Notes on Cherry Cutting

Many friends are attracted by the appearance of cherry blossoms. In fact, if your courtyard is big enough, you can grow cherry blossoms at home. Usually, cherry blossoms are propagated mainly by grafting, and single cherry blossoms or cherry rootstocks are often used as rootstocks to propagate by cutting or splitting before blooming in early spring. The editor will introduce you to the method of cherry blossom softwood cutting. interested friends can learn about it.

Cherry blossom

I. setting of slotting machine

Select the cool and easy drainage place to build a plastic arch shed height 70~90cm with a width of 1.2m and a width of 1.5m and a length of 5.0m and 6.0m. First dig 25cm at the bottom, then lay the slag with about 10cm thickness, and then cover the expanded perlite or green sand with about 10cm thickness as the cutting substrate to pour water.

Second, cuttage

The cuttings were cut in the cutting bed according to the plant spacing 3cm and row spacing 5cm (it is advisable that the cuttings leaves do not overlap each other). When cutting, drill holes with short wood slightly thicker than cuttings, and then put the cuttings into the hole to compact the matrix around the cuttings so that the matrix and cuttings are in close contact with the cutting depth of 4~5cm.

Third, plug-in management

Immediately after cutting, the relative humidity of the film was kept above 95% by spraying water through the film. After that, spray an appropriate amount of clear water once every morning. The temperature in the arch shed should be kept at about 30 ℃. If the temperature is more than 35 ℃, the substrate temperature should be about 25 ℃. The amount of water sprinkled at the initial stage of cutting should be larger and then gradually reduced. When the cuttings begin to take root (usually about 15 days after cutting), proper ventilation can be done sooner or later, and then gradually increase the ventilation rate to prolong the ventilation time. When the root length of cuttings reaches 3~5cm and each cuttings have 3-5 roots, they can be transplanted.

How to cut cherry blossoms

Cutting time of cherry blossoms

The cutting time of cherry blossoms generally lasts from mid-June in summer to mid-September in autumn. During this period, cherry blossoms can be propagated by cutting.

Cutting steps of Cherry Blossom

Cherry blossom cutting, the first is the choice of cuttings: to use the robust mother tree as the basis, cut a branch that has grown for more than a year on the crown of the mother tree, and then retain the top tip of the cut, cut into cuttings about 15 centimeters long, and then cut the bottom of the cuttings into an oblique mouth for cutting.

Secondly, the cut branches should be soaked for about 3 hours. in the cutter ready for cutting, the environment of the cutter is leeward and sunny, and the cutter should have good drainage performance. When cutting cuttings, they should be separated by plants and cut into about 5 centimeters of soil.

Finally, after the cuttage management, first watering, and then cover strict film. This is done every morning. The temperature of the management should be kept warm and constant. In terms of watering, enough water should be handed over in the initial period, and a large amount of water can be watered. After it takes root, it should be ventilated once in the morning and evening. Wait until the cuttings grow to a certain size before transplanting.

The amount of water should be reduced after transplanting, and when transplanting into the pot or field, a large amount of water should be watered, watered enough and sunshaded.

In or first transplant the cuttings into the nutrition bowl, hand in enough water, cover the film, pay attention to shade and moisturizing, ventilation in the morning and evening, wait until about 10 days to open the film to bask in the sun. And then transplant it into a big field or pot soil.

Well, in this way your cherry blossoms can be cut and propagated, and it will also bring more offspring to your cherry blossoms. The editor will tell you this today, and you must do it according to the requirements.

How to improve the cuttage survival rate of red-leaf cherry blossoms Red-leaf cherry blossoms are a variety of magnificent cherry blossoms, belonging to the rose family, with purplish red leaves, small deciduous trees, large pink flowers, dark red leaves in early spring, bright red leaves in May-July, dark purple after old leaves, and orange-red leaves in frost season in late autumn. Cherry blossoms are famous flowers and trees. Red-leaf cherry blossoms can watch not only flowers but also leaves. It is a valuable ornamental color-leaf tree species to replace purple-leaf dwarf cherry and red-leaf plum in landscape architecture and urban greening. It is widely planted in North China, East China, South China, Central Plains, Northeast and Northwest China.

