The method of grafting chrysanthemum in high temperature

Chrysanthemum is one of the four famous flowers in China, and it is also one of the cut flowers with the greatest demand in the world. Therefore, if you want to graft chrysanthemum, you must pay attention to the method, especially in high temperature days, the difficulty of grafting will be greatly increased. So how on earth should chrysanthemums be grafted in high temperatures?

Chrysanthemum

There are many methods of chrysanthemum grafting, the commonly used method is split grafting, rootstock and scion should grow strong, tender and moderate, without white pith, and the thickness of rootstock is 3-4 mm, which is slightly larger than that of scion. Pick with the scion, do not pick too much at one time, lest water loss affect survival.

The top tip of chrysanthemum seedlings with a length of 5 cm and 7 cm was selected as scion. Remove the larger leaves in the lower part and leave two or three leaves at the top. Cut the scion into a 1.5 cm wedge with a blade. Then cut the rootstock from the grafting site and split it from the middle of the rootstock with a knife, slightly longer or as long as the scion cutting surface (1.5-2cm). Insert the scion into the split, align the cambium, wrap the interface tightly from top to bottom with plastic strip, and moisturize the cross section of the rootstock. Finally, put on the plastic bag and tie the bag mouth. When bagging, the scion should be put into the bag together with several artemisia leaves under the interface, and be careful not to touch the scion, and the whole grafting process should be fast.

Key points of Chrysanthemum grafting in High temperature Weather

China Garden Network, August 10: when chrysanthemums are grafted in summer with high temperature and humidity, grafting is more difficult. In order to ensure the survival rate of grafting, preparation should be done before grafting, and the time of grafting should be selected properly. At the same time, do a good job in the management after grafting, provide adaptive growth conditions, and ensure the survival of grafting. I. preparatory work

1. Select rootstocks

Artemisia plants which are also Compositae plants are generally selected as rootstocks because of the strong affinity between Artemisia plants and chrysanthemum and high survival rate after grafting. The selection of Artemisia requires erect main stem, multi-branched, perennial varieties, the common varieties are Artemisia annua, Artemisia argyi and so on.

2. Watering

The rootstock and scion mother plant were watered once two or three days before grafting to increase the water content of scion and rootstock. If grafting is carried out in the afternoon of high temperature and dryness, the rootstock and the mother plant of scion should be sprayed with water an hour or two before grafting, so that the mother plant will not wilt physiologically due to excessive evaporation of water in the process of grafting, and wait for the water on the leaf surface of the scion to dry before grafting, so as to prevent diseases caused by excessive moisture during grafting.

3. Prepare plastic bags

Prepare enough plastic bags, ordinary small plastic bags and instant noodle plastic bags. Put the bags into the water and soak them all out, and then use them to trap the grafted seedlings.

Second, grafting time

The time of grafting chrysanthemum in summer is very important, so we should avoid the period of high temperature and choose the time of day with lower temperature for grafting. Generally, it is best to carry out grafting in cloudy days. If grafting is carried out in sunny days, grafting should be carried out before 9: 00 a.m. and after 5: 00 p.m., so as to prevent excessive water loss of scions and rootstocks in the process of grafting.

3. Grafting method

There are many methods of chrysanthemum grafting, the commonly used method is split grafting, rootstock and scion should grow strong, tender and moderate, without white pith, and the thickness of rootstock is 3-4 mm, which is slightly larger than that of scion. Pick with the scion, do not pick too much at one time, lest water loss affect survival. The top tip of chrysanthemum seedlings with a length of 5 cm and 7 cm was selected as scion. Remove the larger leaves in the lower part and leave two or three leaves at the top. Cut the scion into a 1.5 cm wedge with a blade. Then cut the rootstock from the grafting site and split it from the middle of the rootstock with a knife, slightly longer or as long as the scion cutting surface (1.5-2cm). Insert the scion into the split, align the cambium, wrap the interface tightly from top to bottom with plastic strip, and moisturize the cross section of the rootstock. Finally, put on the plastic bag and tie the bag mouth. When bagging, the scion should be put into the bag together with several artemisia leaves under the interface, and be careful not to touch the scion, and the whole grafting process should be fast.

