Propagation methods of Japanese evening cherry

Many people have seen cherry blossoms, but do not know cherry blossoms are also divided into early cherry and late cherry, in fact, late cherry flowers are more heavy, and flowering long. Some flower friends are very interested in Japanese late cherry, but do not know how to reproduce, Xiaobian will introduce you to the breeding method of Japanese late cherry, interested friends can understand together.

Japanese evening cherry

Japanese late cherry has a lot of horticultural varieties, with double petals pink varieties as the top grade, its seeds are few, and it is difficult to take root by branch cutting, so the propagation coefficient is small, which limits its application in gardens. Previous studies have not made breakthrough progress in improving the reproductive coefficient of Japanese late cherry. The reason why it is difficult for Mei to take root may be related to the accumulation of inert substances in dormant branches.

Japanese late cherry is better to use expanded vermiculite in seedbed soil selection. Vermiculite seedbed day and night temperature difference is small, accumulated temperature is large, heat preservation effect is good, conducive to root growth. Then select the 15 cm long branches on the strong mother tree, with the new shoots of the year at the upper end and the annual branches at the lower end as cuttings. The survival rate of cuttings was highest in flowering stage of cherry blossom.

Lay 2 to 3 cm of river sand on the bottom of the brick-built seedbed and fill it with vermiculite 15 cm thick. Install a centrifugal sprinkler every 1 meter, shade properly when the weather turns hot, and spray water frequently to ensure humidity. Surrounding branches can be used as a windbreak fence, cuttings vertically inserted in vermiculite, plant spacing 2 cm, row spacing 4 cm, irrigation after insertion. Cutting depth 6 to 8 cm is appropriate.

The role of Japanese late cherry, Japanese late cherry conservation knowledge, Japanese late cherry classification

Flower Bonsai Network Guide: Today's flower bonsai network Xiaobian for everyone to share is about the role of Japanese late cherry, Japanese late cherry conservation knowledge, Japanese late cherry classification article, let's take a look.

The Japanese late cherry is one of the cherry blossoms. Flowers are more beautiful and suitable for viewing. So besides this ornamental function, does Japanese late cherry have any other functions?

Japanese late cherry is a famous ornamental plant. Flower buds have the medicinal value of "antitussive and expelling wind."

Ornamental function of Japanese late cherry

In the breeding of Japanese late cherry, the most prominent role is probably its ornamental role.

Japanese late cherry blossoms big, and has fragrance, flowering time, full of flowers, there is a kind of flowering feeling. Generally speaking, the beautiful Japanese late cherry group planting, can give full play to its ornamental role.

There are several brands of Japanese late cherry, which can be cultivated in pieces. Whether it is in landscape gardens, courtyards or roads, Japanese late cherry can beautify the environment and create different natural scenery.

The medicinal function of Japanese late cherry

In addition to viewing, Japanese late cherry also has certain medicinal effects.

The medicinal part of Japanese late cherry is mainly its flower bud. The flower bud of Japanese late cherry has the effect of relieving cough and expelling wind. After it is used as medicine, it can treat some respiratory diseases such as cough and tracheitis. The effect was still quite remarkable.

Edible function of Japanese late cherry

Japanese late cherry blossom not only beautiful, ornamental strong, can be used as medicine, it also has the role of edible. The most edible part of Japanese cherry is its many flowers.

The flowers of Japanese late cherry can be used as an additive to some processed foods, making cherry cakes or cherry cakes, and the food made is also delicious.

In addition, it can also be made into cherry wine for people to drink, cherry wine has a softening blood vessels, conditioning the role of qi and blood.

