MySheen

How to raise potted Anthurium andraeanum?

Published: 2024-12-23 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/12/23, How to raise potted Anthurium andraeanum?

Anthurium andraeanum, also known as candle, red goose palm, fire crane flower, etc., is a perennial evergreen herb of Araceae. It is native to Costa Rica, Colombia and other tropical rain forest regions. Its flower posture is strange and beautiful, and its flowering period is long. It is suitable for potted plants, cut flowers or garden shaded areas to plant and beautify. Let's take a look at how potted Anthurium can be cultivated.

Growth habits of Anthurium andraeanum

Anthurium andraeanum is often attached to trees and sometimes grows on rocks or grows directly on the ground. It likes warm, hot, humid and well-drained semi-shady environment, and is afraid of drought and strong light exposure. It is suitable for growth at a day temperature of 26 ℃ and a night temperature of 21 ℃. The highest tolerable temperature is 35 ℃ and the bearable low temperature is 14 ℃.

Propagation methods of Anthurium andraeanum

1. Ramet: the ramet period is mainly in the cool and humid spring, and it can also be ramet in the cool weather in autumn, not in the hot summer or dry and cold season.

2. Cutting: the cuttings with 1 / 2 stem nodes and 3 / 4 leaves were inserted into the water moss and planted in the basin after the new roots germinated.

3. Sowing: Anthurium andraeanum seeds are larger, which are sown in indoor pot, the optimum temperature for germination is 25-28 ℃, and germinate 20-25 days after sowing. The sowing seedlings need 3-4 years to blossom.

Culture method of Anthurium andraeanum

1. Humidity: the normal growth of Anthurium andraeanum needs about 70% air humidity, which is generally difficult to achieve in ordinary family farming. You can use a clean wet towel to wet the leaves several times a day, or spray water around the plant regularly to increase air humidity. But do not spray water on the flowers, so as not to affect the ornamental quality.

2. Fertilizer and water: under normal growth conditions, dry wetlands can be seen to water the cultivated soil every week. Generally grasp the principle that the soil surface is not dry or irrigated, and the soil surface is thoroughly watered. The watering times and amount of water can be reduced appropriately in spring, autumn and winter. 70.8% of the special nutrient solution or 500 times diluted fertilizer water should be applied with watering every half month.

3. Pruning: in general, during the growth of Anthurium andraeanum, the basal petiole degenerates gradually, and the stipules can be cut off in time when the stipules become dry. When the pedicel turns yellow after anthesis, it should also be cut off from the protective post of 2 cm at the base as soon as possible.

4. Temperature: the culture temperature of Anthurium andraeanum should be guaranteed as much as possible, the optimum growth temperature of Anthurium andraeanum should be 16-24 ℃, and the lowest temperature should be above 12 ℃. If ordinary families have heating facilities, this condition is easy to achieve. But at the same time, it must be noted that the flowerpot should not be placed on or too close to the radiator. When the summer temperature exceeds 30 ℃, the flowers should be moved to a ventilated room opposite to the north, and water can be sprayed around the plants to cool down.

5. Illumination: Anthurium andraeanum must have sufficient scattered light for normal growth, and family culture should generally pay attention to: avoid strong light to direct leaves and flowers in summer, and move to the vicinity of the window in autumn and winter if conditions permit, in order to increase light. It is also necessary to rotate the plant regularly to ensure that it receives uniform light and promote the perfection of its crown shape.

What if the leaves of Anthurium andraeanum turn yellow?

1. Metabolism: if it is found that the leaves of Anthurium andraeanum are yellow, we should pay attention to observe the situation of other leaves. If the leaves are fresh and tender yellow-green, and the flowers are growing well, it is a normal phenomenon that new leaves are growing and old leaves are yellowing and falling.

2. Soil discomfort: there are more salt and alkali in the medium and water in most areas of the north. Due to the lack of soluble iron that plants need to absorb in the medium, the leaves will gradually lose green and turn yellow. The solution is to use oxalic acid and other treatment media and water for watering flowers.

3. Too much watering: the new leaves of Anthurium andraeanum are yellow and the old leaves are normal. In general, too much water and too often will make the medium in the basin too wet for a long time, or even stagnant water, causing some fibrous roots to rot, hindering normal breathing and absorbing nutrients, causing the leaves to turn yellow and fall off gradually. The solution is normal watering.

4. Air drying: when the indoor flower-growing air is too dry in winter, the leaf tip is often withered and yellowed, or the leaf edge is scorched, or the leaf has scorched spots, edge curling and so on. The solution is to increase the air humidity according to the growth characteristics of Anthurium andraeanum.

5. Excessive sunshade: if Anthurium andraeanum is placed in the shade or in a place with insufficient light for a long time, it will lead to weak growth, thin and yellow leaves, no flowering or rarely flowering. The solution is to increase the light intensity according to the growth characteristics of Anthurium andraeanum.

6. The temperature is not suitable: if the indoor temperature is too low in winter, the leaves will turn yellow. if the room temperature is too high, the plant transpiration is too high, and the root water and nutrients are insufficient, the leaves will turn yellow. The solution is to keep the temperature in the greenhouse relatively stable.

7. Uneven fertilization: little fertilization, or no change of soil for a long time, lack of nitrogen and other nutrients in the soil lead to thin branches and leaves, thin and yellow leaves. In addition, excessive fertilization will also lead to the thickening and uneven of new leaves, and the dry tip and scorched yellow of old leaves will fall off at the same time. At this time, we should immediately stop fertilization, increase watering, remove part of the old soil, replace it with new culture soil, and carry out normal management.

 
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