IV. Post-grafting management

The main management work after grafting is shading and watering. Because of the high temperature and strong sunshine in summer, the newly grafted chrysanthemums immediately take shading measures to build a simple arch shed to cover the shade net on the arch shed, which can also be covered with a film to prevent Rain Water in summer. Two or three days later, open a small opening in the plastic bag on the grafted seedling for ventilation, and observe that if there is no dehydration and wilting of the scion, the shade can be removed after the scion basically survives, and the film can be removed first. Pay attention to spraying water on a sunny day. Spray three or four times a day, at the same time to strengthen the ventilation in the shed and bags to prevent excessive muggy, let the scion grow normally, so that the scion gradually adapt to the external environment. If it is found that the scion wilted and died in the bag, it should be repaired in time. The scion begins to grow rapidly in about 20 days. The plastic strip tied to the scion should be removed in time so that it can be transferred to the normal management stage.

How to ensure the survival of chrysanthemum grafting with high temperature in summer

The high temperature in summer makes the grafting of chrysanthemum more difficult and the survival rate is very low. After several years of practice and exploration, the author initially mastered the technology of chrysanthemum grafting in July and August high temperature season, and achieved good results. Chrysanthemum grafting is a complex and meticulous work, in addition to mastering the above technical points, it is also necessary to be careful, careful, rapid and accurate in operation, and to observe, think and deal with frequently in daily management.

1. Grafting time

Cloudy day is the best time for grafting chrysanthemum in high temperature season, followed by windless days before 10:00 and after 4pm, when the temperature is lower than the maximum temperature of 5 ℃ to 7 ℃, and the water loss of rootstock and scion is relatively less.

2. Preparation before grafting

1. The rootstock and scion mother plant were watered once two or three days before watering and grafting to increase the water content of scion and rootstock.

2. The rootstock and scion mother plant were sprayed with water one or two hours before water spray grafting (mostly in the afternoon of high temperature and dry), so that the mother plant would not wilt due to sun exposure in the process of grafting, but attention should be paid to the evaporation of all water on the leaf surface before starting grafting.

3. Prepare enough plastic bags (instant noodle bags will be fine). Soak all the bags in water and take them out. Use the bags after grafting.

3. Grafting method

When the split grafting method is adopted, the rootstock and scion should grow sturdily, moderately old and tender, without white pith, and the thickness of the rootstock is 3 to 4 mm. Pick with the scion, do not pick too much at one time, lest water loss affect survival.

Choose the top tip of 5 to 7 cm long chrysanthemum seedlings as scions. Remove the larger leaves in the lower part and leave two or three leaves at the top. Use a double-sided blade to cut the scion into a 1.5 cm long wedge and contain it in the mouth. Do not touch saliva so as not to affect the affinity between the two. Then cut the rootstock from the grafting site and split it from the middle of the rootstock with a knife, slightly longer or as long as the scion cutting surface (1.5 to 2 cm). Insert the scion into the split, align the cambium, wrap the interface tightly from top to bottom with plastic strip, and moisturize the cross section of the rootstock. Finally, put on the plastic bag and tie the bag mouth. When bagging, the scion should be put into the bag together with several Artemisia leaves under the interface. If the Artemisia leaves under the interface are few or small, several Artemisia leaves should be picked from elsewhere, soaked in water and then bagged. Be careful in operation to avoid knocking off the scion and the whole grafting process should be fast.

IV. Post-grafting management

Shading measures are taken immediately after grafting, and those with small areas are soaked with newspaper or Kraft paper, and then cover all the grafting sites with the help of bamboo stents. In the first day or two, you should spray water in time when the newspaper or Kraft paper dries. The water should not be sprayed too much, the paper should be wet, too much is easy to crush the scion, and the large area can be shaded by a shade net. Two or three days later, open a small opening in the plastic bag for ventilation, and observe that if there is no dehydration and wilting of the scion, the shade can be removed in six or seven days. After the scion basically survived, remove the shade, spray water three or four times a day on a sunny day, and increase the vents on the bag at the same time. Spray a small amount of spray into the bag when the weather is especially dry and hot, so that the scion can gradually adapt to the external environment. If it is found that the scion wilted and died in the bag, it should be repaired in time. The scion begins to grow rapidly in about 20 days, and the plastic strip tied to the scion should be removed in time.