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Cultivation Environment and Conservation points of Camellia

Published: 2024-11-05 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/05, Camellia is a variety of flowers that many flower friends like very much, because there are many varieties of camellia, and the flowers are colorful, and the petals are mostly double petals, so they are very popular. Many flower friends choose to plant camellias at home, but many flower friends can't grow beautiful camellias.

Camellia is a flower variety that many flower friends like very much. Because there are many varieties of camellia, and the colors are gorgeous and colorful, the petals are mostly double petals, so they are deeply loved by people. There are many flower friends who choose to plant camellias at home, but there are many flower friends who can't grow beautiful camellias, so what problems should camellias pay attention to when potted?

Camellia (details)

1. Soil is the growth basis of potted camellia, because the root system of camellia depends on soil growth and development, and the water and nutrients needed for camellia life activities are mainly absorbed from the soil. Camellias prefer acidic, high humus, loose and aerated mountain red (yellow) loam with a pH value of 5 to 6. 5, alkaline soil or heavy clayey soil should not be used as potted camellia substrate. Soil preparation: mountain soil (mature red soil of crops) 50%, sawdust or edible fungus residue 40%, cake fertilizer powder or livestock manure and phosphorus fertilizer powder 10%, mix well, water appropriate amount bag ripening, summer and autumn more than 20 days, spring and winter more than 30 days, this kind of soil is not only loose and aerated, but also can preserve fertilizer and water, which is suitable for the growth and development of camellias.

2. Camellias need proper light, but they are afraid of direct sunlight. At the end of spring and autumn, camellias should be moved to the balcony or the ground where there is much light, and receive all-day light to promote plant growth and development, flower bud differentiation and strong buds. When the sun is strongest in summer, you should move the flowerpot to a sunlit and well-ventilated environment for maintenance, or you can move it to the north balcony or the lower part of the south balcony. 75% sunshade net can also be used to cover the plants from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. to avoid direct sunlight, causing foliar trauma or small plant withering, and the camellia can be moved safely under the balcony for summer.

3. Temperature is one of the important conditions for the growth of camellia. Camellia likes warmth, and the most suitable temperature for growth is 18 ℃ to 25 ℃, and the relative humidity is 60 to 65%. For the growth of camellias, spring shoots generally sprout in mid-late March, begin to sprout in April, form terminal buds in mid-late May, stop growing, and gradually differentiate into leaf buds or flower buds. It takes 180 to 240 days from flower bud formation to flowering. Summer shoots germinate in late July and stop growing in early September. Although Camellia is resistant to low temperature, when the cold wave invades, the air temperature suddenly drops below 0 ℃ or encounters a dry northwest gale, it will cause twig frost injury, and the flower bud will wither when it is frozen. For this reason, the flowerpot will be moved to the north to the south to maintain it safely through the winter.

Camellia (details)

4. Camellia has many leaves, large leaf area and fast transpiration. Camellia likes humid climate and moist soil as well. Therefore, it is necessary to replenish water to potted camellias, watering once a day in the spring and autumn growing season, once in the morning and evening in summer, especially in the "dog days", and watering or spraying the ground and the periphery of the flowerpot once or twice if the ground is dry, maintain a certain amount of air humidity, and the plant will grow luxuriantly. At the same time, pay attention to because there is a lot of watering, and most families are watering tap water, the soil of flowerpots will be alkalized for a long time. For this reason, when watering, make up 0 per month. 5% to 1% ferrous sulfate, or 5% to 8% edible vinegar, can be sprayed on the leaves. Camellias like moist soil, but are afraid of stagnant water in the flowerpots. If there is stagnant water in the pots on rainy days, they must be removed in time to prevent the roots from suffocating and rotting in the water.

5. Camellia is a fertilizer-loving flower, because the tree is strong, there are more leaves, and the flowering period is longer, so it needs more fertilizer. In the process of fertilization, apply sufficient liquid fertilizer, combined with changing pots, apply 3 to 80 grams of rotten cooked cake fertilizer powder or sun-dried chicken and duck manure in each pot according to the size of the flowerpot, and mix well with the bottom soil. Increase the application of organic fertilizer according to the growth period of the plant. Except when it is the coldest and hottest in winter and summer, the rotten dry cake water is applied once or twice a month. The fertilization method is as follows: peel off the basin edge soil for about 2 minutes, and apply liquid fertilizer into the ditch to cover the ready-to-use soil to avoid odor. The rotten cake powder can also be applied on the edge of the basin and mixed well with the basin soil to allow the flowers to be absorbed slowly. Urban flower lovers can go to the flower market to buy special fertilizer for flowers, which is both hygienic and safe. In order to make camellias grow better, during the peak period of camellia peanuts, extra-root fertilization was carried out once or twice a month, and leaves were sprayed with 0.2% to 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 1% to 2% plant auxin. The principle of fertilization: light rather than heavy, light rather than thick, less and not more. We must adhere to the method of applying thin fertilizer frequently, especially not applying raw fertilizer.

6. Camellia likes to grow in an environment with moderate flow of air, and likes the breeze most. It likes the water vapor brought by the southeast wind, but it is afraid of the northwest wind and strong wind, which makes the water evaporate too fast, the supply and demand of camellia is out of balance, and the plant leaves are easy to be damaged. causing the plant to drop buds and flowers. In winter, camellias should be maintained in a sheltered and sunny environment with a certain temperature and humidity. In spring and autumn, the flowerpot should be moved to the balcony to make it ventilated and shaken by the breeze, which is not only good for plant growth, but also conducive to flower bud differentiation, flower bud growth and development, but also reduce the occurrence of diseases and insect pests. Years of practice shows that moderate ventilation and suitable light can play a role in preventing diseases and insect pests.

