Preparation for single bud cuttings of rose

There are also many varieties of rose, and if it is a new variety, there will be less materials for cuttings, so we can choose to use single-bud cuttage to propagate for rose. The editor will introduce to you the preparatory work before cutting and propagation of single buds of rose.

Chinese rose

1. Branch selection: choose sturdy semi-lignified branches without diseases and insect pests. For flowering branches, it is better for axillary buds not to germinate a few days after flower shedding, and it is generally not suitable to use aged branches for heading.

2. Cutting off: at the upper end of the axillary bud 3mm, cut off along the direction of 45 degrees. Each cuttage has a bud and a petiole. There are only two leaflets left on the petiole and the remaining leaves are removed.

3. Matrix selection and treatment: the ideal substrates are coarse yellow sand and cinder. Yellow sand should be washed with clean water to remove ash powder, and it is best to disinfect it with fungicides; cinder is generally over 5 to 20 sieves, the grain should not be too large, and ash powder should also be removed.

Single bud cuttage technique of rose single bud cutting means that there is only one latent bud on a section of cuttings. Because the cuttings are short in tissue and have little nutrients and water stored in the body, the operation should be careful and can only be cut with a sharp knife, not with branch scissors. Application tools need to be disinfected, sterilized and insecticidal. The soil is fully dried, or at high temperature, or sterilized with insecticides and fungicides. This method is often used for insufficient number of cuttings or the introduction of varieties or new varieties to speed up reproduction. 1. Cutting and pruning cuttings: according to a pinnate compound leaf and a latent bud, the semi-lignified branch is cut into a section 13 cm down at the leaf base mark, and the part of the leaf upward stem can be long or short according to the actual situation. When cutting, hold the branch in hand, hold the tool in one hand, cut it horizontally or obliquely in the selected position, and never put one side on the board or other object and press it with the tool. When finished, cut off the small leaves with branch scissors or leaf scissors, soak them in a 1000-fold solution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder for about 1 minute, and then cut them. Second, cutting substrate: choose sandy loam, fine sandy soil or construction sand, or add 3095 ^ 50% vermiculite, mix it evenly and fill it into the seedling bed, or flowerpot, or shallow wooden box, or seedling shallow medium, compacted and scraped flat, poured through water. Use tools such as sticks, bamboo sticks or metal bars with a diameter greater than the diameter of the cuttings to pierce holes vertically on the soil surface. L is about W cm deep, put the base of the cuttings into the hole, the latent bud and leaf axis base and the soil surface are basically horizontal or slightly deeper, but should not be too deep, compacted around the base. The plant row spacing is based on the fact that the leaves do not overlap and do not affect each other. After the cuttage is finished, spray with a fine hole sprinkler. When cutting in containers, the soaking method can also be selected to make the soil soaked. 40% shade, 50% shade. At the beginning, the water was sprayed 4 or 5 times a day, and stopped at night. The natural temperature during the day is 24 ~ 28 °C, and it can take root in 20 ~ 30 days. After rooting, gradually remove the shade, open windows to increase ventilation, when most cuttings latent buds sprout and grow new branches, dig seedlings or take off the pot to plant. Other reference greenhouse cuttage propagation. Experience sharing of single Bud cutting of Rose

In a certain treasure tried to buy two rose toothpick seedlings, soon, the first flower, looks good, regret buying less ah, so want to try their own cutting propagation, because it is a two-month seedling, there are no branches for me to cut ah, hard-hearted cut a flowering branch, very short, ah, so it is divided into five segments, each section has a bud. The Internet temporarily mended the cutting methods of all kinds of gods, vermiculite, all kinds of high-grade soil, nothing, only the garden soil dug by the roadside in front of the door, which was very sticky, so I thought of the soil method of laying river sand at the bottom of the cutting box, so that the upper garden soil could retain water, and the lower river sand could be breathable.

When all kinds of materials are ready, start cutting:

After plugging in, water thoroughly, put in a cool and ventilated place, water every night, and the rest is to wait patiently. Three weeks later, it sprouts.

To the full moon, gently pull out the branches, unable to pull out means that it has grown roots, ready to pot, the root system is very good, 5 live 4.

It's the same with the worst root system.

In fact, it was supposed to be alive, but it was cheap. One of them was pulled out and looked at it three times. Although it also took root, it turned out to be a black pole at last. This is what it looks like two weeks after the basin has been moved. after the basin is moved, it is directly exposed to the sun, because it is planted in the soil, and it is too lazy to slow down the seedlings.

The new branch is very strong, and the advantage of single-bud cutting is obvious. In addition to producing more seedlings in a short period of time, all the nutrients are given to this bud point for development, and it is also very convenient to prune something later. As it is the first month of planting and the first time of cutting, only one variety of Balzac has been tested, and there is no conditional test for the long roots of each variety, so you might as well give it a try.