urine and green leaves. One-year-old pepper is applied 2kg to 3kg per plant. If the concentration of water and fertilizer is low, 0.2 kg of compound fertilizer can be added per load. Water and fertilizer are generally applied in alternate ditches on the front and sides of the plant. Before each vine cutting, better quality water and fertilizer and 0.1 kg compound fertilizer per plant were applied to promote plant growth. It is generally not suitable to apply available nitrogen fertilizer in winter. Potash fertilizer and compound fertilizer should be applied. 0.1 kg per plant, fire can also be applied to burn the soil, 10-15 kg per plant, in order to improve the cold resistance of the plant.

Fertilization of ③ fruiting trees should be carried out according to the nutrient requirements of each phenological phase of pepper flowering and fruiting. Generally, fertilization is applied for 4 to 5 times in each fruit cycle. The amount of fertilizer applied per plant is about 30kg of cow manure or compost, 1kg of cake fertilizer, 40kg of water fertilizer, 0.2kg of urea, 1.5kg of superphosphate, 0.4kg of potassium chloride and 1kg of compound fertilizer.

Management of Pepper Garden

1. Integer pruning. At present, the main pepper planting areas in China generally adopt the plastic shaping method of keeping 6 and 8 vines and cutting vines for 4 times. They are capped and put into production 2-3 years after planting, and the yield is higher. When small and medium-sized peppers grow new vines, the extra buds and branches should be cut off in time. Results when the top crown of pepper is too large and the branches are too dense, the old and weak branches and overlong branches must be cut off, and the outer long branches must be cut short to keep the crown balanced, consistent in size, ventilated and transparent, so as to make full use of light energy and reduce the occurrence of diseases.

2. Bind vines and pick flowers. Small and medium-sized pepper can bind the vine in time, so that the air root can be developed and firmly attached to the pillar, and when the new branch grows 3-4 nodes, tie the vine every 10-15 days. Use soft hemp skin to tie several main vines evenly to the pillars under the knots of the vines, so that each section of the main vines is close to the pillars as far as possible. In the direction of changing the column, the distance between the main vines is wider. It is convenient to replace the strut in the future. As a result, the pepper is bound with a plastic rope every 50 to 60 centimeters. Pepper can blossom and bear fruit all year round. Small and medium-sized pepper must pick flowers in order for the plant to grow normally. For two-year-old plants, when the crown width is more than 120 cm, the lower flower ear of the plant can be retained to let it bear fruit, but it is necessary to strengthen fertilization management to ensure that the normal growth of the plant can bear pepper. Spring flowers and summer flowers are generally retained in areas with low humidity in Hainan Province. The spikes of flowers produced in other seasons will be removed.

3. Pepper is afraid of stagnant water. In the rainy season, the drainage of the pepper garden must be done in time. Water should be irrigated in time in the dry season. It is best to use sprinkler irrigation. Furrow irrigation can also be used for border cultivation. The water level of furrow irrigation should not exceed 2pm 3 of the furrow, allowing it to infiltrate slowly. Generally, it is not suitable to use flooding irrigation to prevent water damage and disease spread.

Disease Control techniques of Pepper

There are 31 kinds of pepper diseases in China, among which the main diseases are pepper gangrenous disease, pepper bacterial leaf spot disease, pepper mosaic disease, pepper wilt, pepper root-knot nematode disease, secondary diseases are charcoal blast, root rot (red root rot, brown root rot, purple root rot) and so on.

1. Pepper blast

Pepper blast, also known as pepper base rot, fast decay and Blackwater disease, is the most important pepper disease in pepper growing areas in the world. It was first discovered in Sandraman, India in 1926, and later occurred in Indonesia, Malaysia, Cambodia, South America and some countries in Africa. Many pandemics occurred in Sarawak in Malaysia, resulting in a massive reduction in pepper production and the abandonment of seriously ill pepper gardens. Pepper blast was first prevalent in Hainan Province in 1960, which destroyed a large area of pepper orchards. The pepper area was not restored until 1969, but it was damaged by pepper blast from 1970 to 1972, and 78% of the pepper gardens were destroyed by the disease, causing serious losses to pepper production in China. The disease also occurred in pepper growing areas of Guangdong, Yunnan and Guangxi.

