Three benefits of pruning pine bonsai

Flower friends who like bonsai will not miss the pine bonsai, in the pine bonsai maintenance process, pruning is also very necessary. The plasticity of pine bonsai is also strong, and there are three advantages to pruning pine bonsai.

Pine bonsai

First, it is conducive to strengthening technical management:

1, it is easy to observe the growth and distribution of pine buds; 2, it is easy to bind and bend pine buds; 3, it is easy to deal with pine buds, mainly selecting buds, picking buds, cutting buds and so on.

Second, it is conducive to promoting balanced growth:

1, easy to ventilation; 2, easy to daylighting; 3, easy to accept rain and dew; 4, forcing buds to promote the balanced development of pine buds. After the new buds come out and grow for a period of time, the old needle that has been cut will gradually turn yellow and fall off naturally.

Third, it is helpful to improve the grade of tree lattice:

The modeling of pine can not be completed at once, it needs to be completed many times. This has laid the foundation for future re-creation.

Treatment of wound during pruning of pine bonsai

Treatment of wound during pruning of pine bonsai

Wound treatment, pruning branches, most of the time will be more appropriate at the end of autumn. First cut to about 1cm from the base, the strong tree does not need special treatment, the pine resin will dry naturally to protect the wound, the weaker tree had better apply some healing agent to avoid the loss of too much sap, affecting the tree potential (the tree is too weak to do too much pruning). (my most earthy practice is to put rotten mud on the wound, check a few days later, and if turpentine flows out, wipe it again, this time mix the mud with the turpentine, the effect will be better.) after the branches dried up (about 1 ~ 2 years), then cut off the remaining part from the base, at this time it is best to use fork pruning, the trunk will be better. Fork shears have an arc-shaped design in the incision, and smaller branches can cut out slightly concave wounds, which can help the wound heal. For larger branches, use a sharp blade (if you use an art knife, you must wear cotton gloves on both hands, and at the same time, do not cut too thick, lest the blade will break and cut yourself). Repair the dried wood, flatten the wound, and then apply the healing agent to protect the wound (regardless of the strength of the tree, the larger wound needs to apply healing agent to avoid the discharge of too much sap and affect the tree). Speed up healing The wound is also smooth and beautiful. The time to deal with the wound is the season of rapid sap flow and exuberant growth (April and May). Make use of the physiological conditions of plants at this time to proliferate healing tissue as soon as possible. Quote: potted Shili silk carving-Zheng Chenggong. After studying the physiological phenomena of plant healing and the different healing conditions of different tree species for many years, it is concluded that the speed of tissue healing depends on the following four conditions: 1. The strength of the sap flow. two。 The angle of sap transport. 3. The pros and cons of the wound's initial treatment. 4. The degree of protection of the wound. One of the most easily overlooked is the angle of sap transport. The experiment shows that the slowest healing of a circular incision is the top and bottom, as shown in figure 1 (below). The reason is that the sap is transported at the shortest distance, and the two ends of the circle happen to be dead corners, so these two points are the slowest places to heal, so the two ends of the circular incision are carved into the shape of eyes without dead corners, as shown in figure 2 (below). In this way, it can conform to the principle of sap transportation, form a barrier-free space, make the sap flow smoothly, accelerate the healing speed, and make the scar smooth and beautiful. Note: in the experimental stage, often because the wound has to be operated on longer, intuitively mistakenly thinking that the wound is bigger, the healing time will be longer, or even for fear of leaving a bigger scar, so they are afraid to do it for a long time. On the contrary, the experimental results show that this method is effective, which can not only shorten the healing time, but also make the wound smooth and natural. When the viewer is appreciating the work, there are often large branches and large incisions, according to the general growth state of the adult tree, there are more gathered in the middle and lower part of the dry body, but here is generally less covered by leaves, so it is easy to become the viewer's visual cohesion here (defect).

The making method of pine bonsai common types of pine bonsai

There are nearly 80 species of pine trees in the world. The trees are majestic and vigorous, tall and long-lived, and have important ornamental value. Although most of them are tall trees, there are also a few of them are shrub-like, such as Yanpong and site pine. People often make small pine trees into bonsai for people to enjoy. Let's take a look at the process of making pine bonsai.

The process of making pine bonsai

1. Material selection: the production of pine bonsai is generally based on Luohan pine, and the bonsai of Luohan pine is usually based on artificial propagation, which can be propagated by sowing or cutting. You can also choose wild Pinus elliottii in the mountains, which can be excavated by those born in stone crevices with short plants, quaint branches and beautiful posture. They can be cultivated in the open field for 1 ~ 2 years, and then transplanted into the basin for processing and modeling.

2, selected basin: pine bonsai posture is ancient and elegant, often use purple sand pottery basin or glazed pottery basin, the shape of the basin depends on the tree shape, cliff type with high-depth thousand-cylinder basin, oblique dry type, horizontal dry type with medium-deep long square basin or oval basin, root-lifting type, stone-attached type with shallow bowl.

3, use soil: pine bonsai should use rich, moist, loose, well-drained and slightly acidic sandy loam, and fill a layer of coarse sand at the bottom of the basin to facilitate water permeability.

4. Planting: it is better to transplant pine bonsai in the pot before sprouting in spring, and the big seedlings should take the soil, cut off the withered roots and overgrown roots, stretch the fibrous roots in the basin soil, and closely connect the soil with the roots, which is beneficial to growth and survival.

5, modeling: the modeling of pine bonsai can not be careless, the upper basin shape is mainly climbing, properly combined with pruning, climbing should be carried out in the dormant period, with brown silk tie, so that the brown is not exposed, the trunk cricket, the branches are bent, and the posture is natural. The branchlets and leaves are pruned into layers like flakes or hemispheres, with different layers.

Common types of pine bonsai

1. Jungle style: the jungle bonsai is a miniature version of the forest, and the jungle bonsai is a hierarchical bonsai formed by the combination of multiple trees.

2. Oblique dry type: the trunk of the oblique dry bonsai is tilted to one side, some trunks are slightly bent, and the branches protrude out of the basin, the whole shape will appear steeper and stable. oblique dry bonsai can reflect the complete artistic effect of the balance of tree trend and dynamic and static changes.

3. Horizontal dry type: the pile head of horizontal dry bonsai can be divided into horizontal bonsai, supine bonsai and semi-horizontal bonsai. The pile head of the horizontal bonsai lies there horizontally, and the top of the treetop cannot exceed the height of the trunk itself. The upper 1/5 of the pile head of the supine bonsai is oblique or upright, and the lower 4/5 is lying flat or slightly tilted upward. The pile head of a semi-horizontal bonsai the lower part of its stem is lying horizontally or tilted upward.

4. Cliff type: the overhanging rock type bonsai can be divided into two types: the large overhanging rock type bonsai and the tree trunk exceeding the potted bottom type bonsai. The semi-overhanging rock type bonsai is also called small land type bonsai. The trunk of the bonsai extends out of the basin, and the trunk droops but cannot exceed the bottom of the basin.

5. Root-lifting bonsai: the root-style bonsai is to expose the roots to the outside of the soil, the roots are like a dragon Panqu, or like eagle claws hanging high, the root-style bonsai reveals a sense of elegance.

6. Split type: the trunk of the split bonsai will be peeled off after decades or even hundreds of years of natural forces, as long as a part of the tree's xylem and epidermis are attached to it, some parts of the bark and branches are not interrupted, and the branches can grow new branches and leaves, with an ancient artistic conception.

7. Epiphytic type: the trunk of the epiphytic bonsai stump shows the state of dead wood, leaving only part of the xylem and cortex to support it.