Introduction and maintenance of Camellia

Camellia (Camellia, Lonicera, Toona sinensis)

Scientific name: Camellia japonica

Also known as: mandarin tree, serval spring, mountain toon, Nudong, camellia, late camellia, camellia, foreign tea

Families and genera: Theaceae, Camellia

Distribution: China's Yangtze River Basin and southwest, Japan and the Korean Peninsula also have. World-famous flowers and trees, one of the top ten famous flowers in China.

Key points of conservation: evergreen shrubs or small trees. Potted with rotten leaf soil or peat soil in the north, the country of origin is often planted in the open field. Irrigate with soft water and apply liquid fertilizer once every 2-3 weeks during the growing period. Like the semi-overcast and humid environment, North China moved to outdoor shade cultivation in summer, shading 30% to 50%. In the north, the pot is changed once every 2-3 years, and it can withstand 2-4 ℃ low temperature when overwintering in the cold room. There are thousands of cultivated varieties.

They also belong to common cultivated varieties: Yunnan camellia C.reticulata, Camellia C.sasanqua and Golden scented tea C.chrysantha.

Garden value: camellia is shady and grows best on the edge of sparse forest; the rockery can be planted beside the rockery; three or five trees scattered near the pavilion are particularly elegant; if you open a camellia garden, the flowers will be as beautiful as brocade; in the courtyard, several plants can be scattered in a corner of the courtyard wall, naturally and unrestrained; if you choose rhododendron and magnolia, the flowers will be red and bright. Forest parks can also be planted along the edge of the forest or some sexually healthy varieties can be planted along the edge of the forest, which can give a lot of color to the mountain forest when it blossoms. Camellia suitable for potted viewing, placed in the foyer population, conference rooms, public places can achieve good results; planted in the balcony of the family, in front of the window, full of spring.

Propagation: cuttings, striping and grafting.

Light: need light, slightly resistant to overcast (semi-overcast).

Moisture: growing in moist soil.

Temperature: strong cold resistance, able to withstand low temperature below-10 ℃.

Relative humidity: medium relative humidity, 50% to 60%.

Maintenance and Management methods of domestic potted Camellia

Maintenance and Management methods of domestic potted Camellia

Fertilization at the initial stage of germination of Yijie

Nitrogen fertilizer should be applied during the period of branch and leaf expansion in spring, which is the habit and practice of a considerable number of camellia lovers. It is considered that this can provide sufficient nutrition for camellias and the vegetative growth of camellias can be exuberant. Those who hold this view do not mean that the application of nitrogen fertilizer is wrong, but that the timing of fertilization is not right. In fact, the right time to apply fertilizer should be when the florescence of camellias is coming to an end, and the new buds have not yet sprouted. Because flowering consumes most of the nutrients of the plant, the germination of new buds requires the accumulation of certain nutrients, and the new roots are waiting to grow, so it is the right time to apply fertilizer. It not only complements the consumption of flowering, but also provides a guarantee for the germination and growth of new buds; there is also a more important point that camellias generally do not dormancy after anthesis, and some varieties sprout leaves directly after anthesis. Therefore, it is more appropriate to use the phrase "sending charcoal in the snow" to describe fertilization at this time. It is not suitable to apply fertilizer at the initial stage of germination, because the young fleshy fibrous roots that have just grown are difficult to bear even the watering of light fertilizers, not to mention that it is difficult to correctly master the concentration of fertilization without experience, and it is easy to burn roots without paying attention. The good wish to replenish fertilizer to the plant was counterproductive because of the wrong timing of fertilization. Therefore, the timing of fertilization should be grasped during the sprouting period in spring so that the plant can grow normally.

Applying concentrated fertilizer during the leaf spreading period of Erjie

The application of concentrated fertilizer during leaf expansion is inappropriate with the initial fertilization mentioned above, which seems to be a contradiction, but it is not. There are two main meanings here: one is that the blooming period of camellias in spring is coming to an end, and after the new buds have not sprouted, it is best to apply fertilizer again for a period of time after the new leaves are unfolded, generally at 10-15 days. Specifically, apply nitrogen-based fertilizer one or two times before the new leaves are capped. The concentration should be light when applied. Return water the next day after application. No more nitrogen fertilizer can be applied after May. The purpose of this fertilization is to accelerate the ripening of new leaves and prepare for the next stage of bud gestation. Second, it is better to apply plant fertilizer before and after germination, such as vegetable cake, bean cake, peanut cake, etc., which not only contains a lot of nitrogen, but also contains a certain amount of phosphorus, what is more valuable is that the pH value is below 6 or 6, which belongs to acid fertilizer. During dry application, fertilizer can be volatilized slowly, while water application is a quick-acting fertilizer, which can be used not only as base fertilizer, but also as topdressing fertilizer. Plant fertilizer is mild and suitable for camellias which are not tolerant to fertilizer. The application of "thick fertilizer" is the most taboo during leaf expansion. Especially feces from home, such as pigeons, chickens, ducks and so on. These fertilizers are highly fertile, and camellias are prone to fertilizer damage after application. This is especially true during leaf expansion. The symptoms of fertilizer injury are new leaf tip blackening, folds, oil shining, spots, spots (spots, spots are actually fat injuries caused by thick fertilizer on new leaves), the degree of expansion is small, it is difficult to stretch. In particular, the blackening of leaf tip, spots and stripes on new leaves are the primary basis for the diagnosis of fertilizer damage. The phenomenon occurs on the leaves, but it is actually rooted in the roots. This is specially responsible for the absorption of the new hair root burn, the new root development is blocked, it is conceivable that the growth and development of new leaves will be greatly reduced. The normal physiological life of a leaf is 2 to 3 years, and these stunted and grotesque leaves are harmful to viewing in any way, so it is important to avoid applying thick fertilizer during leaf expansion.

