Conservation of succulent plants of the genus Fairy Cup: Patch Flying Map of the Fairy Cup of thumb

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Thanks to the author [Eve] for the original exclusive authorization to share

Editor's note: Wikipedia

Coordinates: Kunming, Yunnan

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Original title: Eve's Garden Fairy Cup-Part III "The Legend of Patsy Flying Map"

This is the longest sharing article ever. Baby rest your eyes and watch slowly.

The oldest elder in the Fairy Cup of Patch Flying Map lived among the steep cliffs. He wore gray brown old leaf clothes and a white silver crown on his head. He was noble and extraordinary.

If the plants growing on that dreamy shore were called fairies, Patchfly was their godmother.

Patsy Flyer has the hardest branches, the most tenacious vitality, and the richest corolla in the fairy cup. Because of its thick leaves and short circles, it is also named "thumb" fairy (hereinafter referred to as "thumb").

At the same time, this godmother is also the slowest growing in the fairy cup, sleeping most of the year, they only grow 5-8 leaves a year, and the stakes are about 3-10 mm. Most of their energy is spent repairing wounds torn apart by insects and animals.

Such a species was born because of the harsh environment given by nature. They were experiencers and survivors!

Turning to the topic of this article, I have seen the second chapter of Fairy Cup (see Sunset Fairy, Morning Dew, Flesh Fairy Cup Chapter II!) Friends should have more or less in-depth understanding of the fairy cup, now we raise most of the fairy cup species grown on the coast, its characteristics are also described in detail in the previous articles, here will not say more, this article is mainly detailed is "Patch Flying Map" thumb fairy cup. This article was supposed to come in the fall, but it's premature because a lot of thumb lovers are already reporting a lot of planting problems.

Okay, so I'm going to do two things: "Summarize the problem" and "Share personal experience"(personal experience, unofficial, not absolute, if you think it's useful, don't do it absolutely!) This post may be a bit long, because I will share all the experiences of hundreds of thumbs I have raised all at once! I haven't slept for four days in a variety of rush work, not my impatience, nor my insomnia, is the recent day and night received thumb problem is too much, too serious!

To sum up the problem categories, I receive messages (comments, private letters) every day, more or less dozens of planting problems about the thumb, classified into the following categories: "pot","root problem","growth problem","summer problem","disease problem" and so on. Repeat repeat repeat or repeat, back to the information back to thumb cramps, these days keep doing live video to do ready-made solutions, but it seems that many fans still can not understand, so hereby catch this post with the help of encyclopedia release.

Well, I'm going to write everything I know one by one. Of course, this article may be the longest technical sharing article ever, so I've divided it into two parts. It reads as follows:

first part

What basin should be used for "upper basin"? How? How deep? Ye Zi, do you want to masturbate?

What soil is used for "root"? How much water? How long does it take to root?

How long does it take for the "growth" scar to recover? For how long? Why hasn't it been long?

next

How long does growth last? How long do they bloom?

How to Care for Summer? Will summer die?

"Disease" Why does the leaf turn yellow all the time is what disease infected? The stake is empty. It's broken! The corolla dies and does not grow.

Bud!

"Variety problem" Why is the thumb so long leaf? How does thumb raise round is breed to have a problem?

"Upper basin"

Just this time I just received a new batch of thumbs, so I prepared 3 cases for you to say in detail about my upper basin!

First you get the thumb. First thing you do is check everything. Check what? The first pile has wormholes, leaves infected or decayed.

Wormholes are common for Fairy Cup. The main inspection is to check whether there are eggs or live insects inside the wormhole. If they are found, they can be removed with tweezers. The rod's broken skin and hollow will not affect the growth and root growth, as long as there are no residual eggs or direct fracture is ok!

"Leaf problem", first of all, there is no doubt that in the transportation process because of the sultry and lead to rot infected leaves are bound to be removed!

Secondly, the infected leaves around the rotten leaves are also best removed together! Yellow, black, soft, melted! All of these things are gone! (Although the thumb leaves are expensive, but for the health of the whole plant!)

