Planting technology of durian

Durian is one of the famous tropical fruits, is a fruit of great economic value. Some countries in Southeast Asia grow more, among which Thailand is the most, durian is the first in Thailand's fresh fruit exports, and durian exports reached US $10 million in 1987. There are a few durian trees in Hainan, China, and some durian varieties have been introduced from abroad. With the opening to the outside world, foreign durian has entered the Chinese market and is favored. Due to the lack of understanding of durian charm, China does not attach great importance to durian cultivation, and there is little research on durian. Durian can be planted in frost-free areas where the average daily temperature is above 22℃, and can be developed in some areas of Hainan Province and Yunnan Province in China.

Durian can only grow and bear fruit in a climate with high temperature all year round. Even in equatorial regions, the altitude above 600m cannot be planted or bear fruit due to the drop in temperature. The marketing season is from September to December every year, and there are also production in other months.

For a long time, people often use seeds to reproduce durian, but durian genetic variability is large, if a durian ten stones, each stone may grow ten different quality fruits, and good and bad mixed, inferior durian can breed very excellent varieties. Similarly, good durian can also breed inferior varieties, and some durians do not bear fruit for life. In order to cultivate fine varieties, ensure pure varieties, early bearing and high yield, people now adopt grafting propagation to cultivate durian more and more. The six propagation methods of durian (except seed propagation) are briefly described as follows:

1. Bud grafting

Almost all dicotyledonous woody plants can bud except monocotyledonous and some plants with irregular cambium. The rootstock is as big as a pencil, and the stem of the rootstock is 10cm away from the soil. Cut two slits from top to bottom, 0.7cm wide and 3~4cm long. Cut one knife at the top of the two slits, pull up the skin, and the length is consistent with the bud. The lower end of the incision leaves a little skin that has been pulled open to support the bud. The process of obtaining bud pieces is the same as that of cutting and pulling with anvil water. After embedding, it is tied up with 1cm wide plastic film belt. It is best not to contact rain for two days.

Note that other fruit bud grafting method can completely wrap the bud, except durian, because the bud on the bud is easy to fall off. We'll know in two weeks if it's alive. After survival, cut off about 30cm from the bud at the top of rootstock to stimulate the rapid growth of bud eyes. In the future, the rootstock will produce a lot of rootstocks. These rootstocks cannot be completely removed. One or two rootstocks must be turned down to help the buds absorb nutrients. However, the rootstocks left should not be allowed to grow excessively. They should be pruned frequently to avoid hindering the growth of the buds.

2. Splitting

Seedlings before budding and leafing or before xylem are best used as rootstock. Cut the rootstock 6~7cm away from the rootstock, cut the middle of the flat anvil straight down for about 1 cm to form a V shape; obtain the branch tip with the diameter equivalent to the anvil pile and two or three buds as scion, about 8~10cm long, cut off 3/4 of the leaves, cut the lower end of the scion into wedge shape, insert it into the cutting seam of the anvil pile, and fasten it with film tape. After that, cover the whole seedling with a transparent plastic bag to prevent the scion water from evaporating. After about two or three weeks in a cool place, if the scion leaves do not fall off, it will be successful.

3, close to

Only a small number of seedlings are suitable for reproduction. Seedlings planted in plastic bags can be used as rootstocks at about six or seven months old. The scions concerned should have shoots equal in size to the rootstocks. Ideally, they should be erect.

4. Cutting

The shoots used are about 15cm long and about the size of chopsticks. They should have several leaves and buds. Two-thirds of each leaf should be cut off to prevent evaporation. Cut the downward end of the branch or fork it 1 cm from bottom to top, coat it with a layer of hormone rooting agent, insert it into a damp sand cup, place it in a greenhouse with weak light, water it, after seven or eight weeks, if the leaves do not fall off and the young roots grow, they can be transplanted into plastic bags.

5. Branch tip ventral connection

Rootstock size can be, as long as it has grown into wood, cortex easy to peel, shoot height optional, incision process and bud similar. Select 10cm long unopened leaves, unformed strong shoots as scions, scion inclined length is slightly shorter than the rootstock cut, inserted into the rootstock cut, tied with plastic tape, then wrapped tightly with transparent plastic paper, placed in the shade. Cut the adhesive tape after two weeks, but do not remove the tape until the branches grow.

6. Aerial layering

There is no seasonality in air layering. Choose a branch larger than a pencil, and circumscribe it at about 40cm from the tail end to about 3 cm in length. After peeling, cut off the cambium at the incision with the back of the knife, otherwise the incision cortex will recover without rooting. Cover the incision with a damp lump of dirt the size of a duck egg. Wrap three layers with plastic paper, bind both ends tightly, and cut off the mother after about three months of new root growth. Cut the plastic paper and plant in black plastic bags. Place in a cool place. Transplant after about one or two months. Due to the low survival rate, durian reproduction is rarely used.