Spray urea or Bordeaux liquid on Sanjie new leaves before ripening

The mature period of new leaves is generally starting from late March to capping around early May (due to different temperatures), a little more than a month before and after. During this period, according to the lessons of previous cultivation and management, it is best not to spray urea or Bordeaux liquid on the leaves before the new leaves are ripe. Urea is a kind of inorganic alkaline fertilizer, which is often applied or spread in flower cultivation. When applied to potted flowers, the concentration of diluent must be less than 0.1%, otherwise it will cause dehydration and death of flowers and trees. Bordeaux liquid is a self-made fungicide, which is temporarily prepared with quicklime and copper sulfate before use. Its efficacy has protective and bactericidal effect in about 2 weeks, which can prevent the invasion of bacteria and control the spread of bacteria after the disease. Due to the lack of understanding of the fertilizer of urea and the properties of Bordeaux liquid, it is only one-sidedly believed that camellia can provide it with quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer in spring, accelerate the growth and development of new leaves, and protect new leaves from diseases and insect pests. Urea and Bordeaux liquid were sprayed on the leaves respectively. Little do you know that the ratio concentration of urea has strict requirements, the same Bordeaux liquid according to different flower leaves and air temperature, there are equal, double and half-quantity ratio. Results after spraying urea, the new leaves fell one after another, and finally became a smooth rod, and the plant died soon. After spraying Bordeaux liquid, the new leaves scorched, shrunk and wrinkled, which did not lead to death, but it has seriously affected the normal growth of the plant. To investigate the reason, after spraying urea (especially if the concentration is not controlled), it is very easy to cause fertilizer damage. The cell sap in the plant is reverse osmosis, so the plant is dehydrated and dies. After spraying Bordeaux solution (1 part of copper sulfate, 1 part of quicklime and 180 parts of water), the drug damage occurred due to the action of copper sulfate. It is especially harmful to young new leaves. Therefore, the author reminds you that before the new leaves are mature (that is, before capping), avoid spraying urea or Bordeaux liquid (even after the new leaves mature and aging, it is best not to spray to the leaves for the sake of safety), you can apply more mild plant fertilizers, strengthen plant maintenance and management at ordinary times, and it is important to cultivate robust plants, so as to prevent and reduce the invasion and infection of diseases and insect pests. Make the plant vegetative growth exuberant, in preparation for the next stage of bud gestation.

Sijie is impervious to watering in summer.

Camellia is not dormant in summer, and the buds are in the stage of development. And because summer is hot, dry, less rain, healthy branches that do not grow buds will sprout a small amount of summer shoots, so summer watering is most avoid watering impervious (that is, upper wet and lower dry). Families of valuable varieties of camellias generally prefer potted plants, which can not be planted in the open air because of their limited use of soil. Compared with the two, one of the remarkable characteristics of pot planting is small water capacity, fast evaporation in hot and hot summer, exuberant metabolism and fast drying of basin soil. If watering is impermeable at this time, the lower root system is in a state of lack of water, the root system will gradually shrink, dry up, and lose the function of absorbing nutrients and water. After the root system is damaged, the upper leaves of the plant will slowly dry up and fall off from bottom to top, which is the main characteristic of water shortage of the plant. It is found that it can be saved in time, such as if it takes too long to touch the leaves with their hands, and the newly sprouted leaves at the top of the branches are listless, mostly because the roots have been dehydrated for too long, and the roots, especially the new fibrous roots, have shrunk and lost their vitality. At this time, I was powerless and had no choice but to give up. To judge whether the plant is watered properly, just look at the leaves. If the leaves are facing up, there is no drooping phenomenon in the sun, and the water supply and demand of basin soil is generally reasonable. The following two factors should be excluded here: (1) if fertilizer damage occurs as usual in summer, the root will be damaged. Fertilization is generally avoided in summer, this factor can be excluded. (2) the other is that the leaves are not shaded in time under strong light, and sometimes the leaves wilt down temporarily. If moved to a shaded place, it can return to its original state not because of lack of water, but because of the imbalance between root absorption and transpiration of upper leaves. Excluding the above two factors, the leaf facing down is the initial reaction of impermeable watering. If you can pay attention to it at this time and pour it through until the bottom of the basin comes out of the water, the plant can slowly recover its vitality and its physiological function can be restored to normal. So summer watering should be thoroughly watered in the morning. If you find it dry in the evening, you need to make up for it. Even around the hot noon, found that a few particularly dry, but also to break the rule that noon can not be watered, not only to water, but also to water thoroughly. It's just that the method of watering is fastidious: "move to the shade first, spray water on the branches and leaves of the plant, and then pour enough water when the stems and leaves stand up." Summer watering, whether you water once a day, or twice or many times a day, each time you should be watered thoroughly, this is a rule of thumb, there is already a lesson to learn from.