After rubbing off, carefully observe whether the pole is infected. If the leaves appear black, soft and melted, dig out the piece directly and apply medicine. If it is green or light yellow, it proves that there is no problem! The medicine can use powder such as healing agent, carbendazim or disinfectant.

Okay, the problematic leaf is finished. Next, let's talk about the leaf without problems, that is, the thumb "Ye Yi". What is Ye Yi? The thumb has a characteristic that the consumed leaves will not fall off by themselves, and they are very strong and stick to the pile, like a thick layer of clothing. In the wild environment, the pile of the thumb basically depends on it to protect it! (Anyway, that's how I understand it. It's just a piece of clothing. It doesn't matter how you interpret it. Anyway, that's what it means.)

What should we do? I'm going to remove a little bit--like the buried part, and a little bit at the base of the corolla, because once planted, the corolla grows completely differently from the wild, so make room for it to grow. The rest of them try not to masturbate, because this is a very important transitional umbrella for them to adapt to the new environment. Unless I find wormholes or infections in the gaps, I won't masturbate!

Enough details, don't ask me again if I want to do this or that, I received a burst of memory when I received pictures on WeChat...

"Basin" for the thumb all the pots I use are rock pots! Because the rock density is high, the temperature insulation effect is good, and it is not easy to cause the temperature in the pelvic cavity to be too high in summer and too low in winter, thus causing hot and cold. The second is that the stone basin can have a certain effect on soil stability. And most importantly, no one will ever move it again, including the owner, hahaha.

Okay, start planting. For long legs, I plant them deep first, fill them with soil, and then slowly lift and adjust the depth. After adjustment, a lot of stones will be placed around the pile to fix it again. (Emphasis on the key points, stability must be stable, the thumb head is really not ordinary heavy)

"Paving stone" I use paving stone is and basin matching rock, why? Soil compaction, stable basin cavity, good roots, original ecology, oh...

Cover exposed piles without leaf coats with moss.

No.1 Long leg example completed

NO.2 Bushy thumb group upper basin.

Skipping the repeated cleaning of leaves, this old pile has one more part to clean up, which is the residual branches. These stumps tend to rub the back of the leaves after the thumb pelvis grows, so they must be cleaned up!

The remnant branches of these leaves were very hard, sticking out like firewood roots. It was troublesome to clean them up. They could not be pulled hard and could only be slowly loosened along the direction of the leaves.

Another special point in this case is the original root, which is an old stump with a relatively rare intact original root.

What is primary root? It is the virgin root that has not been moved since germination, but usually the rough mining method will pull it off, even the whole pile will be pulled apart directly. To mine the complete primary root, the rock must be pried open and taken out to retain it. The primary root is very hard, and the root system is twisted and coiled together. The thinnest ones are as thick as wires, and the surface layer will be covered with a thick layer of old skin. It is very easy for players to mistake them for stakes, and they will be exposed when planting (God! This is something that only careless players can achieve...)

The thumb has a very good regeneration of the original root fibrous root, the basic survival rate can be more than 90%. (Original goods, of course, save trouble) So see here everyone should understand, a lot of thumb old pile difficult to root, this has a lot to do with the destruction of the original root, for example, pole and crown rely on such an old root to live for dozens of hundreds of years, suddenly cut it off, but also experienced transportation damage, environmental changes and other factors, do you think it is difficult to regenerate? Think for yourself!

Ok, according to its original root orientation and crown orientation, fill in the brain, once in nature is a kind of shape, and then choose a suitable rock basin.

Note that when placing and lifting the shape, the original root is likely to pop out of the soil surface, so according to the particularity of this example, first use small stones to press all the original roots, and then slowly adjust the crown and stakes.

Their pegs look solid but should not be completely exposed, because in the wild, the thumb pegs are rarely exposed, either hidden under stones or protected by thick leaf coats, so I always cover them with stones.