Technical Department of Hangzhou Xiaoshan Luyuan Seedling Distribution Co., Ltd. Answer: the most effective method for rapid breeding of red leaf cherry blossoms is to use grafting culture technology. If larger mountain cherry trees, hairy cherry trees and cherry trees are used for panicle grafting or bud grafting, only after two to three years of cultivation, it can be formed and achieve a better landscape effect. The grafting time of red leaf cherry blossoms has different requirements according to the different methods used. In general, the scion method is used, and the best time in the south of the Yangtze River basin is from December of each year to February of the following year. The following is a brief introduction to the grafting technique. 1. Grafting material preparation (1) the plastic sheet with suitable thickness and strong elasticity (which can gradually shrink and recover after stretching) is selected. After rolling more than ten layers, the plastic sheet is cut into strips with a width of 0.8 cm to the left, and then cut into a small section of about 10 cm after cutting. Tie it into small handfuls. (2) other supplies ① wet cloth: used to cover, transport and store scions for a short time. ② jar: used for temporary storage of scions during grafting to avoid loss of water. two。 Scion material preparation (1) scion collection scion should choose the current year strips with pure variety, strong growth, bright color and disease-free operation. The best time for collection is early morning. When cutting the ear, the cut should be smooth, and do not hurt the ear skin. Pick the scion, and then wrap it with a wet cloth. Care should be taken to avoid scratches and scratches on the scion during binding and transportation. (2) scion preservation ① put the scion bundled into a handle upward and put it in a woven bag, tie the rope in the bag and hang it in the well, first dip the base of the scion in water, and then lift it out of the water, which can be stored for about a week. ② dug a hole in the shade, long and wide enough to fit into the scion, buried in wet soil, shaded with weeds, or stored for a week or so. When there are few ③ scions, you can also use a washbasin to hold half a basin of water, soak the base of the scion in water and store it in a cool place. Change the water once a day or two, and it can be stored for several days. 3. Bud grafting (1) select the full fresh bud in the middle of the scion, cut a knife from 0.5 cm above the bud (roll less than half a circle with the scion in place when cutting) to the xylem, then tilt upward from about 0.8 cm below the bud, and gradually deepen the xylem cutting. cut into the upper transverse cut of the bud and stop the knife (no grip is too heavy during operation to avoid injury and other buds). Gently pinch both sides of the bud with your thumb and index finger, slowly break off the skin of the bud, and do not pinch the bud. The removed buds are shield-shaped, about 1.2 to 1.5 cm long and 0.5 to 0.7 cm wide. Two points can be seen obviously on the inside of the bud, the lower part is the petiole growth point, and the upper part is the bud growth point. Where the bud growth point becomes black, brown, yellow or shedding scratches, can not be used. (2) rootstock: if a large size plant is used as a rootstock, it should be trimmed as a whole according to the forming requirements before grafting, and the trimming incision should be tripped with film to prevent water evaporation. After pruning treatment, the grafting interface should be selected according to the actual needs, and then the specific operation of grafting should be carried out. The specific steps are as follows: the first step is to cut across the smooth and jointless place 10 to 15 cm below the trimming mouth (the blade rolls less than half a circle). The degree is to cut through the skin layer without harming the xylem. Then cut 1.5 cm longitudinally from the horizontal incision (slightly longer than the bud), and the depth is the same as the horizontal knife edge, so that it is T-shaped. Then use the knife along the longitudinal incision left and right twist to pry open the cortex. The second step is to pry open the cortex with the knife, hold the buds in the left hand, gently press down the rootstock and insert the buds with the knife. When inserting buds, do not rub on the rootstock to protect the growth point and make the upper plane of the buds closely coincide with the upper plane of the nail mouth of the sleeper. The third step is to finish the grafting, that is, wrap it with plastic strips. The first requirement is to bind tightly so that the buds are closely combined with the rootstock, leaving no space. Second, the T-shaped mouth should be strictly wrapped and not exposed, which can not only prevent water evaporation and facilitate the survival of the buds, but also prevent pests from laying eggs in the wound, and the larvae will be eaten after hatching, resulting in the death of the buds. Third, be fast, which is the key to the survival of grafting. The exposure time of bud grafting should be reduced as much as possible, the operation technique should be skillful and the grafting speed should be improved. When the binding strip, hold one end of the binding bar with your left hand, wind it two or three times from the upper end of the T-shaped mouth, wrap the lower incision, and then spiral up to make the upper and lower layers worse, and then pull the two ends of the binding strip upward and then cross and tie the knot. The advantage of this method is that it can prevent Rain Water from entering and cause rotten bud, and it can also be combined with anvil shear to cut the binding joint, which does not need to be specially unbound and saves time and labor.