Symptoms: the root system, the base of the main vine, branches, leaves, flowers and fruits of the pepper plant were damaged. In the later stage, the outer skin blackens, decays and falls off, and a black liquid flows out of the decaying xylem (hence the name Blackwater disease). When the plant is infected and decayed at the base of the main vine, the whole leaf canopy becomes dull and dehydrated, and the leaves wither and fall off. If the weather is dry and hot, such diseased plants can suddenly wither within a few days, and finally turn black with the tender vines, and the dead vines can fall off one by one.

Epidemic rule: the epidemic of pepper blast is closely related to the soil type, topography, cultivation measures and rainfall in the pepper garden. In general, heavy soil viscosity, poor drainage or low-lying stagnant water occurs early and the disease is serious; on the contrary, the disease of sandy soil and good drainage is mild. Pepper gardens with concentrated pepper gardens, no shelterbelts, or sprained pepper heads when changing pillars, or weeding in sick gardens on rainy days, or pepper gardens where diseased plants are not removed and sprayed in time, are often prevalent in rainy years, especially in years with many typhoons. The disease began to occur on a small number of plants from March to April every year, and the epidemic period of blast was from August to November.

Prevention and control methods:

① site selection to build a garden: the new pepper garden should do a good job in land planning and farmland infrastructure. That is, to choose good water permeability and easy drainage of the land to grow pepper; pepper garden should not be too concentrated, each pepper garden area of 3 to 5 mu is appropriate, all around a good shelterbelt; garden to repair terraces or contour up the border, dig a good ring garden drainage ditch and small drainage ditch between rows to prevent bacteria from spreading through running water; low and flat areas to build earth mounds to grow pepper.

② uses disease-free seedlings: do not cut vines in the disease garden for cuttings, and should raise seedlings in disease-free plots.

③ strengthen tending management: weeding and fertilization should be carried out on sunny days, and pay attention to not injuring pepper head and root system; properly pruning branches close to the ground to reduce pepper head humidity and lower leaf disease; timely cultivation to make pepper head above the ground to prevent pepper head stagnant water and bacteria from infecting pepper head with running water; timely removal of withered branches and dead pepper head in the garden; unbiased application of nitrogen fertilizer Cover plants or cover with hay between rows of pepper orchards to reduce the spread of germs in running water and splash when it rains.

④ timely grasp the disease, do a good job of disease isolation: disease epidemic season, especially the typhoon rain, should send special personnel to inspect the disease in each garden, once found diseased plants should be timely application of medicine and prevention, and blockade and isolation of the disease area, forbidden to enter the disease area, the disease area used agricultural tools should not be brought to the disease-free garden. In field management, the disease-free garden should be first, and then the disease garden. Stop weeding, fertilizing and other agricultural activities in the disease garden when the soil is wet on rainy days, so as to reduce man-made transmission.

In the early stage of ⑤, 1% Bordeaux solution or 40% triethylphosphonate aluminum wettable powder should be sprayed on the central area (plant) and surrounding plants, and 1% copper sulfate solution or 1% Bordeaux solution should be used to spray the interrow soil in the disease area. Dig out the dead plants in time, transport them out of the garden and burn them, and the diseased soil should be dug and exposed to the sun or irrigated with 1% copper sulfate solution for disinfection.

2. Pepper bacterial leaf spot

Pepper bacterial leaf spot is one of the most important diseases in pepper growing area. The disease began to occur sporadically in some pepper gardens in Hainan Province in 1962, and the disease became more and more common and serious after 1966. In the early 1970s, it was prevalent in a large area in Wanning County, Hainan Province. The leaves of seriously diseased plants were bare, the branches dried up and lost their production capacity, until the whole plant died. In a seriously ill farm, the rate of diseased plants in 36 pepper gardens was 73.8%, the rate of dead plants was 35.5%, and the yield was reduced by 50%, causing serious economic losses to pepper production.

Symptoms: the disease occurred in pepper orchards of all ages. The disease occurred more frequently in large and medium pepper, and the leaves, branches, vines, inflorescences and ears were all damaged, which mainly damaged the mature leaves. The leaves produce watery spots at the beginning of the disease, and become purplish brown, round or polygonal spots after a few days. The plaque is enlarged, or multiple plaques converge into a large gray-white spot. There is a purple-brown dividing line at the junction of disease and health, and there is a yellow halo on the edge. Under moist conditions, bacteria overflow pus on the disease spot on the back of the leaf and turn into a gelatin-like membrane after drying. When the branches and vines were injured, the bacteria mostly invaded from the internodes or wounds, showing irregular purple spots, and discoloration of the ducts could be seen by cutting open the diseased branches. The purple-brown round spot appeared at the beginning of the ear infection, and then the whole ear turned black. Leaves, branches, flowers and fruits are easy to fall off when they are seriously ill, leaving only the bald main vine, which eventually dries up and dies. In addition to harming pepper, the pathogenic bacteria also infect plants of the family Piperaceae, such as withered leaves, molluscs, pseudomonas and so on.