Japanese late cherry conservation knowledge

Cultivation techniques of Japanese late cherry

Japanese late cherry blossoms are large, double petals, bright colors, fragrant smells and long flowering periods. They are excellent varieties of cherry blossoms. Its grafting propagation into seedlings slow, cumbersome operation, hard branch cuttings and difficult to root. With vermiculite as substrate and annual branches with tender shoots as cuttings in full bloom, the survival rate was very high. The temperature of vermiculite seedbed was 2℃ to 3℃ higher than that of soil bed at night, but 1℃ to 2℃ lower than that of soil bed at noon. It showed that the temperature difference between day and night was small, the accumulated temperature was large, and the heat preservation effect was good, which was beneficial to root growth. In production, granular vermiculite is better, its permeability is good, conducive to rooting. And powdery vermiculite is sticky, permeability is poor. Do not mix soil with vermiculite when seedling raising, otherwise it will rot easily. Cutting time from April to July can be carried out, flowering cherry cutting survival rate is the highest, the plant is in the physiological activity peak, easy to root. Cuttings on April 28, June 28 after transplanting did not slow seedlings, 5 days after germination of 0.5 cm of new buds, 4 years after cultivation flowers full of trees. Selection and treatment of cuttings (1) Selection of cuttings: Cut 15 cm long branches from healthy mother trees, with new shoots at the upper end and annual branches at the lower end. The leaves on the new shoots can produce nutrients, the annual branches have lignified, and the cuttings are easy to survive. Most of the cuttings of 3 to 6 years old rotted and died. The survival rate of cuttings is related to age. The older the branch is, the weaker its physiological function is, and the more difficult it is to survive. (2) Cuttings treatment: Before cutting, remove the leaves inserted into vermiculite and keep the upper leaves. Cuttings were treated with 1000ppm NAA quick dip. That is: the cuttings base 2 to 3 cm into 1000ppm naphthylacetic acid solution, and then immediately take out for cuttage, with the dip with the insertion. Cuttage method with brick base into 20 cm high, 1 m wide (length depends on the number of cuttings) seedbed, seedbed bottom spread 2 to 3 cm of river sand, and then filled with 15 cm thick vermiculite. Install a centrifugal spray nozzle every 1 meter, or connect the spray rod to the tap water pipe for spraying. In early May set up shade shed, surrounded by branches for wind fence, in order to keep warm moisture can also be set up plastic shed cover on the seedbed. The cuttings are vertically inserted into vermiculite in rows, with plant spacing of 2 cm and row spacing of 4 cm. After insertion, they are irrigated with water. Cutting depth of 6 to 8 cm is appropriate, because it has been observed that the temperature at 5 cm depth is 2 ° C to 4 ° C higher than that at 10 cm depth, and most of the healing tissue and adventitious roots are born at 6 to 8 cm. Spraying frequently after planting management to keep the leaves moist is the key to survival. At noon, when the temperature is high, the spraying frequency is more and the interval time is shorter. At night and in the morning when there is dew can not spray, the relative humidity of the air is maintained at more than 90%, vermiculite humidity is maintained at 58% to 60%. Be sure to achieve this target before rooting, especially before the formation of healing tissue. In early May, shade shelters should be set up to prevent sun exposure. When the temperature in the plastic shed exceeds 35℃, open both ends of the shed for ventilation, and seal it after the temperature drops to 27℃. If the weather is too hot, spray water outside the plastic shed, which can cool down and avoid excessive water spraying to cause excessive moisture content of vermiculite. Transplanting time and method When the root system of cuttings grows to 6 to 8 cm, transplant them in time. Transplanting too late, cuttings roots will turn brown rot, leaves will gradually turn yellow. This is because vermiculite can only keep warm, moisturize, ventilate, and promote roots, but there is no nutrient for cuttings to continue to grow. In addition, the cuttings with few roots or only callus without roots should be kept in the seedbed and transplanted after the roots grow well. Creating an environment suitable for the continued growth of cuttings is the key to ensure the survival of transplanting. Should choose fertile land without ponding, do 8 meters long, 0.3 meters wide north-south ridge, mixed with sandy loam deep turn 30 cm, and then covered with 2 cm thick sandy loam. Leveling the ridge surface, planting one row per ridge, plant spacing 30 cm. Put the root system of cuttings together with the surrounding vermiculite into the planting hole, and cover the hole with sand. Do not press hard to prevent breaking the tender roots. Then the surface of the bed was irrigated with water and a 1.2-meter-high shade shed was erected above it. Spray 2 to 3 times a day to keep the leaves moist, water the ground frequently, see dry see wet. The seedlings transplanted in this way are not slow seedlings, high survival rate and normal growth. The results showed that IBA treatment could significantly improve the rooting rate of cuttings and the quality of cuttings, and the rooting rate and seedling rate of basal segments were better than those of middle segments. The best way to treat the cuttings of Japanese late cherry with IBA is to select the basal segment of the branch of one year old as cuttings. Planting and cultivation 1. Seed cultivation--less seeds 2. Cuttage rooting--Cuttage rooting of plum plants is difficult, which may be related to the accumulation of inert substances in dormant branches 3. Non-test tube rapid propagation technology

