Planting method of Schisandra chinensis

Schizandra chinensis is a kind of artificial cultivation of a traditional Chinese medicine, schisandra chinensis picking pruning is the most critical, many friends are not too clear about the pruning method of schisandra chinensis, if pruning is not correct, it will cause certain damage to schisandra chinensis, and, after picking schisandra how to preserve it? These questions friends must want to find the answer quickly, now let's learn more about the processing and storage methods of schisandra.

1, row direction The best row direction of schisandra chinensis cultivation is north-south direction, good lighting and good ventilation, laying the foundation for stable and high yield.

2. The seedlings of schisandra chinensis grow vigorously in the summer of the year when they are transplanted. 3-4 strong lateral vines are selected for each plant to lead the vines to the stem. One seedling has two stems and each stem climbs two main vines. Cut off the main stem of the original seedling. When each main vine branch grows to 50 cm long, shoot the top to set the stem, promote the bud under the shear mouth to grow young branches (i.e. short fruit branches, also called secondary shoots). When the young branch grows to 30 cm long, choose a strong branch not to shoot the top to extend the main tendril, the rest of the auxiliary shoots are pointed at 20 cm, only the tips of the auxiliary shoots are hit in that year, and the extended branches are not pointed to the beginning of autumn.

3. The quantity of female flowers is the key to yield. In cultivation and management, by pruning and improving ventilation and light transmission conditions on the frame surface, photosynthetic efficiency of leaves can be improved, the number of female flowers can be increased, and stable and high yield can be ensured. Pruning, build a good skeleton for stable and high yield. Before the sap flows in early spring, the extended main vine branches of the previous year shall be cut off at a length of 30 cm, and the auxiliary shoots shall be reduced to 20 cm. If there is no auxiliary shoot, the extended main vine branches shall be cut off at a distance of 50 cm from the ground. When the new shoots grow to 20 cm long, one of the shoots is not pointed to extend the branch, and the rest are all pointed at 20 cm, so as to promote the main tendril to be strong and the flower buds on the shoots to be full. When extending the main vine branch to 50 cm high (including the original 30 cm), tip again, and the rest of the accessory shoots remain 30 cm long to tip, so that nutrients are concentrated on the main vine branch and each accessory shoot, which can increase the number of female flowers and make the flower buds fully mature and full. The third time around the beginning of autumn to see sharp on the fight, promote early lignification of branches to prevent frost damage appeared to pull dry branches.

4. When a large number of fruits are cyclically renewed, each accessory shoot (i.e., the short fruit branch) will be fully reduced to 10-15 cm before the sap flows in early spring. When flowering and fruiting, new short fruit branches can be issued at the intersection of the base and the main vine branches, and the healthy ones can be selected as the fruit branches of the next year, and the rest can be removed in time. When pruning next year, the old fruiting branches will be cut off, and the new fruiting branches will be renewed cyclically. This kind of pruning method will be basically used in the future. In addition, when the main vine branch climbs over the pole is not high enough, the branch will fall down, to timely cut off at the top of the pole 10 cm, to prevent "wearing straw hat" adverse light transmission.