Share some practical bonsai experience, the basic methods of bonsai making, see my

When it comes to "sticking", first of all is the question of how to stick and what to use as a binder:

Bonding material is actually very common, is we carved stone crushed slag after sieving the mung bean size particles and fine left, aluminate cement (note; ordinary cement is "Portland", aluminate is a special cement), why use aluminate cement, because: ①. The label is high, the number is fast and easy to work. two。 Aluminate cement is khaki, which is similar in color to sand stone. ③ loess (for color blending, note that it is not yellow on the floor) (available in paint shops) ④ the fourth material is the most important without which nothing can be done. This material is the "water" that is closest to us.

Once we have mastered the means of bonding, we will no longer be in a dilemma that "a clever housewife cannot make bricks without rice". At the same time, we can also make our works achieve the desired results without regret. however, sticking back and forth and left and right does not affect the water absorption of rocks. How to solve the problem of rock water absorption?

Cement is used on all sides and yellow mud is used in the middle to connect the upper and lower stones.

Dig a concave between the two bonded surfaces and fill them with absorbent materials (such as rock powder, activated carbon powder, etc.)

The master can do the mortise and tenon structure in the middle, only using cement to bond around, and so on.

Crab claw orchid, but died soon after flowering, and later learned from the flower friends that the grafted crab claw orchid will grow better and not die easily. After grafting a single-layer tree, I can't help but grafting multiple layers.

Everyone wants to get good piles, but there have been more people playing with pots these years, but there are very few good ones. Is to meet a good pile, but grow in a crack in the stone. Since it is play, pure play, money without money can be ignored. Then you have to run a little further, on a mountain that no one has ever been to. Just take care of your own safety. There are still good piles, and unremarkable ones are not dug. Generally speaking, what kind of tree it grows in groups, there must be more than one tree in a place. I like non-deciduous trees, mainly Firethorn and Douban, golden marbles can not be found.

Dig first use a saw to remove the weeds and branches around the tree to make a place where you can exert your strength. As the tree has not been dug up, don't rush to cut the branches in place. You can cut it a little longer first. Digging the nest wider can reduce the damage to the roots. Try to protect the fibrous root as well as possible, which is the biggest factor for survival! Generally, the main root is in the middle and cut off with a saw. After the pile comes out, intercept the root first, and cut it in place at once. Keep the whisker root and lateral root, and the main root is in no hurry to saw. Then look at the branches up and down, left and right, and conceive the budding point and the future trend of the branches. Find out the sitting direction of the last pile, and then saw the length of the main root. If you have to look somewhere else, cover the stake with grass and hide it to moisturize.

You must have kept in mind the future appearance of each pile when you dug the pile. The place to sprout will come sooner or later, as long as the pile is alive. When they grow to semi-Lignification, they can be modeled. Don't wait until it is fully Lignified before the shape is easy to break. If you go to the scrap store and buy some aluminum wire, you have to wrap the aluminum wire in the opposite direction ~ personal experience. Plants have the ability to heal wounds quickly. don't worry about losing some leaves and branches when you get tangled up. It will grow back. First find out the central point of the pile, that is, the pile head, and the S-shaped branches are the most beautiful. Clean up the unnecessary branches, and then wrap the silk shape from top to bottom. Generally, the lower the crown is, the shorter the crown is. Do not repeat the branches in the same direction, but crisscross and radiate. When it's done, give it enough water to let it grow crazy. Wait for the secondary branches to come out and wipe off the unwanted buds for nourishment to the desired branches. I prefer natural clouds to round ones. Maybe the round one has artificial marks no matter how you look at it. Unwanted branches should be willing to be removed, and only when there is a house can you get it. Since bonsai is an art, it must have its excellence. Why is the calligrapher writing the same word so handsomely? That's the truth! The shape should be taken by surprise and do not follow the routine. People can't help but like bonsai as soon as they see it! More to search for bonsai pictures, learn from the master level of expert bonsai modeling help to improve.

Upper basin personal aesthetic ~ shrubs are suitable for round or oval basins, trees are suitable for square, cliffs and water are suitable for trapezoidal basins. Use pots according to the color of bark and leaves. In short, do not have visual discomfort. So as not to affect the art of the whole tree. Since pile digging is in spring, the plan of the year lies in spring, and the basin is also in spring. After a year or even several years of growth, the whisker roots must be very luxuriant, cut off some roots, do not change all the soil of the original roots, which is conducive to the recovery of the tree. Cooked pile on the basin, then you have to expose most of the roots to the outside, a good bonsai, only beautiful branches, but no roots to set off is imperfect. The place where the bonsai is placed must be ventilated, half-yin and half-yang. The dormant period, flowering period and fruiting stage of the tree should be watered less. Turn the basin regularly and apply some fertilizer to the basin soil two or three years after it is put on. Florist sells, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium buried in several corners of the basin, not too close to the root. One flower, one world, one wood, one life.

Maintenance and management do not need to create such a good environment for piles! It's all wild, so don't spoil it. Ease makes a lazy man, adversity makes a hero. It is only entangled with a thin film in the cross section of the branch, instead of entangling the whole tree, which is time-consuming and laborious. Or just touch it with white latex. But the film is the best. I haven't seen any wound healing agent, rooting powder, etc., no need! Get away from me! After watering the roots, do not water the roots for a week. Keep the pelvic floor permeable. Watering the roots must follow the principle of "no dry, no watering". Spray the branches once every two to three days with a sprayer. In this way, it almost sprouts for a month in a row, and the survival rate is 98% by planting piles in this way.