Key points of maintenance and management of paulownia

The ornamental effect of Dayantong is better, and many flower friends will buy it from the market and keep it at home. Paulownia has a certain ability to resist drought, the growth requires high air humidity, and the environment needs to be kept dry during the winter dormant period. Artificial cultivation of paulownia should pay attention to the following points.

Paulownia grandiflora

1. Suitable temperature

The optimum temperature for the growth of paulownia was 18 ℃ 22 ℃ from January to October and 10 ℃ from October to January of the following year. During the dormant period in winter, the basin soil should be kept slightly drier, if the temperature is lower than 8 ℃ and the air humidity is large, it will cause tuber rot.

2. Proper shading

Paulownia is a semi-positive plant and likes semi-shady environment. Therefore, attention should be paid to avoid strong sunlight during the growth period, and the environment should not be too dry. In summer, high temperature and humidity is disadvantageous to plant growth, so it needs proper shade and should be placed in a place with scattered light and good ventilation under the shade shed, otherwise it is easy to cause leaf wilting. The water supply should be watered twice a day according to the degree of dryness and wetness of the flowerpot.

3. Proper fertilization

Paulownia prefers fertilizer and requires fertile, loose and well-drained humus-rich soil. Thin cake fertilizer and water should be applied every 15 days from leaf extension to pre-flowering. When the flower bud is formed, it is necessary to apply bone powder or superphosphate once.

4. Soil

Potted paulownia is commonly used as a mixed substrate of rotten leaf soil, coarse sand and vermiculite.

The key point for the maintenance of paulownia is Dayantong, also known as snow mud. The plant is short in shape. Whether it is high or not. Yemao emerald green, the leaves are thick and large, densely fluffy. A bell-shaped Corolla with large and gorgeous flowers. Rich in color and long-lasting florescence, it is a famous indoor excellent potted flower appreciation product in summer. It should not be too deep to be planted. Generally, the seedlings to be sown should be planted in a small basin when they have 4 or 5 true leaves, and the planting depth should be that the tip bud of the tuber is flush with the soil surface. If it is too deep, the tuber is easy to rot or grow poorly. After planting, put it at a higher room temperature (about 20 ℃). After slowing down the seedlings, they began to apply dilute liquid fertilizer. During the growth period, thin fertilizer is usually applied once every 7 to 10 days. The key point in the early stage of growth is to promote leaf growth, and it is appropriate to apply liquid fertilizer with more nitrogen; in the later stage of growth, the key point is to promote flowering, and liquid fertilizer with more phosphorus should be applied. Paulownia is a perennial succulent herb with hypertrophic tubers. Therefore, watering must pay attention to a uniform amount, not too or too wet, the water temperature can not be hot and cold. Pot soil is too poor plant growth, leaves yellowing; basin soil is too wet, not only easy to cause overgrowth, flower stem drooping, not flowering or bud withering, but also easy to occur crown rot because of long-term stagnant water in basin soil. No matter watering or fertilizing, do not stain the leaves or buds with fertilizer and water, because there are villi on the flowers and leaves, and once they are stained with water, they are very perishable. Water should be often sprinkled on the ground during the growing season to increase air humidity. If the indoor is too dry, the leaves are easy to yellowing, affecting the ornamental. Paulownia is a semi-shady flower, the sun is getting stronger after the end of spring, it needs proper shade at noon; in summer, it is moved to the place where there is a little sunshine indoors, pay attention to proper ventilation, but can not make the air convection, maintain high indoor air humidity, and pay attention to lowering the temperature, it can prevent it from dormancy. If the temperature exceeds 30 degrees, the plant goes into dormancy or semi-dormancy. The light should be slightly stronger after flowering to facilitate seed maturity and tuber development. The flowering period can be prolonged when the temperature gradually decreases to about 15 ℃. After flower fade, pedicels are cut off in time for those who are not prepared to leave seeds to prevent nutrient consumption, so as to facilitate continued flowering and tuber growth. When the leaves wither and enter the dormancy period after winter, you can put the flowerpot in the indoor shade and dry place to let it dormancy, or knock the tuber out of the basin and bury it in the basin containing f sand to prevent moisture from causing rot. The room temperature should be kept above 0 degrees in winter, fertilization should be stopped and watering should be controlled during overwintering. Tubers can be cultivated continuously for 7-8 years. Attention should be paid to the renewal of old tubers. Key points for maintenance and matters needing attention of Tripterygium paniculata

When I first heard the name, I thought it was a woody plant like sycamore, but when I saw the real thing, I found it was so small and lovely, also known as snow mud. The plant is short in shape. Whether it is high or not. Yemao emerald green, the leaves are thick and large, densely fluffy. A bell-shaped Corolla with large and gorgeous flowers. Rich in color and long-lasting florescence, it is a famous indoor excellent potted flower appreciation product in summer.

It should not be too deep to be planted. Generally, the seedlings to be sown should be planted in a small basin when they have 4 or 5 true leaves, and the planting depth should be that the tip bud of the tuber is flush with the soil surface. If it is too deep, the tuber is easy to rot or grow poorly.

After planting, put it at a higher room temperature (about 20 ℃). After slowing down the seedlings, they began to apply dilute liquid fertilizer. During the growth period, thin fertilizer is usually applied once every 7 to 10 days. The key point in the early stage of growth is to promote leaf growth, and it is appropriate to apply liquid fertilizer with more nitrogen; in the later stage of growth, the key point is to promote flowering, and liquid fertilizer with more phosphorus should be applied. Paulownia is a perennial succulent herb with hypertrophic tubers. Therefore, watering must pay attention to a uniform amount, not too or too wet, the water temperature can not be hot and cold.

Pot soil is too poor plant growth, leaves yellowing; basin soil is too wet, not only easy to cause overgrowth, flower stem drooping, not flowering or bud withering, but also easy to occur crown rot because of long-term stagnant water in basin soil. No matter watering or fertilizing, do not stain the leaves or buds with fertilizer and water, because there are villi on the flowers and leaves, and once they are stained with water, they are very perishable. Water should be often sprinkled on the ground during the growing season to increase air humidity.

If the indoor is too dry, the leaves are easy to yellowing, affecting the ornamental. Paulownia is a semi-shady flower, the sun is getting stronger after the end of spring, it needs proper shade at noon; in summer, it is moved to the place where there is a little sunshine indoors, pay attention to proper ventilation, but can not make the air convection, maintain high indoor air humidity, and pay attention to lowering the temperature, it can prevent it from dormancy. If the temperature exceeds 30 degrees, the plant goes into dormancy or semi-dormancy.

The light should be slightly stronger after flowering to facilitate seed maturity and tuber development. The flowering period can be prolonged when the temperature gradually decreases to about 15 ℃. After flower fade, pedicels are cut off in time for those who are not prepared to leave seeds to prevent nutrient consumption, so as to facilitate continued flowering and tuber growth.

When the leaves wither and enter the dormancy period after winter, you can put the flowerpot in the indoor shade and dry place to let it dormancy, or knock the tuber out of the basin and bury it in the basin containing f sand to prevent moisture from causing rot. The room temperature should be kept above 0 degrees in winter, fertilization should be stopped and watering should be controlled during overwintering. Tubers can be cultivated continuously for 7-8 years. Attention should be paid to the renewal of old tubers.