Epidemic law: in the dry season, Rain Water is less, the relative humidity is low, and there are only sporadic diseased leaves in the field; Rain Water increases at the beginning of the rainy season, when the relative humidity is high and the dew is large, a large number of new disease spots appear. The disease spot expands rapidly, and generally there will be a peak of disease about one month after a heavy rainfall. If there is a short period of drought, the number of newly infected leaves decreases obviously and the disease decreases, which shows that there are multiple peak periods within one year. Rainfall and high temperature are the main conditions for the epidemic of the disease, especially the large amount of damage to pepper plants caused by wind and rain is conducive to the spread and invasion of pathogenic bacteria. The disease is easy to occur in pepper orchards with heavy soil viscosity, poor drainage, dense row spacing and high air humidity. The disease is serious in pepper orchards without shelterbelts, especially on the windward side.

Prevention and control methods:

① do a good job of pepper garden planning and capital construction pepper garden should not be over-concentrated, an area of 3 to 5 mu is appropriate, planted shelterbelts around, dig drainage ditches inside and outside the pepper garden.

Planting disease-free seedlings in ②, it is strictly forbidden to introduce seedlings from disease areas and cultivate and plant disease-free pepper seedlings.

③ regular disease check, timely elimination of the central diseased plants before the arrival of the rainy season, all the diseased leaves infected with bacterial leaf spot in the garden should be removed and burned centrally. After rain, the diseased leaves should be checked in time, the diseased plants should be removed in time, and the diseased plants and their adjacent plants should be sprayed with 1% Bordeaux solution or 40% triethylphosphonate aluminum (ethylphosphonate) wettable powder 100x, and the ground of the diseased plants should be disinfected at the same time and sprayed several times in succession. If there are too many diseased leaves of seriously diseased plants and it is difficult to remove them manually, 1% copper sulfate solution can be sprayed to promote the shedding of the whole plant leaves, and then fertilizer and proper shading can be applied to restore growth in the period. Some seriously diseased plants with severely fallen leaves and bare top branches can also cut off all the upper branches and leave 1 stick 2 plants, and then apply more fertilizer and strengthen the tending tube. In the epidemic period, Bordeaux solution or ethyl phosphate aluminum solution can be sprayed regularly, once every 10-14 days, several times in succession.

3. Pepper wilt

Pepper wilt, also known as chronic wilt, chronic decline and chlorosis, is an important disease second only to pepper blast. In the late 1920s and early 1930s, a serious yellowing (Fusarium wilt) disease occurred in Bangka Island, Indonesia, resulting in the loss of 22 million pepper plants, with a loss rate of 90%. India lost 10% of its pepper plants to Fusarium wilt, Guesina lost 30%, and caused serious losses in Malaysia and Brunei. Pepper wilt caused by Fusarium oxysporum is more serious than pepper blast in Brazil and is the first major disease in pepper production in Brazil. In the past ten years, pepper wilt has also occurred successively in Wenchang, Qionghai, Wanning, Danzhou, Qiongzhong, Baisha, Ledong and some pepper gardens in Zhanjiang, Guangdong Province, and most of them occurred in fruiting pepper gardens. its distribution area is more extensive than pepper blast, and the loss of pepper plants caused by it is generally up to 5% and 15%, and has a trend of increasing year by year.

Symptoms: the general manifestations of infected plants are leaf chlorosis, yellowing, lack of growth, dwarfing of the plant, and wilting and decline of the whole plant in severe cases. In the aboveground part of the diseased plant, at first part of the leaves lost their luster and gradually turned yellow, and then most of the leaves turned yellow; some of the yellow leaves wilted, drooped, fell off, the twigs withered, and the flowers dried up; finally, the whole plant wilted and died. In the underground part of the diseased plant, first, the small roots change color and rot, or there are too many near the surface and it is difficult to remove them manually, 1% copper sulfate solution can be sprayed to promote the shedding of the leaves of the whole plant, and then the base of the stem changes color slightly, and the vascular bundle begins to turn brown; then the lateral root blackens and necrosis; the stem base and main root of the seriously diseased plant rot and die, and pink mildew grows in the stem base when it is wet. The difference between pepper Fusarium wilt and pepper blast is that although some pepper blast plants also show symptoms of yellow leaves and wilting, the whole plant dies quickly. Pepper wilt often lasts from half a year to several years from the yellowing and wilting of some leaves to the death of the whole plant. Some Fusarium wilt plants showed that half of the aboveground parts died, while the other half were still alive, showing slow decline symptoms. Most of the pepper blast plants occurred on the main vines 20 cm above and below the ground, and the roots near the main vines infected underground were infected, blackened, rotted, and gradually expanded to the roots, while the lower roots had not been damaged, while the first infectious disease of pepper Fusarium wilt was small roots, and then gradually spread upward.