Five precepts frequently change positions

Flowers, like people, are alive and need careful care. But everything has a degree, if you love flowers too much, it will be counterproductive. Some people move flowerpots around casually, moving several places a day, so that flowers have to adapt to the environment frequently, disrupting the normal growth law. In the long run, the flowers are tossing back and forth, either raising the flowers to wilt their heads and being lifeless, or to make the flowers lose their lives and die. From the author's conservation practice, camellia conservation requires a relatively stable growth environment (not only camellias, but also other flowers). In general, don't move it easily (unless you have to move it in bad weather). Camellias grow normally when they are maintained in a stable environment. On the other hand, if you put the balcony today and put it in the room tomorrow, if you want to bask in the sun, the temperature is too high and move to the dark. In fact, the camellia most avoid temperature ups and downs, light suddenly strong and weak, forcing it to frequently adapt to the environment, it will naturally feel tired, the growth is not good. Take an analogy: this is the same as people running, a moment of fast running, a moment of jogging, people feel very difficult. If you run at an average speed all the time, it's the same reason to stick to it. Another thing you may not care about is that when you move potted flowers frequently, the position of camellias cannot always be the same as the original, and you must be changing direction frequently, so that the original sunny side may become shady. The negative side also becomes the sunny side (the sunny side refers to the sunny side, the negative side is the opposite), and may not adapt to the strong light and burn the leaves. In fact, camellias such as adaptive maintenance in the light, to start in the spring should slowly let it accept the sun, make it adapt to the growth in the sun. All of a sudden, the yin and yang side changes, especially in the strong light, it naturally burns the leaves and does not grow well. Maintenance of camellias is best "two fixed", that is, the position is fixed, the direction is fixed (of course, this kind of fixation is relative). In order to prevent the camellias from growing on one side after the direction is fixed, the direction can be changed appropriately in the same place after a period of time, but it should be noted that the interval is not too short, preferably one month. As far as possible to reduce the impact to a minimum, but also can make the whole camellia branches and leaves receive all-round light, grow naturally and symmetrically, and improve the ornamental. The maintenance of camellias should be relatively fixed and avoid changing positions frequently, which is an important way to raise camellias, which has been proved by practice.

Spray water on branches and leaves during the turn of spring and summer in Liujie

From the point of view of ordinary people, it is very common to spray water on branches and leaves. Some people use spraying water instead of cleaning leaves or watering. In summer and autumn, in order to meet the requirements of camellias' habit of wetting, they often use spraying water to reduce temperature, increase humidity and improve local microclimate. But it should be used cautiously in spring, especially in late spring and early summer. There are two main reasons for this consideration: (1) people say that "it is really difficult to do business in spring, one head of luggage, one head of luggage," saying that there are many Rain Water in spring, saying that it rains as soon as it rains, and it can rain on and off several times a day. The air humidity itself is very high. Late spring and early summer is the southern plum rain season, the air humidity can be said to be saturated. (2) the diseases of camellias mostly occur frequently at the turn of spring and summer, which is hot and humid. There are basically two kinds of diseases that affect camellias: anthracnose, brown spot, brown spot, also known as black spot. These two diseases are often characterized by the onset of disease in May and June, the peak period in July and August, and the cessation of the disease after September.

In these two diseases, when the temperature rises to about 20 ℃, the bacteria produce conidia and spread with the wind and rain to invade the leaf tissue. Through repeated infection, the disease spread and aggravated. In general, poor ventilation, lack of light, improper fertilizer and water, thin plant growth and so on will promote the disease. In addition to the reasons mentioned above, some people who like to spray water instead of cleaning leaves or watering should stop at least during this period, otherwise it will undoubtedly open the door for germs to invade and play a role in fuelling the flames to some extent. The author has experience and lessons. I hope the growers will pay attention and attention. Therefore, to avoid spraying water on branches and leaves in spring is an effective measure to reduce the disease. Of course, the environment should be ventilated and the light should be strengthened. Only by cultivating healthy plants and scientific management can the plants have strong roots and luxuriant leaves.

Fertilization in three periods of Qijie

The three periods of taboo fertilization for camellias refer to "fertilization in summer, fertilization before flowering and fertilization in winter". Although camellias are not dormant in summer, the weather is hot, the climate is dry, and the water in basin soil evaporates quickly. Fertilization is easy to increase the concentration of fertilizer and burn out the roots. This is the reason why fertilization is not suitable in summer. The flowering period of camellias is usually in late winter and early spring. Although flowering requires a lot of nutrients, emphasis should be placed on fertilization in spring and autumn. Fertilizing before flowering will often "top" off the huge buds, resulting in stiff buds and stiff flowers. Or after blooming, the top of the petals blackened, the petals spread small, and could not be fully opened in all directions. Camellia has the habit of dormancy in winter, when the growth stops, fertilization has no effect on it. On the contrary, it is necessary to master three key periods of fertilization for camellias: (1) applying sprout fertilizer from February to March. That is, from post-flowering to pre-sprouting period, mainly nitrogen fertilizer. (2) Fertilizer of pregnant bud was applied from May to June, mainly phosphate fertilizer. (3) from October to November, flower bud fertilizer and nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer were applied. Can not be applied after the flower color (that is, it can no longer be applied in winter after December). If the camellia fertilizer can be mastered, plant fertilizer is the main fertilizer type, and poultry manure fertilizer is little or no fertilizer. Try to be as light as possible, but would rather do it many times. This is the key point of fertilization. It can be said that it is a fertilization method fumbled out in the long-term maintenance of camellias.

