High-yield planting techniques of raspberry

Raspberry, also known as raspberry, mountain throwing seed, milk bubble, scattered seedling bubble, March bubble, April bubble, raspberry and so on, are woody plants of the raspberry genus of Rosaceae. The fruit is sour and sweet in Europe and the United States, and it is widely distributed but little known in China. Only a small amount of raspberry is cultivated in Northeast China, and it is relatively rare on the market. Let's take a look at the high-yield planting techniques of raspberry.

Growth habits of raspberry

1. Environment: raspberries are usually born in mountain areas, stream sides, hillside thickets, forest sides and rocky piles, grow luxuriantly on barren slopes or after burning mountains, grow luxuriantly under oil tree and camellia oleifera forests, like warm and humid, and require scattered light with good light, and are not strict with soil requirements and strong adaptability. but it is better to use micro-acid soil with fertile soil, strong water and fertility conservation and good drainage to neutral sandy soil, red soil, purple soil and so on.

2. Results: raspberry fruit is early, easy to enter the full fruit period, generally see fruit two years after planting, high yield in 3 years, the highest yield is in 4 to 5 years, and the full fruit period can be as long as 15 years. The root system is shallow, not tolerant to drought, and the lack of water will inhibit the growth and fruiting. The flowering period is from April to May and the fruiting period is from June to July. Excessive soil water evaporation and insufficient water will affect the yield.

Propagation methods of raspberry

1. Root tiller: the mother plant of raspberry should keep the soil moist, loose and nutritious, select well-developed root tillers, keep the spacing between 10 cm and 15 cm, dig roots and tillers after autumn, dig deep, retain more side branches, can be planted as soon as they are dug, or fake planting first after digging, and the garden will be established in the spring of the following year.

2. Cutting: when cutting raspberry, dig out the lateral root with a thickness of about 1 cm, select the root with bud, cut it into a root of about 10 cm, cut it in the middle of March, dig a trench with a depth of 10 cm, insert the root obliquely into the border bed, expose 1/4 outside the soil, and bury it flat.

3. Transplant: dig wild plants from the mountain woodland from November to March every year, cut off the basal branches, keep them 20 cm long, and be careful not to damage the dormant buds at the base. Then it was transplanted into a flat field with a distance of 25 cm and 2700 plants per mu. After planting, cover the soil firmly, pour fixed root water, cover straw hay and so on.

Cultivation techniques of raspberry

1. Garden establishment: East China raspberries can be planted in spring or autumn, generally in mid-late November or mid-late March. Choose plots with shelter from the wind and sun, loose soil, high content of organic matter, moist soil and not suitable for stagnant water to build a garden. 2000 kg / mu of farm manure should be applied before the garden is built. The planting method is strip method, row spacing is 2 meters, plant spacing is 0.4-0.8 meters, planting hole size is 30 × 30 × 30 cm, pay attention to protect basal buds from damage when planting seedlings.

2. Fertilizer and water: apply sufficient base fertilizer and farm manure 3kg per plant before transplanting. During the growth period, combined with loosening soil and weeding, topdressing was applied 2 to 3 times a year, mainly nitrogen fertilizer, with appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Apply seedling fertilizer in March, flower fertilizer in April and overwintering fertilizer in November. 15002000 kg of human feces and urine per mu. Pay attention to watering during drought in summer and autumn

3. Scaffolding: raspberry branches are soft, often drooping to the ground, or easy to lodge in case of wind, affecting yield and quality. From April to May, when the lateral branch occurs, the terminal bud is removed to promote the growth of the lateral branch, at the same time, the heart of the lateral branch is removed to promote the secondary lateral branch, and the branch is leafy, which can increase the fruiting mother branch of the following year and increase the yield. Stand pillars next to each plant during the fruiting period to prevent lodging.

4. Pruning: the dry part of the top of the two-year branch should be cut off in time in spring to make the remaining branches give off strong fruiting branches. Thinning the base is too dense and there are diseases and insect pests, leaving 7-8 biennial branches per plant, keeping a reasonable density, conducive to ventilation and light, and ensuring high and stable yield. After fruit picking, the biennial branches were cut off, and the tillers and overdense basal branches were removed to control the total number of branches in the garden.

5. Harvest: the harvest time of raspberry is from mid-May to early June, when the fruit is fully developed and green, and has not yet turned red. Harvest is carried out in batches, and after harvest, stems, leaves, receptacles and other impurities are removed. Then blanch it in boiling water for 2 minutes and then remove it, then spread it out or dry it. The finished product with intact grain, solid yellow-green color, sour taste and no pedicel leaf chips is preferred.

Pest control of raspberry

1. Stem rot

Stem rot is a serious disease that harms the basal branches of raspberry trees. Generally occurs on the new shoot, first from the new tip to the sunny side from the ground closer to a dark gray like scalded spot, about 1.5-5.5 cm long, 0.6-1.2 cm wide. The disease spot expands rapidly around, the disease part gradually turns brown, many small black spots of different sizes appear on the disease spot surface, the xylem turns brown and necrotic, with the expansion of the disease part, the leaves and petioles turn yellow and wither, and the whole plant dies in severe cases.

[prevention and treatment] sweep the garden in autumn, cut off the diseased branches and burn them centrally, so as to eliminate the pathogen. It can be sprayed and controlled from May to August. In the early stages of the disease in mid-May and July, the susceptible varieties were sprayed with 500 times of methyl topiramate or 40% of ethyl aluminum 500 times or thiram 500 times, respectively.

2. Powdery mildew

The second disease of raspberries is called powdery mildew. The diseased leaves of raspberry are covered with a layer of white powder, which causes the leaves to distort or curl. Sometimes the leaves do not show white powder, but show water-immersed spots. In severe cases, the growth of new shoots is dwarfed, and the fruit is sometimes infected.