Key Points for Conservation of Chinese Elm Bonsai

Hammer elm, also known as small leaf elm, belongs to deciduous trees, up to 25 meters high. The crown of elm is generally round, and its bark is gray or brown. When it comes to the dry season in winter, the leaves will become yellow or red. The leaves will not begin to fall off until the new leaves begin to grow in the following spring. The flowering and fruiting period of Ulmus pumila is usually between August and October.

Hammer elm bonsai

In the cultivation of elm, the maintenance work of elm is mainly shown in the need to keep it moist. In the process of pot culture, the soil is less, so the water is easy to dry, so the following two methods are often chosen for moisturizing.

First, a transparent plastic film is used to wrap the tree village to form a closed space, but it is worth noting that this method requires frequent watering to maintain the humidity of the elm.

Second, the bonsai is placed on the ground with soil, so that the water in the flowerpot can be fully maintained, and at the same time it can absorb part of the water in the soil, so that the elm can maintain a good humidity. If you are feeding in a heated winter, you should pay attention to more watering.

A brief discussion on the production and maintenance methods of bonsai of nut elm

Hammer elm is a common variety in bonsai modeling, and it is also a relatively good breed. Many flower friends buy nut elm bonsai, but they do not know how to raise nut elm bonsai. Although nut elm bonsai is easy to raise, the survival rate of its downhill pile is not high. Especially in the balcony maintenance, some flower friends according to their own years of experience, summed up some key points of conservation nut elm bonsai, hoping to be helpful to flower friends.

1. The selection of piles should be strict, and the blanks must be fresh, decayed, rootless, select as much as possible, and do not pursue more, so as to ensure that all the selected billets can survive.

2. The pre-planting treatment of Ulmus pumila is very important, especially to take good care of its wound and cross-section, because it is easy to run a large amount of pulp in the presence of water. Therefore, after the pile blank is trimmed, the section and its wound must be trimmed and smooth, and the large section had better be trimmed into a 45-degree slope of leather and xylem. This can not only prevent bacterial infection, but also help the wound heal as soon as possible and take root as soon as possible.

3. After the wound has been treated, it can not be put on the basin immediately. It should be placed in the shade to dry for a few hours, so that the wound can naturally collect water and form a protective film, which can greatly reduce the occurrence of juice flow after the pile billet is put on the basin. The biggest disadvantage of all elm varieties is that it is easy to flow juice and run pulp. If the hammer elm pile is broken before and after planting, it is difficult to overcome this disadvantage effectively, then it is difficult to ensure the survival of the pile.

4. Some hammer-elm piles have many holes in the upper face, and many holes are filled with deciduous soil and weeds, which must be thoroughly removed. The reason is that these sundries more or less contain ant colonies or insect eggs, if they are not cleaned up before potting, the weather gets warmer in the future, the activity of ant colonies and insect eggs in the cave increases, reproduction increases, it is difficult to cure, and the harm is endless. In the end, the pile may be eaten and killed.

Hammer elm likes to be dry and afraid of dampness, so it should be planted in earthen pots. The soil had better be made of yellow sand, pine needle soil and loess in the proportion of 4:3:3. This kind of soil is both breathable and water-retaining, and does not accumulate water. Several layers of tiles are padded to the bottom of the basin, and then a layer of coarse sand is padded. After getting good soil, shake a few times, and then compaction down along the edge of the basin to prevent the formation of cavities under the pile root, affecting the hairy root. After pouring the fixed root water thoroughly, cover it with a plastic bag and put it in a relatively fixed place. Do not move it often, so as not to touch the pile root and break the root bud. Try to control watering, spray more water on the branches, and the basin soil had better be kept dry.

Do not rush to fertilize after the survival of the new pile, which is an important reason for the failure of many people to raise billet, which should be applied again after autumn.

Summary: the above is the introduction of the production and maintenance methods of bonsai. I hope you can exchange more experience in bonsai production.

How to raise the bonsai of hammer elm

Many flower friends buy nut elm bonsai, but do not know how to raise nut elm bonsai, although nut elm bonsai is easy to raise, but the survival rate of its downhill pile is not high, especially in balcony maintenance, some flower friends according to their own years of experience, summed up some key points of conservation of nut elm bonsai, hoping to help flower friends.

1. The selection of piles should be strict, and the blanks must be fresh, decayed, rootless, select as much as possible, and do not pursue more, so as to ensure that all the selected billets can survive.

2. The pre-planting treatment of Ulmus pumila is very important, especially to take good care of its wound and cross-section, because it is easy to run a large amount of pulp in the presence of water. Therefore, after the pile blank is trimmed, the section and its wound must be trimmed and smooth, and the large section had better be trimmed into a 45-degree slope of leather and xylem. This can not only prevent bacterial infection, but also help the wound heal as soon as possible and take root as soon as possible.

3. After the wound has been treated, it can not be put on the basin immediately. It should be placed in the shade to dry for a few hours, so that the wound can naturally collect water and form a protective film, which can greatly reduce the occurrence of juice flow after the pile billet is put on the basin. The biggest disadvantage of all elm varieties is that it is easy to flow juice and run pulp. If the hammer elm pile is broken before and after planting, it is difficult to overcome this disadvantage effectively, then it is difficult to ensure the survival of the pile.

4. Some hammer-elm piles have many holes in the upper face, and many holes are filled with deciduous soil and weeds, which must be thoroughly removed. The reason is that these sundries more or less contain ant colonies or insect eggs, if they are not cleaned up before potting, the weather gets warmer in the future, the activity of ant colonies and insect eggs in the cave increases, reproduction increases, it is difficult to cure, and the harm is endless. In the end, the pile may be eaten and killed.

Hammer elm likes to be dry and afraid of dampness, so it should be planted in earthen pots. The soil had better be made of yellow sand, pine needle soil and loess in the proportion of 4:3:3. This kind of soil is both breathable and water-retaining, and does not accumulate water. Several layers of tiles are padded to the bottom of the basin, and then a layer of coarse sand is padded to the bottom of the basin. After the soil is good, it is shaken a few times, and then compacted downward along the edge of the basin to prevent the formation of voids under the pile root and affect the hairy root. After pouring the fixed root water thoroughly, cover it with a plastic bag and put it in a relatively fixed place. Do not move it often, so as not to touch the pile root and break the root bud. Try to control watering, spray more water on the branches, and the basin soil had better be kept dry.

Do not rush to fertilize after the survival of the new pile, which is an important reason for the failure of many people to raise billet, which should be applied again after autumn.