Introduction to single Bud Cuttage of Ivy

The cultivation of ivy is not difficult, and the ivy is evergreen all the year round, very beautiful, and it is not difficult to breed. What I would like to introduce to you here is the single-bud cutting method of ivy, which is a way to cultivate ivy quickly.

Ivy

There is a dormant bud between the leaf and stem of ivy. The method of single bud cutting is to let this bud in the plant germinate and grow into a new plant. Cut off the part between the ivy leaf and the stem with a sharp knife, about 2 cm long, retain the leaves, and then cut them on a wet sandy seedling bed (the seedling bed should be built in a greenhouse or arch shed). As it is a tender wood cutting, be careful not to hurt the cuttings when inserting, you can use a thin stick to punch holes in the seedbed first, the cutting depth is 1.5 cm. After planting, it is necessary to ensure that the seedbed is moist, and the relative humidity of the air is about 90%, so that it can see more light as far as possible (if you cut in September, you can see light all day). About half a month, the cuttings can take root, at this time, you can spray some low-toxic fungicides, and then enter the normal management. Generally speaking, the cuttings can reach a length of 20 to 30 centimeters after 2 months.

Single Bud cutting of Ivy

Cutting with a branch with only one bud is called single-bud cutting, or single-bud cutting for short. Single bud insertion saves material, cuttings are very short, usually less than 5 cm. When cutting cuttings for breeding ivy, the cut slope is opposite to the bud, and the cuttings are 3-5 cm long, preferably with a complete leaf. Because the cuttings are short and the incision is large, the wound is smeared with newly burned plant ash or sulfur powder after cutting off to prevent bleeding and bacteria infection. When cutting, first stick or bamboo stick of corresponding diameter is used to pierce the hole, and the cuttings are compacted by hand all around after placing the cuttings in the hole. After cutting, special attention should be paid to spraying water, moisturizing, shading and preventing wind, so as to avoid the influence of water loss on cuttings' survival.

Flower cuttage propagation

Flower cuttage propagation

Cutting propagation is not only a commonly used propagation method in flower cultivation, but also a kind of vegetative propagation. It is a method to cut the roots, branches, buds and leaves of flowers and insert them into the culture medium to make them take root and sprout and form new plants. The decision on which part to cut is based on the regeneration ability of different organs of various flowers and plants.

1. Cutting classification

According to the different organs, cuttings can be divided into three types: branch cutting, root cutting and leaf cutting.

(1) branch cuttings. Also known as stem insertion. It is a widely used method that can propagate a large number of seedlings. This method is simple to operate, suitable for cutting branches can not be too hard nor too tender, too hard is not easy to root, too tender and easy to rot. Herbaceous flowers can choose new shoots or twigs that are stretching. Woody flowers should choose annual branches whose epidermis are just beginning to turn brown and have the best flexibility.

On the same plant, the sunny branches in the middle and upper parts of the year should be selected, and the short internodes, stout branches and leaves and full bud tips are the most suitable cuttings. The branches that are about to bloom and the overgrown branches are not suitable for cuttings. On the same branch, the hard branch is suitable to choose the middle and lower branches, while the chrysanthemum and so on are suitable to choose the tender head. The mother plant of cuttings should be healthy and free from diseases and insect pests.

According to the Lignification degree of branches in cuttings, flowers can be divided into hardwood cuttings, softwood cuttings and single bud cuttings.

① hardwood cuttings. Flowers such as Yingchun, hibiscus, hibiscus, crape myrtle, oleander, gardenia and other flowers are suitable to use this method to propagate.

This method is suitable for flowers when they are dormant. For example, before deciduous flowers and trees sprout after deciduous leaves, evergreen flowers and trees stop growing until the sap flows in spring.

In the north, after the winter flowers have fallen leaves, the branches of the same year are cut to grow by 20cm to 30cm, tied up in bundles and buried in wet sand over the winter, and the cuttings are taken out in the spring of the following year. Cuttings can also be cut in combination with pruning before sprouting in spring. The cuttings should have at least 2-3 buds, the cut should be smooth, the upper end should be cut into a horizontal plane, and the lower end should be cut into a bevel. After planting, the cuttings should be sprayed, watered and shaded, and the temperature should be kept at 20 ℃ ~ 25 ℃.

② semi-hard cuttings. After growing rapidly in summer, the semi-lignified branches of the same year were cut off and cut into cuttings with 2 / 3 nodes and about 6 / 10 cm in length. All the leaves in the lower part of the cuttings were removed, leaving only 2 leaves at the top. The depth of insertion into the substrate is 1 inch, 3 nodes, 1 blade, 2 cuttings. This method is often used by some evergreen broad-leaved plants, such as camellias, big-leaf boxwood and so on.

③ tender wood cuttings. Also known as soft wood cuttings. For example, rhododendron, camellia, sweet-scented osmanthus, rose, plum blossom, jasmine, rose, Phyllostachys pubescens, green apple, ivy and other flowers and chrysanthemums, geraniums, dahlias, a bunch of red and other grass flowers, can use this method. Generally speaking, it can be carried out when the new shoots or branches of the plant enter into semi-maturity, and the time of cutting is mostly in summer and autumn. The length of the cuttings is about 5-10 cm, leaving 2-4 leaves at the top of the cuttings, and the cut at the lower end of the cuttings should be cut under the nodes, so that the plant can take root easily. Use the sand or vermiculite cleaned after disinfection as the cutting substrate, and then insert the cuttings into the substrate, about 1 / 3 of the length of the cuttings, and then spray, water, shade and control the temperature as hard cuttings do to ensure the cuttings take root successfully.

