Operation method of grafting propagation of peach blossom

Because the peach blossom is difficult to take root by cutting propagation, and the requirements for the environment are relatively high, so peach blossom propagation often uses grafting to propagate. In order to improve the survival rate of peach blossom grafting, we need to pay attention to some technical problems in grafting.

Peach blossom

Peach blossom propagation is mainly grafting, mostly cutting or shield bud grafting. The rootstock East China uses hairy peach (half cultivation type of peach), while mountain peach is used in the north, but the peach trees grafted with hairy peach or mountain peach rootstock have the disadvantages of short tree age and many diseases and insect pests. If apricot is used as rootstock, although grafting is more laborious, the initial growth is slightly slower, but the lifespan is long and fewer diseases and insect pests.

The seeds of rootstocks should be sowed in autumn or stratified with wet sand after autumn and sown in the early spring of next year. When sowing, usually the row spacing is 40 cm to 50 cm, the plant spacing is 10 cm to 20 cm, and the furrow is 5 cm, one grain at each place. When sowing in spring, if the bud has already sprouted, cover the bud with soil.

Bud grafting is mostly carried out from July to August, it is better to use one-year-old seedlings, and two-year-old rootstocks are barely available. The survival rate of bud grafting is very high, mostly more than 95%; if it does not germinate in the same year, it will be checked once in the coming spring, and the survivors will remove the anvil buds to make the peach blossom scion sprout, and those who are not alive can be cut and propagated.

Cutting is carried out when the buds have begun to sprout in spring. The branches of peach blossoms that grow and enrich in spring are selected and cut into 6-7 cm long branches with 2-node buds (1 section is also acceptable). The cut length is 2-3 cm. The rootstock is better for one-or two-year-old seedlings, but not for those who are too old. Cut off the top of the rootstock about 5 cm from the ground, and then cut it. After that, it is necessary to cultivate the soil and cover the top of the scion slightly. The survival rate of splicing can generally reach 90% or higher.

Propagation method of Flower grafting

Propagation method of Flower grafting

Some flowers which are not easy to seed or sexual reproduction are prone to variation, cuttings, striping and difficult to take root, are generally commonly used to carry on the family line. Satiety is to attach the branches or buds of one plant to another last with roots, and when the two heal, they become independent new plants. the branches or buds that are grafted are called scions, and the plants that bear scions are called rootstocks. As the female parent of scion, it is required to be wild or semi-wild species with strong root system, strong tree and strong adaptability. The Flower Mirror once used vivid language to illustrate the superiority of grafting: "the small flower can be big, the petal single can be heavy, the red color can be purple, the small can be huge, the bitter can be sweet, and the evil can be reproduced by grafting. Therefore, it is widely used in flower horticulture and fruit tree horticulture.

The time of grafting varies according to the method of grafting. As far as branch grafting is concerned, it is generally suitable for 2-3 weeks before spring germination, that is, from late February to mid-March. At this time, the cambium of the rootstock has begun to move, which can provide water and nutrients to the scion and promote the formation of callus, while the buds of the scion have just sprouted, which is very beneficial to the survival of grafting. Autumn grafting is carried out from October to late November, the wound heals first after grafting, and the scion is not often used in autumn, but it is not often used in autumn. Bud grafting is mostly carried out in late summer and early autumn, and it is generally appropriate from early July to early September, when the young branches are developed and full, and the bark of rootstocks is easy to peel off, which is the best time for bud grafting.

Grafting method

(1) splicing (2) abutment (3) splicing (4) budding

(1) splicing: it is a common grafting method when propagating woody flowers (see figure 1). It is best to carry out in the early spring when the terminal bud is about to sprout but not yet shoot and spread leaves, when the incision is the easiest to be compatible and the survival rate of grafting is high.

Choose one-year-old fully developed vegetative branches as scions, do not use flower branches with flower buds. Cut them into branches 6cm to 10cm long, each with two full axillary buds. First, the base of the scion is cut into two symmetrical bevels of different sizes with a cutter, one side is 1.5 cm long and the other side is 0.8 cm long. The cutting surface must be flat, preferably cut with one knife. At the same time, cut the rootstock about 20 cm above the ground and cut a crack 2cm to 2.4 cm deep on the north side of the cross section of the rootstock according to the thickness of the scion. Then the long side of the scion is cut inward and inserted into the incision of the rootstock. The cambium on both sides must be aligned with the cambium on both sides of the incision. Finally, tighten them with plastic strips.

(2) split grafting: when the rootstock is relatively strong, use a large knife to split a gap in the rootstock to insert into the scion. The difference between it and cutting is that the incision on the rootstock does not deviate from one side, but is located in the middle of the section; the length of the two cuts on both sides of the scion is the same and is duckbill-shaped, but the two ends of the cutting surface should be wide on one side with a strand of cortex, and the other side is extremely narrow and blade-shaped, without cortex; a scion is inserted on each side of the cut of the rootstock, and the cambium of the wide surface of the scion is aligned with the cambium of the rootstock.

Posterior ligature (see figure 1).

When grafting by split grafting, two scions can be inserted at the same time. It's safer to have one if you can't pick it up. When splitting, the cross section of the rootstock is very large, and the gap in the center of the split is not easy to close, and the incision is easy to mildew after being drenched in the rain, which reduces the survival rate, so the plastic strip must be wrapped up and down to seal the section completely.