Bajie grafting has no purpose and no plan.

Camellia grafting generally refers to multi-variety grafting. The grafting of every variety is faced with the problem of how to select and match the scion. Although the choice of scion is controlled by everyone's interests and hobbies, we should adopt a scientific attitude and make a correct choice according to the resources of the breed, and then make a reasonable collocation from the operator's personal hobby in order to achieve the desired effect of the grafted camellias. Here are several options for readers' reference, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. We should give full play to our strengths and circumvent our weaknesses, focus on them, and turn unfavorable factors into favorable factors in order to achieve something and achieve success.

The main results are as follows: (1) the plant type and growth of the selected varieties are similar: if the growth of the selected varieties is different, some varieties must germinate early and some germinate late. The varieties that germinated early had sufficient nutrients, grew well and had more shoots, while the varieties that germinated late became weaker because of the depletion of nutrients by the early ones. Varieties of different plant types are grafted together, some are erect, some are expanded. Therefore, if it is not considered carefully in advance, it will make the plant type disorganized and hinder viewing.

(2) the florescence of selected varieties is the same: for this consideration, the effect of multi-color and multi-type of one tree can be obtained when flowering. But to achieve this effect is not as easy as you think. If they all have flower buds, the nutrients of the mother plant will be exhausted and the growth will not flourish in the next few years. The right thing to do is to allow different varieties to open in batches year by year, in a prosperous year, and in a weak year. This is beneficial to the rejuvenation of the mother plant and the preservation of vitality.

(3) selection of varieties and inconsistent florescence: the aim is to make the florescence of the mother plant bloom one after another, which in fact prolongs the flowering period, which is what we want, but this is only possible when the tree strength of the mother plant is strong. Otherwise, we can only let the early flower varieties bloom. Late flower varieties are often stillborn due to lack of nutrients. Falling flowers and buds is its inevitable result. Therefore, this kind of grafting puts forward certain requirements for the mother plant, if it can not be achieved, it can only be made to grow mainly by vegetative growth. Make it refreshed and open again the year after next.

(4) the selection of color and pattern should be reasonable: the choice of color and pattern can be decided according to everyone's hobby, some like Wenban and some like martial petal. Some like red, but also prefer white, can not be forced. If you choose a variety of the same color, the florescence or a fiery red, or a tree of silver makeup, the effect is spectacular. If some people think that a variety is too monotonous, various varieties can be crossed into one tree, which can achieve colorful effect at that time.

(5) choose different varieties of the same tree species: the purpose of this is to coordinate and look beautiful. For example, if camellias and tea plums are connected to a tree, the former branches are long and the leaves are large, while the latter are small. It appears to be a bit irrelevant, and the pattern is also large and small, which is not enough in any way.

Therefore, multi-variety grafting of camellia should be planned in advance and considered as a whole. Don't act on a whim and act arbitrarily. Otherwise, the desired visual effect will not be achieved, and it will only be time-consuming, laborious and fruitless.