Epidemic law: climate and soil factors will affect the occurrence of the disease. The high temperature, dry and wet climate is beneficial to the infection and expansion of the disease. The fields with PH below 6, sandy soil or sandy loam, low fertility, poor drainage, loose soil structure, poor permeability of subsoil and high number of nematodes are all beneficial to the occurrence of the disease.

Prevention and control methods:

① should pay attention to the selection of planting land and do a good job in the drainage and irrigation system of pepper garden to prevent both soil waterlogging and soil drought.

② was planted with disease-free seedlings.

③ fertilizes reasonably, applies sufficient base fertilizer, increases organic fertilizer, and does not apply chemical fertilizer. When planting, the base fertilizer, especially the burning soil, should not come into contact with the root system; when topdressing, use rotten organic fertilizer to avoid fertilizer damage.

In pepper orchards with a large number of ④ nematodes, nematodes should be used to reduce the root damage of nematodes and the incidence of Fusarium wilt.

⑤ was sprayed and irrigated with 250-fold solution of "carbendazim" on the newly diagnosed plants of Fusarium wilt, once every 7 times every 10 days, for 3 times. Or sprinkle with 40% carbendazim and thiram 1 / 1 / 1 / 1 / 500-fold solution.

4. Pepper root rot

Symptoms: the aboveground parts of the infected plants showed growth stagnation, the leaves lost green, yellow wilt, shedding, and the whole plant died in severe cases. There are fungal cord and bacterial membrane on the surface of the root (underground vine and root) of the diseased plant. It can be divided into red root rot, brown root rot and purple root rot according to the color and morphological characteristics of bacterial cord and bacterial membrane.

Red root rot: the infected root is covered with a layer of sediment on the surface. After washing the root with water and removing the sediment, you can see that the root surface has a layer of red to jujube bacterial membrane.

Brown root rot: the surface of the diseased root is covered with sand, uneven and not easy to wash, during which there are rust-colored velvet mycelium and dark brown thin and brittle bacterial membrane, cut off the skin, and there are honeycomb brown lines in the xylem.

Purple root rot: at the base of the main vine, it is common to have a purple spongy bacterial membrane (fruiting body) close to each other. The diseased root surface does not stick to sediment, but is covered by dense dark purple fungal cords.

Prevention and control methods:

When reclaiming pepper fields, ① should thoroughly remove the infected tree heads and roots.

② is not suitable to use susceptible tree species (such as Casuarina equisetifolia, Acacia, thick bark tree, Phoenix wood, etc.) as pepper pillar or shelterbelt tree species. If you use wood pillars, you should peel off the bark and carbonize the buried parts with fire, or brush them with coal tar, preferably with stone columns or reinforced cement columns. The used old pillars should be treated before use.

Treatment of ③ diseased plants. Carefully dig up the soil around the head of the diseased pepper plant, scrape off the diseased part with a knife, expose it to the sun for 3 days or apply fungicides to fill in the new topsoil. The branches and leaves of the aboveground parts should be trimmed properly after scraping the seriously diseased trees.

Pest Control techniques of Pepper

In foreign pepper planting areas, there are important pests that harm pepper fruits, leaves, stem nodes and roots, such as pepper fruit weevil and pepper stem weevil, but they have not been found on pepper in China. At present, the common pepper pests in China are pink scale, blind bug, aphid and diamondback moth, which cause certain losses to pepper production.

1. Long-tailed pink scale

The insect is harmful to pepper leaves and fresh shoots. There are lasting green spots on the injured leaves when they grow up. The young fruits stop growing and finally fall off after being killed.

Control methods: ① sprays 0.1% muri 0.3% dimethoate solution; ② protects and utilizes gall mosquitoes, floating insects and other natural enemies.