④ single bud cuttage. This method is to leave only one bud on the cuttings. Take the bud as the center, leave 1 cm to 2 cm at each end, and slightly cut off the cortex on the opposite side of the bud. Insert the cuttings into the bed and the buds are slightly submerged in the soil (to avoid direct sunlight). Watering after insertion, and finally protected by thin film, this method can save materials. Such as camellia, sweet-scented osmanthus, rubber trees and other flowers and trees can use this method. Special attention should be paid to water spraying, shading and wind prevention after insertion, so as not to lose water and affect the survival of cuttings.

(2) Root insertion. The root segment is used as the cutting method of cuttings. Cut the root with a diameter of 0.3 cm to 1.5 cm, cut it into 5 cm and 15 cm long, cut it flat at the upper mouth and oblique cut at the lower mouth, and cut it directly into the substrate. Adventitious roots and buds occur after cutting. Suitable for root planting plants and flowers are broom, elm, crape myrtle, wax plum, lobular privet, red leaf plum, Chinese wolfberry, Lingxiao, acacia, begonia, plum blossom and June snow. Because the anti-drying and anti-freezing ability of the root is relatively weak, it is necessary to cover the basin with a thin film to moisturize after insertion. The best time for root insertion is late autumn and early winter or early spring, especially from March to April in spring, and the survival rate is the highest.

(3) Leaf cutting. Leaf cuttings are only used in succulent flowers. Most of the flowers that can use leaf cuttage have thick leaves, but flowers with thick leaves may not be able to do so. Therefore, leaf insertion is limited to a few families, such as large rock tree and some begonia with larger leaves can use leaf insertion. The leaves as cuttings must wait for their growth and fullness before they are taken off.

When inserting leaves, first prepare a small flowerpot with a larger caliber than the leaves to be inserted, install the culture soil, compact the soil, and the soil surface is 1-1.5 cm away from the edge of the basin, and then pour enough water to make the pot soil drenched. Choose a mature, robust and pest-free leaf on the mother plant, which is not too old, otherwise it is not easy to take root. Cut the leaf from the base of the petiole with a sharp knife, and then cut off the petiole. The leaves are placed flat on the substrate or shallowly buried in the substrate, such as windmill, magic knife, thick-leaf grass, East Beauty, brown spot blue, cornstone and weak Rhodiola. On the other hand, it is necessary to insert the leaves into the matrix for the roots of the genera, the 12-roll genus, Douban green species, as well as a few species of the genera Liriodendron, lotus palm and green lock dragon.

Then put it in a cool place, do not water at this time, otherwise the leaves may rot, wait until there are small roots to replenish water.

2. Suitable culture medium

The substrate suitable for rooting of cuttings should be suitable soil temperature, loose and aerated soil, no immature organic matter, no salt, and good water retention.

The commonly used culture substrates are river sand, vermiculite, perlite, plain sandy soil, rice bran ash and sawdust. No matter which kind of matrix should ensure that the matrix is clean, the particle size is medium and uniform, and the matrix in the bed is generally not too thick, otherwise it is not conducive to the improvement of matrix temperature and affect rooting.

3. Suitable cutting season and temperature and humidity environment

It is usually suitable for cutting in the early and middle stages of plant growth, and it is best not to cut in dormant and semi-dormant periods. It is not suitable for cutting in the later stage of growth, although cutting can take root, it is very difficult to grow after transplanting and transplanting.

Generally, the winter dormant flowers are most suitable for cutting from the middle of April to the first ten days of June, and the summer dormant species are best cut from late September to early October. In the middle of summer, some species of snake whip, remnant snow and Wolong have better cutting. Cuttage propagation is carried out in summer, there is less mold, the wound is easy to dry, and infection rarely occurs. During the period of plum rain in the south of the Yangtze River, the humidity is relatively high and it is easy to produce bacteria, so it is best not to cuttage, but the cuttings grow fast, the cuttings are small, and they like higher air humidity, so they can be cuttings. In order to prevent diseases and insect pests, fungicides should also be sprayed on the substrate and cuttings.

Most flowers are suitable for rooting at 20 ℃ ~ 25 ℃. Tropical flowers require more than 25 ℃ ~ 30 ℃. Generally, the soil temperature is 3 ℃ ~ 5 ℃ higher than the air temperature. The relative humidity of the bed air is 80%-90%, which is beneficial to rooting. Soft wood cuttings require about 30% light. Moderate moisture, cutting initial moisture can be slightly larger, wait until the later period of moisture is not too much, a little dry some can.

4. How to promote the rooting of plants that are difficult to take root

For example, Milan, crape myrtle, honeysuckle, wax plum, sweet-scented osmanthus, camellia, rhododendron, magnolia and other flowers and trees are not easy to take root, you can use some simple methods to promote them to take root.

The main results are as follows: (1) auxins such as naphthylacetic acid, which promote root growth, can be used for treatment.

(2) soak the base of the cuttings in 0.1%-0.5% potassium permanganate aqueous solution about 2 cm deep, soak for 12-14 hours and cut them immediately.

(3) White sugar solution can be used. Grass flower cuttings use a white sugar solution with a concentration of about 2% to 5%, and woody flowers use a white sugar solution with a concentration of about 5% to 10%. Soak the cuttings base 2 cm in the above solution for about 24 hours, then remove them, rinse the sugar solution with clean water and then cut.

(3) after diluting with the injection of medical vitamin B12 and twice the cold boiled water, put the base of the cuttings into it and soak for about 5 minutes before taking out the cuttings.

(4) at the base of the branch used as cuttings, cutting or girdling was carried out about 15-30 days before cutting to prevent the nutrients from the upper part of the branches from being transported downwards, but stayed in the branches, and rooting could be promoted after cutting.