Selection of basin and use of soil

1. The selection of the pot should be of moderate size between the plant and the pot. Can not small pot large seedlings, generally 2-year-old 3-year-old seedlings can use 4-inch-5-inch tile basin. Had better not use porcelain basin, because its air permeability is poor, easy to accumulate water, cause rotten root. If there are many seedlings, 2-3 plants can be planted in the same pot with 7-8-inch tile pots. Wait a year or two before you split the pot. Camellia likes to grow in slightly acidic soil. The soil can be mixed with 4 parts of yellow soil, 3 parts of rotten leaf soil and 3 parts of sand. First, put tiles on the bottom of the basin and fill it with about an inch of coarse sand to facilitate water seepage. Fill in another layer of mixed soil. Plant the plant on one side of the pot. Planting on the side of the basin is better than planting in the middle of the basin, because the soil on the edge of the basin always dries first, it is not easy to cause rotten roots due to stagnant water, and it is easy to survive. Bury the soil to the top layer of the root a little higher, do not need to be too deep. Then gently shake the end of the basin, let the soil close to the root, pour water through, and place it in a cool place. Spray water to the leaves with a fine nozzle spray can every morning and evening to protect the leaves from wetting. Half a month later, it can be moved to outdoor normal maintenance and management. two。 The leaves of camellia under fertilizer and water management are leathery and can not be used to reflect the water requirement of the plant. Therefore, we can not take the method of watering the basin soil until it is dry. It must be watered immediately when the dry surface of 50%-6% of the basin soil is slightly whitened or there is a small crack. The watering should infiltrate slowly until the water flows out from the bottom of the basin. Summer watering can be combined with foliar watering. The stagnant water in the basin should be removed in time during the rainy season. To prevent the soil from being airtight and causing rotten roots. The balcony is windy, dry and dusty, so it is necessary to spray water around the leaves and pots, wash the dust, increase humidity and clean the leaves, so that the photosynthesis of the leaves is good. Camellia likes fertilizer, but is afraid of applying thick fertilizer, so it should be applied thin and diligently. The method of fertilization is: irrigating under the root in spring and autumn and topdressing outside the root in summer and winter. Before dressing up in April, apply rotten cake fertilizer and add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to prevent basin soil from being alkalized and cause leaves to turn yellow. Apply 2% alternately at the same time. Urea, promote its multiple spring buds, grow strong spring shoots, enhance reproductive capacity, before each application, should loosen the basin soil, let fertilizer and water evenly permeate, so that the roots can absorb nutrients as soon as possible. Fish miscellaneous water with high content of potassium and phosphorus and 3% m potassium dihydrogen phosphate were applied after April and before early July and throughout autumn to ensure the various nutrients needed for flower bud differentiation and budding in the reproductive stage. Fertilizing should be done once a week. There is no fertilizing in summer and winter. Apply external fertilizer instead of root fertilizer, while spraying water to the leaf, topdressing with 2`w potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution, usually twice a week. It is best to spray on the back of the leaf. Spray in the morning or evening in summer and at noon on a sunny day in winter. 3. The light control balcony light is generally strong, to like the half-shade camellia to say the control of the sky light is the key. And summer is the pregnant period of camellia. For example, moving potted flowers will disrupt their adapted growth environment and light surface, affect the quality of buds and cause flowers to grow small. You can't have big, gorgeous flowers. The best way is to put some tall light-loving flowers or tree stumps on the sunny side of the potted flowers to cover them. This can block both the light and the dew. Potted flowers can be fully exposed to the sun when the hot summer is over. Camellia is generally hardy in most parts of our country. As long as the temperature is not lower than-59C, you can safely spend the winter outdoors (except in the cold areas of the north). 4. Thinning and pruning camellias generally do not need pruning, but only cut off the residual flowers in time after flowering, and at the same time cut off the weak sick branches and some inner and overdense branches that affect the graceful posture of the plant. But don't take a big cut because the plant is taller. In this way, it is easy to hurt its vitality and cause plant death. Sparse buds in time, early easy to affect the buds to stay, too late to consume more nutrients, the best time is when Fen is slightly bigger than soybeans. There are only one or two buds for each branch. The seedlings of 2 years and 3 years can only be kept at most 3 and 4. The top seedlings should be retained as far as possible, and the rest should be removed. Such as careful maintenance and management according to the above measures, camellias can also be cultivated in the balcony.

Pot cultivation technique of Camellia

First, the soil to be applied. Soil is the growth basis of potted camellia, because the root system of camellia depends on soil growth and development, and the water and nutrients needed for camellia life activities are mainly absorbed from the soil. Camellia likes acidic, high humus, loose and aerated mountain red (yellow) loam, the pH value is between 5 and 6.5, alkaline soil or heavy clay soil can not be used as potted camellia substrate. Soil preparation: mountain soil (mature red soil of crops) 50%, sawdust or edible fungus residue 40%, cake fertilizer powder or livestock manure and phosphorus fertilizer powder 10%, mix well, water appropriate amount bag ripening, summer and autumn more than 20 days, spring and winter more than 30 days, this kind of soil is not only loose and aerated, but also can preserve fertilizer and water, which is suitable for the growth and development of camellias.

Second, moderate light should be given. Camellias need proper light and are afraid of direct sunlight. At the end of spring and autumn, camellias should be moved to the balcony or the ground where there is much light, and receive all-day light to promote plant growth and development, flower bud differentiation and strong buds. When the sun is strongest in summer, you should move the flowerpot to a sunlit and well-ventilated environment for maintenance, or you can move it to the north balcony or the lower part of the south balcony. 75% sunshade net can also be used to cover the plants from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. to avoid direct sunlight, causing foliar trauma or small plant withering, and the camellia can be moved safely under the balcony for summer.

Third, the temperature should be suitable. Temperature is an important condition for the physiological activity of camellia. Camellia is warm in nature, the most suitable temperature for growth is 18 ℃ to 25 ℃, and the relative humidity is 60 to 65%. For the growth of camellias, spring shoots generally sprout in mid-late March, begin to sprout in April, form terminal buds in mid-late May, stop growing, and gradually differentiate into leaf buds or flower buds. It takes 180 to 240 days from flower bud formation to flowering. Summer shoots germinate in late July and stop growing in early September. Although Camellia is resistant to low temperature, when the cold wave invades, the air temperature suddenly drops below 0 ℃ or encounters a dry northwest gale, it will cause twig frost injury, and the flower bud will wither when it is frozen. For this reason, the flowerpot will be moved to the north to the south to maintain it safely through the winter.

Fourth, the humidity should be suitable. Camellia has many leaves, large leaf area and fast transpiration. Camellia likes humid climate and moist soil as well. Therefore, it is necessary to replenish water to potted camellias, watering once a day in the spring and autumn growing season, once in the morning and evening in summer, especially in the "dog days", and watering or spraying the ground and the periphery of the flowerpot once or twice if the ground is dry, maintain a certain amount of air humidity, and the plant will grow luxuriantly. At the same time, pay attention to because there is a lot of watering, and most families are watering tap water, the soil of flowerpots will be alkalized for a long time. To this end, when watering, 0.5% to 1% ferrous sulfate is added every month, or 5% to 8% edible vinegar can be used to spray the leaves. Camellias like moist soil, but are afraid of stagnant water in the flowerpots. If there is stagnant water in the pots on rainy days, they must be removed in time to prevent the roots from suffocating and rotting in the water.

