The pruning method of bonsai and the skill of three cuts and three no-cuts

Pruning is an important means of bonsai production, which is directly related to the speed and taste of bonsai molding. To maintain the posture of a small bonsai, the bonsai must be trimmed. Especially in summer, the plant grows faster because of sufficient temperature, water and nutrients, and the morphology of the plant will be affected if it is not pruned. The varieties with strong germinating ability should be pruned 6 times a year, but some varieties should be pruned to promote multiple sprouting, so that the branches can be shorter and more, in order to maintain their beautiful shape. Varieties that are reserved for ornamental fruit after flowering should leave more short flower branches and long branches generally leave 1 Mel 2 nodes. Cypress and pine plants should not be trimmed with scissors, otherwise the wound will leave spots and should be removed by hand. After falling leaves, the stump of deciduous varieties should be pruned together with drooping branches, overgrown branches, diseased branches, overlapping branches, broken branches and cross branches, so as to make them clear and dense.

Common methods of bonsai pruning:

The first is to pick the heart, in order to inhibit the growth of bonsai trees to promote the development of lateral branches, you can remove its tender branches.

The second is to pick buds. When bonsai trees grow many adventitious buds on their dry base or trunk, they should pick buds at any time so as not to sprout forked branches and affect the beauty of the tree.

Third, to pick leaves, foliage trees bonsai, the viewing period is often the germination of new leaves, such as mechanical trees, pomegranates and other new leaves are red, through leaf removal treatment, trees can make new leaves several times a year, bright and pleasing to the eye, and improve the ornamental effect.

Fourth, pruning, bonsai trees often grow many new branches, in order to maintain its beautiful shape, we must always pay attention to pruning, pruning methods should be determined according to the shape of the tree. Generally, withered branches, parallel branches and cross branches that hinder beauty should be cut off in time.

Fifth, to trim the root, turn the basin when combined with root pruning, the root system is too dense and too long should be pruned, can be considered according to the following circumstances. The new root of the tree is underdeveloped, and the root system is not covered with the bottom of the soil, then turn the basin, but still use the original basin, there is no need to trim the root system. For the tree species with developed root system, if the fibrous root is densely covered with the bottom of the soil block, the larger basin should be replaced, the dense root system should be thinned, the old root should be removed, and a few new roots should be retained to turn the basin.

The bonsai is trimmed three times without cutting.

First, cut late but not early. It is generally believed that it is the best time to prune branches when trees stop growing in winter, and it is emphasized that they should be "cut in winter". This view is not comprehensive enough. To be exact, some tree species can be cut in winter, such as crape myrtle. After short pruning in winter, the branches look dry. When spring comes, new buds will grow on the short branches. But there are two situations that can cause winter shears to fail. First, tree species are not suitable, such as elm, whose branches are easy to lose water once there is a wound, so after winter pruning, its short branches will dry up because of water loss in a long and dry winter. Second, the branches are too thin to be suitable, no matter what kind of trees, winter pruning of branches that are too thin will inevitably cause the branches to die. In fact, "spring scissors" is better than "winter shears". Trees are pruned before sprouting in early spring, when the air temperature is higher, and new buds will sprout in a relatively short time, so there is no danger of branches drying up. Compared with "winter scissors", "spring scissors" does no other harm. Trees that blossom in spring, such as rhododendron and plum blossom, must be later and prune after they stop blooming, otherwise, cutting off the branches will be contrary to one's wishes.

Second, cutting thick but not fine, some people pursue the rapid prototyping of bonsai and can't wait to cut the new branches that have not yet been lignified, hoping to grow lateral branches again that year, and then cut them two or three times a year, so that bonsai can quickly form several levels of branch supports. The author has done this before, but it backfired. First, when the branches of some tree species are not lignified, they can not send lateral branches, but sprout from the cutting place and continue to grow forward, unable to form an angle, such as wolfberry bone. Second, forced pruning will make the work lose power. Ligustrum lucidum, bayberry and other tree species can send lateral branches after twigs are cut. But it is not appropriate to do so. If the branch is cut short into a receptacle, the length of the receptacle must be predetermined. It is assumed that the length of the receptacle will not change much after the work is formed. But if the branches are tender, they will continue to grow faster. In this way, the length of several levels of branch receptacle will greatly exceed the predetermined length, which appears to be out of proportion. The whole tree is slender, thin, and irreparable. Practice has proved that the correct way is to wait for the branches to be lignified and roughly grow to a predetermined thickness before cutting. In this way, the lateral branches are bound to form a better angle. In order to overcome the impatience, the branches intended to be used as supports must be made to grow to a predetermined thickness, generally growing for at least one year, and if not thick enough, do not hesitate to grow for another year.

Third, cut fat but not thin. After the short pruning of the branch, there is no new bud on the receptacle for a long time, and even if it does sprout, the growth of the lateral branch is not exuberant, which is due to lack of fertilizer. It is necessary to promote the rapid growth of strong buds and the rapid growth of new branches. On the premise that the amount of fertilizer does not produce "fertilizer damage", the more the better. In the peak growing season, you can water and fertilize once at intervals. But be careful not to be too strong. In this way, the side branches should keep growing during the growing season when the temperature is suitable.

Finally, it must be stated that "three cuts and three no cuts" is for unformed bonsai. If the bonsai has been stereotyped, pruning is to keep the tree shape, in order to prevent the bonsai from growing up in Nagano.

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