Aquarium Fish Farming: 4 New Player Advice Old Player Review
I thought a lot before I picked up the pen, but I don't know where to start, but I was filled with emotion. The teenager who once held 5 yuan for a fish tank with 50 cents a goldfish in the tank has now stepped into the 30 mark. Looking around, the parents' gray hair is getting more and more, and the children are growing up, running around for the heavy economic pressure every day. Looking back and looking back, the teenager is still smiling brightly in the sun and holding a fish tank in his hand.
Fish farming has been more than ten years, literary talent is general, may also be a clich é, but I still hope that this short article can help newcomers, even one, is gratified.
1. Physics
I have seen too many fish friends make the biggest mistake of "filling" at the very beginning. What is meant by "filling"? Many fish friends mistakenly think that the more filter material, the better, fill the bottom trough, is a success, do not know, filter media produced so many kinds, must have its existence significance.
First of all, we should learn to clearly understand what is meant by the physical zone, the so-called physical area, is the first layer to block and decompose residual faeces. If physics is not done well, then no matter how efficient the biochemical filter material behind you is, it will be in vain.
I personally recommend dry and wet, there is no need to popularize science on this floor, those who have used are giving a thumbs up. Dry and wet followed by white, blue and black cotton, increasing layer by layer, the most efficient barrier decomposition and the formation of a preliminary biofilm.
2. Biochemistry
It is too complicated for many new players to understand. in short, please pick up the test reagent in your hand and test the tap water at home to fully understand the local water quality in order to better match the biochemical filter materials.
If your tap water is about 7, you can comfortably match soft filter media with hard filter media and have the same grid. The so-called soft: K1Magi K3, brushes, Shikawa sub-era filter materials and so on. The so-called hard filter material is fired stone filter material.
If the water quality of your area is 8-9, please strictly match 2 parts of soft with 1 part of hard ratio, otherwise your late PH will bother you for a very long time, a simple sentence: please carry on the soft and hard mix that best suits you according to the water quality of your own area, instead of blindly saying that you can pour all the filter materials into which filter material is good, which will hurt the people and money.
3. Treatment
Here is only for some of the initial symptoms of minor ailments, suitable for careful players. Many players have heard of the old three "heating up for underwater salt", but how to change this water? How does the temperature rise? Where's the salt? According to the past experience of myself and helping fish friends, let's say a few simple words.
First of all, the conventional method is to change 4 stroke 1, heat up 2 degrees, and add 3/1000 salt. Usually accompanied by a small detail is to turn off the lights and turn on oxygen rest, change water 5pm daily to help stimulate metabolic recovery, usually repeat step 1 every 4 days, routine recovery 3 times, of course, there are tests of patience, here is another matter.
4. Food section
My personal diet match: Loach + shrimp + insects (Loach must be controversial). I won't say much about the treatment of Loach. I have one more patient step here-you must raise it for more than a week and change 100% of the water every day. It can be seen that the body color changes from black to golden, go to the head and go to the viscera to refrigerate.
The shrimp skipped it; why did the insects mention it? The dragons are still there after all, and the occasional insects really help them stay in combat.
Literary talent is limited, so much for the time being. Finally, I wish you all a beautiful fish.
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