If the stone can't stop it, cover it with moss. I know, but isn't it a shame that such a good stake is covered? What I want to say is, can you consider the feelings of plants, people's original pole itself is growing under heavy protection, in order to see a pole to expose it, there is obsessive-compulsive disorder also stripped clean leaves, if you raise it just to satisfy your eyes, then don't blame it fragile death, or has been dormant does not grow.

NO2 Complete, what plants need, what it should look like, please find it yourself, from its original ecology to find rather than from other people's mouth heard, or self-righteous feeling. That way you will take a lot of detours, this is what I once summed up the lesson of blood.

NO3 long legs plus bushes, to be honest, this is a very difficult case. Piles long head big, corolla upward, and a lot of piles have been bitten to holes, the most embarrassing thing is, to my hand has no leaves, don't ask me, I don't know who did it, anyway, not me. Hey, standing is not the same (top-heavy, light-footed, slender, if you dare stand up at 90 degrees, it will dare to break for you to see!) Not really (the corolla grows all at once, and it takes at least several years for the crown to face the sun if it lies flat).

According to the convention, first bury all the remaining original roots, and then think slowly. The brain fills its original form.

Okay, next question: "roots."

I believe this picture is familiar to everyone. This is the case of the root cultivation pot that was taken out in three months last autumn. How did it come out? You think the most important reason is mixing soil, right? NO! NO! NO ! Not exactly.

Analyze this case, first of all, it has been less than a month from mining to my home, that is to say, it is fresh enough! The consumption was not too serious. Secondly, it had half of its original roots and had a good root base!

Once the root system of the thumb grows, it is very strong. From the details, we can see that the dust soil will not fall at all! The original shape of the flowerpot is completely preserved. And humidity is dare not wet "wet"! With this constant stability in its pelvic environment, it is comfortable, and its roots will naturally grow wildly. Do you want to ask how to water again? To be honest, I really didn't water it much. I just planted it on the third day and threw it out once.

So how does humidity control stay in this range? Well, it depends on the mix and placement. In general, rooting requires a soil that can solve the current climate and a pot suitable for the current environment, and then maintain a good humidity to form a superior rooting environment. Well, so the most important thing is balance! All of them!

There are many kinds of fairy cup soil I often use, which are used in different kinds, different situations and different planting environments.

Therefore, it is still necessary to repeat and emphasize a problem again and again. The fatal problem is that there is no absolute soil mixing! Only relative! Please don't ask me what soil I use as soon as you come up. This kind of question is completely nonsense. Because your cultivation method and preferences cannot be the same as mine, your environment and mine cannot be the same, and your fairy cup and mine cannot be the same! (I am excited because I get so many repeated questions every day!) ok, I won't keep you guessing. My recipe can be listed, but I hope it's just for your reference, not for you to copy it directly and take it to pit your own meat.

Kunming exposed culture: red jade soil 30%, volcanic rock 20%, sea pumice head 10%, peat 20%, sand 10%, cinder 8%, sheep dung 2%

Watering: spring, summer, autumn, winter, four seasons completely regardless.

Kunming shed culture: red jade soil 20%, volcanic rock 20%, sand 20%, cinder 20%, peat 18%, slow release fertilizer 2%

Watering:

Spray water once every 2 days in spring (Kunming is dry season in spring)

Summer: spray water once every 7-10 days (Kunming summer is rainy season)

Autumn: spray water once every 5-7 days

Winter: look at the weather water Kunming winter is always a question mark when cold and hot.

The above is my personal exposure in kunming and shed with soil, only kunming and similar climate reference!

