MySheen

Introduction to Cuttage Propagation of Rhododendron

Published: 2024-11-06 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/06, There are many varieties of azaleas, so there are many colors of azaleas, and some azaleas are very fragrant, so they are very popular. Among the ornamental flowers, rhododendron can be said to be the most widely used variety of flowers. Some friends who like azaleas often want to breed azaleas themselves.

There are many varieties of azaleas, so there are many colors of azaleas, and some azaleas are very fragrant, so they are very popular. Among the ornamental flowers, rhododendron can be said to be the most widely used variety of flowers. Some friends who like azaleas often want to breed azaleas themselves, so what method should be used to breed them?

Rhododendron

At present, most of the propagation methods of rhododendron use the cutting method of vegetative reproduction, which is one of the ways to ensure that the offspring are exactly the same as their parents, and it is a better way to propagate the same clones in large numbers. Generally speaking, the varieties with medium and large leaves of evergreen rhododendron can be harvested from late September to late October. For Yingshanhong varieties which are easy to take root, it is the best time to use semi-mature branches when the surface air temperature is about 20 ℃ and the surface temperature is about 30 ℃ from mid-June to mid-July in summer. In autumn and winter, mature branches are used in indoor cutting, and the survival rate is high. The cuttage basin should be a shallow tile basin with good air permeability in 20cm caliber. The culture soil can use 20% humus soil, 40% horse dung shavings and 40% river sand mixed soil as the matrix. The pH of the matrix should be between PH4 and PH4.5. After the matrix is prepared, put it into the prepared cutting basin, the depth should be more than 8 cm. To prevent the growth of moss, a thin layer of sand can be added. When cutting rhododendron, it is appropriate to choose the semi-lignified branches and shoots of the same year as cuttings. The daughter-in-law cut the 6-10cm according to the section of the knife band, and the incision should be neat and smooth, leaving only 4 lobules at the top of the shoot. Dip the intercepted cuttings in vitamin B12 solution, take them out and hang them for a while. Before cutting, spray a little water with a spray can to make the soil moist in the basin, and the depth of cutting is 3mur4cm. When inserting, first save a hole in the basin soil with a thin stick, then insert the cuttings, compact them with your hands, and then water them thoroughly at once.

After inserting it, tie the cover of the flowerpot with a plastic bag, open it when you need to water it, and then tie it again after pouring. Put it in the shade and irrigate the cuttings for 10 days continuously (except on rainy days). Spray the can twice a day when the air is dry, but the amount of water should not be too much every day. Then keep the soil moist. Within 1 month, we should pay attention to avoid direct sunlight, until the bud can gradually bask in some sun. About 2 months after rooting, you only need to shade the sun for 3 hours on a hot afternoon. The soil in the basin must be loose, with half peat and half sand, plus half rotten leaves. As the winter is approaching, the seedlings with primary roots should be protected through the first winter. In order to make the plant short and round, the new shoots on the top should be cut off to promote the formation of lateral branches. In the spring of the following year, the planting beds planted in the open field should be prepared early, and the surface should be covered with thick peat of 10cm, and then turned evenly into the topsoil. After planting, the ground is covered with 5 cm thick leaves, pine needles or sawdust to reduce evaporation. Pay attention to shading and require a light transmittance of 50%. There will still be one or two heart-picking times in the second year. Because azaleas like to be moist and afraid of high temperature, they should often spray water in summer.

How to cut azaleas? Cutting Propagation method of Rhododendron branches

Flower friend: the company took inventory today. I saw a whole row of azaleas growing in the flower bed. It was very beautiful. I couldn't help but break this branch. Can you cut it alive now? How to operate it exactly? Coordinates Xiamen, the temperature is about 10-20 degrees.

Picture: Azalea branches

Editor: first of all, I can tell you responsibly that azaleas can be cut alive with branches, but the branches you break and the time are not suitable. The correct operation method is as follows:

1. Branch selection

Rhododendron cuttings can choose softwood cuttings and old wood cuttings, but can not choose branches that have blossomed and sprout, because nutrients have begun to be consumed, which will affect the survival rate.

Pull down the rhododendron branch with your hand at the base (where it connects with the stem), usually 4-6 cm in length, with 4-5 leaves at the top. When the fracture is broken and hairy, it should be cut flat with a sharp shearing, and then inserted into the soil, with a depth of 1/3 of the length of the branches and a row spacing of 5-6 cm.

In addition, if you use rhododendron softwood cuttings, the branches should choose the sturdy branches newly issued in the same year.

Picture: Azalea cuttings

2. Cutting time

The old branch cuttings are usually from April to May, and the old branches of last year are used before flowering, and the softwood cuttings are better carried out in the plum rain season. Therefore, when the air humidity is high, promote rapid growth, generally in late May to June.

3. Cutting seedbed

It is best to make a nursery bed before cutting. at home, you can use a collapsed basin or a mud basin with a diameter of 20 cm and 23 cm. The bottom of the basin must be covered with broken tiles to facilitate drainage.

Picture: cutting azaleas can not be put on the balcony.

4. Cuttage maintenance

After insertion, spray with a fine hole spray can, water should be fully watered, and sunshade should be done within 7-10 days. It is best to put it indoors to prevent sunlight and spray it 6 or 7 times a day with a sprayer to increase the air humidity of the cuttings.

After 10 days, there will be a little light in the morning and evening, and the spray will be sprayed 3-4 times a day. After about 15 days, the cutting branches are still relatively full, and the leaves do not fall off, indicating that the fracture has grown fine roots, generally 25-30 days rooting has been intact.

Some excellent varieties are not easy to survive, so vermiculite can be used as a medium for cutting. The method is the same as above, if it can be matched with automatic intermittent spray to keep the leaf surface of the cuttings moist, the survival rate can reach more than 95%.

The Cuttage Propagation of Rhododendron

Small-leaf rhododendron is a special variety with small leaves and flowering period from March to April. Because the seed particles of small-leaf rhododendron are very small, it is likely to be unsuccessful if the sowing method is not paid attention to. Therefore, the general family breeding of small-leaf rhododendron is not recommended to use sowing method, generally choose cutting or grafting method is relatively high success rate. The editor will introduce you to the cuttage propagation of rhododendron. Friends who like it can learn together.

Small leaf rhododendron

From May to June, select the semi-lignified branches with short internodes, cut off from the base as cuttings, and retain 3 to 5 leaflets at the top. If the branches are too long, the top can also be cut off. The cutting medium can be orchid mud, alpine humus, vermiculite, perlite or yellow soil, about 15 cm to 20 cm thick and covered with a drainage layer of 7 cm to 8 cm. After the medium is wet, the cuttings are inserted into the substrate, and the depth of the cuttings is about 1Make2 of the ear length. A small amount of cuttings in the family can also choose large flowerpots as cutting seedbeds instead of medium. After planting, cover with plastic film to moisturize, control the temperature between 25 ℃ and 30 ℃, add shade to block the sun, or put it in the shade, always keep the cutting substrate moist. East cuckoo can take root after about 1 month, while west cuckoo takes 60 to 70 days to take root. After September, the shading time can be reduced, and the dilute urea solution can be applied once, the concentration is about 0.2%, and it can be put on the basin in late October. If full light electronic time intermittent spray device is used in production, vermiculite and other cutting media can survive after 20 days, and the general survival rate can reach more than 95%.

 
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