Fifth, need the right amount of nutrients. Camellia is a fertilizer-loving flower, because the tree is strong, there are more leaves, and the florescence is longer, so it needs more fertilizer. In the process of fertilization, apply sufficient liquid fertilizer, combined with changing pots, apply 3 to 80 grams of rotten cooked cake fertilizer powder or sun-dried chicken and duck manure in each pot according to the size of the flowerpot, and mix well with the bottom soil. Increase the application of organic fertilizer according to the growth period of the plant. Except when it is the coldest and hottest in winter and summer, the rotten dry cake water is applied once or twice a month. The fertilization method is as follows: peel off the basin edge soil for about 2 minutes, and apply liquid fertilizer into the ditch to cover the ready-to-use soil to avoid odor. The rotten cake powder can also be applied on the edge of the basin and mixed well with the basin soil to allow the flowers to be absorbed slowly. Urban flower lovers can go to the flower market to buy special fertilizer for flowers, which is both hygienic and safe. In order to make camellias grow better, during the peak period of camellia peanuts, extra-root fertilization was carried out once or twice a month, and leaves were sprayed with 0.2% to 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 1% to 2% plant auxin. The principle of fertilization: light rather than heavy, light rather than thick, less and not more. We must adhere to the method of applying thin fertilizer frequently, especially not applying raw fertilizer.

Sixth, be suitable for the environment. Camellia likes to grow in an environment with moderate flow of air, and likes the breeze most. It likes the water vapor brought by the southeast wind, but it is afraid of the northwest wind and strong wind, which makes the water evaporate too fast, the supply and demand of camellia is out of balance, and the plant leaves are easy to be damaged. causing the plant to drop buds and flowers. In winter, camellias should be maintained in a sheltered and sunny environment with a certain temperature and humidity. In spring and autumn, the flowerpot should be moved to the balcony to make it ventilated and shaken by the breeze, which is not only good for plant growth, but also conducive to flower bud differentiation, flower bud growth and development, but also reduce the occurrence of diseases and insect pests. Years of practice shows that moderate ventilation and suitable light can play a role in preventing diseases and insect pests.

Fertilization tips for potted camellias

Fertilization of camellias should be carried out selectively according to different growth stages of camellias. Topdressing is needed during the growing period of camellia, and quick-acting liquid fertilizer and chemical fertilizer should be applied. In the stage of branches and leaves, nitrogen fertilizer or nitrogen-based mixed fertilizer should be applied. Phosphate fertilizer or phosphorus-based mixed fertilizer is needed before flower bud differentiation, bud formation, growth and flowering. The mixed fertilizer based on phosphorus and potassium is the most suitable for autumn and winter.

(1) nitrogen fertilizer promotes spring shoot.

Camellias usually begin to bloom in the shade at about 18 ℃. At this time, bud-destroying fertilizer based on nitrogen fertilizer should be applied once every 10 days until the spring shoot begins to Lignification. If possible, foliar spraying can also be carried out with a mixture of 1000 times of potassium dihydrogen phosphate, 1% urea and 300 times rice vinegar. After many times of root and foliar spraying, the spring shoot will grow very luxuriantly, the leaf can extend to the maximum, and the shoot can accumulate rich nutrients, creating good conditions for flower bud differentiation.

(2) increase the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to promote the differentiation of flower buds and form flower buds.

The spring shoot of camellia is full, and after Lignification, there will be a short period of semi-dormancy. At this time, the camellia changed from vegetative growth to reproductive growth, and the flower buds began to differentiate. If you want to make camellias produce more buds, you should apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and no or less nitrogen fertilizer. If the small camellias grow mainly, it is still dominated by nitrogen fertilizer, and no or less phosphorus fertilizer is applied. Foliar spraying with 1000 times potassium dihydrogen phosphate, a small amount of borax and rice vinegar can not only control the excessive growth of camellia branches, but also promote and shorten the time of flower bud differentiation, which is beneficial to the formation of flower buds.

(3) it is not suitable to apply fertilizer in midsummer, let alone thick fertilizer.

When the weather is hot in midsummer, camellias grow slowly or fall into a semi-stagnant state. It is not suitable to apply fertilizer at this time, and special attention should be paid to not applying thick fertilizer. If the soil is barren, thin liquid fertilizer can be applied in combination with watering to improve the soil quality.

(4) appropriate application of mixed fertilizer based on phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in autumn.

The sky is high and cool in autumn, which belongs to the period of nutrient accumulation of camellia plants. In order to survive the winter safely, the mixed fertilizer based on phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied every half a month, combined with foliar spraying to promote plant health and improve the cold resistance of camellias.

(5) dilute phosphate and potassium liquid fertilizer should be applied in winter.

The camellias in the cold winter enter a semi-dormant period. Camellias enter the cellar, vegetative growth has entered dormancy, do not need much fertilizer. However, its reproductive growth has not completely stopped, and it is in the season of flowering or preparing for flowering, so it should be combined with watering and applying thin liquid phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Do not apply thick fertilizer.

Apply concentrated fertilizer during leaf expansion

The application of concentrated fertilizer during leaf expansion is inappropriate with the initial fertilization mentioned above, which seems to be a contradiction, but it is not.

