How to improve the survival rate of sweet persimmon planting?
How to improve the survival rate of sweet persimmon planting?
1 choose big seedlings and strong seedlings
The persimmon with strong seedlings and developed root system has sufficient nutrient reserve and strong resistance, which not only has a high survival rate of planting, but also sprouts early, branches are long, the ground diameter increases quickly and forms quickly, and generally has a certain economic yield in the third year after planting (figure 1). On the other hand, those slender seedlings and those lacking fine roots generally germinate late, and the branches are short and few. according to our observation, most of the above two kinds of seedlings planted in spring germinate after late May, and the individual germination time is in late July. The length of the branch is less than 6 cm when the leaves fall.
Fig. 1 the result of the third year of big seedling planting garden (location: Gongyi City)
In addition, the selected seedlings should try to ensure the integrity of the root system, there can be no greater damage, because the wound is extremely difficult to heal under the interference of tannins, which will reduce the survival rate.
(2) it is recommended to plant with soil nearby, and it is strictly forbidden to expose the roots for too long.
Because persimmon roots contain tannins, they are exposed in the air for too long, which can easily lead to capillary root browning and death. It is difficult to grow new roots after planting and reduce the survival rate. In order to solve this problem, the author advocates planting in the vicinity of the seedling site, and the survival rate is almost 100% (figure 2). For those who need to purchase seedlings for a long distance, they should be dipped in mud in time after raising the seedlings, protect the roots with bandages (woven bags), and plant them immediately after they arrive at the planting site. Seedlings that can not be planted should be pseudo-planted by burying wet soil deep in the roots, and it is strictly forbidden to sprinkle water on the roots of persimmon trees.
Fig. 2 select high-quality seedlings and transplant them with soil nearby (location: Gongyi City)
3 advocating planting in early autumn and late spring
Because of the particularity of persimmon root activity, the root activity stops early in autumn and starts late in spring. Therefore, persimmon trees should be planted in early autumn and late spring. The author's practice is that when persimmon leaves begin to fall in autumn, the seedlings are planted; the spring planting time is generally the best when the persimmon buds are about to sprout, and if the persimmon buds are enlarged and planted green, the survival rate will be reduced in the dry mountain land [Jishan Huayao].
(4) scientifically irrigating the fixed root water and laying the moisture conservation film.
Because the osmotic pressure of persimmon root is low and the water fixation capacity of newly planted persimmon root is poor, if the soil moisture is not enough, it is very easy to cause persimmon root water loss, so the fixed root water should be irrigated scientifically. The method is: pour water once in time after planting, make up again after 4 or 5 days, fill the seedling to 3 cm below the marriage interface after the water seeps, and then spread a white plastic film 80 cm square under the tree plate, compacting the surrounding area and the neck of the fruit tree with soil to increase temperature and preserve soil moisture (figure 3).
Fig. 3 the tree plate is covered with plastic film and pressed to conserve soil moisture and control grass (location: Xinzheng City)
If it is found that the soil moisture is not enough before germination, it can be irrigated again.
(5) advocate low setting stem, tree trunk wrapped with plastic film or thin film bag.
As the root activity of persimmon is later than that of the aboveground, when spring comes, the aboveground will give priority to activity, and the full buds will expand, and when the underground water supply is not available, it will often lead to "withered buds". Therefore, in order to reduce the loss of nutrients in spring, the author advocates that the secondary plump bud belt below 60 cm should be dried to delay the germination time of the aboveground part, and wrap thin film or film bag on the tree trunk after drying. To reduce the loss of water. Note: the winding monolayer mulch must be close to the tree trunk, especially the bud, in order to germinate later (figure 4).
Fig. 4 the trunk is wound around a single layer of plastic film, which should be close to the bud to facilitate germination (location: Xinzheng City)
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