Disease control of Japanese late cherry

Disease control When nodule disease occurs, there are nodules at the root of the plant, different shapes, different sizes, brown to dark brown in color, rough epidermis often cracked, and the occurrence occurs on the ground or near the root neck or at the junction of rootstock and scion. Plants often show poor growth and short stature after being damaged. Control method: dig up the injured plants, wash the soil, soak the roots in 1% copper sulfate solution for 5~8 minutes, rinse after soaking, and then plant again; cut off the tumors, and smear 0.1% mercury chloride solution on the wounds, and then plant. At the early stage of anthracnose, there are round spots on young leaves, which can form perforations after healing. After June, the leaves become hard, and the spots on leaves are rough and brown irregular spots. When the disease is serious, it can cause a large number of leaves and cause withered buds. Control method: alternately spraying 1000 times solution of 70% mancozeb wettable granules or 50% carbendazim wettable granules and 1000 times solution of 50% Tuijunte wettable granules for 3~4 times continuously, with an interval of 7~10 days each time; spraying leaves on plants is prohibited during disease onset period. Brown spot perforation disease onset, leaves initially born with brown round spots, with the development of disease gradually formed a diameter of about 3 cm round spots, clear boundaries of the disease spots, the outside is purple-brown, white brown in the middle, with ring patterns, the disease spots died off after the formation of irregular perforations. Control methods: After the disease can spray 50% Garinone 1000 times solution for control, once every 10 days, continuous spray 3~4 times, can effectively control the disease.

Classification of Japanese late cherry varieties

In Japan, horticultural classification refers to wild species collectively as "mountain cherry", artificial selection and natural variation as "sakura". The common cherry varieties in Chinese gardens are mainly: Yunnan Zaoying (P. majestica) originated in Yunnan Province. Flowering from late February to early March. Flowers first and leaves later, flowers dark red, petals about 25, flower diameter about 2.5 cm, flowers were half-open state, drooping, sepals red. The young leaves are dark brown. Prunus x yedoensis is an important cultivar of Japanese cherry blossoms. It is a hybrid of Oshima cherry and Edo hibana cherry, inheriting the characteristics of large flowers and first flowers and then leaves respectively. Flowers in mid-March, single flower, pale pink, 4~5 flowers forming racemes, sepals and pedicels hairy. The tree is tall, reaching 10 - 15 meters. Oshima cherry (P. lannesiana var.speciosa) is a representative of wild cherry blossoms, which can reach a height of 15 meters. Flowers bloom in mid-March, flowers and leaves bloom together. White, single petal, corymbose open. Calyx tube long bell-shaped, sepals lanceolate, margin serrated, flowers glabrous as a whole. Many cherry horticultural varieties are derived from Oshima cherry. P. lannesiana Sekiyama is a variety of Japanese late cherry, widely cultivated in China. Flowering in late March or early April, flowers and leaves open together. Flowers thick red, flower diameter about 6 cm, about 30 petals, 2 pistil leaves, so can not bear fruit, pedicel thick and long. The young leaves are dark brown. Branchlets numerous and curved upward. Peony cherry (red flowers, pink) rain night (white flowers)

Cuttage propagation of Japanese late cherry

cutting time

4-7 The survival rate of cherry cuttings in full bloom was the highest.

Selection and treatment of cuttings

Cut robust branches, about 15 cm in length, with annual shoots at the top and annual branches at the bottom. In Japan late cherry cuttings before the lower leaves to remove, only to retain the upper leaves can be. Then put the base 2, 3 cm of the cuttings into 1000ppm naphthylacetic acid solution, the base 2-3 cm, dip immediately after cutting.

cuttage method

With brick base into 20 cm high, 1 m wide seedbed, seedbed bottom shop 2, 3 cm of river sand, and then filled with 15 cm thick vermiculite. Install a centrifugal nozzle at intervals of 1 meter, or connect the spray rod to the tap water pipe to spray. In early May, it is necessary to set up a shade, and use branches as fences around it to block the wind, or set up a plastic canopy on the seedbed. Cuttings are inserted vertically into vermiculite in rows, keeping plant spacing of 2 cm and row spacing of 4 cm. The suitable cutting depth is between 6 and 8 cm. After the cutting is completed, it needs to be irrigated thoroughly.

post-insertion management

Spray leaves frequently, especially at noon when the temperature is high. The relative humidity of the air needs to be kept above 90%, while the vermiculite humidity should be kept at about 60%. This index must be achieved before rooting, especially before healing tissue formation.

Shading sheds are needed in early May to prevent exposure. When the temperature in the plastic shed is higher than 35℃, it is necessary to open both ends of the shed for ventilation, and then seal it after the temperature drops to 27℃. If the weather is hot, spray water outside the plastic shed to cool down and avoid excessive water spraying leading to excessive moisture content of vermiculite.