In addition, in other areas, I can only give you some suggestions from the climate data collected:

Jiangsu and Zhejiang regions: coarse sand/fine rock 30%, volcanic rock 30%, peat 18%, red jade 20%, grain carbon/carbon residue 2%

Guangshen area: crushed rock/pyrochlore/medical stone head 20%, volcanic rock 20%, peat 15%, coarse sand 20%, diatom 10%, cinder 13%, slow release fertilizer 2%

Northern region: phytolith 15%, red jade 15%, volcanic rock 20%, peat 15%, vermiculite 5%, pine phosphorus 5%, diatom 5%, fine sand 15%, grain carbon/carbon residue 5%

Northwest China: volcanic rock 20%, mountain sand 20%, gold planting stone 10%, vermiculite 5%, red jade 20%, peat 20%, grain carbon/carbon residue 5%

The above formula is for reference only! Specific according to your planting preferences and specific link adjustment! Why is it so complicated? Then I want to ask why do you need to mix soil? Quite simply, so many different species were mixed in order to solve the problem of regional climate.

Secondly, if you are planting thumbs now, there is a recipe that is temporary where both can be used to root roots. That is, red jade 80%, coarse sand, vermiculite 10%, but only limited to non-growing season temporary induced roots, not suitable for long-term planting. For example, now, hot summer or cold winter can be directly dry inserted with this formula, and autumn cooling directly with soil balls to replace the soil.

"Watering" The first thing to say is that if you are carefully calculating the proportion of soil, you should deeply understand the water permeability and water retention of your soil, how much water can make it moisturize each time, and how long the moisture will dry. If you really don't have much experience, I can recommend that you install an ecological monitor. As shown in the picture next to my wife this small yellow instrument, it can detect your environment at any time, temperature, soil pH, humidity, the intensity of sunlight, more scientific than you insert toothpicks bar.

Thumbs have the same water needs as other Coast Fairy cups, like to wet their heads and feet. In addition to the water supply according to the weather during the service period, I almost do not need to manage the other stages. Shed or non-outdoor environment directly to see the detector on the OK, humidity due to temperature regulation!

Watering:

I always water only spray will not be completely watered, the temperature within 30 degrees basically maintain more than 60%, more than 30 degrees on the relative reduction of humidity. Of course, if you are worried, hot and humid in summer or cold and humid in winter, you can transfer your thumb to a place where you can see the light in advance. The thumb dormancy period can last up to a year, which is very strong.

But in my planting experience, last year Kunming frost I lost all the tubes into a popsicle, and a leaf did not hurt. Now summer every day under the sun Kunming rain also did not see what happened! Currently 0 dead. I never worry about the thumb, because it really saves trouble...

Light:

All Coast Fairy cups require a great deal of sunlight, not to mention the thumb, bask in it hard, give it the brightest possible sunlight, and it's all built for the sun! Of course, the disease convalescence period does not harden except seedlings! In addition, the fairy cup roots must need sunlight. Anyway, I kind of good direct throw outside, into the plant I have never seen sunburn and sun dead, Kunming this ultraviolet you know, but seedlings have a batch of premature throw out to see the light was burned, but 2 weeks leaves shed back to normal.

Ventilation:

With the sentence above, the bigger the better, the better like a coastal typhoon!

Growth:

All right, let's use a counterattack to illustrate the growth of the thumb.

The thumb fairy cup is very slow in overall growth, but the thumb is definitely ox x for scar recovery. The picture above shows an old pile entered in March this year. When it came, it was covered with bruises and bruises, and almost no leaves were intact. But with a small amount of original roots, unshed leaves, restore the ecological planting method, the third day directly throw outdoor rain exposure, do you think I am very cruel?

After two weeks of planting, the injured leaves begin to recover, which means that its roots are already active.

After planting for a month and a half, pay attention to look carefully! Click the number of leaves, did not grow new leaves! It is the old leaf that miraculously begins to recover! The stir-fried leaves are getting fat, and the scars are healing! The powder grew out by itself.

Today! That is, after 3 months of planting, the scars almost disappeared, but the number of leaves still did not increase!

Yes, believe your eyes, this is the conclusion that I have tried countless times, although the thumb fairy grows slowly, but it has this magical regenerative repair function! (I thought it would be nice to use its leaf pulp to make a mask, but it's too expensive to think about it.) now you understand why you are introducing me to say that it uses all its nutrients to repair wounds during the growing period of nature. it's poisonous. It's so injured that it counterattacks without growing new leaves.