(3) leaning on: when cutting and splicing potted evergreen flowers and trees that are not easy to survive, use 0, such as using privet as rootstock to connect sweet-scented osmanthus, common mountain tea to Yunnan mountain tea, etc. The survival rate of grafting is the highest in the growing season, but should avoid the rainy season and summer days, preferably in May-June or August-September.

Before the grafting, the standing seedlings are planted in a flowerpot in advance, and after the new roots are grown, the potted rootstocks are placed on the branches of the mother plant of the scion, or on a stool so that they are close to a branch on the mother plant of the scion, so some people call the connection a stool (see figure 1).

The scion branches selected should be close to the thickness of the trunk of the rootstock, and then the parts close to them should be cut into a fusiform surface 3 to 5 cm long, deep to the xylem, and the width and width of the cut should be the same. Then pull the scion branches on the mother plant to the rootstocks in the basin to make their cuts match, so that the cambium is aligned, and then tied and fixed.

Most of the interfaces can be compatible about 45-60 days after grafting, so first cut off the scions under the interface, let them leave the mother, and remove the flowerpot from the mother plant. If the scion grows normally after a month, cut off the branches of the rootstock on the interface, and remove the binding band next year.

(4) Bud grafting: suitable for rose, peach blossom, plum blossom, floor flower and other rose flowers. This kind of flowers are the easiest to peel in late summer and early autumn, the sap flow in the body is also more exuberant, and have full axillary buds, so the survival rate is high.

The scion of bud grafting should choose the full and full branches of the same year, and the liquid buds above must mature and be in a dormant state. After picking, cut off the leaves one by one, but you must keep the petiole, and then wrap it in a wet sack and prepare for grafting. .

When grafting, you should choose the axillary bud in the middle of the branch as the grafting bud, first cut across the axillary bud at about 3 / 4 mm above the axillary bud, then cut 1.5 / 2 mm deep into the xylem * then push upward from about 5 / 6 mm below the petiole and stop the knife at the transverse cut above the axillary bud, then remove the shield bud and pinch off the remaining xylem on the inner side of the bud with your fingernails. Then cut a T-shaped incision at the north side of the main branch of the rootstock 10-15 cm from the ground, the size of the incision should be basically the same as the size of the bud, insert the shield-shaped bud into the T-shaped incision from the top to the bottom, and make the bud into the cortex of the rootstock, so that the transverse incision on the upper side of the rootstock coincides with each other, and finally tie it with a plastic strip (see figure 1).

(5) flat grafting: generally used for cactus grafting. The most suitable grafting time is when the temperature is between 18 and 25 degrees Celsius. Indoors, spring, compound and autumn can be carried out, but the temperature from July to August is hot and rainy, which is easy to cause mildew.

When grafting, the rootstock is cut horizontally at an appropriate degree, and the growth point must be cut off, which is one of the keys to success or failure. Then cross-cut the bottom of the scion horizontally, align the rootstock with the pith of the scion, and bind it longitudinally with thread or plastic film strip. the small ball should be loosened and the big ball can be slightly tightened. The two incisions are closely joined and can be healed in 5 to 10 days.

In order to promote the healing of the interface after grafting, it is necessary to maintain a high relative humidity at the interface, in addition to bandaging the interface with plastic film when binding. The interface can also be covered by burying fine soil, especially in the dormant period, and this method can be used after grafting. If the grafted seedling is small * you can also cover the scion with the grafting site with a small plastic bag, or use a support frame to build a small plastic shed to maintain the relative humidity of the small environment, appropriately increase the soil temperature and promote healing. After the temperature rises, the mulch can be removed, because the temperature is too cold is not conducive to survival. After the grafting survives, the bud begins to germinate, the mulch should be removed immediately, so that the budding bud can not see the light in time or become yellow and weak. The bindings should also be removed in time so as not to affect the normal growth of rootstocks and scions. After the bud grafting survives, the top of the rootstock can be cut off before sprouting in the early spring of the following year. After the scion bud germinated, it became a seedling in the same year. Rely on the question plant. The binding can be removed in the autumn of that year, and when the election interface has healed, the scion can be cut off from the mother plant from below the interface to become a new seedling. If you do not live by grafting, you should separate the rootstock from the scion and pick it up again next year. The new shoots extracted after survival should be protected by stents in the first year. The sprouting of rootstocks should be cut off in time.

Propagation methods and pest control of green peach blossom

Propagation method: green peach can be propagated by sowing and grafting. Sowing and propagation are often used to cultivate rootstock peaches. Grafting is generally used to reproduce. In grafting, bud grafting is often used, because bud grafting is easy to survive.

Budding can be carried out from July to September, and the best time is from mid-August to early September. Rootstocks generally use annual peach seedlings, but also apricot and plum annual seedlings. To pick up the buds, you should choose the leaf buds or compound buds on the robust branches of the excellent variety Bitao mother plant, not flower buds or hidden buds. The bud grafting site should be 60-80 cm high in the rootstock, making T-shaped bud grafting. When the grafted buds survive and grow to 12-18 cm long, coring should be carried out to promote the growth of lateral buds. Generally, grafted seedlings can blossom in 3 years. Branch grafting is best carried out in March, and it is often used as a supplementary means after bud grafting failure. Diseases and insect pests: the most serious harm to the peach blossom is a variety of aphids, which mostly occur in May. It can be sprayed with 1000-1500 times of omethoate or 1500 times of dichlorvos EC.