Grafting technique of plum tree

The propagation methods of plum trees include grafting, cutting and division, etc., and grafting propagation is usually used in actual production, which is beneficial to improve the planting efficiency of plum trees. in the grafting operation, the grafting time, rootstock selection and grafting varieties are different according to the actual situation, so attention must be paid to the production. Let's take a look at the grafting technology of plum trees.

The growing environment of plum trees

Plum trees have strong adaptability to climate, as long as the soil is deep and has certain fertility, no matter what kind of soil can be planted, high requirements for air and soil moisture, extremely intolerant of stagnant water, poor drainage of orchards, often resulting in rotten roots, poor growth or prone to various diseases, it is appropriate to choose places with loose soil, good soil permeability and drainage, deep soil layer and low groundwater level to build a garden.

Grafting time of plum trees

It is appropriate for plum trees to be grafted around July. 7-10 days before grafting, the peripheral branches with strong growth should be selected to promote the early maturity of the scion. In addition to selecting full buds during grafting, the grafting site should be 5-8 cm on the ground, which is beneficial to the early germination of grafted buds.

Variety selection of plum trees

1. Rootstock selection: dwarfing rootstocks are selected, which have strong affinity with grafted varieties, and varieties with bright fruit color, high yield and weak growth potential should be selected.

2. Grafted varieties: the varieties of plums are very rich, and the traditional fine varieties in China are "Madame Plum, Jiaqing Plum, Carrier Plum, Red fragrant Plum, Yuhuang Plum, Mi Plum, May Plum" and so on. At present, the domestic and introduced foreign plum varieties popularized and applied in production are mainly Dashi Zaosheng, Japanese King Li, Misi Li, Rose Queen, Black Jewel, American Dali, Changle Niu Xin Li, Pioneer Li and so on.

Grafting techniques of plum trees

1. Rootstock treatment: wild peaches, plums, cherries and other stumps can be cut or sawed as rootstocks at 6 cm from the ground (also according to the shape of the tree).

2. Scion treatment: fully developed 1-year-old semi-lignified branches with full buds and no insect pests were selected as panicles, with a length of about 7 cm, leaving 5-7 buds as scions, and the collected scions were wrapped in wet cloth.

3. Mode selection: it is generally carried out before the rootstock buds germinate or when the buds begin to germinate without leaf expansion, and the common splitting method is mainly suitable for thicker rootstocks. This method is easy to master, the interface heals quickly and firmly, and the survival rate is high.

4. Grafting method: the rootstock was watered once the day before grafting, and then the cutting surface of the rootstock was flattened with a knife, then a split about 3 cm long was cut with a grafting knife or blade, and the lower end of the picked scion was also cut into a wedge-shaped surface slightly thicker on one side and about 3 cm in length on the other side, leaving only 2 buds. After that, sow the thicker edge of the scion outward and thin into the split, form a layer to align, and wrap it tightly with a wide plastic strip. The upper end of the scion is bound with plastic film to prevent moisture evaporation and insect pests. Such as dry bath, windy weather, you must use a transparent plastic bag, and then put a small cotton ball that absorbs enough water, cover the part above the interface and tie the mouth of the bag tightly.

5. After management: generally, shearing anvil germinates earlier than folding anvil. But in summer, the shearing anvil must be cut 3-5 cm away from the grafting bud, leaving a few leaves on the rootstock, and then cut the rootstock 1 cm on the grafted bud after germination. After cutting the rootstock, you should wipe the buds in time, erase all the buds on the rootstock, leaving only the grafting buds. Seedlings should be watered at the later stage. At the end of September, when the grafted buds grew to 70-100 cm, all the grafted buds were coring, and stopped watering to promote the seedlings to grow thicker and mature, so as to improve the overwintering ability of the seedlings.