Well, through this case, you should have the answer to the question of growth. Under normal circumstances, the leaf of the thumb, as long as there is no rot infection, a slight fracture can be fully recovered a few weeks after the hairy root. And the normal rooting time, the growing season should be 2-4 weeks, the dormant season may be January-February or even no hair, do not worry at this time, because as long as to ensure that it is alive, will endure to death until next year, the root system will wake up.

Of course, the premise is that you don't do it blindly, and many people can't wait to mess around and cut a few knives at any time. (Ah, I am also speechless. You can also cut down stakes that grow only a few millimeters a year). It's enough to soak this potion and that potion at any time. Let me put it this way. It's only a few months after you've planted it, and people may just be ready to wake up, and if you hurry to change its place or soil, it will have to adapt again.

If you can't take root, think for yourselves! Have you done these things or not? Except for the plants themselves because of the serious damage to mining or the excessive consumption of transportation, in fact, most of the thumbs are blindly killed by their own owners! It's a slow-growing breed. What's the rush? If there are enough leaves and stalks thick enough with primary roots, you won't die for a year and a half, what's your hurry? If it is because mining has been uprooted and transported by several countries, in the end, there are few leaves, half dead, and immortals cannot be saved, how can you expect God to match the earth, God hair root water can save ah, your own brain.

Let's take the next negative case about growth. When this one came to my hand, the leaf coat had been completely stripped off by the Koreans, and then there was no cover treatment.

Two months later, you see for yourself, you feel it, the picture is not reversed, it is indeed the overall feeling is not good. Practice shows everything, and now you know why I don't like to peel leaves, right? why is it emphasized and wordy in this article that piles must be well protected? of course, this is just my experience that you can try again, because I am rough and wild.

Split up:

The thumb Fairy Cup naturally takes many years because of its very slow growth rate. How did the heads of so many students come from? Quite simply, in the primary environment, the thumb is often bitten by insects and trampled by animals. once the growth point and stake are damaged, it will grow a group of lateral buds to maintain its viability. (well, a very indomitable fairy godmother. Destroy one and I'll give you one)

Why doesn't it grow?

Sharing here, I believe everyone can feel the edge of this issue in some way.

First, the thumb itself is a very slow-growing variety, regardless of whether it is hairy or growing.

Second, if there is no response or death for a year and a half or even in the spring of the following year, it must still be dormant, and you should consider whether the planting method is "relatively" correct and whether you meet the conditions of moisture, sunshine, ventilation and so on. Of course, there have been cases of dormant death, but it is still very rare.

Okay, this is the end of this article. I will organize and upload the next article as soon as possible. I have been busy recently. Generally speaking, Patch Feitu is a very easy to raise fairy cup breed. You just need to slow down your impatient state of mind and keep up with its growth pace, so that you can understand it more deeply and create a good ecological environment for it. Don't treat it because it is valuable. It doesn't need it. It grows on the tip of the wind and waves, and it is exposed to the hot sun every day and sweeps through the wind. A strong man who survives the bite of a swarm of insects. They are weeds, not your pets. They are expensive just because they grow slowly and it is not difficult to raise ok.

Personally, I think that if you have sacrificed a lot of Patch Feitu, your first step is to rectify your mindset and thinking, complaining about the climate, complaining about the environment, and being eager for success, all of which you should let go, because these can not solve any problems. Any part of China is not the origin of the thumb, so there are all kinds of problems. Kunming, where I live, is not excluded. In addition, the ways, methods and suggestions I share are not used for copying, but for reference.

In the case of colored eggs, the video live broadcast has already been carried out. I will now make a regular guest appearance on various live broadcast platforms to share the experience of meat planting, and all the content of this article is also available in video. Friends you like can pay attention to it in the future. I still say that everything I share belongs to the conclusion of my countless attempts, not absolute.

Well, I managed to get through the whole night again and finish this article. In the next episode, I can only say that I will do it as soon as possible.

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