2. Orange gland pink scale and gluteal pink scale

These two kinds of pink scale damage the tender shoots and ears of pepper.

Control method: ① removes the wild parasitic paulownia in and around the pepper garden without paulownia as a pillar; ② sprays 40% dimethoate 500 times.

3. Root pink scale

The insect harms the roots of pepper, and its nymphs and female adults live in the roots of pepper. the plants of pepper will decline if they are damaged, resulting in reduced yield, and if they are heavy, the whole plant will die.

Control method: there is a certain control effect by burying p-dichlorobenzene in the soil 5 cm away from the soil surface beside the root of the plant.

4. Citrus aphid

Orange aphid, also known as tea aphid, harms not only pepper, but also tea, coffee, cocoa, cashew nuts, bananas, pineapples and other crops. The adults and nymphs feed on the tender shoots, tender leaves and fruit juice of pepper, resulting in leaf curling, wrinkling, shoot death and soot disease.

Control methods: ① citrus bifurcate aphid has many important natural enemies, which should be well protected and utilized. Before or at the beginning of the occurrence of a large number of ② in winter and spring, spraying 40% nicotine sulfate 800ml 1000-fold solution and adding 0.3% soap can increase the control effect. During the occurrence of aphids, 2.5% Kung Fu EC 5000 / w 7000 times, 24% methomyl (Wanling) 1000 / 2000 times, or 40% dimethoate EC 1000 times were sprayed.

Physiological Diseases of Pepper

The physiological diseases of pepper include physiological abnormalities such as deficiency of various nutrient elements, fertilizer damage, water damage and so on. Because the manifestations of these physiological diseases are often confused with the symptoms of parasitic diseases, thus affecting the correct diagnosis of the etiology of these diseases and affecting the adoption of targeted prevention and control measures, so as to affect the effect of prevention and treatment, therefore, it is necessary to understand and master the different manifestations of these physiological diseases.

1. Nitrogen deficiency: lack of nitrogen during shoot shooting, yellowish green leaf color, small leaves, short shoots, short flower ears and low fertility rate. The leaves are nitrogen deficient after maturity, the leaves fade evenly, often fall off early, and the fruit becomes smaller and precocious. However, when the nitrogen nutrition is excessive, the branches grow excessively, the leaves are hypertrophic, the flower ear is dysplastic, the number of flowers is small, and sometimes the physiological fruit drop is serious.

2. Phosphorus deficiency: green to dark green of mature leaves, necrosis of leaf tip and edge, poor growth of root system and abnormal development of flower ear.

3. Potassium deficiency: the tissue of the tip and edge of the older leaf is necrotic, the texture becomes brittle, and the withered top will occur. However, excessive potassium often leads to magnesium deficiency in plants.

4. Magnesium deficiency: the leaf margin and tip of the older leaves are light yellow, the leaf veins turn yellow, the main veins remain green, and then there are necrotic spots between the small veins, and the necrotic spots expand and converge into necrotic plaques. The leaves fall off. The leaves of mg-deficient plants were seriously deciduous, and there were only a small number of immature green-deficient leaves at the top of branches, the fruit became smaller, fruit fell, and even branches withered and disjointed. High-yield pepper orchard is easy to lack magnesium, which can be corrected by applying calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer or magnesium sulfate.

5. Calcium deficiency: the edge of the tender leaves is chlorotic, on which there are many small brown necrotic spots, the necrotic spots are enlarged, and there is a yellow halo around each spot. There is a brown necrotic area between the main veins on the back of the leaf, and the leaf falls off prematurely. Sometimes the tip of the vine withered back.

6. Manganese deficiency: chlorosis between the veins of young leaves, and then the chlorosis area changes from light yellow to brown yellow, and the leaves fall off.

7. Sulfur deficiency: the tender leaves are light green to silvery white, then turn to uniform yellow, there are a large number of necrotic spots on them, the back leaf tip forms a black bad area, the leaves fall off before maturity, the top of the vine withered, and the plant growth is dwarfed.

8. Iron deficiency: chlorosis between veins of 3 young leaves at the top 2, and gradually extended to the lower leaves. The fine leaflet veins fade, but there are still green bands along the main vein. The leaves fall off before maturity, and the plant grows dwarf.

9. Copper deficiency: chlorosis between the veins of the leaves, then extended to the whole leaf including the veins. Dark brown necrotic spots were formed on the leaf tip and leaf edge, which were rolled down and defoliated, and the plant growth was blocked.

 
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