There are two main meanings here: one is that the blooming period of camellias in spring is coming to an end, and after the new buds have not sprouted, it is best to apply fertilizer again for a period of time after the new leaves are unfolded, generally at 10-15 days. Specifically, apply nitrogen-based fertilizer one or two times before the new leaves are capped. The concentration should be light when applied. Return water the next day after application. No more nitrogen fertilizer can be applied after May. The purpose of this fertilization is to accelerate the ripening of new leaves and prepare for the next stage of bud gestation.

Second, it is better to apply plant fertilizer before and after germination, such as vegetable cake, bean cake, peanut cake, etc., which not only contains a lot of nitrogen, but also contains a certain amount of phosphorus, what is more valuable is that the pH value is below 6 or 6, which belongs to acid fertilizer. During dry application, fertilizer can be volatilized slowly, while water application is a quick-acting fertilizer, which can be used not only as base fertilizer, but also as topdressing fertilizer. Plant fertilizer is mild and suitable for camellias which are not tolerant to fertilizer. The application of "thick fertilizer" is the most taboo during leaf expansion. Especially feces from home, such as pigeons, chickens, ducks and so on. These fertilizers are highly fertile, and camellias are prone to fertilizer damage after application. This is especially true during leaf expansion. The symptoms of fertilizer injury are new leaf tip blackening, folds, oil shining, spots, spots (spots, spots are actually fat injuries caused by thick fertilizer on new leaves), the degree of expansion is small, it is difficult to stretch. In particular, the blackening of leaf tip, spots and stripes on new leaves are the primary basis for the diagnosis of fertilizer damage. The phenomenon occurs on the leaves, but it is actually rooted in the roots. This is specially responsible for the absorption of the new hair root burn, the new root development is blocked, it is conceivable that the growth and development of new leaves will be greatly reduced. The normal physiological life of a leaf is 2 to 3 years, and these stunted and grotesque leaves are harmful to viewing in any way, so it is important to avoid applying thick fertilizer during leaf expansion.

Seven precepts of camellia maintenance

Introduction: Camellia is a plant that can be easily seen in the garden. As the dark green leaves are also very beautiful, you can only use the leaves as a foil to other flowers. But flowers are easy to wither and fall is its disadvantage. You can often see flower beds or potted plants full of primroses. Don't pour too much water. Camellia is a plant that can be easily seen in the garden. As the dark green leaves are also very beautiful, you can only use the leaves as a foil to other flowers. But flowers are easy to wither and fall is its disadvantage. You can often see flower beds or potted plants full of primroses. Don't pour too much water. Be careful not to let the roots rot.

Main points of conservation: Camellia conservation, seven precepts, one precepts, one precepts, two precepts, fertilizing during leaf spreading, spraying urea or Bordeaux liquid four precepts before ripening, watering in summer, watering five precepts, changing positions, spraying water to branches and leaves during the turn of spring and summer.

Maintenance and management location: camellia should be placed in a warm, moist, ventilated and transparent place. Sufficient light should be given in spring and shade should be paid attention to in summer to avoid direct sunlight and western basking. If you put it on the balcony, you will die in the sun if you are not careful. It is advisable to put it in the room with a room temperature above 3 ℃ in winter.

Fertilization: Camellia likes fertilizer, should pay attention to put base fertilizer in the basin soil, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, including mature bone powder, hair, chicken feathers, rice chaff ash, poultry dung and superphosphate and other substances. Usually, it is not suitable to apply too much fertilizer, generally apply 2 or 3 times of thin fertilizer from April to May after flowering, and apply a slightly thicker water and fertilizer in autumn and November. When using fertilizer, we should pay attention to a slightly larger proportion of phosphate fertilizer in order to promote the blooming and colorful flowers.

Watering: the cultivation of camellia bonsai should keep the soil moist, but it should not be too wet to prevent dry and wet. Generally, it can be properly watered in spring to facilitate sprouting and shoots; in summer, it is best to spray foliar water to make the leaves drenched, not directly irrigated and fully irrigated, not hot water, to avoid high temperature before and after noon; appropriate amount of watering in autumn; watering in winter is appropriate before and after noon, but every two or three days.

Turn the basin: Camellia bonsai can be turned once every two years, and the new basin should be larger than the old basin No. 1 to facilitate the stretching and development of the root system. The time to turn the basin should be in April in spring, or in autumn. Combined with soil exchange, properly remove part of the consolidated old soil, replace it with fertile and loose new soil, and place base fertilizer in combination.

Pruning: the growth of camellia is slow, so it is not suitable for excessive pruning. It will generally affect the tree-shaped overgrown branches, as well as disease and insect branches and weak branches. If there are too many buds on each branch, only 1 or 2 buds can be left, and keep a certain distance, and the rest should be picked as soon as possible so as not to consume nutrients. In addition, it is necessary to pick close to withered flowers in time, which can also reduce the consumption of nutrients to facilitate the robust growth of plants and the formation of new flower buds.

Pest control: the main diseases of camellia are black mold, anthracnose and so on, which can be controlled by spraying 0.5 degree Bordeaux solution. The main pest is tea shoot moth, and the control method can cut off the insect tip, which is generally carried out from April to June. It can also be sprayed with methamidophos 2000 times liquid, and the spraying time is at the end of March and the beginning of April, that is, when the harm of overwintering larvae is mild. Spray the leaves and tender shoots until they are wet.

 
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